THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


Early  Western  Travels 
1748-1846 


Volume  VIII 


I.  Voyages,  Travels,  and 

Discoveries   of  Tilly   Buttrick,  Jr.   (1812-1819) 

II.  A  Pedestrious  Tour  of 

Four  Thousand  Miles,  through  the  Western  States 
and  Territories,  during  the  Winter  and  Spring  of 
1818.  By  Estwick  Evans 

Edited  with  Notes,  Introduftions,  Index,  etc.,  by 

Reuben  Gold  Thwaites 

Editor  of  "The  Jesuit  Relations  and  Allied  Documents,"  "Wisconsin 

Historical  Collections,"  "Chronicles  of  Border  Warfare," 

"  Hennepin's  New  Discovery,"  etc. 


(Separate  publication  from  "Early  Western  Travels:  1748-1846," 
in  which  series  this  appeared  as  Volume  VIII) 


Cleveland,  Ohio 

The  Arthur  H.  Clark  Company 
1904 


Early  Western  Travels 

1748-1846 

A  Series  of  Annotated  Reprints  of  some  of  the  best 
and  rarest  contemporary  volumes  of  travel,  de- 
scriptive of  the  Aborigines  and  Social  and 
Economic  Conditions  in  the  Middle 
and  Far  West,  during  the  Period 
of  Early  American  Settlement 

Edited  with  Notes,  Introdu&ions,  Index,  etc.,  by 

Reuben  Gold  Thwaites,  LL.D. 

Editor  of  "The  Jesuit  Relations  and  Allied  Documents,"   "Original 

Journals  of  the  Lewis  and  Clark  Expedition,"  "Hennepin's 

New  Discovery,"  etc. 

Volume  VIII 

Buttrick's    Voyages,    1812-1819 
Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour,  1818 


Cleveland,  Ohio 

The  Arthur  H.  Clark  Company 
1904 


COPYRIGHT  1904,  BY 
THE  ARTHUR  H.  CLARK  COMPANY 


ALL  RIGHTS  RESERVED 


fflx  lafcrgftt  9ttM 

R.  K.  DONNBLLHY  *  SONS  COMPANY 
CHICAGO 


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CONTENTS  OF  VOLUME  VIII 

PREFACE.    The  Editor 


VOYAGES,  TRAVELS,  AND  DISCOVERIES.    Tilly  BuUrick,  Jr. 

Author's  Prefatory  Remarks          .         .         .        .  19 

Text .        .      21 

n 

A  PEDESTRIOUS  TOUR,  OF  FOUR  THOUSAND  MILES,  THROUGH 
THE  WESTERN  STATES  AND  TERRITORIES,  during  the 
Winter  and  Spring  of  1818.  Interspersed  with  Brief 
Reflections  upon  a  great  variety  of  Topics:  Religious, 
Moral,  Political,  Sentimental,  &c.,  &c.  Estwick  Evans 

Copyright  Notice,  1818 96 

Copyright  Notice,  1819 98 

Author's  Preface 99 

Text  101 


1195583 


ILLUSTRATIONS  TO  VOLUME  VIII 

Facsimile  of  title-page  to  Buttrick's  Voyages          .        .  17 

Portrait  of  Estwick  Evans  (frontispiece  to  his  book)        .         .       94 
Facsimile  of  title-page  to  Evans's  Tour         ....      95 


PREFACE  TO  VOLUME  VIII 

The  journals  of  the  two  American  travellers  whose 
works  have  been  selected  for  volume  viii  of  our  series, 
form  an  interesting  contrast  and  complement  to  one 
another.  Tilly  Buttrick,  Jr.,  was  by  nature  a  wanderer. 
The  early  pages  of  his  quaint  little  book  give  the  princi- 
pal facts  of  his  biography,  particularly  his  adventures  at 
sea.  It  is  the  narrative  of  one  to  whom  strange  lands  and 
distant  vistas  irresistibly  appeal.  He  tells  his  story  with 
a  straightforward  simplicity  that  transports  the  reader 
through  the  scenes  that  the  author  has  beheld.  The 
wandering  disposition  that  had  first  carried  him  far 
abroad,  induced  Buttrick  to  spend  several  years  roaming 
through  the  Great  West,  and  the  same  quality  of  pictur- 
esque clarity  of  narration  makes  his  journal  useful  to  stu- 
dents of  that  section. 

Reverting  from  the  Far  West  of  the  trans-Mississippi 
and  Oregon  country  —  whither  the  journals  of  the  Astori- 
ans  have  led  us  in  the  three  preceding  volumes  of  our 
series  —  we  find  the  Middle  West  of  the  Michauxs,  Har- 
ris, and  Cuming  passing  into  a  new  stage  of  progress. 
The  tide  of  emigration  flowing  from  the  older  states  down 
the  Ohio  River,  and  spreading  out  into  Ohio  and  Kentucky 
on  either  hand,  was  checked  by  the  second  war  with  Eng- 
land, and  the  ruthless  inroads  of  the  savages  whom  the 
British  encouraged.  In  this  war  the  new  West  bore  its 
full  share;  having  successfully  defended  its  long  frontier, 
it  emerged  triumphant  in  spirit,  but  financially  and  in- 
dustrially exhausted.  Not  until  the  second  great  wave 
of  immigration  began  (1815-18),  at  the  close  of  this  strug- 


i  o  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

gle,  was  the  region  again  blessed  with  prosperity,  and  able 
to  renew  its  checked  development. 

Into  this  changing  West  the  wanderer  Buttrick  came. 
Arrived  at  Buffalo  before  the  declaration  of  war,  he  was 
upon  the  Canadian  side  of  the  Niagara  frontier  when  the 
fateful  news  arrived,  and  for  a  brief  time  was  detained  as  a 
hostage  by  the  British  General  Brock.  When  released,  he 
returned  to  Massachusetts;  but  two  years  later  started  for 
Kentucky  —  passing  west  through  New  York  State,  and 
floating  down  the  Allegheny  and  Ohio  to  Cincinnati.  On 
this  journey  he  gives  us  an  interesting  picture  of  river  life, 
and  its  exigencies;  while  with  graphic  pen  he  portrays  the 
bad  roads,  fever  and  ague,  and  deserted  condition  of  the 
country  through  which  he  returned  to  his  Eastern  home. 

In  1815  began  his  longest  journey  through  the  West. 
He  encountered  at  Olean,  on  the  Allegheny,  a  large  body 
of  Eastern  emigrants  who  were  awaiting  the  opening  of 
navigation  and  the  rise  of  the  Western  rivers.  Swept  rap- 
idly down  on  the  freshet,  Buttrick  landed  in  Kentucky;  but 
having  been  attacked  by  his  old  enemy,  fever  and  ague,  he 
embarked  for  New  Orleans,  thus  enabling  him  to  draw  for 
us  a  brief  but  vivid  picture  of  Mississippi  navigation. 
From  the  Southern  metropolis  Buttrick  started  on  foot  for 
the  North,  over  the  route  known  as  the  Natchez  trail  — 
a  wild  and  lonely  journey  of  a  thousand  miles,  through  the 
land  of  semi-hostile  Indians  and  backwoodsmen  nearly  as 
savage.  Upon  this  hazardous  journey  he  was  "generally 
alone,  always  sick,  often  hungry,  sometimes  nearly 
starved,"  and  beset  by  drunken  Indians;  but  he  struggled 
on,  arriving  in  Cincinnati  after  forty-seven  days  en  route. 

While  the  chief  interest  of  Buttrick's  journal  lies  in  his 
own  adventures,  yet  these  are  in  a  way  typical  of  Western 
conditions,  and  throw  much  light  on  the  hardships  of 
pioneers,  and  the  devastations  of  the  War  of  1812-15. 


1812-1819]  Preface  \  i 

The  book  we  here  reprint  is  very  rare.  Published  as  an 
eleemosynary  appeal  to  readers  on  behalf  of  its  unfortu- 
nate author,  who  had  become  blind  through  his  hard- 
ships, a  small  edition  was  put  forth,  and  no  copies  are  now 
known  to  be  upon  the  market.  Its  reprint  will,  there- 
fore, be  a  welcome  addition  to  the  journals  of  Western 
travellers. 

Estwick  Evans,  whose  Pedestrians  Tour  of  Four  Thou- 
sand Miles,  through  the  Western  States  and  Territories^ 
comprises  the  second  part  of  this  volume,  was,  in  his  way, 
a  philosopher  —  a  man  imbued  with  early  nineteenth-cen- 
tury views  of  the  return  to  nature  and  the  charm  of  savage 
life.  Slipping  the  leash  of  the  restraints  of  civilization, 
and  influenced  by  a  strange  mixture  of  Quixotism  and 
stoicism,  our  author  set  forth  from  his  New  Hampshire 
home  in  the  dead  of  an  extreme  winter,  and  crossed  the 
frozen,  almost  trackless  waste  to  the  frontier  post  of 
Detroit.  His  copyright  notice  contains  the  following  epit- 
ome of  the  journey:  "The  blast  of  the  north  is  on  the 
plain:  the  traveller  shrinks  in  the  midst  of  his  journey." 

Evans  was  born  (1787)  of  good  New  England  ancestry, 
at  Portsmouth,  New  Hampshire.  Largely  self-educated, 
he  was  admitted  to  the  bar  in  1811,  and  won  popularity 
by  espousing  the  cause  of  the  oppressed,  taking  up  cases 
for  sailors,  people  hi  poor  circumstances  —  those  fleeced 
by  self-seeking  lawyers.  A  prominent  colleague  said  of 
him:  "Evans  had  about  as  much  influence  as  any  one, 
because  he  was  a  clever  fellow,  honest,  poor,  and  not  well 
treated,  and  the  people  sympathized  with  him."  He 
volunteered  for  the  War  of  1812-15,  but  was  rejected  on 
account  of  a  physical  disability.  After  his  adventurous 
Western  journey,  he  married  and  settled  in  New  Hamp- 
shire, at  one  time  (1822-24)  serving  in  the  state  legislature. 
His  vein  of  Quixotism  never  left  him;  he  desired  to  fight 


1 2  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

for  South  American  independence,  and  actually  left  for 
Greece  in  order  to  join  her  armies,  but  arrived  after  the 
battle  of  Navarino  and  saw  no  bloodshed.  In  1829  he 
removed  to  Washington,  and  throughout  the  remainder 
of  his  life  practiced  law,  and  served  in  the  government 
offices,  frequently  contributing  to  the  National  Intelli- 
gencer, He  died  in  New  York,  November  20,  I866.1 

Despite  the  eccentricity  of  Evans's  purpose,  and  the 
grotesque  dress  of  buffalo  skins  in  which  he  attired  him- 
self for  his  Western  journey;  despite,  also,  his  constant 
tendency  to  moralize  and  involve  himself  and  the  reader 
in  a  maze  of  speculation,  his  comments  upon  the  men  and 
conditions  which  he  saw  in  the  course  of  his  long  tour  are 
shrewd,  eminently  sane,  and  practical.  The  Western 
New  York  of  1818  is  vividly  portrayed;  the  solitude  of 
Northern  Ohio,  and  the  difficulties  of  the  Sandusky  swamps 
are  made  known;  glimpses  of  the  Indians  of  the  vicinity 
are  afforded.  However,  the  chief  value  of  the  narrative 
commences  when  the  author  reaches  Detroit.  From  that 
place  through  the  remainder  of  the  journey,  to  Presqu' 
Isle,  and  down  the  Allegheny,  Ohio,  and  Mississippi  to 
New  Orleans,  Evans  was  keenly  alert  for  all  manner  of 
information  that  bore  upon  the  war,  the  state  of  agricul- 
ture, the  topography  and  settlement  of  the  country,  and 
the  general  industrial  conditions.  Much  of  his  material 
was  obtained  from  first-hand  participants  and  explorers, 
and  bears  the  stamp  of  accuracy.  He  gives  us  one  of  the 
best  pictures  we  possess  of  early  Michigan  Territory,  the 
French  habitants  contrasted  with  American  settlers,  the 
influence  of  the  fur-trade,  and  the  scattered  posts  hi  this 
far-away  region.  His  description,  also,  of  early  Indiana 
and  Illinois  presents  interesting  phases.  At  New  Orleans 

1  These  biographical  details  are  from  Bell,  Bench  and  Bar  of  New  Hamp- 
shire (Boston,  1894),  p.  343. 


1812-1819]  Preface  1 3 

he  encountered  the  remnants  of  French  civilization, 
whose  picturesque  mingling  with  American  backwoods 
life  presented  startling  contrasts.  "Here  may  be  seen  in 
the  same  crowd  Creoles,  Quadroons,  mulattoes,  Samboes, 
Mustizos,  Indians,  and  Negroes;  and  there  are  other  com- 
binations not  yet  classified. ' '  Evans  viewed  the  dissipa- 
tions, pleasures,  and  excitements  of  the  Southern  metrop- 
olis with  the  eye  of  a  New  England  Puritan,  broadened, 
however,  by  his  contact  with  French  philosophy  and  liber- 
alism. "The  wonderful  wealth  and  physical  force  of  the 
United  States"  makes  a  strong  impression  on  his  mind; 
and  looking  forward  with  the  eye  of  a  prophet,  he  fore- 
sees the  development  which  a  hundred  years  will  bring, 
and  the  power  that  will  make  all  Europe  tremble. 

From  New  Orleans,  Evans  returned  to  New  Hamp- 
shire by  sea,  having  had,  perchance,  his  fill  of  travels  in 
the  wilderness,  and  having  found ' '  amidst  the  solitude  and 
grandeur  of  the  Western  wilds  more  correct  views  of  human 
nature  and  of  the  true  interests  of  man."  His  book  is 
both  diverting  and  informing,  and  fills  its  place  in  the 
chronicles  of  the  early  West. 

Louise  Phelps  Kellogg,  Ph.D.,  Edith  Kathryn  Lyle, 
Ph.D.,  and  Mr.  Archer  Butler  Hulbert  have  assisted  the 
Editor  in  the  annotation  of  this  volume. 

R.G.T. 

MADISON,  Wis.,  September,  1904. 


BUTTRICK'S  VOYAGES,  TRAVELS,  AND  DISCOVERIES 
1812-1819 

Reprint  of  the  original  edition:   Boston,  1831 


VOYAGES, 


TRAVELS  AND  DISCOVERIES 


OF  TILLY  BUTTRICK,  JR. 


Boston: 

PRINTED    FOR    THE   AUTHOB. 

John  Putaam,  Printer. 

1831. 


PREFATORY  REMARKS 

IN  preparing  this  little  work  for  the  press,  the  Editor 
had  not  only  in  view  the  interest  with  which  an  enlight- 
ened people  seize  upon  facts  not  previously  in  their  pos- 
session; but  sympathy  for  this  unfortunate  traveller,  who 
by  misfortune  has  now  not  only  become  bereft  of  his  prop- 
erty, but,  by  providential  circumstances,  of  his  sight,  con- 
tributed to  induce' him  to  copy  it  for  the  press.  And  he 
confidentially  trusts,  if  the  information  contained  in  the 
following  work  is  not  sufficient  to  induce  every  individual 
to  become  a  purchaser,  that  sympathy  for  the  past  and 
present  sufferings  of  a  fellow  creature  will  forbid  them  to 
withhold  the  small  sum  solicited  for  the  pamphlet. 


TRAVELS   AND   DISCOVERIES 

I  WAS  born  in  Westford,  County  of  Middlesex,  and 
Commonwealth  of  Massachusetts,  on  the  sixth  day  of  July, 
1 783.  I  lived  with  my  father,  Tilly  Buttrick,  until  I  was 
ten  years  old ;  when  he  removed  to  Princeton,  in  the  County 
of  Worcester,  where  was  the  summer  seat  and  residence 
of  his  Honor  Lieutenant  Governor  Moses  Gill.  I  was 
put  to  Mr.  Gill,  where  I  lived  in  his  service  five  years,  after 
which  I  went  and  lived  with  my  father,  who  now  lived 
in  Groton,  near  where  I  was  born,  two  years.  At  the  ex- 
piration of  that  time,  being  in  my  seventeenth  year,  I  was 
placed  by  my  father  in  a  mercantile  house,  in  Boston. 
My  master,  D.  Hastings  Esq.,  was  a  respectable  mer- 
chant, and  one  of  the  best  of  men.  With  him  I  resided 
until  I  was  twenty  one  years  of  age.  Being  desirous  of 
seeing  more  of  the  world  than  my  present  situation  allowed, 
I  resolved  to  go  to  sea.  Accordingly  I  shipped  on  board 
the  fine  ship  Alnomak,  of  Boston,  bound  for  the  Isle  of 
France.  Our  crew  consisted  of  seventeen  in  number, 
mounting  eight  guns.  On  the  tenth  of  September,  1804, 
we  weighed  anchor,  and  left  the  harbor  of  Boston,  with  a 
fair  wind,  which  continued  until  the  twelfth,  in  the  after- 
noon; at  which  time  we  were  clear  of  the  land;  the  wind 
then  gradually  decreased,  until  we  were  becalmed,  which 
was  about  six  o'clock  the  same  evening.  We  remained  in 
this  situation  about  one  hour,  and  night  coming  on,  it  was 
noticed  that  the  sea  was  greatly  agitated;  which  is  very 
uncommon  in  a  calm. 

[6]  The  night  was  extremely  dark,  and  the  surfs  that 
broke  about  us  appeared  like  huge  banks  of  snow.  At 


22  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

this  time  many  observations  were  made  by  the  crew,  the 
oldest  sailors  observing  that  we  should  soon  find  out  the 
meaning  of  this  phenomenon.  The  wind  soon  began  to 
breeze  up  ahead,  all  hands  were  called  to  put  the  vessel 
under  close  sail,  and  before  nine  o'clock  it  blew  a  tremen- 
dous gale;  which  obliged  us  to  lay  to,  as  she  was  heavily 
laden.  The  wind  continued  to  blow  for  thirty  six  hours, 
and  the  ship  labored  with  great  difficulty.  The  storm 
then  began  to  abate,  and  coming  about  fair,  we  laid  our 
course  and  proceeded  on  our  voyage.  On  our  way  we 
often  fell  in  with  large  schools  of  fish  of  different  kinds, 
such  as  Porpoise,  Dolphin,  Boneator,  &c.,  and  were  very 
successful  in  taking  them,  which  supplied  us  with  some- 
thing fresh  to  eat.  We  passed  in  sight  of  the  island  of 
Teneriffe  and  many  other  islands,  and  the  coast  of  Bar- 
bary.  In  crossing  the  equator,  we  were  several  days  be- 
calmed. On  the  twenty-second  of  December,  we  arrived 
at  the  cape  of  Good  Hope,  a  Dutch  settlement  in 
the  southern  extremity  of  Africa,  and  came  to 
anchor  in  Table  Bay.  We  found  the  people  here 
very  industrious,  working  their  cattle,  which  are  of 
the  Buffaloe  kind,  by  means  of  a  square  piece  of  wood 
lashed  to  their  horns,  across  the  front  of  their  heads. 
Often  six  or  eight  yoke  of  oxen  were  thus  harnessed 
in  one  team.  They  were  very  handsome  cattle,  except- 
ing the  hump  on  their  shoulders,  so  much  resembling 
the  Buffaloe.  The  meat  of  these  cattle  is  plenty,  but 
not  equally  good  with  our  American  oxen,  being  tough,  of 
a  yellowish  cast,  and  rather  unsavory.  Sheep  are  com- 
mon here,  and  to  appearance  much  larger  than  the  sheep 
in  our  own  country.  This  may  be  owing  partly  to  their 
having  longer  legs  than  our  sheep,  and  consequently  taller. 
Their  meat  is  excellent,  and  perhaps  equals  in  flavor  any 
found  in  North  America,  or  any  other  nation.  But  their 


1812-1819]  Buttrick's  Voyages  23 

wool  is  of  little  value,  being  as  coarse  as  dogs'  hair.  The 
tails  of  these  creatures  are  sold  separate  from  their  bodies, 
and  have  the  appearance  of  a  large  lump  of  tallow  weigh- 
ing from  fourteen  to  twenty  pounds. 

In  the  suburbs  of  the  town,  I  observed  two  of  the  feath- 
ered tribe,  which  I  afterward  learned  were  ostriches;  [7] 
who,  upon  discovering  me,  raised  their  heads  much  higher 
than  my  own,  and  appeared  no  less  frightened  than  my- 
self, and  were  no  less  willing  to  make  good  their  retreat. 

The  25th,  being  Christmas,  our  sailors  undertook  to 
imitate  the  landsmen  in  cheerfulness  and  hilarity;  the 
night  was  spent  in  high  glee.  Next  morning  all  hands 
were  called,  but  not  coming  on  deck  so  soon  as  was  ex- 
pected, the  mates  came  forward  with  handspikes  to  hurry 
them.  They  were  met  by  the  sailors  with  the  same  kind 
of  weapons;  and  although  nothing  very  serious  took 
place,  yet  it  caused  considerable  difficulty  between  the 
officers  and  crew.  The  captain  being  on  shore  was 
soon  notified,  when  a  guard  of  soldiers  were  sent  on 
board;  one  man  was  taken  and  committed  to  prison  on 
shore,  where  he  remained  a  few  days,  and  was  then  put 
on  board  and  sent  to  America.  No  punishment  was 
inflicted  upon  the  remainder,  but  they  were  strictly 
watched. 

Here  we  remained  until  the  first  day  of  January,  1805, 
when  not  being  able  to  dispose  of  our  cargo  as  we  ex- 
pected, we  weighed  anchor  and  put  to  sea.  But  soon  a 
twenty  four  pound  ball,  fired  from  the  guard  ship  lying 
one  hundred  yards  distant,  besprinkling  me  with  water, 
as  I  stood  on  the  bowsprit,  occasioned  us  to  drop  anchor 
and  send  our  pass  on  board  the  guard  ship,  which  our 
captain  omitted  to  do,  though  required  by  the  law  of  the 
place.  This  being  done,  we  immediately  weighed  anchor 
and  stood  out  to  sea. 


24  Early  Western  Trawls  [Vol.8 

The  next  morning  we  had  lost  sight  of  land,  and  in  the 
course  of  the  day,  the  wind  blew  a  terrible  gale;  the  sea 
ran  mountains  high,  the  ship  was  hove  to,  and  we  rode  out 
the  storm,  which  continued  about  twelve  hours.  After 
which  we  continued  our  course  with  the  trade  winds  about 
forty  days.  In  the  mean  time  our  supercargo  fell  sick  and 
in  about  six  weeks  died.  The  usual  ceremonies  at  sea 
were  performed,  and  his  remains  committed  to  a  watery 
grave.  Thinking  ourselves  far  enough  to  windward  of 
the  Island,  to  bear  away,  we  accordingly  did  so,  and  run- 
ning twenty-four  hours  we  discovered  land.  Supposing 
it  to  be  our  intended  port,  we  were  greatly  rejoiced.  But 
when  coming  within  four  miles  of  land,  to  our  great  morti- 
fication we  found  it  to  be  the  island  of  [8]  Madagascar, 
four  hundred  and  eighty  miles  to  the  leeward  of  the  isle 
of  France.  This  was  a  sorrowful  tale  for  us  to  hear,  as 
we  must  have  a  head  wind  and  oftentimes  a  current  in 
our  return.  We  had  become  short  of  water,  and  for  sev- 
eral days  had  been  on  allowance. 

The  grass  on  the  sides  of  the  ship  had  become  one  foot 
in  length,  which  greatly  impeded  our  progress  and  ren- 
dered our  situation  truly  distressing.  The  ship  was  put 
about  and  stood  to  the  south,  as  near  as  we  could  lay  to 
the  wind. 

The  island  of  Madagascar,  is  inhabited  by  negroes, 
with  whom  little  or  no  trade  is  carried  on  by  the  whites. 
We  dared  not  venture  ourselves  on  shore  here,  to  obtain 
water,  for  two  reasons.  First,  we  were  afraid  of  the  rocks 
and  shoals,  as  there  were  no  pilots  to  be  had ;  and  secondly, 
should  we  arrive  safe  on  shore,  we  might  be  massacred  by 
those  uncivilized  people. 

While  ruminating  on  these  unfortunate  circumstances, 
our  ship  was  struck  by  a  white  squall,  very  common  in 
that  eastern  world,  which  carried  away  our  foretop  mast 


1812-1819]  ButtricKs  Voyages  25 

and  maintop  gallant  mast  and  did  much  damage  to  the 
sails  and  rigging.  This  was  probably  fortunate  for  us,  as 
the  masts  must  have  gone,  or  the  ship  upset.  The  squall 
being  over,  it  soon  began  to  rain  very  heavily.  Stopping 
the  scuppers,  all  who  were  able  employed  themselves  hi 
dipping  water  from  the  deck.  We  filled  six  casks  of  a 
hundred  gallons  each,  which  proved  a  very  seasonable  and 
ample  supply.  Every  exertion  was  now  made,  both  by 
the  officers  and  crew,  and  continued  until  the  2oth  of 
March,  when  we  considered  ourselves  far  enough  to  wind- 
ward to  bear  away,  and  next  morning  discovered  land, 
and  found  it  to  be  our  long  wished  for  island;  the  isle  of 
France.  The  harbor  being  on  the  leeward  side,  we  ran 
around,  and  not  finding  it  so  soon  as  we  expected,  we  saw 
several  sail  boats  lying  about,  near  the  shore,  and  hoped 
to  find  a  pilot  among  them.  But  none  appearing  we  fired 
a  gun  as  a  signal.  Unfortunately  the  gun  was  loaded  with 
a  ball,  which  went  close  to  several  of  them.  This  fright- 
ened the  poor  Frenchmen,  and  they  made  for  the  shore 
with  all  possible  speed,  supposing  us  to  be  Englishmen. 
[9]  Within  thirty  minutes  we  discovered  a  large  sail  bear- 
ing towards  us  from  the  harbor.  On  its  approaching  us  to 
our 'Surprise  we  found  it  to  be  a  French  man  of  war,  ready 
for  action;  and  coming  close  too,  and  hailing  us,  they  or- 
dered our  captain  on  board  of  the  ship,  and  took  us  un- 
der their  protection,  and  stood  for  the  harbor.  We  were 
not  insensible  of  the  reason  of  this,  from  the  circumstance 
of  the  above  mentioned  shot,  which  was  fired  from  the  en- 
trance of  this  harbor.  The  head  of  the  harbor,  on  which 
the  town  stands,  is  about  three  miles  from  the  entrance. 
The  channel  being  narrow,  the  only  way  of  getting  up  is 
by  warping,  to  assist  in  which  buoys  are  set  at  a  suitable 
distance;  a  rope  is  made  fast,  the  ship  is  hauled  to  one  and 
then  to  another,  and  so  on  through  the  whole. 


26  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

A  gang  of  negroes  were  placed  on  board  the  vessel,  and 
assisted  in  performing  this  labor,  until  we  arrived  safe  on 
our  mooring  ground.  Our  captain  was  then  conducted 
on  shore,  by  a  guard,  and  after  due  examination,  was 
found  innocent  of  any  ill  design.  We  found  this  harbor 
a  very  pleasant  and  delightful  one;  and  from  seventy  to 
eighty  American  vessels  lying  there.  In  a  few  days  we 
commenced  discharging  our  cargo  and  sending  it  on  shore; 
we  also  stripped  the  ship  to  the  lower  mast;  this  being 
done,  we  were  about  to  repair  the  rigging  and  sails,  when 
the  monsoons  made  their  appearance. 

These  monsoons,  so  called,  are  the  changing  of  the  wind, 
which  blows  in  one  direction  from  March  to  September; 
then,  shifting  and  whiffling  about,  blowing  high  gales,  and 
sometimes  a  hurricane,  commences  a  contrary  direction, 
and  so  continues  the  remainder  of  the  year,  it  being  the 
time  when  the  sun  crosses  the  equator.  Vessels  generally, 
are  afraid  of  being  found  at  sea  in  this  country,  at  this 
season.  The  wind  at  this  time  was  very  variable,  blow- 
ing from  different  points  and  constituting  a  terrible  gale, 
which  lasted  about  forty-eight  hours.  Every  precaution 
was  taken  for  the  safety  of  the  vessels  lying  in  the  harbor; 
by  mooring  them  by  two  anchors  ahead,  and  two  astern, 
according  to  the  requirements  of  the  law;  nevertheless,  the 
shipping  in  the  harbor,  consisting  of  one  hundred  and 
fifty  sail,  French,  Dutch,  Danes,  etc.,  but  mostly  Ameri- 
cans, presented  a  most  unpleasant  [10]  spectacle.  Fifteen 
or  twenty  vessels  of  different  sizes,  were  driven  on  shore, 
and  some  of  them,  when  the  water  fell,  were  nearly  high 
and  dry.  But  few  lives  were  lost;  although  there  was 
a  great  destruction  of  property.  The  inhabitants  of  this 
island  are  very  friendly  to  the  American  people,  and  an 
immense  trade  is  carried  on  between  the  two  countries. 
About  fifty  yards  from  the  shore,  stood  a  spacious  build- 


1812-1819]  Buttrick's  Voyages  27 

ing,  occupied  as  a  hospital,  in  which  was  a  great  number 
of  patients.  Directly  on  the  bank  is  a  small  building, 
which  is  called  a  death  house.  When  any  one  died  in  the 
hospital,  they  were  removed  and  deposited  in  this  small 
house,  when  they  were  placed  in  a  coffin  or  box,  large 
enough  to  contain  two.  If  another  was  expected  to 
die  immediately,  it  remained  until  the  second  was 
placed  in  it ;  then  being  put  into  a  boat  manned  by  three 
negroes,  expressly  for  that  purpose,  it  was  rowed  down 
about  two  miles  and  a  half,  being  that  distance  from 
any  dwelling  house,  when  the  bodies  were  taken  out  of  the 
coffin,  hauled  up  on  shore,  and  thrown  into  a  lime  pit, 
seemingly  formed  by  nature.  The  boat  then  returns  with 
the  coffin,  and  here  ends  the  funeral  ceremonies.  The 
dissolvent  power  of  this  earth,  assisted  by  the  rays  of  the 
sun,  soon  decomposes  and  destroys  these  bodies,  and  the 
remote  distance  from  any  dwelling  houses,  prevents  any 
evil  consequences,  which  might  otherwise  follow  such  a 
mode  of  burial.  This  boat  is  well  known  by  the  black 
flag,  which  it  carries  hoisted,  and  often  passes  three  or 
four  times  in  twenty  four  hours. 

The  labor  in  this  place  is  done  by  slaves,  who  are  kept 
under  close  subjection.  They  are  separated  into  gangs, 
over  each  of  which  is  placed  an  overseer  or  driver.  During 
the  labor  of  the  day,  should  any  of  them  commit  an 
offence,  even  of  the  smallest  nature,  it  is  marked  down  by 
this  driver,  and  communicated  to  the  principal  overseer  at 
evening.  Early  next  morning,  when  called  out  to  their 
usual  labor,  they  are  punished  according  to  the  aggrava- 
tion of  the  offence.  If  small,  they  are  punished  with  a 
rattan,  on  their  naked  backs.  If  guilty  of  an  aggravated 
offence,  they  are  lashed  to  a  post,  and  so  horribly  whipped 
and  mangled  as  at  times  to  leave  the  bones  denuded  of 
their  flesh,  and  in  open  view. 


28  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

[ll]  HORRID  EXECUTION 

Several  times  hearing  the  noise  of  cannon,  and  seeing  a 
red  flag  hoisted,  on  inquiry  I  found  that  one  or  more 
negroes  were  to  be  executed.  One  day  as  this  occurred, 
I  went  on  shore  and  finding  a  number  of  people  passing 
to  a  plain,  back  of  the  town,  I  followed  on,  and  arriving 
at  the  place  of  execution,  saw  a  rope  drawn  round  a 
circle  of  about  three  hundred  feet ;  inside  of  which  stood  a 
platform  about  ten  feet  square,  standing  on  posts  five  feet 
from  the  ground.  On  the  top  of  this  platform  lay  a  com- 
mon plank,  one  end  of  which  was  raised  about  two  feet, 
and  extended  even  with  the  end  of  the  platform.  Here  I 
waited  for  the  space  of  half  an  hour,  when,  hearing  the 
sound  of  music,  and  looking  around,  I  saw  a  company  of 
soldiers  advancing.  In  the  rear  of  them  was  a  cart,  with 
two  young  negroes  in  it,  and  a  Roman  Catholic  priest 
following  after.  They  coming  within  the  circle,  the  com- 
pany formed,  and  the  negroes  were  taken  from  the  cart 
and  conducted  to  the  scaffold.  The  priest  followed  and 
conversed  with  them  a  short  time,  when  a  negro  man 
mounted  the  scaffold,  with  a  broad  axe  in  one  hand  and 
a  rope  in  the  other.  Looking  very  fierce,  he  ordered  one 
to  lay  down  on  the  plank,  with  his  chin  extended  over 
the  end.  After  lashing  him  tight  to  the  plank  with  his 
rope,  he  raised  his  axe  and  with  one  stroke,  severed  his 
head  from  his  body.  Then  unfastening  the  body  he 
threw  it  down  where  the  head  had  fallen. 

The  other  poor  fellow,  terrified  and  trembling  at  this  aw- 
ful sight,  and  scarcely  able  to  stand,  was  soon  ordered  to 
lie  down  in  the  same  manner  of  the  former,  which  he  very 
reluctantly  did,  the  plank  being  already  covered  with  the 
blood  of  his  fellow  victim.  The  rope  was  then  thrown 
around  him,  as  before  mentioned;  the  axe  was  again 
raised  by  this  infernal  butcher,  with  an  apparent  gratifica- 


1812-1819]  Buttrick's  Voyages  29 

tion  and  hardihood,  shocking  to  human  nature,  and  seem- 
ing to  glut  his  revenge  for  the  reluctance  with  which  the 
criminal  laid  himself  down  on  the  plank.  After  several 
blows  he  at  last  succeeded  in  severing  his  head  from  his 
body. 

To  paint  this  horrible  scene  in  its  true  colors,  the  wild 
despair  of  the  criminals,  before  their  execution,  and 
agony  [12]  afterwards,  indicated  by  the  thousand  chan- 
ging motions  of  the  face,  andthe^shootingoutof  the  tongue, 
is  beyond  the  power  of  language  to  describe;  their  only 
crime  was  taking  four  dollars  from  a  slave,  sent  by  his 
master  to  some  other  person. 

In  about  three  weeks  after  our  arrival  in  this  place, 
there  appeared  off  this  island,  five  English  men  of  war, 
which  had  left  here  about  six  'weeks  before,  for  fear  of 
the  former  gale.  This  squadron  was  for  the  purpose  of 
blockading  the  island,  and  remained  during  our  stay  at 
this  place.  They  were  very  diligent  on  their  stations,  but 
effected  but  little;  they  would  often  appear  close  in  to  the 
mouth  of  the  harbor,  but  I  never  knew  them  fall  in  with  an 
enemy.  The  war  still  existed  between  France  and  Great 
Britain,  and  several  vessels  and  privateers  were  fitted  out 
of  this  port,  and  would  often  send  in  valuable  prizes; 
large  ships  laden  with  India  and  China  goods,  would  be 
sent  in  unmolested,  which  was  surprising  to  all  who  saw 
it.  At  one  time  an  English  sloop  of  war  appeared  in  the 
mouth  of  the  harbor;  spying  a  twenty  four  pound  gun 
about  three  fourths  of  a  mile  on  shore,  manned  by  five 
soldiers,  they  tried  their  skill  by  firing  an  eighteen  pound 
shot  at  them,  which  hit  the  carriage,  upset  the  gun  and 
killed  two  of  the  men.  The  other  three  men  fearing  a 
second  compliment,  took  to  flight  and  made  all  possible 
speed  for  the  town,  where  they  arrived  in  great  confusion. 
We  now  began  to  think  it  time  for  a  cargo  to  come  on 


30  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

board  the  Almonak.  But  soon  found  it  to  consist  only 
of  stone  to  ballast  the  ship.  Being  soon  in  readiness,  on 
the  first  of  August  we  put  to  sea,  leaving  this  port  for  the 
island  of  Sumatra. 

On  our  passage  we  were  several  times  boarded  by 
English  men  of  war  ships,  and  after  a  strict  examination 
were  permitted  to  pass.  We  passed  close  to  the  island  of 
Ceylon,  an  English  island,  and  saw  colors  hoisted,  but 
made  no  stop.  On  the  first  of  September,  we  arrived  on 
the  western  coast  of  Sumatra.  As  there  were  no  regular 
maps  or  charts  of  this  coast,  we  could  only  traverse  it  by 
information  derived  from  masters  of  vessels,  which  had 
traded  there,  and  our  own  judgment.  There  are  many 
reefs  and  rocks,  which  extend  into  the  sea  a  considerable 
distance.  Many  of  which  lay  but  just  below  the  surface 
[13]  of  the  water.  It  was  therefore  found  necessary  to 
keep  a  good  look  out,  one  man  at  mast  head  and  others 
closely  watching  below.  We  at  last  discovered  a  small 
bay,  and  run  into  it ;  the  place  was  called  Moco.  This  is 
one  of  the  trading  places.  There  are  several  others,  such 
as  Soosoo,  Mecca,  Bencooban,  and  Pecung.  At  the  latter 
place,  there  was  formerly  a  company  of  Dutch,  who  set- 
tled there  for  the  purpose  of  trading  with  the  natives. 
But  in  consequence  of  the  English  cruisers  on  the  one  side, 
and  fear  of  the  natives  on  the  other,  they  had  evacuated 
the  place  and  returned  to  Batavia,  from  whence  they  came 
hither.  We  came  to  anchor  in  our  first  mentioned  port, 
and  prepared  against  any  attack  which  might  be  made  by 
these  savages,  by  tricing  up  a  boarding-netting  round  the 
ship,  about  fifteen  feet  above  the  deck.  This  netting  was 
made  of  line,  about  the  size  of  a  cod  line,  and  wove  to- 
gether like  a  seine  for  taking  fish;  our  guns  were  loaded 
and  primed,  with  matches  burning  by  the  side,  boarding 
pikes,  muskets  and  cutlasses  at  hand,  and  a  centinel  walk- 


1812-1819]  Buttrick's  Voyages  31 

ing  the  deck.  A  gun  was  fired  at  sunrise  and  the  colors 
hoisted;  another  at  sunset  when  the  colors  were  taken 
down.  We  had  not  been  long  at  this  place,  before  we 
were  visited  by  several  boats  from  the  shore.  They  were 
ordered  to  haul  close  alongside  of  the  ship;  a  gun  was 
pointed  into  their  boats,  and  a  man  to  each  gun  with  a 
lighted  match  in  his  hand.  Should  they  attempt  to  rise 
we  were  in  readiness  to  receive  them,  and  soon  put  a  stop 
to  their  proceedings. 

They  then  asked  permission  to  come  on  board ;  this  was 
granted  to  three  or  four  of  them.  A  gun  was  then  hauled 
back,  and  they  allowed  to  crawl  in  at  the  port  hole,  while 
the  rest  remained  as  they  were.  Some  of  them  spoke 
good  English,  and  began  to  inquire  if  we  wanted  pepper. 
We  answered,  yes.  The  captain  agreed  with  them  about 
the  price,  and  in  a  few  days  we  were  furnished  with  about 
fifteen  tons.  The  natives  brought  the  pepper  in  their 
own  boats,  and  it  was  weighed  on  board  of  the  ship,  with 
our  weights  and  scales,  which  we  brought  for  that  pur- 
pose. They  were  very  particular  in  examining  them,  and 
fearful  of  being  defrauded. 

One  man,  whom  we  supposed  was  their  clerk,  took  the 
weight  of  each  draft,  and  at  the  close  footed  it  up,  and  [14] 
cast  the  amount  in  dollars,  as  quick  and  as  well  as  though 
he  had  been  a  regular  bred  merchant.  They  write  fast, 
but  from  right  to  left.  While  here  the  captain  was  invited 
on  shore,  and  went  in  a  boat  with  four  men ;  each  armed 
with  a  cutlass.  Three  were  left  to  guard  the  boat.  Tak- 
ing me  with  him  we  proceeded  towards  the  village,  which 
is  about  half  a  mile  from  shore,  escorted  by  some  of  the 
chiefs  through  a  narrow  path,  and  thick  wood  of  Bamboo 
and  Cocoa  nut.  On  our  way,  we  could  often  see  the 
heads  of  the  inhabitants  peeping  from  behind  the  trees, 
or  through  the  bushes,  but  would  often  start  and  run 


32  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

when  we  approached  them.  On  coming  to  the  village 
we  found  a  cluster  of  small  houses,  situated  but  a  little 
distance  from  each  other,  standing  on  six  or  eight  posts, 
and  about  three  feet  from  the  ground,  being  built  similar 
to  log  houses  in  America.  The  tops  of  these  houses  were 
covered  with  bark  and  leaves,  and  were  sufficiently  tight  to 
prevent  the  water  from  penetrating  through  them.  I 
learned  that  there  were  about  four  hundred  inhabitants 
in  this  village. 

There  were  many  men  and  boys  to  be  seen  about  among 
these  huts;  but  not  one  female.  They  show  few  marks  of 
industry,  a  few  only  being  employed  in  making  sails  for 
boats,  from  a  kind  of  bark,  which  they  work  together 
very  ingeniously.  I  saw  no  implement  of  husbandry,  nor 
any  household  furniture,  excepting  a  few  kettles,  standing 
about  the  doors  of  their  log  huts.  These  people  are  of  a 
copper  color,  small  in  size,  seldom  weighing  more  than 
one  hundred  pounds;  their  food  consists  principally  of 
fruit,  rice  and  fish.  They  are  indolent,  but  subtle  and 
full  of  intrigue;  they  speak  a  Malay  dialect,  and  are  by 
persuasion  Mahometans.  They  consider  it  their  duty  to 
take  the  life  of  a  Christian;  they  are  very  avaricious,  and 
seek  every  opportunity  of  obtaining  money;  Spanish  dol- 
lars is  the  only  coin  they  will  receive,  and  which  they  ob- 
tain in  large  sums  for  their  pepper,  which  grows  in  great 
abundance  on  this  island.  It  is  difficult  to  know  what 
they  do  with  their  silver,  as  their  expenditures  must  be 
small,  their  clothing  generally  consisting  of  a  small  cloth 
round  their  waist,  extending  down  to  their  knees.  Some 
of  the  higher  order  wear  a  mantle  over  their  shoulders 
extending  nearly  [15]  to  their  feet,  with  a  small  piece  of 
cloth  neatly  worked,  covering  the  top  part  of  the  head;  a 
belt  around  their  waist  with  a  long  knife  or  creese  in  it, 
the  blade  of  which  is  very  ordinary,  but  sharp;  the  handle 


1812-1819]  Buttrictfs  Voyages  33 

is  generally  made  of  silver,  but  sometimes  of  gold  and 
worked  in  a  curious  manner;  these  except  the  handles  are 
purchased  of  foreigners.  Opium,  although  prohibited,  is 
obtained  and  used  to  excess  by  the  natives  in  this  island. 
They  chew  and  smoke  it  frequently  to  intoxication,  and 
substitute  it  for  ardent  spirit,  which  they  make  no  use  of. 
Instead  of  tobacco  they  have  a  kind  of  reddish  weed, 
which  they  mix  up  with  something  resembling  white  paint, 
stirring  it  with  their  thumb  and  finger,  and  crowding  it 
into  their  mouths  in  the  most  disgusting  manner.  They 
have  no  fire  arms,  not  knowing  the  use  of  powder;  but  are 
very  expert  with  their  knives.  When  meeting  each  other, 
instead  of  shaking  hands  in  the  American  way,  they 
salute  each  other  by  striking  their  knives  together.  They 
are  in  separate  tribes;  each  is  governed  by  a  rajah  or 
king,  whose  commands  are  implicitly  obeyed.  At  the  sale 
or  purchase  of  any  goods,  he  must  first  be  consulted,  and 
permission  granted,  and  a  certain  part  of  all  monies  re- 
ceived are  paid  to  him.  Polygamy  is  allowed;  the  num- 
ber of  wives  a  man  has,  depends  on  his  ability  to  main- 
tain them.  They  are  considered  as  personal  property, 
and  are  bought  and  sold  at  pleasure.1 

After  purchasing  all  the  pepper  that  could  be  procured 
in  this  place,  we  weighed  anchor  and  stood  along  the 
coast,  about  thirty  miles.  When  about  one  mile  off  land, 
we  espied  a  number  of  natives  on  shore,  and  let  go  anchor. 
They  coming  out  in  boats,  we  treated  them  in  the  same 
manner  as  we  had  done  those  before  mentioned.  The 
reason  of  our  using  so  much  precaution,  was,  information 
that  several  vessels  had  been  taken  by  the  natives  and 
their  crews  massacred.  Finding  no  pepper  at  this  place, 

1  This  description  of  the  natives  is  given  as  they  were  found  in  1805.  How 
far  they  have  since  become  conformed  to  civilized  life,  the  author  is  unable  to 
say. —  BUTTRICK. 


34  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

and  being  told  that  by  going  about  twenty-five  miles 
further  up  we  could  procure  a  plentiful  supply,  we  weighed 
anchor  and  proceeded  j;o  the  place  pointed  out  by  the 
natives.  When  we  arrived  we  found  that  information 
[16]  had  been  given,  and  preparations  made  for  procur- 
ing all  the  pepper  that  could  be  obtained.  Loaded  boats 
came  out,  which  we  received  for  several  days;  the  pepper 
was  weighed  off  and  paid  for  to  the  owners  and  all  things 
appeared  to  go  on  well.  This  looked  encouraging,  and  we 
expected  soon  to  have  a  full  cargo,  they  repeatedly  say- 
ing we  should  have  greater  quantities  by  waiting  a  short 
time  longer.  We  knew  not  their  object  at  the  time,  but 
afterwards  had  reason  to  suspect  their  intentions.  How- 
ever, after  waiting  several  days  and  receiving  no  more 
supplies,  we  passed  up  thirty  or  forty  miles  further.  Here 
it  appearing  like  a  favorable  place,  we  dropped  anchor 
about  five  o'clock  in  the  evening,  two  miles  from  the 
shore.  It  was  calm,  and  the  evening  was  pleasant.  About 
eleven  o'clock  at  night,  we  heard  the  oars  of  several  boats 
coming.  By  the  light  of  the  moon  we  soon  discovered 
them  to  be  three  in  number,  one  with  about  twenty-five 
men  and  the  others  with  about  fifteen  men  each.  I  be- 
ing on  deck,  notified  the  captain  below,  who  immediately 
came  up  and  hailed  them;  they  answered  and  asked  if 
we  wanted  pepper;  our  answer  was  yes.  Coming  along 
side,  they  were  placed  as  before  mentioned.  All  appeared 
very  desirous  of  coming  on  board,  but  only  three  were 
permitted.  As  they  came  in  at  the  port  hole,  we  took 
from  each  his  creese  or  knife.  This  appeared  not  to 
please  them.  At  this  time  they  were  uncommonly  merry, 
looking  earnestly  about  on  every  thing  on  deck,  which 
could  be  plainly  discerned  from  the  light  of  the  moon. 
The  captain  says  to  them,  how  much  pepper  have  you  ? 


1812-1819]  ButtricKs  Voyages  35 

they  answered,  we  have  none  here  but  will  bring  you  some 
bye  and  bye. 

One  of  them  walking  down  into  the  cabin,  the  captain 
ordered  me  to  follow  him.  The  second  mate  lay  in  his 
berth  asleep ;  he  looked  at  him  very  earnestly  and  laughed ; 
there  were  two  lamps  burning  on  the  table,  he  took  one 
and  blew  it  out,  then  looking  at  the  mate  again  he  laughed ; 
lit  the  lamp,  sat  it  down.  He  soon  blew  it  out  the  second 
time ;  mistrusting  his  objects,  I  seized  him  by  the  shoulder 
and  soon  had  him  on  deck,  and  notified  the  captain,  when 
all  hands  were  immediately  called.  The  natives  in  the 
boat  appeared  very  uneasy,  some  standing  upright,  others 
were  puking  over  the  side;  this  [17]  was  enough  to  tell  us 
that  they  were  intoxicated  from  the  too  free  use  of  opium. 
As  they  had  no  pepper,  and  coming  in  such  a  number, 
their  intention  undoubtedly  was  to  take  the  ship,  and 
after  massacreing  the  crew  to  plunder  her.  But  seeing 
us  so  well  guarded,  they  thought  it  not  best  to  make  an 
attack,  although  they  were  three  times  our  number. 

The  captain  then  ordered  these  three  to  go  immediately 
into  their  boats,  with  orders  to  steer  straight  from  the 
ship's  side  and  not  to  vary  either  to  the  right  or  left,  for 
should  they  disobey,  they  would  receive  the  contents  of  our 
guns  among  their  boats.  They  obeyed,  although  with 
great  reluctance,  which  to  us  was  a  certain  proof  of  their 
ill  intentions. 

Although  these  men  are  small  in  stature,  and  possess 
but  little  muscular  strength,  yet  when  intoxicated  they  are 
savage,  cruel  and  fearless  as  mad  dogs.  The  next  morn- 
ing we  stood  along  the  shore  for  several  miles,  and  were 
met  by  some  Indian  canoes.  We  then  came  to  anchor, 
went  on  shore  and  purchased  a  large  quantity  of  pepper, 
which  was  brought  on  board,  weighed  and  paid  for.  We 


36  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

remained  here  several  days,  during  which  time  some  of 
our  crew  saw  and  recognized  some  of  the  same  persons 
who  made  us  the  evening  visit  which  I  have  already  men- 
tioned. They  discovered  no  hostile  intentions  at  this  time. 
We  continued  along  the  coast,  stopping  at  different  places, 
until  we  had  about  completed  our  cargo,  without  any 
damage  except  the  loss  of  two  anchors,  and  narrowly 
escaping  the  rocks,  which  came  nearly  to  the  top  of  the 
water.  We  were  fortunate  enough  to  procure  another 
anchor  of  a  ship,  which  had  just  arrived  on  the  coast.  A 
few  days  before  we  left  the  island,  we  fell  in  with  an 
English  brig,  which  came  there  for  the  purpose  of  trading 
with  the  natives,  but  unarmed.  He  came  to  anchor  near 
us,  and  observed  that  he  wished  to  lie  under  the  cover  of 
our  guns,  while  we  remained  here,  observing  that  the  day 
before,  he  saw  a  sail  standing  in,  having  the  appearance 
of  a  French  privateer,  and  should  that  be  the  case,  he 
should  probably  fall  into  their  hands,  and  lose  his  all,  as 
this  vessel  and  cargo  was  all  the  property  which  he  pos- 
sessed. 

[18]  He  also  told  the  captain  of  the  Almonak,  that  he 
had  a  number  of  curiosities  on  board,  which  he  would 
present  to  him  for  his  acceptance;  among  which  was  a 
creature  called  the  ourang-outang;  he  was  taken  at  the 
island  of  Borneo,  and  is  a  great  curiosity,  even  in  India. 
When  walking  upright,  this  creature  was  about  four  feet 
high,  his  head  resembling  that  of  a  young  negro  child. 
This  creature  moved  with  ease,  was  good  natured  to  white 
people,  would  often  put  his  arm  around  the  sailors'  necks 
and  walk  fore  and  aft  the  deck  with  them;  but  towards 
negroes  he  appeared  to  have  an  inveterate  hatred.  Our 
cook  was  a  large  black  fellow,  and  when  employed  in  any 
particular  business,  especially  that  of  stooping,  this  crea- 
ture would  come  behind  him  and  clinch  and  bite  him 


1812-1819]  ButtricKs  Voyages  37 

most  severely;  and  in  a  very  few  minutes  would  be  at  the 
top-mast  head,  looking  down  and  seemingly  laughing,  as 
though  he  had  gained  some  important  victory;  while  the 
poor  cook  was  left  to  rub  his  wounds  without  being  able 
to  obtain  any  further  satisfaction.  The  English  brig  be- 
ing manned  by  Lascar  sailors,  which  are  black,  the  cap- 
tain said  that  in  a  gale  of  wind  he  always  felt  himself  un- 
safe to  send  them  aloft  in  the  night,  as  the  ourang-outang 
would  often  follow  them,  and  take  every  advantage  to 
bite  and  harass  them.  We  kept  this  creature  till  we  had 
been  at  sea  about  fifteen  days  on  our  home-bound  passage, 
and  were  in  hopes  of  presenting  one  of  the  greatest  curi- 
osities ever  seen  in  America.  But  to  our  grief  one  morn- 
ing he  came  from  aloft  on  deck,  made  some  signs  of  sick- 
ness, laid  down  and  died  instantly.  An  unfortunate 
Dutch  sailor,  who  twenty-five  years  before  had  been  im- 
pressed into  the  English  service,  had  lately  made  his 
escape  and  got  on  board  the  brig  I  have  mentioned. 
Wishing  to  return  to  Holland,  his  native  country,  we  took 
him  on  board  our  ship,  and,  although  many  times  boarded 
by  English  men  of  war  and  strictly  searched,  he  secreted 
himself  so  closely  that  he  remained  undiscovered  until  we 
conveyed  him  safely  on  board  one  of  his  own  country 
ships.  The  poor  fellow  often  said,  ' '  I  am  afraid  I  shall 
find  none  of  my  relations  or  friends  left,  after  so  long  an 
absence. ' ' 

We  now  took  leave  of  our  English  friends,  and  com- 
pleting our  cargo,  on  the  last  of  October,  after  a  stay  of 
[19]  two  months  on  this  coast,  we  weighed  anchor  and 
stood  out  to  sea,  bound  to  the  Isle  of  France,  where  we 
arrived  on  the  first  of  December.  Remaining  there  three 
weeks,  we  again  put  to  sea,  and  in  fifteen  days  came  in 
sight  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  Falling  about  ten  miles 
to  the  leeward,  we  bore  up  with  a  fair  and  brisk  wind,  just 


38  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

passing  round  the  point  of  the  Cape,  when  it  became  an 
entire  calm.  This  was  worse  than  a  gale;  the  sea  running 
very  high,  the  ship  rolled  from  side  to  side,  and  oftentimes 
would  almost  roll  her  yards  into  the  water.  Oftentimes 
we  thought  she  would  upset  or  her  mast  go  overboard. 
After  remaining  in  this  situation  about  two  hours,  a  breeze 
sprung  up  which  enabled  us  to  pursue  our  course,  and 
which  continued  until  we  arrived  near  the  coast  of  the 
United  States  of  America.  One  afternoon,  about  four 
o'clock,  saw  a  schooner  ahead;  coming  near  to  her,  she 
lowered  all  sail.  We  hailed  her,  and  asked  if  any  thing 
was  wanted;  and  were  answered,  as  we  thought,  no.  We 
hailed  the  second  time,  and  received  the  same  answer; 
understanding  that  they  wanted  nothing.  One  of  the 
crew  thought  she  said  differently,  when,  on  a  third  in- 
quiry, found  they  were  an  American  vessel,  had  neither 
bread,  meat,  or  lights,  and  were  in  a  state  of  complete 
starvation.  Several  of  them  had  become  so  weak  as  to 
lash  themselves  to  the  rigging  for  safety.  We  supplied 
them  with  all  the  necessaries  we  could  possibly  spare,  be- 
ing short  ourselves,  but  sufficient  as  we  supposed  to  take 
them  to  New  London,  Connecticut,  their  intended  port. 
They  had  been  out  sixty-seven  days  from  the  Spanish 
main,  in  South  America,  and  for  the  five  last  days  had 
nothing  to  eat  except  a  few  crumbs  of  biscuit  which  they 
had  collected  together.  On  the  morning  of  the  day  on 
which  we  expected  to  see  land,  the  weather  being  cloudy, 
about  eight  o'clock,  breakers  were  discovered  a-head,  and 
the  water  striking  high  into  the  air.  Put  the  ship  about, 
and  running  but  a  short  time  the  same  was  seen  still  a-head ; 
the  water  seeming  muddy,  hove  the  lead,  and  found  ten 
fathom  water.  We  ran  this  course  but  a  little  distance 
before  we  found  ourselves  surrounded  with  breakers  on 
all  sides.  The  wind  being  fresh  and  a  heavy  sea,  we  were 


1812-1819]  Buttrick's  Voyages  39 

constantly  throwing  the  lead,  and  found  sometimes  [20] 
twenty  fathom  water,  sometimes  ten;  about  one  o'clock, 
finding  but  five  fathom,  which  is  thirty  feet,  expect- 
ing every  minute  the  ship  would  strike  to  the  bottom, 
the  captain  ordered  axes  to  be  brought,  and  every  man  to 
take  care  of  himself.  Our  boats  being  much  worm-eaten 
could  be  of  no  use  to  us  should  the  ship  strike;  therefore 
the  only  way  would  be  to  cut  away  the  masts.  The  fog 
continuing  there  could  be  no  observation  taken,  and  no 
one  knowing  where  we  were,  nothing  could  be  done  but 
to  direct  our  course  as  well  as  we  could  to  avoid  these 
difficulties.  At  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening  we  found  a 
sufficient  depth  of  water,  and  on  examination  found  it  to 
be  Nantucket  South  shoals;  the  wind  then  being  fair,  in 
the  middle  of  April,  eighteen  hundred  and  six,  we  arrived 
in  the  port  of  Boston. 

I  remained  in  Boston  until  the  middle  of  June  follow- 
ing, when  I  agreed  with  a  gentleman  to  go  to  Liverpool  on 
board  a  new  ship  then  lying  in  Kennebeck  river.  On  my 
arrival  at  that  place,  finding  neither  owner  nor  captain,  and 
the  ship  being  but  partly  laden,  I  waited  for  several  days, 
and  then  shipped  on  board  the  schooner  Decatur,  an  old 
vessel  of  one  hundred  tons  burthen.  She  lay  alongside  of 
the  wharf,  and  so  heavily  laden  with  lumber  as  to  cause 
her  decks  to  be  under  water.  Our  crew  consisted  of  only 
six  in  number;  no  more  could  be  obtained.  The  captain 
offering  us  the  extra  pay  of  one  deficient  hand  to  be 
divided  among  us,  we  accepted,  and  on  the  third  day  of 
July  put  to  sea.  We  immediately  found  we  had  sufficient 
employment ;  only  three  hands  before  the  mast,  one  hand  at 
the  helm,  one  at  the  pump,  and  the  other  not  wanting  for 
employment.  We  soon  began  to  repent  of  our  bargain,  but 
there  was  no  help  for  it.  We  were  bound  for  Montego 
Bay,  north  side  of  the  island  of  Jamaica;  which  passage 


40  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

we  performed  in  forty  days.  We  made  the  islands  of  St. 
Domingo  and  Cuba,  and  were  boarded  by  an  English 
fifty  gun  ship,  Arethusa,  who  sent  their  boat  and  ordered 
the  captain  and  all  hands  on  board,  which  was  done, 
while  they  manned  the  schooner.  After  arriving  on 
board  many  questions  were  asked  us  separately;  where 
we  were  from,  what  our  cargo  consisted  of,  if  we  were  not 
Englishmen,  and  if  we  should  not  like  to  enlist  on  board 
his  [21]  majesty's  ship.  Our  answer  being  in  the  nega- 
tive, wine  was  brought  forward  and  we  were  invited  to 
drink.  This  not  answering  their  wishes,  we  were  ordered 
below,  where  we  remained  until  eight  o'clock  next  morn- 
ing; during  which  time  we  had  neither  wine  nor  food  to 
eat.  We  were  then  called  up  and  returned  on  board  our 
schooner,  their  men  returning  and  leaving  us  at  our  liberty. 
On  examining  our  effects,  found  my  chest  and  trunk 
pillaged  of  most  of  their  contents.  These  articles  were 
not  contraband,  and  could  not  be  taken  by  any  officer, 
but  were  pillaged  by  the  crew.  We  soon  made  the  best 
of  our  way  on  the  passage,  and  arrived  at  Montego  Bay 
after  a  passage  of  forty  days.  We  lay  here  three  weeks, 
in  which  time  we  discharged  our  cargo  and  took  in  another. 
I  had  many  generous  offers  in  this  place  to  take  charge  of 
a  store,  and  tried  every  possible  means  to  get  discharged 
from  the  schooner,  but  to  no  effect ;  the  captain  observing 
that  he  could  discharge  no  man.  We  then  weighed 
anchor,  and  laid  our  course  once  more  for  the  United 
States  of  America.  We  ran  close  by  the  port  of  Havana, 
made  Turks  Island,  and  after  being  out  but  a  few  days, 
found  our  meat  and  bread  in  a  bad  condition;  sometimes 
so  bad  it  could  not  be  considered  safe  to  eat  it.  This 
evil  could  not  be  remedied  through  the  whole  passage; 
this,  together  with  bad  weather,  squalls  and  head  winds, 
seemed  sometimes  as  though  we  should  never  reach  our 


1812-1819]  Euttrick's  Voyages  4; 

native  homes:  however,  in  about  forty  days  we  arrived  in 
Boston  bay.  Within  one  mile  of  Cape  Cod,  about  eight 
o'clock  in  the  evening,  I  was  standing  on  deck,  with  a  fine 
southerly  breeze,  anticipating  the  pleasure  we  should  en- 
joy on  being  in  Boston  the  next  evening,  when  in  an  in- 
stant a  squall  struck  us  a-head,  which  carried  away  our 
foretopmast  and  main  boom,  and  left  our  sails  in  rags. 
Fortunately  no  man  was  hurt,  although  our  captain  was 
saved  from  being  knocked  overboard  by  catching  hold  of 
the  main  rigging.  This  squall  continued  only  for  a 
minute,  when  all  was  calm  again.  The  only  business 
now  was  to  repair,  which  we  so  effectually  did  before  day- 
light as  to  be  able  to  make  sail,  and  soon  arrived  in  Boston 
harbour,  greatly  rejoiced  at  being  able  once  more  to  leave 
old  Neptune,  bad  beef  and  wormy  bread,  and  visit  my 
friends  [22]  on  terra  firma.  I  then  went  to  Concord, 
Massachusetts,  and  made  up  my  mind  to  leave  the  seas 
for  the  present. 

Wishing  to  see  the  Western  country,  I  made  an  arrange- 
ment with  a  gentleman  to  go  to  Detroit,  Michigan  Terri- 
tory, and  to  take  out  his  family,  consisting  of  his  wife, 
three  children  and  a  man-servant ;  which  he  was  desirous 
of  removing  to  that  country.  Himself  having  business, 
went  on  horseback  several  days  before  we  started.  I  pur- 
chased two  horses  and  a  pleasure  wagon,  and  proceeded 
to  Albany 2  in  New  York,  and  passing  through  many  hand- 

1  For  a  description  of  Albany  written  a  few  years  later,  see  Evans's  Tow,  post. 

Buttrick  followed  the  Genesee  Road,  the  well-established  route  to  Lake 
Erie.  In  1794  the  legislature  had  appropriated  money  for  the  construction 
of  a  road  six  rods  wide  from  old  Fort  Schuyler  (Utica)  to  the  Genesee  River 
at  Canawagus  (Avon,  twenty-seven  miles  south  of  Lake  Ontario),  passing  the 
outlets  of  Cayuga,  Seneca,  and  Canandaigua  lakes.  Being  but  little  better  than 
an  Indian  path  in  1797,  lotteries  were  authorized  for  its  improvement.  In 
1799  a  stage  began  to  run  over  the  road,  and  the  following  year  it  was  made 
into  a  turnpike.  A  highway  was  opened  the  same  year  from  the  Genesee 
River  to  Buffalo,  thus  completing  the  connection  between  Albany  and  Lake 
Erie.—  ED. 


42  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

some  villages,  such  as  Utica,  Bloomfield,  Canandaigua,* 
Batavia,  &c.,  came  to  Buffalo,4  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Erie, 
where  we  met  the  gentleman  waiting  to  receive  his  family, 
which  he  was  going  to  put  on  board  of  a  vessel  and  go  up 
the  lake.  But  preferring  myself  to  go  by  land,  I  crossed 
the  Niagara  river  into  Canada;  it  being  but  three  hundred 
miles  to  Detroit  on  that  shore,  while  it  is  four  hundred  on 
the  United  States  shore,  and  a  much  worse  road.  I  went 
to  a  friend's  house,  formerly  from  Concord,  who  lived 
about  nine  miles  from  this  place.  This  friend  wishing  to 
go  on  the  journey  with  me,  we  began  to  make  prepara- 
tions; however,  as  I  was  a  stranger  in  that  country,  he 


5  Old  Fort  Schuyler  was  erected  upon  the  present  site  of  Utica  during  the 
French  and  Indian  War  (1758),  for  the  defense  of  the  frontier,  but  was  not 
maintained  after  the  Treaty  of  Paris.  The  village  was  first  settled  in  1787-88, 
its  importance  dating  from  the  construction  of  the  Genesee  or  State  Road.  It 
obtained  a  city  charter  in  1832. 

The  site  of  Canandaigua,  at  the  foot  of  Canandaigua  Lake,  was  selected 
by  Oliver  Phelps  and  Nathaniel  Gorham  for  the  principal  town  of  their  pur- 
chase; they  and  a  company  of  associates  having  bought  from  Massachusetts 
(1788)  her  pre-emption  rights  to  land  in  New  York  —  namely,  to  all  territory 
west  of  a  line  drawn  through  Seneca  Lake.  The  village  was  surveyed  and 
opened  for  settlement  in  1789,  and  the  following  year  contained  eighteen  fam- 
ilies and  a  hundred  other  persons. 

Bloomfield,  the  location  of  an  old  Seneca  village,  is  nine  miles  northwest 
of  Canandaigua,  and  was  surveyed  and  settled  at  the  same  time,  chiefly  by 
emigrants  from  Sheffield,  Mass. —  ED. 

4  Batavia  bore  the  same  relation  to  the  Holland  Purchase  that  Canandaigua 
bore  to  that  of  Phelps  and  Gorham.  These  proprietors  extinguished  the  Indian 
title  to  their  land  only  as  far,  approximately,  as  the  Genesee  River.  Being 
unable  to  pay  for  the  remainder,  they  returned  it  to  Massachusetts  (March, 
1791),  which,  two  days  later,  resold  it  to  Robert  Morris.  He,  in  turn,  sold  to  a 
company  of  associates  in  Amsterdam  (1793),  and  the  tract  became  known  as 
the  Holland  Purchase.  The  Holland  Company  marked  off  a  village  and  opened 
a  land  office  (October,  1800)  at  Batavia,  in  an  unsettled  wilderness  fifty  miles 
west  of  Canandaigua.  Two  years  later  they  surveyed  and  placed  upon  the 
market  a  second  village,  called  by  them  New  Amsterdam,  and  located  at  the 
mouth  of  Buffalo  Creek.  This  stream  being  well  known  on  the  frontier,  the 
name  was  transferred  to  the  settlement,  and  "New  Amsterdam"  never  came 
into  general  use.  Buffalo  received  a  charter  in  1813.  See  Turner,  History 
0}  the  Holland  Purchase  (Buffalo,  1850). —  ED. 


1812-1819]  Buttrick's  Voyages  43 

wished  me  to  visit  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  thirty-eight  miles 
below.  After  notifying  the  before  mentioned  gentleman, 
we  proceeded  on  and  saw  the  stupendous  work  of  nature, 
which  has  so  often  and  so  accurately  been  described  by 
other  travelers  as  to  need  no  description  from  me. 

After  spending  three  days  in  this  neighbourhood,  we  re- 
turned to  my  friend's  house.  The  vessel  which  was  to 
carry  the  gentleman's  family  was  expecting  to  sail  in  a 
few  days,  and  I  intended  to  start  as  soon.  But  a  day  or 
two  before  we  were  ready  to  proceed,  standing  at  my 
friend's  door,  we  saw  a  gentleman  riding  up  in  great  haste, 
who  informed  us  that  war  had  taken  place  between  the 
United  States  and  Great  Britian.  This  was  sorrowful 
news  indeed  to  me;  and  my  only  remedy  was,  if  possible, 
to  make  my  way  back  into  the  United  States.  Accord- 
ingly I  harnessed  my  horses  to  the  waggon,  and  drove  with 
all  possible  speed  down  to  the  ferry  and  called  for  the 
boat ;  but  judge  of  my  surprise  and  sorrow,  when,  instead 
of  the  ferryman  handling  their  oars,  I  was  accosted  [23] 
by  sentinels  walking  with  their  guns,  who  said  they  had 
strict  orders  to  forbid  any  one  crossing  over.  I  stood 
some  time  looking  to  the  opposite  shore,  which  was  about 
one  mile,  and  could  see  the  same  business  going  on.  I 
then  returned  in  haste;  was  advised  to  take  my  horses  into 
the  woods  and  secrete  them,  which  I  did.  Finding  our- 
selves destitute  of  many  articles  which  we  wanted,  such 
as  tea,  sugar,  tobacco,  &c.,  and  not  being  able  to  procure 
them  on  this  side,  as  there  were  no  stores  on  the  Canada 
side  where  they  were  kept,  we  resolved  to  make  an  ad- 
venture upon  the  other  side.  Accordingly  when  night 
came  on,  we  fitted  out  a  boat  with  four  men  with  oars,  and 
sent  them  to  accomplish  our  object.  They  had  eighteen 
miles  to  cross  the  lake,  which  was  performed  before  day- 
light. The  next  morning,  unperceived  by  any  one  ex- 


44  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

cept  the  storekeeper,  who  was  always  ready  to  supply  the 
wants  of  any  one  when  he  was  sure  of  cash  in  return,  the 
boat  was  hauled  into  the  bushes,  and  the  men  secreted 
during  the  day.  In  the  meantime  the  articles  wanted  were 
put  up  and  at  night  put  on  board,  when  the  boat  was 
shoved  off,  and  they  steered  their  course  directly  back 
again.  Owing  to  the  darkness  of  the  night  they  steered 
too  much  up  the  lake,  and  at  daylight  found  they  were 
about  six  miles  from  shore.  They  pulled  very  hard,  but 
did  not  arrive  until  after  sunrise.  Fearing  they  might  be 
discovered  from  Fort  Erie,5  they  carried  their  goods  up 
into  the  bushes  and  hauled  the  boat  after  them,  when  they 
came  up  to  a  house  a  little  distance  from  their  landing, 
and  went  about  their  daily  employment.  About  two 
hours  afterwards  a  non-commissioned  officer,  whom  we 
found  to  be  a  serjeant,  and  four  men  belonging  to  the 
cavalry,  rode  up  to  the  door,  armed  and  in  British  uni- 
form, and  demanded  if  there  had  been  a  boat  across  the 
lake  to  this  place.  The  answer  was  no.  They  then  dis- 
mounted, and  walking  in,  began  to  search  in  and  about 
the  house,  but  found  nothing.  Observing  their  disap- 
pointment, we  took  pity  on  them,  invited  them  in,  and 
gave  them  some  spirits  to  drink.  The  morning  was 
warm,  and  after  drinking  several  times,  they  concluded 
that  all  was  as  it  should  be,  and  returned  to  their  station. 
I  remained  here  several  days,  and  began  to  grow  quite  dis- 
contented with  my  [24]  present  prospects;  I  therefore  con- 

5  Old  Fort  Erie,  at  the  head  of  Niagara  River,  on  its  western  bank,  was 
built  by  the  English  in  1764.  The  location  proving  unsatisfactory,  a  new  fort 
farther  back  from  the  river  was  begun  in  1805,  and  completed  at  the  outbreak 
of  the  War  of  1812-15.  Tllis  was  captured  by  the  Americans,  July  3,  1814. 
Although  successfully  resisting  the  siege  of  the  British  during  August  follow- 
ing, the  fort  was  blown  up  in  September  and  the  troops  retired  to  Buffalo.  It 
was  never  rebuilt. —  ED. 


1812-1819]  ButtricKs  Voyages  45 

eluded  to  call  on  General  Brock,9  the  Commander-in- 
chief  of  the  Province  of  Upper  Canada,  and  solicit  his  aid. 
His  head -quarters  were  at  Fort  George,7  forty-seven  miles 
below,  near  the  head  of  Lake  Ontario.  The  second  day 
of  July  I  started  with  a  horse  and  gig,  went  to  Chippewa 
and  stayed  over  night.  Next  morning,  wishing  to  know 
my  fate,  I  proceeded  on  till  within  about  one  mile  of  the 
Fort,  when  ascending  a  hill,  I  fell  in  the  rear  of  five  hun- 
dred Indians,  who  were  marching  in  Indian  file,  painted, 
and  in  their  war  dress.  Not  wishing  to  interrupt  them 
at  this  critical  time,  I  moved  slowly  after  them  until  I  had 
an  opportunity  of  passing  them  without  molestation  to 
either  party.  They  walked  with  their  faces  down,  and 
paid  no  attention  to  any  one.  On  coming  on  to  the  plain 
near  the  Fort,  I  discovered  warlike  preparations;  flying 
artillery,  cavalry  and  foot,  not  in  great  numbers,  but  ex- 
ercising and  preparing  for  an  attack.  The  American 
Fort  Niagara,8  and  the  English  Fort  George,  lie  nearly 
opposite,  one  mile  distant  from  each  other,  and  on  the 

6  General  Isaac  Brock,  born  in  Guernsey  in  1760,  entered  the  English  army, 
and  after  serving  in  Jamaica  and  Barbados,  came  to   Canada  in  1802.     He 
was  placed  in  command  at  Fort  Niagara,  and  in  1811  was  appointed  lieuten- 
ant-governor of  Upper  Canada.     Immediately  upon  the  outbreak  of  the  War 
of  1812-15,  he  ordered  an  attack  upon  Mackinac,  and  marched  with  the  main 
body  of  his  troops   to  Detroit,  receiving  Hull's  surrender  in   August,    1812. 
Brock  planned  a  most  efficient  defense  of  Upper  Canada,  but  was  killed  in  the 
American  attack  on  Queenstown  (October,  1812).     Perhaps  no  English  officer 
has  been  more  beloved  by  the  people  of  Upper  Canada;  several  towns  have 
been  named  in  his  honor,  and  a  monument  was  erected  to  him  on  Queenstown 
Heights. —  ED. 

7  When  the  English  withdrew  from   Fort  Niagara,  in  accordance  with  the 
provisions  of  Jay's  Treaty,  they  constructed  this  fort  directly  across  the  river. 
It  was  captured  by  the  Americans  (May  27,  1813),  but  abandoned  at  the  end 
of  the  year.     After  the  War  of  1812-15  i*  was  dismantled  and  allowed  to  fall 
into  decay. —  ED. 

8  For  the  early  history  of  Fort  Niagara,  see  Long's  Voyages,  volume  ii  of 
our  series,  note  19. —  ED. 


46  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

opposite  sides  of  the  Niagara  river;  they  were  each  under 
fearful  apprehensions.  I  rode  up  to  the  General's  house 
and  inquired  for  him,  and  was  conducted  to  the  garden. 
I  walked  up  to  him  and  made  known  my  business,  and 
my  anxious  desire  of  crossing  the  river  with  my  property. 
He  politely  replied,  he  had  no  objection  to  granting  my 
request,  provided  the  officers  of  the  United  States  would 
grant  the  same  indulgence  to  his  Majesty's  subjects;  but 
until  then  he  could  give  me  no  permit.  After  many  ques- 
tions, to  which  he  received  my  answers,  he  said  I  should 
see  him  at  Fort  Erie  the  next  forenoon,  which  I  did,  about 
ten  o'clock.  While  conversing  with  him  this  morning,  a 
cannon  was  discharged  at  Black  Rock,9  two  miles  below, 
which  at  this  time  had  become  fortified  by  the  United 
States;  he  started,  and  said,  "I  must  consider  you  as  a 
prisoner  of  war,  and  unless  you  can  procure  bonds  of 
fifty  thousand  dollars  to  remain  within  this  Province,  you 
must  immediately  be  committed  to  prison."  My  friend 
accidentally  standing  by  at  this  time,  passed  his  word  for 
me,  which  was  sufficient,  and  I  was  set  at  liberty.  The 
cause  of  this  discharge  from  the  cannon,  and  many  others 
which  followed,  was  the  celebration  of  the  fourth  of  July, 
it  being  that  day  of  the  month. 

[25]  I  remained  under  this  bond  seventeen  days,  but 
was  allowed  to  go  where  I  chose  without  molestation. 
Waggons  were  daily  coming  in  from  the  back  woods  loaded 
with  men,  women  and  children,  many  of  whom  were  in  a 
very  distressed  situation;  they  begged  for  permission  to 

*  The  Black  Rock  ferry  across  the  Niagara  River  was  in  existence  as  early 
as  1796,  and  was  much  used  for  transporting  merchandise,  especially  salt.  It 
owed  its  name  to  the  low  black  rock  about  a  hundred  feet  broad,  from  which 
teams  entered  the  ferry.  Passing  into  the  control  of  the  state  in  1802,  the 
ferry  continued  to  run  until  1824,  when  the  harbor  was  destroyed  and  the  black 
rock  blown  up  in  the  construction  of  the  Erie  Canal.  The  village  of  Black 
Rock  was  laid  out  in  1804,  but  grew  very  slowly,  and  in  1853  was  incorporated 
in  the  city  of  Buffalo. —  ED. 


1812-1819]  Buttrictts  Voyages  47 

cross  to  the  United  States,  many  of  whom  were  formerly 
from  there;  but  instead  of  this  request  being  granted,  many 
of  the  men  were  made  soldiers,  and  their  horses  taken 
and  employed  in  the  service  of  government.  Bad  as  this 
may  seem,  yet  it  was  far  preferable  to  remaining  in  the 
woods  among  the  savages,  who  assumed  the  right  of  plun- 
dering whatever  came  in  their  way.  These  people  were 
truly  in  a  bad  situation,  for  they  were  neither  safe  at  home, 
nor  on  the  frontiers,  as  the  soldiers  were  few  and  provis- 
ions scarce.  As  for  my  part,  I  was  allowed  to  go  where 
I  pleased ;  and  oftentimes  fell  in  company  with  the  officers, 
who  treated  me  very  politely.  On  the  seventeenth  day  of 
my  bondage,  while  at  my  lodgings,  I  received  a  line  from 
an  officer,  ordering  me  to  appear  at  Fort  Erie;  which  I 
did.  I  was  then  conducted  two  miles  below,  to  the  ferry, 
where  a  boat  was  prepared,  and  I  was  ordered  to  go  on 
board,  and  soon  arrived  on  the  United  States'  shore. 
When  I  first  received  this  order,  suspecting  what  would 
take  place,  took  my  friend  aside,  told  him  I  knew  that  a 
gentleman  in  Buffalo  had  petitioned  General  Brock  for 
my  release,  and  thought  it  possible  this  would  take 
place,  and  should  I  not  return  that  day,  he  might  be 
assured  that  I  was  at  liberty;  and  that  I  wished  him  at 
night  to  build  a  large  fire  on  the  lake  shore,  and  have  my 
horses  and  carriage  ready  if  I  should  call. 

My  object  now  was  to  get  a  boat  sufficiently  large  to 
carry  two  horses  and  a  waggon.  I  was  told  that  I  could 
obtain  one  by  going  eighteen  miles  up  the  lake.  I  im- 
mediately hired  a  horse,  and  went  to  the  place,  but  found 
the  boat  was  gone  twelve  miles  further  up.  I  passed  on, 
and  when  I  arrived  there,  found  the  boat  had  gone  still 
further  up,  and  was  obliged  to  give  over  the  pursuit. 
This  being  the  only  suitable  boat  in  the  vicinity,  and  not 
being  able  to  obtain  that,  I  began  almost  to  despair  of 


48  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

ever  getting  my  horses  across  to  the  United  States'  shore. 
When  night  came  on,  I  could  plainly  discern  the  light  [26] 
which  my  friend  had  kindled  on  the  opposite  shore;  which 
was  for  a  mark  for  me  to  steer  by,  had  I  found  a  boat; 
and  although  I  was  determined  to  run  every  risk,  and 
venture  all  hazards,  to  cross,  and  get  my  property  on  board ; 
yet  I  was  obliged  to  relinquish  all  hope,  and  had  the  mor- 
tification to  see  all  my  attempts  frustrated.  I  therefore 
returned  back  to  Buffalo,  purchased  a  horse  and  gig,  and 
returned  home  to  Massachusetts. 

I  remained  at  home  till  the  third  of  July,  eighteen  hun- 
dred and  fourteen,  when  a  gentleman,  who  was  going  to 
Kentucky,  wished  me  to  accompany  him.  I  took  a  horse 
and  waggon,  and  we  set  out  on  our  journey;  pursuing  the 
same  route  which  I  formerly  took,  to  Batavia,  in  the  western 
part  of  New  York.  Our  intention  was  to  go  by  land  to 
Cincinnati,  at  the  south-western  part  of  Ohio,  where  we 
should  meet  the  Ohio  river.  But  falling  in  with  a  gentle- 
man who  observed  that  he  was  well  acquainted  with  all  that 
part  of  the  country,  and  who  advised  us  to  steer  southerly 
to  the  head  of  Alleghany  river,  the  distance  being  but 
about  forty-five  miles,  where  we  should  find  a  pleasant 
water  carriage  the  remaining  part  of  our  journey;  we 
agreed  with  him,  and  sold  him  my  waggon  and  harness, 
as  there  was  no  road  for  wheels  a  part  of  this  route,  pur- 
chased provision,  and  packed  all  our  effects  on  to  the 
horse,  and  set  out  on  foot,  driving  our  horse  before  us. 
We  travelled  on  two  days,  seldom  seeing  any  house,  having 
very  bad  roads,  such  as  by  many  people  would  be  con- 
sidered no  road  at  all.  We  stopped  at  night  at  a  log  hut, 
found  the  people  more  friendly  than  intelligent;  inquired 
how  far  we  had  come,  and  were  informed  we  had  trav- 
elled forty  miles,  and  had  forty  miles  further  to  go.  We 
were  greatly  disappointed  and  mortified  at  our  informer's 


1812-1819]  Euttrick's  Voyages  49 

account  of  this  route,  especially  as  provision  was  very 
scarce  both  for  man  and  beast.  However,  the  next  morn- 
ing we  continued  on  our  journey  till  about  twelve  o'clock, 
when  we  stopped  at  a  log  hut.  There  had  been  several 
acres  of  land  cleared,  and  we  noticed  a  very  tall  hemlock- 
tree  at  the  farther  end  of  this  clearing,  and  a  man  chop- 
ping it  down.  It  being  of  an  extraordinary  size,  we 
thought  we  would  go  to  the  root  and  see  it  fall.  The 
man  who  was  chopping  observed,  it  would  be  some  time 
before  it  [2 7]  would  fall;  and  my  friend  walked  away  to 
some  little  distance.  I  remained  a  few  minutes,  and  then 
followed  him.  When  I  had  proceeded  about  half  of  the 
length  of  the  tree  I  heard  a  cracking  noise,  and  looking 
back,  I  saw  the  tree  coming  directly  upon  me.  There 
was  no  chance  of  escaping;  I  therefore  clung  my  arms  to 
me  and  partly  sat  down;  the  tree  fell,  the  body  touching 
my  left  shoulder,  and  a  large  limb  my  right.  I  was  com- 
pletely covered  with  the  limbs  and  leaves,  but  without  the 
slightest  injury.  I  soon  cleared  myself  of  this  uncouth 
situation,  and  looked  on  my  narrow  escape  with  surprise; 
the  other  two  men  stood  motionless  with  fear.  We  soon 
pursued  our  journey;  and  the  next  day,  about  four  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon,  were  overtaken  by  a  boy,  who  observed 
he  was  travelling  our  way  about  one  mile  and  a  half, 
when  he  said  we  should  come  to  a  tavern.  This 
was  joyful  news  to  us,  as  our  provision  was  almost  ex- 
hausted, and  we  had  but  few  chances  of  renewing  it.  The 
clouds  had  been  gathering  fast,  and  there  was  an  appear- 
ance of  rain;  in  a  few  minutes  the  wind  began  to  blow 
violently,  the  limbs  of  trees  were  falling  on  all  sides,  and 
large  trees  were  blown  up  by  the  roots;  we  could  scarcely 
escape  the  danger  of  one,  before  another  presented  itself. 
The  cracking  and  falling  of  the  trees  was  terrible,  not 
only  to  the  hearing,  but  the  sight  also.  I  jumped  from 


50  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

tree  to  tree,  not  knowing  which  way  or  direction  was 
most  safe.  Heavy  thunder,  sharp  lightning,  and  the 
rain  falling  in  torrents,  made  the  scene  doubly  terrible, 
and  seemingly,  nothing  but  death  awaited  us  every  mo- 
ment. This  gale  continued  about  twenty  minutes,  when 
the  wind  ceased,  and  all  was  still.  My  first  object  was  to 
find  my  companions  and  horse,  if  still  alive.  I  had  not 
seen  them  since  the  commencement  of  the  gale.  I  called 
aloud,  sometimes  by  name,  at  other  times  halloo,  but  no 
answer  being  made,  this  gave  me  reason  to  believe  that 
all  was  lost.  After  renewing  my  calls  for  some  time,  I 
heard  a  voice  and  followed  it;  found  it  to  [be]  my  com- 
panion, and  soon  after  the  little  boy  came  up.  Our  next 
search  was  for  the  horse,  which  we  found  about  one  hun- 
dred yards  from  where  we  stood,  standing  still  among  the 
fallen  trees,  stripped  of  every  thing  except  the  bridle  on 
his  head.  We  made  him  fast,  then  [28]  went  in  search  of 
the  baggage,  which  we  found,  at  considerable  distance 
from  him,  almost  buried  in  the  mud.  Placing  it  on  the 
horse's  back  once  more,  we  related  our  danger  to  each 
other,  and  proceeded  on  our  way,  when  we  soon  arrived 
at  the  tavern  which  the  boy  had  mentioned. 

This  tavern  was  an  old  log  building  of  about  twenty  feet 
square,  and  contained  the  landlord,  his  wife,  and  six  chil- 
dren. Here  we  found  some  pork,  a  small  quantity  of 
bread,  and  some  whiskey,  but  no  food  for  our  horse. 
This  was  the  greatest  accommodation  we  had  found  since 
leaving  Batavia.  Finding  a  man  who  was  going  on  to  the 
end  of  our  land  voyage,  about  seven  miles,  we  left  the 
boy,  and  about  one  hour  before  sunset,  we  pursued  our 
course.  The  mud  and  fallen  trees  very  much  retarded  our 
progress;  but  notwithstanding  our  wading  hi  water,  blun- 
dering over  trees  and  stumps,  &c.,  at  ten  o'clock  we 
arrived  at  the  Alleghany  river. 


1812-1819]  Buttrick's  Voyages  51 

The  next  morning  we  met  with  three  soldiers  who  had 
purchased  a  canoe,  and  were  bound  down  the  river;  we 
made  an  arrangement  with  them,  paid  one-half  for  the 
boat,  sold  my  horse,  and  began  to  prepare  for  a  trip  down 
the  river.  We  endeavoured  to  purchase  provision,  but 
could  not  obtain  it  for  money.  Having  a  blanket,  I 
traded  with  a  good  lady  for  a  few  pounds  of  bread  and 
pork.  The  truth  is,  the  land  about  this  place  is  so  poor, 
the  few  inhabitants  who  are  settled  here  have  no  resources 
only  from  the  country,  back  a  considerable  distance;  and 
hence  they  may  be  called  real  speculators  on  travellers, 
who  happen  to  take  this  course  for  the  Ohio  river.  Our 
company,  now  consisting  of  five  in  number,  embarked  on 
board  this  about  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  at 
sunset  we  came  to  a  sandy  beach,  hauled  our  boat  ashore, 
and  concluded  to  remain  here  during  the  night.  We 
built  us  a  fire,  cooked  some  provision,  and  encamped  for 
the  night.  The  weather  being  warm,  we  made  but  little 
provision  against  the  cold ;  about  one  o'clock  I  awoke,  and 
found  myself  very  chilly.  The  rest  being  all  asleep,  I 
got  up,  and  found  I  had  been  lying  hi  water  about  two 
inches  deep.  Mustering  all  hands  we  went  further  up 
on  to  the  shore,  drawing  our  boat  after  us,  built  a  fire,  got 
warm  and  partly  dried  [29]  when  daylight  appeared.  Each 
one  now  taking  a  piece  of  bread  in  one  hand  and  a  piece 
of  pork  in  the  other,  made  a  hearty  breakfast;  after  which 
we  took  to  our  oars  and  continued  on  our  course.  The 
river  being  very  low  at  this  season  of  the  year,  made  the 
navigation  of  our  boat,  although  small,  very  difficult. 
Sometimes,  for  a  long  distance,  we  would  row  in  almost 
still  water,  then  coming  to  rapids,  we  were  urged  on  with 
great  velocity  among  rocks  and  trees,  which  had  lodged 
among  them.  One  of  the  soldiers  being  acquainted  with 
this  river,  rendered  our  situation  much  safer,  as  he  served 


52  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

as  our  conductor;  otherwise  we  should  hardly  have  dared 
to  run  the  venture.  The  log  houses  on  this  river  were 
few  in  number,  and  from  the  poorness  of  the  land,  and 
the  then  existing  war,  the  inhabitants  were  left  destitute 
almost  of  the  necessaries  of  life  for  themselves,  much 
more  so  for  travellers.  Deer,  bears,  and  other  small  game 
being  plenty,  their  principal  dependence  was  on  these  for 
sustenance.  The  fourth  day  of  our  voyage,  in  the  after- 
noon, we  discovered  a  house  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  We 
pulled  ashore,  went  up  and  requested  to  stay  over  night. 
Our  request  was  granted,  and  we  had  plenty  of  venison, 
and  fed  to  our  full  satisfaction.  The  man  observed  he 
had  just  killed  a  fine  buck,  and  was  glad  to  entertain  all 
strangers.  We  remained  here  during  the  night,  leaving 
what  little  provision  we  had  in  a  knapsack  on  board  the 
boat,  which  we  hauled  on  the  bank,  thinking  all  would  be 
secure.  Next  morning  went  down,  and  found  all  safe  ex- 
cept the  provision,  which  had  been  carried  off  in  the  night 
by  some  dogs,  their  footsteps  being  plainly  to  be  seen. 
We  mentioned  this  to  the  man  of  the  house,  who  observed 
he  was  very  sorry  for  our  misfortune,  especially  as  it  must 
be  his  own  dogs,  he  keeping  a  pack  of  hounds.  There 
was  no  remedy  however  for  this  accident;  we  therefore 
made  ourselves  contented,  he  saying  that  he  would  fur- 
nish us  with  every  thing  in  his  power,  which  was  but  little ; 
and  for  this  little  he  was  careful  to  charge  us  an  exorbi- 
tant price.  He  however  entertained  us  with  many  amus- 
ing stories  of  his  great  feats  in  hunting,  particularly  his 
great  success  in  killing  catamounts,  which  are  numerous 
about  the  Alleghany  mountains.  He  led  a  horse  up  to 
the  door,  sounded  a  horn,  [30]  and  immediately  the  beast 
was  surrounded  by  twenty  or  thirty  dogs,  barking,  howl- 
ing, and  jumping  almost  into  the  poor  animal's  mouth, 
which  stood  with  great  patience,  and  seemed  not  to  notice 


1812-1819]  Buttrick's  Voyages  $3 

them.  This,  said  the  man,  is  my  pleasure  and  support, 
and  what  I  would  not  exchange  for  all  the  luxury  of  an 
eastern  city.  Pleased  with  this  history,  we  took  to  our 
oars,  pushed  on,  working  hard  during  the  day,  camping 
on  the  shore  during  the  night,  with  short  provision  till 
the  eighth  day,  when  we  came  within  thirty  miles  of 
Pittsburg.  Being  tired  of  these  waters,  we  sold  our  boat, 
and  proceeded  on  by  land.  Here  we  came  to  a  plentiful 
part  of  the  country,  and  the  next  day  we  arrived  at  Pitts- 
burg,10  at  the  head  of  Ohio  river,  three  hundred  miles 
from  where  we  first  took  water.  We  staid  here  one  day, 
then  parted  with  the  three  soldiers,  and  took  passage  in  a 
keel  boat  bound  down  the  river.  On  board  of  this  boat 
we  had  every  accommodation  we  could  wish.  Forty  of 
the  passengers,  besides  twelve  of  the  boat's  crew,  stopped 
at  Wheeling,  a  pleasant  town  in  Virginia,  and  then  pro- 
ceeded on  to  Marietta,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Muskingum 
river,  and  so  on  to  Cincinnati,  Ohio.  Here  we  went  on 
board  a  flat-bottomed  boat,  and  proceeded  to  Louisville, 
Kentucky,  at  the  falls  of  the  Ohio  river,  seven  hundred 
miles  below  Pittsburg.  I  tarried  at  this  place  several  days, 
then  purchased  me  a  horse,  saddle  and  bridle,  parted  with 
my  old  friend,  who  had  found  his  brother  and  wished  to 
remain,  started  for  the  eastern  States,  passed  through 
Frankfort,  the  seat  of  government  in  Kentucky,  and  came 
on  to  Cincinnati  in  Ohio. 

Here  I  met  three  gentlemen  who  were  travelling  on  to 
the  head  of  the  Alleghany  river;  their  company  was  very 
acceptable  to  me,  as  I  was  a  stranger  through  that  wilder- 
ness country.  The  day  after  we  commenced  our  journey 

10  For  notes  on  the  places  mentioned  in  this  paragraph,  see  A.  Michaux's  Trav- 
els, volume  iii  of  our  series:  Pittsburg,  note  u;  Wheeling,  note  15;  Marietta, 
note  1 6;  Cuming's  Tour,  volume  iv  of  our  series:  Cincinnati,  note  166;  Croghan's 
Journals,  volume  i  of  our  series:  Louisville,  note  106;  F.  A.  Michaux's  Trav- 
els, volume  iii  of  our  series:  Frankfort,  note  39. —  ED. 


54  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

together,  it  began  to  rain,  and  continued  raining  most  of 
the  time  for  ten  days,  which  made  the  roads  extremely 
bad,  and  hard  travelling.  The  soil  being  of  a  clayey 
nature,  in  many  hollows,  which,  in  a  dry  season,  are  per- 
fectly dry,  we  now  found  the  water  quite  deep,  in  strong 
currents,  almost  impassable  for  horses,  and  quite  so  with 
carriages.  Our  feet  were  constantly  wet  during  the  day, 
and  our  horses  frequently  mid-rib  deep  in  water.  [31] 
There  being  but  few  bridges  in  this  quarter,  and  these 
mostly  log  ones,  we  were  frequently  compelled  to  encoun- 
ter these  vallies  or  guzzles,  without  bridges,  full  of  water, 
and  extremely  difficult  to  pass.  In  some  places,  in  low 
grounds,  there  would  be  log-causeways  for  a  considerable 
distance,  which,  at  this  wet  season,  were  very  slippery, 
and  rendered  travelling  doubly  difficult  and  dangerous; 
although  in  a  less  wet  time  they  might  assist  in  keeping 
travellers  out  of  the  mud.  The  accommodations  on  the 
road  for  ourselves  and  horses  were  very  good  until  we 
came  to  the  north  part  of  Pennsylvania.  Here  I  was  at- 
tacked with  fever  and  ague,  and  was  obliged  to  stop  several 
days.  All  the  company,  except  one  man,  left  me,  they 
being  very  anxious  to  arrive  at  their  places  of  destination. 
I  waited  here  until  I  was  a  little  recruited,  and  then  pro- 
ceeded on,  although  very  weak  and  feeble,  both  from  the 
disorder  and  the  medicine  I  had  taken.  The  third  night 
after  our  departure,  we  stopped  at  a  hut,  where  we  found 
provision  for  ourselves  and  food  for  our  horses.  During 
the  night  it  rained  very  hard ;  the  next  morning  we  inquired 
of  our  landlord  the  distance  to  the  next  house,  and  were 
told  it  was  twenty  miles  and  a  very  rough  road,  which 
proved  strictly  true.  We  climbed  over  rocky  mountains, 
often  meeting  with  fallen  trees,  and  no  way  of  getting 
round  them.  My  fellow-traveller  would  get  off  his  horse 
and  assist  me  in  getting  off  mine,  as  I  was  unable  to  dis- 


1812-1819]  Buttrictts  Voyages  55 

mount  alone;  he  would  then  leap  the  horses  over  the  trees, 
and  then  help  me  on  again.  Thus  we  continued  ascend- 
ing and  descending  these  high  hills;  and,  although  we 
started  very  early  in  the  morning,  and  were  diligent  dur- 
ing the  whole  day,  we  did  not  arrive  at  the  above  men- 
tioned house  until  sunset,  and  were  completely  drenched 
in  rain.  We  stopped,  went  into  an  old  cabin,  found  a 
woman  and  a  half  a  dozen  children,  asked  permission  to 
stay,  and  it  was  granted.  There  was  nothing  for  our 
horses  but  a  bunch  of  old  straw  lying  out  of  the  doors; 
the  saddles  were  taken  off,  and  the  horses  tied  to  it,  where 
they  remained  all  night.  We  then  took  off  our  coats  and 
sat  down  to  dry  ourselves;  but  there  was  but  very  little 
difference  between  our  present  situation  and  out  of  doors. 
This  place  we  named  Hobson's  choice,  (that  or  none.) 
We  then  inquired  of  [32]  the  woman  whether  she  could 
furnish  us  with  a  supper.  She  pleasantly  replied  she 
could,  with  such  a  rarity  as  she  had  not  seen  hi  the  house, 
till  that  day,  for  three  months  and  a  half;  it  was  some 
Indian  meal,  which  she  would  make  into  pot-cakes,  and 
which  with  a  little  butter,  some  pickles,  and  a  kind  of  tea, 
which  grew  around  her  cabin,  she  said  was  good  enough 
for  any  gentleman.  These  delicacies  being  ready,  we  sat 
down,  and  I  ate  extremely  hearty,  not  having  eaten  or 
drank  anything  since  sunrise;  it  was  a  delicious  meal. 
The  next  morning  we  partook  of  the  same  fare,  paid  two 
dollars  each,  put  our  saddles  on  to  our  trembling,  half 
starved  horses,  and  bidding  our  hostess  good  bye,  pro- 
ceeded on  our  journey.  On  our  way  we  stopped  at  a 
house  in  an  Indian  village  belonging  to  the  Seneca  tribe,11 
which  was  improved  as  an  inn.  Here  we  found  plenty  of 

11  This  village  was  probably  on  the  Allegheny  reservation  —  one  of  the  ten 
reservations  retained  by  the  Seneca  Indians  when  the  Holland  Company  in 
1797  extinguished  their  title.  It  lay  along  the  Allegheny  River,  extending 
from  the  Pennsylvania  line  northeastward  about  twenty-five  miles. —  ED. 


56  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

good  provisions,  and  food  for  our  horses.  It  was  a  small 
log  house,  very  neat  inside,  and  the  accommodations  supe- 
rior to  any  we  had  found  on  the  road.  They  had  all 
kinds  of  spirits,  and,  from  all  appearance,  made  but  little 
use  of  them  themselves;  a  circumstance  not  characteristic 
of  these  wild  men  of  the  woods.  One  man  introduced 
himself  as  Major  Obee;  his  manners  did  not  appear  like 
the  rest  of  the  Indians,  and  we  understood  the  reason  was, 
he  was  educated  at  Philadelphia.  After  several  days 
more  of  hard  travelling,  we  came  out  on  the  great  western 
turnpike  in  New  York.12  This  was  a  pleasant  sight  to 
us,  and  probably  would  have  been  to  our  poor  animals 
could  they  have  expressed  their  feelings;  for  in  travelling 
among  mud,  rocks  and  stumps,  they  had  scarcely  any 
hair  left  on  their  legs.  I  now  considered  myself  almost 
at  home,  although  three  hundred  miles  from  it.  After 
this  nothing  material  happened  to  me;  I  soon  travelled 
these  three  hundred  miles,  and  safely  arrived  in  Massa- 
chusetts the  beginning  of  October. 

In  my  absence,  I  had  agreed  to  return  again;  accord- 
ingly on  the  third  day  of  February,  1815,  I  set  out,  and 
travelled  nearly  the  same  road  as  before,  to  the  head  of 
the  Alleghany  river;  what  they  call  the  head  of  naviga- 
tion. This  place  is  called  Olean  Point,13  and  was  much 

u  The  Great  Western  Turnpike  was  the  second  road  leading  into  western 
New  York.  Unlike  the  Genesee  Road,  it  was  built  by  private  companies  and  ir> 
several  sections.  The  First  Great  Western  Turnpike  was  built  from  Albany 
to  Cherry  Valley  in  1802.  At  the  time  of  Buttrick's  voyage  it  had  been  ex- 
tended by  the  fourth  Great  Western  Turnpike  Company  as  far  as  Homer,  a 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  Albany.  It  was  later  continued  past  the  head  of 
Cayuga  and  Seneca  lakes,  and  under  the  Lake  Erie  and  Oil  Spring  Turnpike 
Company  was  completed  to  Lake  Erie,  terminating  just  north  of  the  Pennsyl- 
vania boundary  line. —  ED. 

u  A  small  settlement  was  begun  at  Olean  Point  in  1804.  For  some  time 
its  projectors  expected  it  to  become  an  important  place  on  the  route  of  Western 
immigration;  on  one  occasion  two  thousand  people  are  said  to  have  collected 
there,  while  waiting  for  navigation  to  open.  But  with  the  construction  of  the 


1812-1819]  ButtricKs  Voyages  57 

altered  in  appearance  since  my  former  visit  here;  instead 
of  a  few  log  huts  as  before,  there  were  forty  or  [33]  fifty 
shanties,  or  temporary  log  houses-,  built  up,  and  com- 
pletely filled  with  men,  women  and  children,  household 
furniture  thrown  up  in  piles;  and  a  great  number  of 
horses,  waggons,  sleighs,  &c.,  &c.  These  people  were 
emigrants  from  the  eastern  States,  principally  from  the 
State  of  Maine,14  and  bound  to  different  States  down  the 
Ohio  river.  Two  gentlemen  undertook  to  take  a  number 
of  these  people,  and  found  it  to  be  about  twelve  hundred, 
of  all  ages  and  sexes.  They  had  a  large  number  of  flat- 
bottomed  boats  built  for  their  conveyance;  these  were 
boarded  up  at  the  sides,  and  roofs  over  them,  with  chim- 
neys suitable  for  cooking,  and  were  secure  from  the 
weather.  There  were  also  many  rafts  of  boards  and 
shingles,  timber  and  saw  logs,  which  would  find  a  ready 
market  at  different  places  on  the  Ohio  river.  There  are 
many  saw-mills  on  the  streams  above  this  place,  where 
these  articles  are  manufactured  from  the  fine  timber 
which  grows  in  vast  quantities  in  this  vicinity.  The  river 
at  this  time  had  risen  full  bank,  and  I  should  suppose  was 
navigable  for  vessels  of  fifty  tons  burden;  but  was  frozen 
over  to  the  depth  of  ten  or  twelve  inches;  this  was  the 
cause  of  so  many  people  being  assembled  here  at  this 
time,  as  many  of  them  had  been  here  two  months  wait- 
ing an  opportunity  to  descend  the  river.  I  waited  about 
ten  days,  which  brought  it  nearly  to  the  close  of  March. 
On  Saturday  night  sat  up  late,  heard  some  cracking  of 

Erie  Canal,  the  Allegheny  route  to  the  West  was  abandoned  and  Clean  lay 
dormant,  until  the  development  of  the  oil  interests  in  southwestern  New  York 
gave  it  new  life. —  ED. 

14  The  hard  times  following  the  War  of  1812-15  caused  a  great  increase  in 
immigration  from  New  England,  especially  Maine.  The  "Ohio  fever"  be- 
came a  well-known  expression  for  this  desire  to  move  West,  and  in  the  years- 
1815-16  it  deprived  Maine  of  fifteen  thousand  of  her  inhabitants.  See  Cham- 
berlain, Maine:  Her  Place  in  History  (Augusta,  1877). —  ED. 


58  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

the  ice,  several  of  us  observing  that  we  should  soon  be  on 
our  way;  went  to  bed.  Next  morning  at  daylight  found 
the  river  nearly  clear,  and  at  eight  o'clock  it  was  com- 
pletely so.  The  place  now  presented  a  curious  sight ;  the 
men  conveying  their  goods  on  board  the  boats  and  rafts, 
the  women  scolding,  and  children  crying,  some  clothed, 
and  some  half  clothed,  all  in  haste,  rilled  with  anxiety,  as 
if  a  few  minutes  were  lost  their  passage  would  be  lost  also. 
By  ten  o'clock  the  whole  river  for  one  mile  appeared  to 
be  one  solid  body  of  boats  and  rafts.  What,  but  just  be- 
fore, appeared  a  considerable  village,  now  remained  but 
a  few  solitary  huts  with  their  occupants.  Myself  with  the 
adventurers  now  drifted  on  rapidly  with  the  current,  and 
in  six  days  we  were  in  the  Ohio  river,  and  should  have 
been  much  sooner  had  it  been  safe  to  have  run  in  [34] 
the  night.  We  found  this  river  had  risen  in  the  same  pro- 
portion as  the  Alleghany;  and  several  houses  at  which  I 
had  stopped  the  July  before,  and  which  then  stood  thirty 
or  forty  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  were  now  so 
completely  surrounded  with  water  that  we  could  float  up 
to  the  doors;  and  on  my  arrival  at  Cincinnati  I  was  told 
that  the  water  had  risen  sixty  feet  above  low  water  mark. 
Small  boats  would  run  just  below  the  city,  and  come  up 
in  back  water  into  the  streets.  Much  damage  was  done 
in  many  places  by  this  extraordinary  freshet. 

In  this  part  of  the  country  I  remained  for  a  consider- 
able time,  part  of  which  I  spent  in  this  state,  and  part  in 
Kentucky;  but  was  soon  attacked  with  fever  and  ague 
again.  This  complaint  seemed  to  be  quite  attached  to 
me,  and  no  effort  which  I  could  make  was  sufficient  to 
remove  it  while  I  remained  on  the  banks  of  this  river.  I 
imputed  the  severity  of  this  complaint  to  the  heavy  fogs 
which  were  experienced  at  this  place;  and  determined  to 
leave  it,  and  go  either  to  the  North  or  South. 


1812-1819]  Buttrick's  Voyages  59 

Having  concluded  on  the  latter,  I  took  passage  on  board 
a  boat  to  Shipping's  Port,15  just  below  the  Falls  of  the 
Ohio.  Here  I  went  on  board  a  barge  of  eighty  tons 
burthen,  bound  to  New  Orleans.  There  were  but  a  few 
steam  boats  traversing  these  waters  at  this  time,  for  which 
reason  these  large  boats  of  burden  were  built  principally 
for  conveying  merchandize  up  the  river;  although  they 
commonly  went  with  full  freight  of  country  produce  down. 
They  are  built  with  two  masts,  and  sails,  which  are  of 
little  service,  the  stream  being  so  crooked  that  many  times 
the  sails  are  hoisted  with  a  fair  wind,  and  in  running  a  few 
miles  the  bend  will  be  so  great  as  to  bring  the  wind  ahead. 
In  going  down  we  stopped  at  many  places  on  the  Illinois 
and  Tennessee  side.  Getting  into  the  Mississippi  river, 
our  first  stop  at  any  town  was  at  New  Madrid."  We 
made  the  boat  fast  to  the  shore,  and  about  twelve  o'clock 
at  night  was  awaked  by  a  noise  which  appeared  like  a 
cable  drawing  over  the  boat's  side.  I  started  and  went 
on  deck;  found  all  quiet.  My  fear  was  that  the  boat  had 
struck  adrift,  and  was  running  over  a  log;  but  on  inquiry 
found  it  was  an  earthquake.  Next  morning  got  under 
way,  and  the  water  having  become  [35]  low,  the  sawyers 
made  their  appearance  plentifully,  some  several  feet  out 
of  the  water.  These  sawyers  are  large  trees,  washed 
from  the  shore,  which  drift  down  till  the  roots  or  branches, 
reaching  the  bottom,  fasten  into  the  mud  and  become  as 
firm  as  when  standing  in  the  forest.  Should  a  boat  be 
so  unfortunate  as  to  strike  one  of  these,  it  would  in  all 
probability  prove  fatal;  therefore  every  precaution  is  neces- 

18  For  the  early  history  of  Shippingsport,  see  Cuming's  Tour,  volume  iv  of 
our  series,  note  171. —  ED. 

16  A  brief  account  of  New  Madrid  may  be  found  in  Cuming's  Tour,  vol.  iv 
of  our  series,  note  185. 

For  a  description  of  an  earthquake  on  the  Mississippi  River,  see  Brad- 
bury's Travels,  vol.  v  of  our  series,  pp.  204-210. —  ED. 


60  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  & 

sary  to  avoid  them.  We  had  run  but  a  few  days  when 
our  boat  rubbed  on  one  of  these  logs,  which  lay  so  far 
under  water  as  to  escape  our  notice.  Coming  to  the 
rudder,  it  lifted  it  from  its  hinges,  and  took  it  overboard. 
We  immediately  pulled  for  the  shore,  made  fast,  and 
sent  the  boat  in  search  of  it;  luckily  about  one  mile  below 
we  found  it  and  returned.  We  then  proceeded  on,  and 
in  two  days  after  the  same  accident  occurred  again.  Dili- 
gent search  was  made,  but  without  effect.  We  then  went 
on  shore,  cut  down  a  small  tree,  and  made  a  steering  oarr 
about  sixty  feet  long.  The  stern  of  the  boat  was  so  high, 
it  was  with  difficulty  this  could  be  managed.  In  turning 
round  points  of  land,  we  had  many  narrow  escapes.  Our 
usual  custom  was  to  get  to  the  shore  and  make  fast  before 
night.  At  one  time  we  concluded  to  drop  anchor  in  the 
river,  which  we  did;  and  next  morning  attempting  to 
raise  it,  found  it  fast  below.  After  working  till  ten  o'clock, 
found  there  was  no  possibility  of  raising  it,  and  cut  away. 
This  was  unfortunate  for  us,  as  we  had  formerly  occasion 
for  it,  and  more  so  afterwards.  Several  nights  on  this 
trip,  we  made  fast  to  the  shore  near  the  cane  brakes. 
These  grow  here  very  thick,  and  many  miles  in  extent ;  at 
this  season  of  the  year  they  are  dry;  when  setting  fire  to 
them  they  will  crack,  making  a  noise  like  soldiers'  mus- 
ketry; which  caused  great  amusement  for  the  passengers 
and  crew.  We  arrived  at  Natchez,17  Mississippi,  and 
stopped  there  a  part  of  two  days.  Immediately  on  leaving 
the  place,  found  we  had  left  one  man  on  shore.  We 
hailed  a  man  standing  there,  and  requested  him  to  bring 
this  man  on  board,  who  had  just  come  in  sight.  They 
jumped  into  a  boat,  and  when  come  within  two  hundred 
yards  of  us  the  man  fell  overboard,  which  was  the  last 
we  saw  of  him. 

"  For  the  early  history  of  Natchez,  consult  F.  A.  Michaux's  Travels,  vol- 
iii  of  our  series,  note  53. —  ED. 


1812-1819]  Buttrick's  Voyages  61 

[36]  The  river  now  becoming  much  straiter  than  we 
had  found  it  before  for  three  hundred  miles,  made  the 
trip  easier  and  safer,  and  on  the  eighth  day  of  January, 
1817,  we  arrived  at  New  Orleans. 

During  my  stay  I  remained  the  principal  part  of  the 
time  on  board  this  barge.  The  weather  some  part  of  the 
time  was  cool,  and  three  nights  the  ground  froze  quite 
hard.  Oranges  and  other  fruits  froze  on  the  trees.  By 
accounts  from  Natchez  we  learned  that  the  snow  had 
fallen  six  inches  deep;  a  circumstance  never  known  before 
by  the  oldest  person  resident  there. 

The  poor  negroes,  I  was  informed,  suffered  much,  and 
many  of  them  died.  Having  tarried  till  my  business  was 
closed,  I  determined  to  return  by  land;  and  finding  a 
number  of  persons,  who  were  going  on  the  same  route,  I 
provided  myself  with  a  knapsack,  a  blanket,  a  tin  quart 
pot  and  necessary  provisions,  and  on  the  23d  day  of  Feb- 
ruary shouldered  my  knapsack  and  set  out  on  my  journey. 
I  travelled  three  miles  to  the  northward  to  Lake  Ponti- 
chetrain;18  there  found  a  vessel  in  the  afternoon  ready  to 
cross  the  lake,  being  about  thirty  miles.  The  wind  being 
light,  the  next  day  at  twelve  o'clock  we  met  the  opposite 
shore;  went  to  a  tavern,  took  dinner,  and  found  eight 
men  travelling  the  same  way,  mostly  strangers  to  each 
other,  and  but  one  who  had  travelled  the  road  before. 
After  collecting  our  forces,  we  went  on,  and  travelled 
about  fifteen  miles  that  afternoon.  The  country  being 
flat,  we  had  to  wade  in  water  and  mud  a  considerable 
part  of  the  way,  and  in  many  places  knee  deep.  This 
we  found  to  be  attended  with  bad  consequences,  as  many 
of  us  took  cold  thereby.  At  night  we  stopped  at  a  small 
house,  the  occupants  of  which  gave  us  leave  to  sleep  on 

18  Lake  Pontchartrain  was  discovered  by  Iberville  on  his  exploring  expedi- 
tion in  1699,  and  named  in  honor  of  Count  Pontchartrain,  chancellor  of  France 
under  Louis  XIV.—  ED. 


62  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

the  floor.  We  wrapped  our  blankets  around  us,  with  our 
wet  clothes  on,  placed  our  feet  to  the  fire,  and  so  remained 
through  the  night. 

The  next  morning  our  joints  were  so  stiff  we  were 
hardly  able  to  walk;  yet  we  travelled  on  about  two  hours, 
when  we  stopped  by  the  way-side,  struck  up  a  fire,  cooked 
some  victuals,  refreshed  ourselves,  and  marched  on;  the 
same  we  did  several  times  during  the  day;  and  at  night 
found  we  had  gained  forty  miles.  We  again  refreshed 
ourselves  with  food,  and  went  to  our  repose  [37]  for  the 
night,  it  being  the  custom  among  these  travellers  to  start 
very  early,  as  much  as  two  hours  before  day.  Not  being 
accustomed  to  this  way  of  travelling,  myself  as  well  as 
several  more  wished  to  alter  this  course,  and  wait  till  a 
later  hour  for  starting;  but  the  major  part  refused  our  pro- 
posal, saying  they  wanted  to  get  home  as  quick  as  possible. 

No  one  wishing  to  be  left  alone,  in  the  morning  we  all 
followed  our  leader;  and  went  fifteen  miles  without  re- 
freshment of  any  kind.  My  feet  had  now  become  very 
sore  in  consequence  of  travelling  through  mud  and  water, 
and  I  was  much  exhausted  with  fatigue.  We  stopped, 
I  ate  and  drank  with  the  rest  of  my  comrades,  but  felt 
quite  unwell.  After  sitting  half  an  hour,  felt  unable  to 
travel;  they  endeavored  to  encourage  me,  but  I  found  it 
impossible  to  keep  pace  with  them.  I  was  sorry  to  be  left 
alone,  nevertheless  observed  to  them,  I  did  not  wish  to 
detain  any  one,  and  requested  them  to  pursue  their  jour- 
ney. I  got  from  them  all  the  information  possible  for  the 
journey,  bid  them  farewell,  and  we  parted.  At  this  time 
I  was  only  one  hundred  miles  from  New  Orleans,  and  nine 
hundred  miles  to  complete  my  journey  to  the  Ohio  river, 
and  to  add  to  my  misfortune,  five  hundred  of  this  lay 
through  an  Indian  country,  with  but  few  white  men  on  the 
road,  and  their  friendship  not  to  be  relied  on  so  much  as 
the  natives. 


1812-1819]  Buttrick's  Voyages  63 

When  my  companions  left  me,  I  was  at  a  very  friendly 
man's  house,  who  condoled  my  misfortune.  Here  I  tarried 
about  three  hours,  when,  having  determined  to  pursue  my 
journey,  I  took  leave  of  these  friendly  people,  and  com- 
menced my  lonely  journey,  moving  but  slowly  along;  and 
soon  found  I  had  entered  the  boundaries  of  the  Choctaw 
nation.19  I  had  no  difficulty  in  finding  the  way,  as  a  few 
years  before  this,  a  road  had  been  cut  through  the  Choctaw 
and  Chickasaw  nations  to  the  Tennessee  river; 20  and  as 
young  trees  and  brush  had  grown  up  in  this  road,  the  trees 
were  marked  to  assist  the  traveller.  By  strictly  observing 
these  marked  trees  I  felt  secure,  and  proceeded  slowly 
along,  sometimes  ten,  and  sometimes  fifteen  miles  in  a  day. 

At  night  I  generally  found  an  Indian  hut,  where  they 
[38]  would  receive  me  very  friendly  hi  their  way,  and  throw 
down  skins  for  me  to  sleep  on. 

Seven  days  had  now  elapsed,  and  my  health  not  in  the 
least  recruited,  when,  as  I  was  walking  on  very  deliber- 
ately, thinking  of  the  decrease  of  my  provision,  and  the 
distance  I  had  yet  to  travel,  I  was  overtaken  by  a  white 
man,  who  asked  me  from  whence  I  came,  and  where 
bound,  at  the  same  time  observing  that  I  looked  sick, 
which  probably  must  be  the  cause  of  my  being  alone;  I 
answered  it  was.  He  then  said,  "I  live  but  one  mile  from 
this,  go  with  me."  I  did  so,  and  found  his  wife  and  sev- 
eral children  in  a  small  log  hut,  by  whom  I  was  received 
very  kindly. 

This  favor  could  not  have  come  more  opportunely,  as  I 
was  both  fatigued  and  sick.  This  man  was  from  North 

19  For  the  Choctaw  Indians,  see  (Turning's  Tour,  volume  iv  of  our  series, 
note  187. —  ED. 

10  This  road  extended  from  Columbia,  Tennessee,  forty-five  miles  south- 
west of  Nashville  to  Madisonville,  Louisiana,  two  miles  north  of  Lake  Pont- 
chartrain.  It  was  begun  under  the  direction  of  the  war  department  (March, 
1816),  and  was  one  of  three  roads  constructed  about  that  time  by  United 
States  troops.—  ED. 


64  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

Carolina;  and  his  motive  for  thus  exiling  himself  and 
family  to  this  part  of  the  country  was  not  my  business  to 
inquire;  I  have  only  to  say,  that  they  look  suspicious. 
With  this  family  I  remained  two  days,  and  no  brother,  who 
had  been  long  absent,  could  have  been  treated  with  more 
kindness  and  affection. 

I  gave  him  a  narrative  of  my  life,  which  he  and  the 
family  listened  to  with  great  attention;  he  also  narrated 
his  great  adventures  in  hunting. 

The  principal  food  which  this  cabin  afforded,  was  dried 
venison  and  bread;  the  venison,  for  want  of  salt  to  pre- 
serve it,  is  cut  in  slices,  dried  and  smoked,  which  makes 
what  they  call  jerk. 

I  now  felt  myself  able  to  travel,  and  concluded  to  pro- 
ceed on.  He  furnished  me  with  as  much  of  this  meat  as 
I  could  carry,  and  after  ascertaining  that  it  was  twenty- 
five  miles  to  the  next  house,  I  took  an  affectionate  farewell 
of  this  friendly  man  and  family,  and  with  my  renewed 
strength,  and  supply  of  provisions,  hastily  travelled  on 
until  about  twelve  o'clock,  hardly  remembering  I  was 
weak;  but  becoming  somewhat  faint  for  want  of  food,  I  sat 
down,  took  some  refreshment,  and  then  travelled  on  again, 
till  I  arrived  at  an  Indian  village,  where  I  found  two  squaws, 
all  the  rest  having  left;  for  what  purpose  I  know  not; 
probably  for  a  frolic.  I  here  obtained  a  pint  of  sour  milk, 
which  proved  an  excellent  [39]  cordial  to  me  at  this  time. 
I  inquired  for  a  place  of  entertainment,  and  found,  by 
their  holding  up  four  fingers,  that  it  was  four  miles.  This 
I  quickly  travelled,  and  found  a  neat  Indian  hut,  where  I 
found  the  privilege  of  staying  by  myself,  without  inter- 
ruption from  the  family,  who  resided  in  an  adjoining 
one.  Salt  provision  and  bread  was  what  I  now  wanted, 
but  neither  of  them  could  be  procured;  if  I  except  some 
corn  pounded  up,  mixed  with  water,  and  baked  on  a  stone 


1812-1819]  Buttrick's  Voyages  65 

by  the  fire.  In  travelling  on  several  days,  I  came  to  the 
line  between  the  Choctaw  and  Chickasaw  nations,21  where 
I  saw  a  large  hewn  log  house  and  went  in.  The  room 
was  neat,  and,  as  is  usual,  contained  no  furniture,  except 
a  table,  nor  any  person,  except  a  squaw  and  a  few  children. 
I  walked  into  another  apartment,  and  after  staying  some 
time,  two  white  men  came  in  and  sat  down,  but  appeared 
to  have  no  wish  for  conversation  with  me.  I  endeavored 
to  make  some  inquiries  of  them,  but  found  they  declined 
any  answer.  A  dish  of  victuals  was  brought  in  and  set 
on  the  table,  which  apparently  consisted  of  minced  meat 
and  vegetables.  I  was  very  hungry,  and  the  sight  of  this 
food  was  delightful.  They  sat  down;  I  asked  permission 
to  partake  with  them;  the  answer  was  no.  I  stated  my 
hungry  situation,  and  observed  that  no  reasonable  com- 
pensation should  be  wanted;  the  answer  was  again  no. 
I  then  got  up  and  walked  away,  wondering  within  myself 
what  could  be  the  cause  of  these  unfeeling  creatures  being 
here;  probably  for  no  good.  I  faintly  travelled  on  until 
about  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  when  I  came  to  an 
Indian  hut,  went  round  to  the  back  part,  there  being  no 
door  in  front,  saw  two  Indians  sitting  on  a  platform  of 
hewn  logs,  and  endeavored  to  make  some  inquiries,  but 
could  not  be  understood.  Thinking  of  the  contents  of  my 
knapsack,  which  contained  a  little  jerk  and  fat  pork,  with- 
out bread  or  salt,  my  stomach  too  weak  to  receive  these, 
and  I  knew  of  nothing  else  I  could  obtain.  At  this  mo- 
ment a  boy  came  out  of  a  small  hut  a  few  paces  distant, 
bringing  a  large  wooden  bowl  full  of  boiled  corn,  and 
setting  it  down,  they  three  placed  themselves  around  it. 
I,  knowing  the  Indian  custom  to  distribute  a  part  of  what 


11  Beginning  with  the  Mississippi  River  at  34°  30',  this  boundary  was  an 
artificial  line  drawn  southeast  to  Noosacheahn  Creek,  thence  following  that 
creek  to  the  Tombigbee  River. —  ED. 


66  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

they  had  to  strangers,  ventured  up  and  formed  one  of  the 
circle.  A  large  horn  [40]  spoon,  perhaps  three  times  the 
size  of  a  common  table  spoon,  was  placed  on  the  corn, 
which  the  oldest  Indian  filled  and  put  into  his  mouth;  the 
second  one  did  the  same,  then  I  followed,  and  so  it  went 
round.  When  we  had  continued  so  a  few  minutes,  a  tall 
well  dressed  Indian  came  out  of  the  door,  looked  upon  us 
all,  but  viewed  me  very  attentively;  he  then  went  back 
and  closed  the  door,  but  immediately  returned  bringing 
with  him  a  cake  made  of  pounded  corn  and  baked,  about 
the  size  of  a  large  cracker,  but  much  thicker;  this  he  put 
into  my  hand,  and  then  stepped  back  with  his  eyes  fixed 
on  me.  I  divided  it  into  four  parts,  and  gave  each  of  my 
messmates  a  part.  He  smiled  and  went  again  into  the 
house,  and  left  us  to  finish  our  repast.  Never  had  I  more 
reason  for  gratitude  than  at  this  time,  and  I  think  I  did 
feel  thankful  that  their  hearts  were  open  to  my  necessi- 
ties. After  we  had  done  eating,  one  of  the  Indians  took 
the  bowl  and  carried  it  back,  the  others  followed,  leaving 
me  alone.  From  the  appearance  of  these  Indians,  I  sup- 
posed they  might  be  servants  or  laborers  for  the  Indian 
who  brought  me  the  cake,  who  I  soon  found  was  a  chief; 
for  when  they  were  gone,  this  chief  came  out  again  to  me, 
dressed  in  great  style,  with  silver  bands  around  his  arms, 
a  large  silver  plate  on  his  breast,  moccassins  and  leggings 
elegantly  worked  in  Indian  fashion,  a  handsome  hat  filled 
with  plumes,  with  rows  of  beads  around  it,  and  other 
ornaments;  a  horse  was  led  up  to  a  stake,  a  genteel  saddle 
and  bridle  was  put  on  him,  and  in  every  respect  the  horse 
appeared  fit  for  any  gentleman  to  ride  upon.  The  chief 
looked  on  himself,  then  on  the  horse,  then  on  me;  and  I, 
wishing  to  gratify  him,  expressed  my  surprise  and  gratifi- 
cation as  well  as  I  could  both  in  my  looks  and  actions. 
This  pleased  him  well;  he  soon  spoke  a  few  words  of 


1812-1819]  Buff  rick's  Voyages  67 

English,  and  handed  me  a  bundle  of  papers.  On  exam- 
ining them,  I  found  them  to  be  bills  of  goods  to  a  consider- 
able amount  purchased  at  New  Orleans.  On  looking 
over  these  bills,  I  found  they  contained  a  number  of 
articles  which  he  then  had  on ;  pointing  to  the  charges  and 
then  to  the  articles,  I  expressed  great  surprise  at  the  riches 
which  he  wore.  All  this  exalted  me  much  in  his  esteem, 
and  we  continued  thus  a  considerable  time.  He  then  led 
me  into  the  room  where  [41]  his  wife  and  children  were, 
gave  me  a  glass  of  good  old  whiskey,  conducted  me  into 
another  neat  apartment,  spread  a  handsome  grass  carpet 
on  the  floor,  and,  by  signs,  bid  me  welcome  to  stay  all 
night.  In  the  same  manner,  by  signs,  he  informed  me  that 
he  was  going  off,  and  bowing,  left  the  room.  I  saw  him 
no  more;  probably  he  was  going  to  attend  an  Indian  coun- 
cil. Being  refreshed  with  food,  and  it  drawing  towards 
night,  I  laid  down  on  the  carpet,  covered  myself  with  my 
blanket,  and  quietly  reposed  until  two  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  when  I  awoke,  carefully  got  up,  shouldered  my 
pack  and  left  this  hospitable  mansion.  Being  finely  re- 
freshed and  feeling  new  vigor,  I  travelled  on  easily  till  the 
sun  was  up  a  short  distance ;  when  coming  to  a  house,  found 
a  white  woman  and  her  daughter.  I  called  for  breakfast, 
and  was  well  supplied  with  bread,  meat,  tea,  &c.,  and 
some  to  carry  with  me  on  my  journey.  From  the  hos- 
pitable treatment  I  had  received  at  the  two  last  houses,  I 
began  to  think  that  the  worst  of  my  journey  was  over,  and 
at  eight  o'clock  I  proceeded  on  about  two  miles,  when  I 
met  three  squaws  with  large  packs,  who  appeared  to  be 
in  great  haste,  and  took  no  notice  of  me;  which  gave  me 
reason  to  suspect  some  trouble  a-head.  One  or  two  miles 
further  on  heard  a  whooping  and  yelling,  and  presently 
saw  an  Indian  running  to  meet  me.  He  walked  very  fast, 
bare  foot  and  barelegged,  without  any  clothes  but  his 


68  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

shirt,  and  that  very  bloody,  looking  as  though  he  had  been 
engaged  in  some  severe  conflict.  When  he  came  up  he 
seized  me  by  the  shoulder  and  held  me  fast,  and  kept  his 
continual  whooping  and  yelling,  which  almost '  stunned 
me.  He  was  very  drunk,  and  kept  reeling  backward  and 
forward,  which  occasioned  me  to  do  the  same,  as  his  ner- 
vous arm  made  such  a  grip  on  my  shoulder  it  was  im- 
possible for  me  to  extricate  myself.  Sometimes  he  would 
bear  me  to  the  ground,  and  most  of  his  weight  would  be 
upon  me.  Trying  to  give  signs  that  I  was  sick,  he  laughed ; 
I  then  called  him  bobashela,  which  is  their  word  for 
brother;  this  pleased  him,  and  having  a  bottle  of  whiskey 
in  his  other  hand,  he  put  it  to  my  mouth  saying  good.  I 
opened  my  mouth,  and  he  thrust  the  neck  of  the  bottle 
seemingly  down  my  throat,  the  whiskey  ran  out,  and 
strangled  me  badly,  and  [42]  when  I  sat  to  coughing  and 
choking,  he  burst  out  into  a  loud  laugh  and  let  go  of  my 
shoulders.  He  was  a  stout,  tall  man,  had  a  long  knife  by 
his  side,  and  put  his  hand  several  times  on  it,  but  exhibited 
no  appearance  of  injuring  me;  yet,  from  his  drunken  sit- 
uation, I  thought  I  had  considerable  to  fear.  I  repeated 
the  word  brother  several  times,  when  he  looked  sharp  at 
me  a  few  moments,  and  uttering  a  loud  scream,  left  me  to 
pursue  my  way,  happy  that  the  word  bobashela  had  been 
my  protection.  About  half  an  hour  after  this,  coming 
round  a  large  bend  in  the  road,  I  saw  twenty  or  thirty  In- 
dians, men,  squaws  and  papooses,  all  formed  in  a  circle. 
On  coming  up  with  them,  I  endeavored  to  pass,  but  one 
caught  me  by  my  pack  and  pulled  me  partly  into  the  ring; 
another  pulled,  and  another,  seemingly  half  a  dozen  pulling 
different  ways,  talking,  laughing,  whooping,  and  hallooing, 
and  I  in  the  midst,  without  means  of  defence  or  chance  of 
escape.  I  endeavored  to  make  signs  of  sickness,  but  to 
no  effect ;  soon  a  tall,  old  Indian  stepped  up  and  spoke 


1812-1819]  Buttrick's  Voyages  69 

to  them ;  they  all  let  go  of  me.  I  turned  to  this  Indian 
and  made  signs  of  sickness,  by  putting  my  hand  on 
my  breast,  &c.,  which  he  noticed,  and  seemingly  with 
pity;  he  was  the  only  sober  one  among  them.  They 
now  began  a  second  attack  upon  me;  he  spoke  again 
and  they  left  me.  He  now  made  a  motion  for  me 
to  go  on,  which  I  did,  and  having  proceeded  a  few 
yards,  I  turned  my  head  partly  round  and  perceived  a 
young  Indian  with  a  glass  bottle  in  his  hand  just  in  the 
act  of  striking  me  on  the  head.  I  looked  him  full  in  the 
face;  he  lowered  his  bottle,  and  sitting  partly  down, 
laughed ;  he  then  returned  to  his  comrades.  I  travelled  on 
as  fast  as  possible  till  I  lost  sight  of  them,  when  getting 
about  half  a  mile,  I  came  to  a  stream  of  water  which 
crossed  the  road.  It  was  narrow,  and  the  current  swift;  a 
tree  was  fallen  across,  on  the  body  of  which  I  passed  over. 
Stopping  for  a  moment,  I  heard  the  yell  of  an  Indian,  and 
the  footsteps  of  a  horse  in  full  speed ;  fearing  it  might  be 
some  of  the  gang  I  had  just  left,  I  stepped  into  the  bushes 
and  secreted  myself  behind  a  tree.  In  this  situation  I 
could  see  a  person  who  passed  without  being  discovered 
myself.  Scarcely  had  I  placed  myself  behind  the  tree 
when  an  Indian  rode  up  to  the  stream  on  full  speed  with  a 
[43]  rifle  on  his  shoulder;  coming  to  the  stream  of 
water,  his  horse  stopped  and  refused  to  proceed ;  he  made 
several  attempts  to  cross,  but  the  horse  refused,  wheeling 
about  and  endeavoring  to  return.  The  Indian  finding 
that  he  could  not  make  the  horse  cross,  sat  still,  looking 
up  and  down  in  every  direction  for  a  considerable  time, 
when,  perceiving  no  person,  and  not  descrying  the  object 
of  his  pursuit,  he  wheeled  about  and  returned.  This  was 
the  same  young  Indian  who  pursued  me  with  the  bottle, 
and  who,  had  he  been  fortunate  enough  to  have  discovered 
me,  would  immediately  have  ended  my  life  with  his  rifle. 


70  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

After  some  time,  I  ventured  out  from  behind  the  tree,  and 
in  great  haste  pursued  my  journey,  often  looking  back, 
fearing  that  this  or  some  other  Indian  might  be  in  pursuit 
of  me.  I  passed  a  number  of  cabins  without  stopping 
and  without  refreshment  till  after  sunset,  when  I  saw  a 
squaw  standing  at  a  cabin  door.  I  asked  permission  to 
stay.  She  made  signs  by  holding  up  two  fingers,  that  in 
two  miles  I  should  find  a  place  to  stop  at.  I  went  on  —  it 
soon  became  dark  —  I  saw  a  bright  light  shining  between 
the  logs  of  a  cabin.  On  going  up  to  the  door  I  saw  a 
number  of  squaws  sitting  round  the  room  silent,  as  though 
something  serious  had  taken  place.  I  made  motions  for 
staying  all  night,  when  one,  who  appeared  to  be  head  of 
the  number,  shook  her  head  and  pointed  to  another  room, 
there  being  two  rooms  under  this  roof.  I  immediately 
heard  surly  noises  and  clashing  of  knives,  the  squaw  ap- 
peared very  anxious,  and  shaking  her  head,  made  signs 
for  me  to  be  off.  I  hesitated  for  a  moment,  but  soon 
found  that  the  room  was  filled  with  drunken  Indians, 
which  occasioned  me  to  wait  for  no  further  invitation  to 
depart.  The  squaws  all  looking  earnestly  at  each  other 
convinced  me  of  my  danger,  and  I  stepped  nimbly  to  the 
door  and  proceeded  on.  Walking  about  half  a  mile,  I 
came  to  a  low  swampy  piece  of  ground,  and  it  being  ex- 
tremely dark,  I  could  not  tell  what  direction  to  take;  and 
being  much  fatigued  with  travelling,  and  faint  for  want 
of  food,  having  taken  nothing  through  the  day,  I  sat  down 
on  an  old  stump  in  mud  almost  knee  deep,  and  should 
have  fallen  asleep  had  it  not  been  for  the  fear  of  chilling 
to  death,  or  being  massacred  by  the  Indians,  which  I  cer- 
tainly should  if  they  had  happened  to  have  come  that  way. 
After  ruminating  for  some  time  [44]  on  my  perilous  situa- 
tion, I  faintly  rose  up,  travelled  on  perhaps  for  a  mile, 
when  fortunately  I  saw  another  light,  and  following  it 


1812-1819]  Buttrick's  Voyages  71 

came  up  to  another  cabin.  I  knocked,  and  an  old  Indian 
opened  the  door.  I  stepped  in  —  made  signs  to  stay  all 
night  —  he  shook  his  head,  pointed  to  the  cabin  I  had  just 
left,  and  said,  Indian,  whiskey,  making  motions  that  the 
Indians  that  belonged  there  would  soon  be  at  home,  and 
I  should  be  in  danger  should  they  return  and  find  me  at 
their  cabin.  This  signified  nothing  to  me,  as  I  was  totally 
unable  to  proceed  any  further.  I  therefore  threw  down 
my  bundle,  and  this  poor  old  Indian  expressed  great 
friendship  and  fear  for  my  safety.  He  threw  down  some 
deerskins  which  they  used  for  beds,  and  I  laid  down  with 
my  bundle  under  my  head,  without  removing  any  of  my 
clothing.  I  had  a  wish  to  keep  awake,  but  it  was  impos- 
sible, and  I  soon  fell  asleep;  so  much  was  I  overcome  with 
fatigue  and  fasting.  I  awoke  in  about  two  hours;  found 
this  old  friend  sitting  up  as  if  to  guard  me;  we  looked  at 
each  other  wistfully,  and  in  a  few  minutes  I  fell  asleep 
again.  About  two  hours  before  daylight,  the  Indian  pull- 
ing me  by  the  arm,  awoke  me,  when  at  a  little  distance 
from  the  cabin  I  heard  Indians  whooping,  bells  rattling, 
and  horses  in  considerable  numbers  coming  with  the  ut- 
most rapidity  and  haste.  This  was  a  horrid  sound  at  this 
dead  hour  of  the  night,  when  all  before  had  been  silent. 
I  jumped  up  as  quick  as  possible,  and  the  old  Indian  hand- 
ing me  my  bundle,  stepped  to  the  door  and  was  just  open- 
ing it,  when  they  approached  so  near  I  stepped  back,  and 
both  stood  trembling  with  fear.  Fortunately  for  us  they 
passed  by,  nor  was  it  long  from  our  hearing  them  on  one 
side  before  they  had  passed  out  of  hearing  on  the  other. 
On  opening  the  door,  it  was  so  extremely  dark,  I  could 
perceive  no  object;  I  went  back  and  sat  down  before  the 
fire  on  a  block,  not  wishing  to  sleep  any  more;  while  the 
poor  Indian  walked  back  and  forth  in  the  cabin.  Within 
one  hour  the  same  noise  of  whooping,  yelling,  horses  run- 


72  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

ning,  &c.,  was  heard.  I  caught  my  bundle,  slipped  out 
at  the  door,  walked  hastily  about  fifty  yards,  stepped  into 
the  bushes  and  sat  down.  In  a  few  moments  four  or  five 
Indians  rode  up  to  the  door  and  dismounted.  When  I 
had  seen  the  last  of  them  go  in  and  close  the  door,  I  ven- 
tured on  my  old  track  again;  not  without  listening  [45] 
attentively  at  the  least  noise,  fearing  they  might  be  in  pur- 
suit of  me.  Travelling  on  as  fast  as  my  trembling  limbs 
would  permit,  until  nearly  sunrise,  I  saw  a  large  log  house 
on  the  right-hand  side  of  the  way,  and  hoped  to  find  some 
friendly  aid  at  this  place;  but  on  arriving  near  the  place,  I 
observed  on  the  left-hand  side,  a  number  of  large  trees 
fallen  and  burnt,  except  the  bodies  and  large  limbs;  among 
these  were  ten  or  twelve  Indians,  some  sitting  but  most  of 
them  lying  down,  being  intoxicated.  These  wretched 
creatures  had  been  using  their  knives  upon  each  other  till 
their  heads  and  arms  were  completely  mangled,  and  were 
covered  with  blood  from  head  to  foot.  This,  with  the 
addition  of  crock  from  the  burnt  trees,  caused  them  to  ex- 
hibit a  scene  of  horror  which  I  cannot  describe.  I  passed 
them  without  even  turning  my  head,  leaving  them  to  sup- 
pose I  did  not  notice  them.  It  now  began  to  rain^very 
hard ;  I  travelled  on  till  about  nine  o'clock,  when  I  saw  a 
hut  a-head,  and  coming  within  about  three  hundred  yards, 
three  white  men  came  out  to  meet  me.  When  we  met  they 
appeared  very  glad  to  see  me,  as  they  had  heard  of  me 
several  times  before.  I  learned  that  they  were  from  Nat- 
chez, and  bound  to  the  state  of  Indiana,  on  the  same  road 
I  was  travelling,  and  would  keep  me  company  through  the 
remaining  part  of  this  wilderness.  It  is  probable  these 
two  men  passed  me  two  days  before,  while  I  was  at  my 
friend's  the  Indian  chief. 

The  landlord  here  was  a  white  man  who  had  married  a 
squaw,  which  enabled  him  to  reside  in  peace  among  them. 


1812-1819]  Buttrick's  Voyages  73 

I  conversed  with  him  respecting  his  happy  situation;  of 
the  plenty  of  every  comfort  of  life  that  appeared  around 
him,  free  from  the  noise  and  bustle  of  cities  and  other  pop- 
ulous places,  money  constantly  coming  in,  with  little  or 
no  expenditure,  &c.,  &c.  He  made  some  reply;  the  tears 
started  in  his  eyes,  and  the  discourse  dropped.  We  tar- 
ried here  until  the  next  forenoon,  in  which  time  I  washed 
and  dried  my  clothes,  procured  provisions  of  our  landlord, 
and  made  preparations  for  our  departure.  We  left  this 
abode  of  plenty,  after  a  stay  of  twenty-four  hours,  being 
finely  refreshed  with  the  abundance  of  everything  which 
is  necessary  for  the  support  of  man.  Nothing  extraordi- 
nary happened  to  us  on  the  way;  the  Indians  appeared 
[46]  friendly,  and  provisions  generally  procured  with  ease, 
and  thus  we  passed  on  till  we  arrived  on  the  banks  of  the 
Tennessee  river,  at  a  house  kept  by  an  Indian  by  the  name 
of  Tallbot.  This  man  was  said  to  be  very  rich,  in  land, 
cattle  and  negro  slaves,  and  also  to  have  large  sums  of 
money  in  the  bank.  He  had  but  one  daughter,  and  I  was 
told  that  many  white  men  had  attempted  to  gain  this 
prize.  But  the  old  man  suspecting  their  affections  to  be 
placed  on  the  money  rather  than  the  daughter,  advised 
her  to  remain  single  a  little  longer. 

It  has  often  been  remarked,  and  I  believe  truly,  of  the 
Chickasaw  and  Choctaw  Indians,23  that  they  are  very  hos- 
pitable to  the  white  people  who  traverse  their  country;  and 
I  have  never  heard  of  a  life  being  taken  or  an  insult  given, 
when  they  were  free  from  ardent  spirits;  but  like  all  other 
Indians,  when  intoxicated  they  are  savage,  cruel  and  fear- 
less. But  even  then,  they  oftenest  take  revenge  on  their 
own  countrymen,  relatives  and  friends,  who  happen  to 

a  For  further  information  on  the  customs  of  the  Chickasaw  and  Choctaw 
Indians,  consult  Adair,  American  Indians  (London,  1775);  Pickett,  History  of 
Alabama  (Charleston,  1851). —  ED. 


74  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

offend  them.  Before  they  enter  on  any  business  of  im- 
portance, such  as  agriculture,  or  a  hunting  or  fishing  ex- 
pedition, they  despatch  several  of  their  men  to  a  consid- 
erable distance,  to  procure  a  quantity  of  ardent  spirits. 
This  is  brought  on  horses,  in  kegs  of  their  own  manu- 
facturing, and  carried  to  such  places  as  they  appoint, 
where  it  is  deposited  until  the  ti  e  appointed  for  their 
meeting  arrives.  And  it  is  remarkable  that  although  their 
thirst  for  rum  is  so  great,  yet  this  deposite  is  entirely  safe, 
right  in  the  sight  of  every  one,  and  no  fears  are  entertained 
of  its  being  meddled  with  until  the  time  appointed.  When 
this  time  arrives  they  assemble  and  commence  their  oper- 
ations ;  singing,  dancing,  drinking,  &c.  They  always  select 
one  or  more  to  keep  sober,  who  sit  quietly  by  themselves, 
watching  the  rest,  and  who  taste  not  a  drop  them- 
selves till  the  frolic  is  over,  even  if  it  should  continue  three 
or  four  days  and  nights,  as  it  sometimes  does,  but  which 
time  it  seldom  or  never  exceeds.  This  being  over,  the 
Indian  or  Indians  who  have  performed  this  duty  take 
their  turn,  and  in  the  same  way  take  their  fill,  without 
interruption. 

Crimes  committed  in  a  state  of  intoxication  are  gener- 
ally forgiven,  not  even  excepting  murder;  but  if  otherwise 
committed  they  are  punished  with  the  greatest  severity. 
[47]  Their  barbarous  customs,  however,  are  fast  wearing 
away,  since  our  missionaries,  schoolmasters,  &c.,  are  sent 
among  them. 

They  seem  to  have  some  sense  of  religious  worship,  as 
at  several  times,  when  passing  their  cabins,  I  have  seen 
them  sitting  or  kneeling  in  different  postures,  at  which 
tune  they  will  remain  fixed  in  their  position  without  even 
turning  their  heads,  let  what  will  come.  This  ceremony 
they  perform  after  losing  a  near  relative,  but  how  long 
they  continue  hi  this  posture  I  know  not.  Once  or  twice 


1812-1819]  Buttrick's  Voyages  75 

I  saw  four  poles  stuck  in  the  ground,  with  forked  ends  up, 
and  sticks  laid  across  at  little  distances,  on  which  was  a 
large  roll  of  bark.  On  inquiry  I  was  told  that  in  this  bark 
was  the  remains  of  a  deceased  person,  who,  after  remain- 
ing there  the  accustomed  time,  would  be  taken  down  and 
buried. 

They  are  very  affectionate  to  each  other,  especially  to 
their  children,  whom  they  treat  with  great  kindness  and 
attention.  We  arrived  at  Mr.  Tallbot's  late  in  the  even- 
ing, and  tarried  there  till  next  morning,  when  we  crossed 
the  river,  about  one  mile,  and  landed  in  the  state  of  Ten- 
nessee. This  gave  us  fresh  hopes  of  finishing  our  journey 
among  civilized  people.  We  travelled  about  nine  miles, 
and  came  to  a  house  where  we  changed  our  clothes  and  re 
freshed  ourselves.  I  disposed  of  my  blanket,  cooking 
utensils,  &c.,  which  I  had  prepared  for  my  journey 
through  the  wilderness,  and  moved  on  with  a  small  bun- 
dle in  my  hand,  which  enabled  me  to  travel  very  easily, 
being  freed  from  my  former  load.  I  kept  company  with 
my  companions  two  days,  when  they  were  to  leave  my 
road.  We  bade  each  other  farewell,  and  I  was  once  more 
left  alone.  I  pursued  on,  and  came  to  a  village  where  was 
a  large  three  story  brick  tavern;  they  appeared  like  New 
England  people.  Thinking  I  should  here  find  what  I  had 
long  been  wishing  for,  salt  provision,  I  waited  till  dinner 
was  ready,  and  to  my  joy  I  saw  a  large  dish  of  salt  beef  and 
vegetables  placed  on  the  table.  In  company  with  a  num- 
ber of  gentlemen,  I  sat  down  and  feasted  my  appetite  till 
the  last  man  rose  from  the  table.  Although  I  had  eaten 
twice  or  three  times  the  quantity  of  food  I  had  been  accus- 
tomed to,  yet  I  was  not  satisfied ;  and  at  supper  I  renewed 
my  hold  on  the  salt  [48]  beef,  to  the  neglect  of  pies,  cakes, 
&c.  I  went  to  bed  fully  satisfied,  but  awoke  about  mid- 
night in  most  distressing  pain,  and  almost  famishing  with 


j6  Early  Western  Travels  (jVol.  8 

thirst.  I  got  up,  went  down  stairs  in  search  of  some  per- 
son, but  could  find  none.  I  then  opened  the  outside  door, 
and  the  rain  was  pouring  down  in  torrents.  I  saw  an  old 
tub  standing  under  the  eaves,  full  of  water.  I  ventured 
out,  put  my  mouth  to  the  tub  and  drank  several  times;  I 
then  waited  a  few  minutes,  drank  again,  and  went  in.  All 
this  did  not  satisfy  my  thirst;  but  as  I  was  very  wet,  being 
but  partly  dressed,  I  went  to  my  bed,  shivering  with  cold, 
and  after  getting  a  little  warm,  fell  asleep.  I  awoke  in 
about  two  hours,  in  much  the  same  situation  as  at  first, 
went  to  the  old  tub  again,  and  drank  with  the  same  eager- 
ness. I  then  went  back  to  my  bed  scarcely  able  to  crawl, 
and  passed  the  remainder  of  the  night  in  a  sleepless  and 
distressed  condition.  Early  in  the  morning,  hearing  some 
of  the  family  up,  I  went  down,  sat  by  the  fire,  and  seemed 
to  myself  but  little  more  than  alive.  Breakfast  being 
called,  I  had  no  appetite,  and  waiting  till  eleven  o'clock  I 
sat  out  on  my  way,  and  pursued  on  as  well  as  I  could  till 
about  sunset,  when  I  had  gained  eight  miles,  and  came  to  a 
planter's  house,  who  invited  me  to  stay  with  him  all  night, 
which  invitation  I  accepted.  But  nothing  could  I  eat  till 
the  next  day,  and  continued  travelling  in  this  situation 
four  or  five  days,  when  my  appetite  began  to  return,  and 
I  recovered  my  strength  fast,  so  that  in  a  few  days  I  was 
able  to  travel  my  usual  distance.  Passing  through  a  num- 
ber of  fine  villages  and  towns,  the  largest  of  which  was 
Nashville,  I  arrived  at  Lexington,23  Kentucky,  where  I 
found  people  very  friendly,  and  willing  to  assist  the  weary 
traveller  on  all  occasions.  From  thence  I  pursued  on  my 
course  till  I  arrived  at  the  Ohio  river,  and  crossed  over 
into  Cincinnati,  in  the  afternoon  of  the  forty-seventh  day 
from  my  leaving  New  Orleans;  having  performed  a  jour- 

n  A  brief  account  of  Nashville  and  Lexington  may  be  found  in  A.  Michaux's 
Travels,  vol.  iii  of  our  series,  notes  28,  103. —  ED. 


1812-1819]  ButtricKs  Voyages  77 

ney  of  one  thousand  miles  only.  The  next  morning  I 
walked  out  in  the  streets,  and  met  one  of  my  first  com- 
panions with  whom  I  started  from  New  Orleans.  He 
lived  a  few  miles  above,  on  the  Kentucky  side  of  the  river. 
He  informed  me  he  had  been  at  home  twenty-two  days, 
and  told  me  that  the  third  day  after  we  parted  another 
man  stopped,  and  the  fifth  day  [49]  two  more,  and  before 
he  was  three  fourths  of  the  way  through  his  journey, 
there  was  only  himself  and  one  other  left.  Some  from 
being  lame,  and  others  sick,  and  what  has  become  of 
them,  said  he,  I  know  not;  you  are  the  only  one  I  have 
seen  or  heard  from. 

I  remained  at  this  place  a  few  days,  and  then  went  out 
about  ten  miles  to  a  town  called  Madison.34  It  being  now 
the  month  of  April,  and  fearing  my  old  complaint,  the 
fever  and  ague,  I  resolved  to  quit  the  Ohio  river,  and  go 
out  to  Detroit  in  the  Michigan  territory.  A  gentleman 
from  that  place  was  soon  expected  here  for  his  family,  who 
at  this  time  resided  in  this  neighborhood.  The  lady  hear- 
ing of  my  determination,  called  on  me,  and  wished  me 
to  stay  there  till  her  husband's  return,  and  then  accom- 
pany them  to  Detroit.  This  was  a  pleasant  thing  to  me 
as  I  was  wholly  unacquainted  with  the  road  through  that 
country.  The  gentleman  did  not  return  until  the  first  of 
August,  when  he  arrived  with  a  waggon  and  horses,  and 
after  suitable  preparations  were  made,  he  took  his  wife 
and  children  with  some  light  baggage,  and  we  commenced 
our  journey. 

We  found  the  roads  very  rough  for  about  eighty  miles, 
when  we  came  on  to  the  prairie  grounds.  We  had  laid  in  a 
good  stock  of  provisions,  knowing  that  in  consequence  of 

M  Madison,  on  the  Ohio  River  fifty  miles  above  Louisville  and  the  county- 
seat  of  Jefferson  County,  Indiana,  was  settled  in  1808.  A  description  of  its 
appearance  in  1816  states  that  it  contained  three  or  four  brick  houses,  twenty 
frame  houses,  and  about  a  hundred  cabins. —  ED. 


78  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

the  late  war  the  country  was  nearly  drained.  We  now 
came  to  where  the  water  was  very  bad,  the  country  being 
flat  and  the  water  stagnant.  After  straining  it  would  still 
exhibit  live  insects,  which  they  call  wiggles.  The  inhabi- 
tants were  few  and  scattering,  but  the  soil  remarkably 
good,  the  grass  growing  five  or  six  feet  high,  interspersed 
with  flowers  of  all  colors,  which  gave  it  a  delightful  appear- 
ance. It  is  thought  by  many  that  this  part  of  the  country 
was  once  overflown  with  water,  and  what  adds  to  the  prob- 
ability is  the  number  of  little  hills  or  rises  of  land,  cov- 
ered with  trees,  standing  in  these  prairie  grounds,  like  so 
many  islands,  as  probably  they  once  were.  Great  num- 
bers of  cattle  are  drove  from  Kentucky  and  elsewhere  to 
feed  on  these  grounds,  and  soon  become  very  fat.  We 
camped  out  two  nights,  and  by  forming  tents  with  blank- 
ets made  ourselves  very  comfortable,  and  slept  without 
any  apprehension,  except  from  the  prairie  rattlesnake,  a 
small  but  very  poisonous  reptile,  [50]  frequently  to  be 
seen  in  those  parts.  After  a  slow  but  safe  journey,  we 
arrived  at  Lower  Sandusky,"  two  hundred  miles  on  our 
way.  Here  we  sent  our  horses  on  by  the  mail  carrier, 
went  on  board  of  a  vessel  at  the  foot  of  the  Sandusky 
Rapids,  so  called,  and  went  down  the  Sandusky  river 
to  the  Lower  Sandusky  bay,  to  a  small  town  called  Ven- 
ice.2' At  this  place  but  two  years  before,  not  a  tree  had 
been  fallen;  now,  between  twenty  and  thirty  log  houses 

25  Lower  Sandusky,  at  the  head  of  navigation  of  the  Sandusky  River,  was 
until  Wayne's  victory  at  Fallen  Timbers,  an  important  Wyandot  village.  A 
fort  was  built  there  during  the  War  of  1812-15,  for  the  history  of  which  see 
Evans's  Tour,  post,  note  52.  From  the  close  of  the  war  the  growth  of  settle- 
ment was  continuous.  About  1850  the  name  of  the  town  was  changed  to  Fre- 
mont, in  honor  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  explorer. —  ED. 

28  This  village  was  laid  out  in  1816  at  the  mouth  of  Cold  Creek,  three  miles 
west  of  Sandusky  City.  It  developed  but  slowly,  owing  to  the  unhealthfulness 
of  the  climate;  see  Flint's  Letters,  vol.  ix  of  our  series.  Flour  mills  were  con- 
structed in  1833,  and  it  became  a  centre  for  the  industry  in  Ohio. —  ED. 


1812-1819]  ButtricKs  Voyages  79 

are  built,  two  large  framed  store  houses,  and  two  wharves 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  back  country  traders. 
Vessels  of  considerable  size  come  up  lake  Erie  and  deposite 
their  loading  here,  being  but  six  miles  from  the  lake. 
The  next  day  after  our  arrival,  president  Monroe,  with  a 
number  of  distinguished  officers,  stopped  here,  on  his  tour 
through  the  Western  country."  We  stayed  here  two  days, 
when  we  hired  a  man  to  carry  us  across  the  lake  in  a  boat. 
We  laid  in  but  a  small  quantity  of  provision  as  the  dis- 
tance was  but  seventy  miles,  and  with  a  fair  wind  could 
run  it  in  less  than  a  day.  We  set  sail  at  noon  with  a  fair 
breeze,  and  ran  up  the  lake  about  twenty  miles,  keeping 
near  the  shore.  About  an  hour  before  sunset  it  became 
calm,  and  not  wishing  to  be  exposed  on  the  open  lake  hi 
the  night,  we  ran  into  a  creek  a  short  distance  and  made 
our  boat  fast  to  a  stake,  which  had  been  set  there  by  some 
one  before  us.  We  found  there  another  boat  with  two 
men  encamped  on  a  pleasant  beach.  The  gentleman 
with  his  family  and  pilot  went  on  shore  and  encamped 
also.  I  chose  to  remain  on  board.  They  formed  now  a 
considerable  company,  four  men,  one  woman  and  three 
children.  They  built  up  a  large  fire,  got  supper,  prepared 
camps  for  the  night,  and  laid  down  in  quietude,  expect- 
ing a  quiet  night's  rest.  But  the  clouds  gathered  up  fast, 
and  between  eight  and  nine  o'clock  the  wind  blew  violently, 
and  they  gathered  up  their  blankets  and  clothing  and  tried 
to  get  on  board  the  boat,  but  she  lay  so  far  from  shore 
that  with  all  my  assistance  they  could  not  accomplish  their 
object.  The  fire  had  all  blown  away  and  not  a  spark  left. 

17  President  Monroe  made  two  tours.  On  the  first,  lasting  from  May  to 
the  middle  of  September,  1817,  he  visited  the  New  England  States,  journeyed 
thence  through  New  York  to  Niagara,  west  to  Detroit,  and  returned  to  Wash- 
ington via  Zanesville  and  Pittsburg.  On  the  second,  undertaken  in  1819,  he 
went  as  far  south  as  Augusta,  Georgia,  passed  through  the  Cherokee  region  to 
Nashville,  and  thence  to  Louisville  and  Lexington. —  ED. 


8o  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

The  night  was  dark,  and  the  rain  poured  down  in  torrents; 
there  was  no  shelter,  not  even  a  tree  to  defend  them  from 
the  tempest.  The  three  men  took  each  of  them  a  child, 
wrapped  it  in  a  blanket,  [51]  and  sat  down  upon  such 
clothing  or  bedding  as  came  nearest  to  hand.  The  other 
man  and  the  woman  were  obliged  to  sit  without  anything 
but  their  clothing.  I  often  called  to  them  from  the  boat, 
but  the  howling  of  the  tempest  prevented  me  from  being 
heard.  In  this  situation  they  all  remained  about  eight 
hours  till  daylight,  when  it  ceased  to  rain,  but  the  wind  con- 
tinued to  blow  very  hard.  I  then  moved  the  stern  of  the 
boat  round  and  got  on  shore;  but  the  sight  of  these  weather- 
beaten  objects  presented  a  spectacle  I  cannot  describe. 
The  children,  however,  had  been  kept  considerably  com- 
fortable through  the  night.  The  woman  acknowledged 
she  was  alive,  and  that  was  all  that  could  be  said  of  her; 
the  men  appeared  much  better  than  I  should  have  sup- 
posed. As  for  myself,  I  was  comfortably  situated,  and 
should  have  slept  well  had  it  not  been  for  the  anxiety  I 
felt  for  my  unhappy  fellow-travellers  on  shore.  The  lake 
now  appeared  more  like  the  Atlantic  than  like  an  inland 
navigation,  the  waves  running  so  high  that  it  was  impos- 
sible for  us  to  venture  out;  and  the  high  grass  and  a  few 
bushes  at  a  little  distance  promising  some  assistance  in 
sheltering  us  from  the  storm,  we  evacuated  the  old  post 
and  retired  to  them  for  shelter,  where  with  the  help  of  our 
blankets  and  other  things  we  contrived  so  to  break  the 
wind  as  to  enable  us  to  kindle  up  a  fire  sufficient  to  warm 
and  dry  ourselves.  We  then  prepared  the  remainder  of 
our  scanty  food,  which  was  sufficient  for  a  meal  after  re- 
serving a  part  of  it  for  the  woman  and  her  children.  We 
remained  here  through  the  day  and  night,  the  wind  still 
blowing  a  gale.  The  next  morning  very  early,  three  men 
went  in  search  of  provisions,  and  did  not  return  till  three 


1812-1819]  Buttrick's  Voyages  81 

o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  They  had  travelled  all  that  time 
and  found  but  one  house,  where  they  obtained  three  small 
loaves  of  bread,  which  were  enough  for  the  woman  and 
children  only.  The  wind  had  now  ceased  to  blow,  and 
the  lake  was  nearly  smooth;  and  after  feeding  the  chil- 
dren we  put  our  things  on  board,  and  made  up  the  lake 
shore.  At  sunset  judging  ourselves  about  thirty  miles  from 
Detroit,  we  ventured  out  on  the  open  lake  with  our  oars 
only  to  move  us  a-head ;  we  rowed  all  night,  and  at  daylight 
discovered  the  town  of  Maiden 28  about  six  miles  directly 
a-head,  on  the  [52]  Canada  shore;  and  a  little  breeze  spring- 
ing up,  we  hoisted  sail,  and  a  little  after  sunrise  landed 
half  a  mile  below  the  town.  We  went  up,  found  a  market, 
purchased  fresh  beef,  bread,  &c.,  and  had  a  fine  break- 
fast; it  having  been  forty-eight  hours  since  we  had  eaten 
any  thing  before.  We  now  had  eighteen  miles  to  stem  a 
strong  current  with  our  oars  only,  before  reaching  Detroit. 
At  ten  o'clock  we  moved  on,  and  after  having  labored 
hard  till  two  o'clock  in  the  morning,  we  made  up  to  the 
city  of  Detroit,28  and  went  to  a  tavern,  the  landlord  of 
which  had  .formerly  been  an  acquaintance  of  ours.  He, 
by  some  means  or  other,  had  heard  of  our  being  on  the 
lake  in  the  blow  I  have  mentioned;  himself  and  several 
others  manned  a  vessel  and  went  in  pursuit  of  us;  but 
after  making  every  possible  search  in  vain,  he  returned, 
supposing  we  must  have  been  lost;  but  was  most  agree- 
ably surprised  when  he  saw  us  under  his  own  roof. 
I  remained  here  a  few  days,  and  then  embarked  on 

M  Fort  Maiden,  or  Amherstburg,  on  the  Canadian  shore  sixteen  miles  south 
of  Detroit,  was  established  by  the  British  in  1798,  soon  after  they  had  evacuated 
Detroit  in  accordance  with  the  terms  of  Jay's  Treaty.  During  the  War  of  1812- 
15,  it  was  occupied  by  General  Proctor  until  Perry's  naval  victory  (September, 
1813)  compelled  him  to  retreat.  Before  leaving,  he  set  fire  to  the  fort  and  it 
was  not  rebuilt  until  1839. —  ED. 

M  For  the  early  history  of  Detroit,  see  Croghan's  Journals,  vol.  i  of  our 
series,  note  18. —  ED. 


82  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

board  a  vessel,  and  went  down  the  lake  in  search  of  the 
property  I  had  left  in  the  neighborhood  of  Fort  Erie, 
Upper  Canada,  at  the  commencement  of  the  late  war,  as 
I  have  before  mentioned.  I  arrived  at  Buffalo,  and  in- 
quired for  the  two  gentlemen  with  whom  I  had  left  my 
business,  and  found  they  were  both  dead.  I  then  crossed 
over  the  river,  and  went  to  my  old  friend's  house,  and  to 
my  surprise  found  he  was  dead  also.  His  unhappy  widow 
informed  me  that  soon  after  my  departure  he  was  arrested 
by  order  of  the  British  government,  and  committed  to 
prison,  which  was  the  last  account  she  had  of  him;  but 
supposed  that  he  made  his  escape,  and  either  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  Indians,  or  that  in  attempting  to  cross  the  lake 
was  drowned.  The  person  who  last  had  charge  of  my 
property  was  an  American  born,  but  had  become  a  British 
subject ;  he  took  an  active  part  in  the  late  war  against  his 
own  countrymen,  and  still  persisted  in  so  doing;  and 
totally  refused  to  pay  my  demand.  The  persons  with 
whom  I  conversed  on  the  subject,  advised  me  to  let  it 
remain  as  it  was;  observing  that  although  the  two  govern- 
ments were  now  at  peace,  yet  a  personal  envy  still  existed 
between  individuals  of  the  two  nations,  if  not  between  the 
governments;  and  as  [53]  the  Court  of  King's  Bench  was 
now  closing  its  session,  and  would  not  sit  again  until  a 
year  from  that  time,  there  could  be  no  action  tried  for  a 
long  time.  This  discouraged  me  and  I  gave  it  up,  pur- 
chased a  horse,  saddle  and  bridle,  and  returned  by  land 
through  this  Upper  Province  to  Detroit.  On  my  journey 
back  to  Detroit,  I  was  most  sensibly  struck  with  the  devas- 
tations which  had  been  made  by  the  late  war:  beautiful 
farms,  formerly  in  high  cultivation,  now  laid  waste;  houses 
entirely  evacuated  and  forsaken;  provision  of  all  kinds 
very  scarce;  and  where  once  peace  and  plenty  abounded, 
poverty  and  destruction  now  stalked  over  the  land.  I 


1812-1819]  Buttrick's  Voyages  83 

returned  to  Detroit,  where  I  remained  the  most  of  my 
time  till  the  fall  of  eighteen  hundred  and  eighteen;  when 
not  yet  satisfied  with  roving  about,  I  started,  in  November, 
in  company  with  another  man,  for  the  central  part  of 
Ohio.  The  roads  at  this  season  of  the  year  were  very 
bad  through  the  Michigan  Territory,  which  we  were  now 
travelling.  We  passed  over  the  battle  ground  of  French- 
town  and  river  Raison; 80  to  the  river  forty  miles;  thence 
to  Maumee  rapids,  forty  miles;  our  nearest  way  now  to  go 
to  Sandusky  river  was  thirty-five  miles.  On  this  last 
route  we  had  no  road;  the  only  guide  for  the  traveller 
was  marked  trees."  The  first  morning  missed  our  way, 
got  lost  hi  the  wilderness,  and  wandered  about  till  three 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  when  we  came  to  the  old  marked 
trees;  we  walked  on  until  sunset,  when  we  were  obliged  to 
halt;  struck  up  a  fire,  broiled  some  pork,  on  the  end  of  a 
stick,  and  with  some  bread  refreshed  ourselves;  but  with- 
out drink,  as  there  was  no  water  fit  for  use.  We  laid 
ourselves  down  by  the  body  of  an  old  tree,  and  partly  got 
to  sleep,  but  were  aroused  from  our  slumbers  by  the  horrid 
howling  of  a  wolf,  who  had  walked  up  close  to  our  backs. 
My  companion  was  in  great  fear,  and  would  have  run 
had  I  not  stated  to  him  the  danger  of  leaving  the  fire. 
He  stopped,  jumped  up  and  down,  hallooing  with  all  his 
might.  Not  being  much  acquainted  with  these  animals, 
he  considered  his  situation  very  dangerous.  After  some 
time  I  persuaded  him  to  lie  down  again,  but  it  was  not 
long  before  the  sound  redoubled  on  our  ears;  his  fears 
became  greater  than  before,  as  he  found  there  was  no 
retreat.  I  laid  down  myself,  [54]  but  could  not  possibly 
persuade  him  and  he  remained  in  motion,  and  sometimes 

*°  An  account  of  these  battles  is  given  in  Evans's  Tour,  post,  note  63. —  ED. 
S1  Buttrick  was  now  in  the  Black  Swamp;  for  a  description  of  which,  see 
Evans's  Tour,  post. —  ED. 


84  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

with  yells  which  almost  equalled  the  wolves,  through  the 
night.  Early  in  the  morning  we  collected  our  things  and 
moved  on;  about  nine  o'clock  came  to  a  running  stream  of 
water;  this  was  a  delicious  treat  to  us,  although  I  drank 
heartily  several  times  before  I  could  taste  in  the  least,  my 
mouth  had  become  so  exceedingly  dry.  We  now  began 
to  think  we  had  lost  our  way,  but  pursued  on  the  same 
course  till  we  came  to  a  log  house,  where  we  found  a  very 
friendly  man  who  kept  a  house  of  entertainment.  We 
got  some  refreshment,  and  gave  him  an  account  of  our 
travel.  He  said  it  was  a  common  thing  for  travellers  to 
get  lost  on  that  way,  and  informed  us  that  we  had  gained 
but  fifteen  miles.  Just  as  he  was  saying  this,  a  large 
wolf  came  up  close  to  the  door,  but  seeing  us,  ran  furiously 
into  the  woods;  this,  probably,  was  our  visitor  the  last 
night.  On  inquiry  we  found  the  distance  to  the  next 
house  seventeen  miles.  At  eleven  o'clock  we  started, 
determined  to  see  the  end  of  the  woods  that  day;  and 
after  blundering  over  stumps  and  rocks,  and  through 
mud  till  ten  o'clock  at  night,  we  arrived  at  the  village  of 
Lower  Sandusky.  Here  I  left  my  fellow-traveller,  and 
travelled  on  to  the  town  of  Grenville.32  I  tarried  there 
till  Spring,  and  from  thence  went  to  a  village  called  Port- 
land, on  Lower  Sandusky  bay,  where  I  arrived  in  April, 
1819,  fully  satisfied  with  roving.88 

Here  I  found  a  pleasant  village  containing  about  twenty- 
five  houses,  besides  two  taverns,  three  large  stores  and 
store-houses,  and  three  wharves  of  a  considerable  length; 

31  General  Wayne  built  a  fort  at  Greenville,  seventy  miles  north  of  Cincin- 
nati, in  December,  1793,  and  marched  thence  against  the  Indians.  He  made 
it  his  headquarters  after  the  victory  at  Fallen  Timbers,  and  there  (August, 
1795),  the  treaty  of  peace  was  signed.  The  village  was  laid  out  in  1808. —  ED. 

83  Portland,  falling  within  the  Connecticut  "firelands,"  was  laid  out  by  Zal- 
mon  Wildman  of  Danbury,  Connecticut,  in  1816,  in  the  centre  of  his  tract. 
A  few  years  later  the  plat  was  enlarged  and  the  name  changed  to  Sandusky 
City. —  ED. 


1812-1819]  ButtricVs  Voyages  85 

the  water  being  of  a  sufficient  depth  for  vessels  to  come  up 
and  discharge  their  cargoes.  The  steamboat  stops  here  on 
her  passage,  and  leaves  many  passengers,  taking  in  others, 
&c.  The  land  in  and  about  this  village  is  owned  by  two 
men  from  Connecticut,  who  calculated,  probably,  on  a 
large  town  or  city,  but  it  has  not  answered  their  expecta- 
tions, people  finding  the  place  very  unhealthy,  owing  to 
the  badness  of  the  water.  The  unhealthiness  of  the 
place,  however,  continues  only  from  about  the  middle  of 
July  through  the  fall  months;  the  remaining  part  of  the 
year  is  considered  healthy.  In  the  month  of  March, 
wishing  to  go  on  to  Cunningham's  [55]  Island84  with  an- 
other man,  we  took  a  canoe,  and  getting  three  others  to 
assist  us,  we  made  a  rope  fast  to  the  bow  of  the  canoe, 
and  drew  it  across  the  bay  two  miles,  which  was  frozen 
over,  to  the  lake  which  was  not  frozen.  When  we  were 
about  half  way  across,  one  man  on  one  side  of  the  canoe 
and  myself  on  the  other,  both  fell  in,  the  ice  breaking  under 
us;  but  being  one  on  each  side,  we  balanced  the  canoe 
and  kept  our  heads  out  of  water  until  the  other  men  broke 
the  thin  ice  and  drew  the  canoe  partly  up  on  to  that  which 
was  solid,  and  we  crawled  up,  and  thus  escaped  a  watery 
grave.  We  then  went  on,  and  reached  the  other  shore. 
It  being  late  in  the  afternoon,  our  friends  left  us  and  re- 
turned. The  beach  here  was  clear  of  snow  and  ice.  We 
turned  our  boat  up  on  one  side  so  that  it  might  make  a 
partial  shelter  for  us  during  the  night,  and  built  a  fire  in 
front.  We  then  walked  across  the  neck  of  land  to  the 
other  side,  saw  the  lake  clear  of  ice  except  a  few  floating 
pieces.  Our  object  in  crossing  the  bay  that  afternoon 

**  This  island,  twelve  miles  northwest  of  Sandusky  City,  owed  its  first  name 
to  a  French  Indian  trader  called  Cunningham,  who  lived  there  from  1808  to  1812. 
It  contained  few  inhabitants  —  only  six  acres  having  been  cleared  —  when  in 
1833  t*16  greater  part  of  it  was  purchased  by  Datus  and  Irad  Kelley.  In  1840 
the  name  was  by  legislative  enactment  changed  to  Kelley's  Island. —  ED. 


86  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

was,  that  we  might  be  ready  to  start  on  the  lake  early  in 
the  morning,  when  there  is  generally  but  little  wind,  it 
being  then  easier  and  safer,  the  water  being  smooth.  We 
then  returned  back  to  our  boat,  rekindled  our  fire,  took 
our  supper,  dried  my  clothes  as  well  as  I  could,  and 
camped  for  the  night.  But  soon  the  wind  began  to  blow, 
and  the  snow  fell  very  fast;  within  two  hours  it  blew  a 
heavy  gale;  our  fire  was  blown  away,  the  boat  fell  over, 
and  our  only  course  was  to  run  back  and  forth  upon  the 
beach  to  prevent  our  perishing  in  the  storm,  which  some- 
times appeared  impossible  for  me  to  do.  At  length,  to  our 
great  joy,  the  morning  came,  the  wind  ceased,  and  the 
snow  abated.  The  ice,  which  we  crossed  in  the  after- 
noon, was  broken  up  and  driven  into  heaps,  with  the  addi- 
tion of  what  had  driven  from  the  lake,  and  all  up  and 
down  the  lake  shore  presented  the  same  dreary  appear- 
ance. We  were  now  hemmed  in  on  all  sides,  and  it  was 
impossible  to  cross  either  with  a  boat  or  on  foot,  and  our 
only  resource  was,  to  prepare  a  camp  in  the  woods,  which 
we  did  by  cutting  down  trees  and  bushes,  sticking  the 
ends  into  the  ground  which  was  not  frozen,  and  forming 
the  tops  together  over  our  heads.  We  thus  made  us  a 
comfortable  cabin,  built  a  large  fire,  ate  our  [56]  break- 
fast, and  dried  our  clothes.  We  here  remained  seven 
days,  when  all  our  provision  had  become  exhausted,  ex- 
cept some  dry  beans;  these  boiled  in  water  were  made  to 
supply  the  place  of  every  other  necessary;  and  although 
we  were  compelled  to  acknowledge  the  flavor  was  not 
quite  so  good,  yet  we  were  thankful  that  we  had  this 
means  of  preserving  ourselves  from  complete  starvation. 
We  were  now  in  sight  of  the  village,  and  kept  a  large 
fire  burning  in  the  night  to  satisfy  the  people  that  we  were 
alive.  During  the  day  we  were  constantly  watching  for 
the  separation  of  the  ice,  so  that  we  might  pass;  and  on 


1812-1819]  Buttrick's  Voyages  87 

the  seventh  day,  in  the  afternoon,  we  thought  we  might 
accomplish  our  retreat.  Accordingly  we  put  our  boat 
into  the  water,  and  our  things  on  board,  and  with  a  pole 
pushing  the  ice  from  the  boat,  we  made  our  way  along 
for  some  distance,  when  we  saw  a  boat  coming  in  the 
same  manner  to  meet  us.  Coming  up  with  her,  found  it 
to  be  the  same  men  who  crossed  the  bay  with  us  on  the 
ice,  and  who  had  come  to  relieve  us.  They  turned  their 
boat  about,  and  we  all  arrived  safely  home  the  same  even- 
ing without  accomplishing  our  visit  to  Cunningham's 
Island. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  village  remained  very  healthy 
until  July,  when  a  new  complaint  of  the  eyes  became  epi- 
demic among  them.  It  attacked  all  ages  and  sexes  with- 
out distinction,  and,  with  some,  would,  in  a  few  days, 
cause  total  blindness. 

This  complaint  is,  I  believe,  what  physicians  call  the 
Egyptian  Opthalmia."  Some,  who  were  very  prompt  in 
their  applications,  were  fortunate  enough  to  recover  their 
sight  after  a  considerable  time;  and  others,  not  made 
wholly  blind,  never  saw  so  well  as  before.  Many  of  the 
inhabitants  were  attacked  with  fever  and  ague,  and  these 
generally  escaped  the  more  formidable  disease  of  the 
eyes. 

As  for  myself,  I  remained  perfectly  well  until  Novem- 
ber, when,  one  morning,  my  right  eye  was  attacked  with 
inflammation  and  swelling;  and  the  next  morning  my  left 
eye  was  attacked  in  the  same  manner.  The  inflammation 
gradually  increased,  so  that  hi  about  three  weeks  I  was 
totally  blind.  My  surgeon,  a  very  skilful  man,  made 
every  exertion  for  my  recovery,  and  about  the  middle  [57] 
of  December  I  could  discern  light;  and  in  ten  or  twelve 
days  after,  could  distinguish  colors.  My  surgeon  now 

n  It  is  an  inflammation  of  the  conjunctiva,  with  a'purulent  discharge. —  ED. 


88  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

being  called  into  another  section  of  the  country,  was 
absent  about  three  weeks,  when,  from  the  want  of  proper 
assistance,  I  grew  worse,  and  was  again  in  total  darkness. 
On  his  return,  using  every  means  in  his  power,  I  was  so 
far  restored  in  a  few  weeks  as  to  be  able  to  discern  light ; 
and  continuing  very  slowly  to  gain  until  the  first  of  April. 
I  could  then  see  to  distinguish  capital  letters. 

A  neighboring  physician  then  calling  in,  advised  my  old 
surgeon  to  make  a  new  application,  which  he  did,  and  to 
the  expense  of  the  total  loss  of  my  sight.  I  now  almost 
gave  up  all  hopes  of  recovery;  but  not  willing  wholly  to 
despair,  attempts  were  once  more  made;  and  by  the 
middle  of  August  I  could  once  more  discern  colors.  Hear- 
ing much  said  of  the  eye  infirmary  in  the  city  of  New 
York,  I  resolved  to  visit  that  place;  and  on  the  thirteenth 
of  August,  1821,  went  on  board  a  steamboat,  proceeded 
down  the  lake  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  to  Buffalo ; 
thence  in  a  waggon  one  hundred  and  six  miles  to  Geneva;8' 
then  went  on  board  a  boat  down  the  Seneca  Lake, 
crossed  the  Cayuga  Lake  into  the  Erie  canal,87  thence  to 
Utica,  where  I  took  the  stage  for  Albany.  After  travel- 
ling about  forty-five  miles,  was  attacked  with  fever  and 


w  Geneva  was  originally  the  site  of  a  populous  Seneca  village.  Lying  within 
the  Phelps  and  Gorham  Purchase,  it  was  surveyed  by  them  in  1789;  settlement 
began  immediately,  the  village  containing  fifteen  houses  in  1791.  In  1797  a 
newspaper,  Ontario  Gazette  and  Genesee  Advertiser,  was  established.  Geneva 
was  incorporated,  June,  1812. —  ED. 

87  The  Erie  Canal  was  constructed  in  three  sections;  the  middle  section, 
extending  from  Seneca  River  to  Utica,  being  completed  by  1820.  The  history 
of  the  construction  of  this  canal  is  most  interesting.  As  early  as  1808  the  legis- 
lature ordered  a  survey  of  a  feasible  route.  Two 'years  later  a  board  of  canal 
commissioners  was  established.  Unsuccessful  in  appealing  to  the  national 
government  for  aid,  DeWitt  Clinton  presented  an  elaborate  memorial  to  the 
legislature  (1816),  signed  also  by  the  other  commissioners.  The  bill  authoriz- 
ing its  construction  was  passed  in  April,  1817,  and  work  was  begun  at  Rome 
on  July  4  following.  It  was  completed  in  1825  and  opened  with  much  cere- 
mony.—  ED. 


1812-1819]  Buttrick's  Voyages  89 

ague,  and  was  obliged  to  stop  three  days;  then  went  on 
board  a  boat  down  the  Mohawk  river  to  Schenectady," 
then  in  a  waggon  to  Albany,  where  I  tarried  three  weeks, 
and  then  went  on  board  a  packet  to  New  York,  where  I 
arrived  the  first  day  of  October.  I  stayed  here  five  days, 
called  at  the  infirmary  several  times,  and  conversed  with 
different  patients  who  had  been  there  for  a  considerable 
time;  they  discouraged  me  by  saying  they  had  found 
little  or  no  relief,  and  thought  there  were  no  hopes  for 
me;  at  the  same  time  adding,  that  if  I  would  go  to  Boston, 
I  might  do  much  better.  I  considered  the  thing  well, 
took  their  advice,  was  assisted  out  on  the  turnpike,  where 
on  foot  and  alone  I  proceeded  on  through  New  Haven, 
Hartford  and  Worcester,  and  without  difficulty  found  the 
way  to  Concord,  Massachusetts,  where  I  arrived  on  the 
twentieth  of  October,  after  an  absence  of  six  years.  Some 
time  after  [58]  this  I  applied  to  several  of  the  most  emi- 
nent physicians  and  surgeons  in  Boston,  and  finally  went 
into  the  General  Hospital  in  that  place,  where  I  underwent 
various  medical  and  surgical  treatment  to  no  effect;  and 
giving  up  all  hope  of  ever  enjoying  that  light  which  the 
benevolent  Creator  has  ordained  for  the  happiness  and 
comfort  of  man,  I  have  hitherto  spent  my  time  comfort- 
ably, destitute  of  property,  in  the  company  and  society  of 
my  friends. 

"Here  was  at  one  time  an  important  Mohawk  village,  the  capital  of  the 
Five  Nations.  In  1662  Van  Curler  and  certain  other  Dutchmen  inTAlbany  and 
Renselaerswyck  bought  the  land  from  the  Mohawk  and  founded  the  present 
city  of  Schenectady.  Being  a  frontier  town,  it  suffered  severely  in  the  early 
Indian  wars,  and  in  February,  1690,  a  general  massacre  of  the  inhabitants 
occurred. —  ED. 


EVANS'S  PEDESTRIOUS  TOUR  OP  FOUR  THOUSAND 
MILES  — 1818 


Reprint  of  the  original  edition:     Concord,  New  Hampshire,  1819 


A 

PEDESTRIOUS  TOUR, 

01 

FOUR  THOUSAND  MILES, 

THROUGH 

THE  WESTERN  STATES  AND  TERRITORIES, 


THE  WINTER  AND  SPRING  OP 

1813, 

tMERSPERStD 

WITH  BRIEF  REFLECTIONS  UPON  A  GREAT  VA- 
RIETY OF  TOPICS  : 

JtELIQIOUS,  MORAL,  POLITICAL,  SEJV- 
TIMEJYTAL,  $c.  $o. 

BY  ESTWICIC  EVANS, 


'The  blast  of  (he  north  is  on  the  pjain .;— 4he  (ravellet 
chriiiks  iu  the  midst  of  liis  journey." 


CONCORD :  tf.  II. 

PRINTED  BY  JOSEPH  C.  SPEAR. 

1319. 


DISTRICT  OF  NEW-HAMPSHIRE,  TO  WIT: 

BE  IT  REMEMBERED,  That  on  the  loth  day  of 
December,  1818,  and  in  the  forty-third  year  of  the  Inde- 
pendence of  the  United  States  of  America,  ESTWICK 
EVANS,  of  the  said  District,  has  deposited  in  this  Office 
the  title  of  a  Book,  the  right  whereof  he  claims  as  Author, 
in  the  words  following,  TO  WIT: 

"A  Pedestrious  Tour  of  Four  Thousand  miles,  through 
the  western  States  and  Territories,  during  the  winter  and 
spring  of  1818;  interspersed  with  brief  reflections  upon  a 
great  variety  of  topics:  religious,  moral,  political,  senti- 
mental, &c.  &c.  By  ESTWICK  EVANS. 

"The  blast  of  the  north  is  on  the  plain;  the  traveller 
shrinks  in  the  midst  of  his  journey." 

In  conformity  to  an  act  of  the  Congress  of  the  United 
States,  entitled,  "An  Act  for  the  encouragement  of  learn- 
ing, by  securing  the  copies  of  Maps,  Charts,  and  Books, 
to  the  Authors  and  Proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the 
tunes  therein  mentioned:  and  also  to  an  act  entitled  "An 
Act  supplementary  to  An  Act,  entitled  an  act  for  the  en- 
couragement of  learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  Maps, 
Charts,  and  Books,  to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of  such 
copies  during  the  times  therein  mentioned ;  and  extending 
the  benefits  thereof  to  the  Arts  of  Designing,  Engraving, 
and  Etching  Historical  and  other  Prints. 

PEYTON  R.  FREEMAN, 
Clerk,  of  the  District  of  New-Hampshire. 


DISTRICT  OF  NEW-HAMPSHIRE,   TO  WIT: 

BE  IT  REMEMBERED,  That  on  the  i8th  day  of 
January,  1819,  and  in  the  forty-third  year  of  the  Inde- 
pendence of  the  United  States  of  America,  ESTWICK 
EVANS,  of  the  said  District,  hath  deposited  in  this  Office 
the  title  of  a  Book,  the  right  whereof  he  claims  as  Author, 
in  the  words  following,  TO  WIT: 

11 A  Pedestrious  Tour  of  Four  Thousand  miles,  through 
the  western  States  and  Territories,  during  the  whiter 
and  spring  of  1818;  interspersed  with  brief  reflections 
upon  a  great  variety  of  topics:  religious,  moral,  political, 
sentimental,  &c.  &c.  By  ESTWICK  EVANS. 

"The  blast  of  the  north  is  on  the  plain;  the  traveller 
shrinks  in  the  midst  of  his  journey." 

In  conformity  to  the  act  of  the  Congress  of  the  United 
States,  entitled,  "An  Act  for  the  encouragement  of  learn- 
ing, by  securing  the  copies  of  Maps,  Charts,  and  Books, 
to  the  Authors  and  Proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the 
times  therein  mentioned. 

PEYTON  R.  FREEMAN, 
Clerk,  of  the  District  of  New-Hampshire. 
A  true  copy  of  Record, 

Attest,          PEYTON  R.  FREEMAN,  Clerk. 


The  author  is  sensible  that  there  are  some  typographical 
and  other  errors  in  the  following  work;  but  as  they  will  be 
found  few  and  inconsiderable,  it  is  not  deemed  worth  while 
to  notice  them. 


PREFACE 

AN  author,  however  inconsiderable  he  may  be,  always 
feels  that  he  has  something  to  say  to  the  public  concern- 
ing his  work;  he  must,  therefore,  have  a  preface.  I  think, 
however,  that  such  a  course  is  seldom  necessary;  the 
world,  after  all  which  the  writer  can  express,  will  judge 
impartially  of  his  motives,  and  of  the  execution  of  his 
plan.  —  My  introduction  will  be  very  brief. 

In  justice  to  myself  I  ought  to  observe,  that  until  after 
finishing  my  tour,  I  did  not  entertain  the  least  idea  of 
publishing  an  account  of  it;  and  that  I  have  been  induced 
to  take  this  step  by  the  request  of  many  of  my  fellow-cit- 
izens. 

It  will  be  readily  perceived,  that  a  work  of  this  kind  does 
not  admit  of  the  display  of  much  reasoning  or  erudition; 
and  I  shall  speak  as  little  of  myself  as  will  be  consistent 
with  the  nature  of  the  publication.  This  little  volume 
cannot  possibly  merit  much  praise;  and  I  trust  that  it 
will  escape  unqualified  censure. 

PORTSMOUTH,  N.  H.  1818. 


TOUR 

THE  supposed  singularity  of  the  tour,  an  account  of 
which  I  am  about  to  write,  suggests  a  few  preliminary 
observations. 

Customs  and  manners  often  produce  more  influence 
than  principle.  Whilst  the  former  are  strictly  adhered  to, 
the  latter  is  often  violated.  Here  we  see  the  comparative 
influence  of  self-reproach  and  the  reproach  of  the  world: 
a  deviation  from  custom,  in  relation  to  modes  of  living 
and  acting,  may  excite  animadversion.  We  shrink  from 
the  unfriendly  gaze  of  the  multitude ;  and  tremble  even  at 
the  undeserved  censure  of  the  superficial  and  ill-natured: 
—  at  the  same  time  we  disregard  the  condemnation  of 
our  own  hearts,  and  endeavour  to  cancel  the  obligations 
of  morality  by  the  good,  yet  false,  opinion  of  the  world. 

But  it  is  readily  acknowledged,  that  unless  excentricity 
ought  always  to  be  avoided;  it  invariably  proceeds  from 
error  in  taste,  from  uncontrouled  feeling,  or  from  mental 
imbecility.  The  dispositions  and  powers  of  men,  however, 
are  various;  and  the  beaten  track  is  not  always  the  field 
for  improvement. 

Civil  society  is  not  without  its  disadvantages.  Whilst 
it  adds  to  the  information,  and  polishes  the  manners  of 
man,  it  lessens  the  vigour  of  his  mind  and  the  generosity 
of  his  heart.  He  no  longer  experiences  the  sublime  inspir- 
ations of  Nature.  A  creature  of  habit  and  the  slave  of 
form,  she  will  not  [6]  deign  to  visit  him.  From  the  fac- 
titious grandeur  of  cities,  she  wings  her  eagle  flight,  to 
communicate  to  the  uncontaminated  children  of  her 
forests  her  instruction  and  blessing. 


102  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

In  the  savage  state  there  is,  no  doubt,  much  individual 
depravity;  as  great  a  degree  of  it,  however,  may  be  found 
in  the  most  civilized  communities.  But  in  the  latter  are 
never  witnessed  that  nobleness  of  spirit,  that  eloquence  of 
thought,  that  force  of  expression,  and  that  wonderful 
aspect  which  the  former  affords. 

It  is  true,  that  the  aggregate  advantages  of  civil  society 
are  much  greater  than  those  of  a  state  of  nature;  and  how 
happy  should  we  be  if  we  could  ingraft  the  instruction,  and 
impress  the  polish  of  civilization  upon  the  lofty  virtues  of 
untutored  life.  But,  with  us,  courage  gives  place  to  cow- 
ardice; and  the  native  disinterestedness  of  man,  the  source 
of  his  greatest  virtues  and  highest  happiness,  yields  to  the 
calculations  of  meanness  and  fraud.  Even  in  public  life 
we  please  ourselves  with  the  tinsel  of  narrow  views,  whilst 
we  disregard  those  great  principles  of  national  policy 
which  alone  can  render  us  truly  great. 

I  have  often  been  questioned  as  to  the  objects  of  my 
tour;  and  I  am  willing  to  gratify  a  reasonable  and  friendly 
curiosity.  My  views  were  various.  Besides  the  ordinary 
advantages  of  travel,  and  of  becoming  acquainted  with  a 
country  comparatively  but  little  known,  I  wished  to  ac- 
quire the  simplicity,  native  feelings,  and  virtues  of  savage 
life;  to  divest  myself  of  the  factitious  habits,  prejudices 
and  imperfections  of  civilization;  to  become  a  citizen  of 
the  world;  and  to  find,  amidst  the  solitude  and  grandeur 
of  the  western  wilds,  more  correct  views  of  human  nature 
and  of  the  true  interests  of  man.  The  season  of  snows 
was  preferred,  that  I  might  experience  the  pleasure  of 
suffering,  and  the  novelty  of  danger.  [7]  On  the  second  of 
February,  1818, 1  left  the  residence  of  my  friends,  in  Hop- 
kinton,  New-Hampshire,  prepared,  according  to  the  fron- 
tispiece, to  meet  the  inclemency  of  the  season,  the  hostili- 
ties either  of  man  or  beast,  and  also  to  provide  myself,  in 
the  way  of  game,  with  provisions. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  103 

It  may  gratify  some  to  know  the  particulars  of  my 
habiliament :  Mine  was  a  close  dress  consisting  of  buffalo 
skins.  On  my  shoulders  were  epaulettes  made  of  the  long 
hair  of  the  animal;  and  they  were  for  the  purpose  of 
shielding  the  shoulder  from  rain.  Around  my  neck  and 
under  one  arm  was  strapped  a  double  leather  case,  with 
brass  chargers,  for  shot  and  ball;  and  under  the  other 
arm  a  case  for  powder  strapped  in  the  same  way,  and  also 
having  a  brass  charger.  Around  the  waist  was  a  belt,  with 
a  brace  of  pistols,  a  dirk,  two  side  cases  for  pistol  balls, 
and  a  case  for  moulds  and  screw.  Also  around  the  waist 
was  buckled  an  Indian  apron,  which  fell  behind:  it  was 
about  eighteen  inches  square,  covered  with  fine  bear  skin, 
trimmed  with  fur,  and  having  over  the  lower  part  of  it  a 
net  for  game.  This  apron  contained  a  pocket-compass, 
maps,  journal,  shaving  materials,  a  small  hatchet,  patent 
fire  works,  &c.  My  cap  and  gloves  were  made  of  fur, 
my  moccasons  were  of  deer-skin,  and  on  my  shoulder  I 
carried  a  six-feet  rifle.  The  partners  of  my  toils  and 
dangers  were  two  faithful  dogs. 

In  this  situation  I  arrived  at  Detroit  on  the  aoth  of 
March.  My  dogs,  however,  were  destroyed  by  wolves, 
on  the  night  of  the  tenth  of  that  month,  hi  the  vicinity  of 
the  Miami  Swamp. 

I  had,  in  my  juvenile  days,  voluntarily  accustomed  my- 
self to  fatigues,  hardships,  and  privations  of  every  kind; 
but  not  having  recently  exercised  much,  the  snow  being 
deep,  and  my  dress  and  baggage  heavy,  my  fatigue,  in  the 
early  stages  of  my  tour,  [8]  was  excessive:  My  first  day's 
travel  was  only  eight  miles.  In  a  short  time,  however, 
my  daily  progress  was  from  fifteen  to  twenty  miles,  through 
trackless  snows  and  over  tremendous  mountains.  The 
universal  curiosity  which  my  appearance  excited  was  op- 
pressive; but  I  had  fortified  my  mind  by  reflection,  and 
endeavoured  to  present  to  all  an  aspect  at  once  grave  and 


104  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

mild.  In  the  course  of  my  tour,  I  met,  as  might  have 
been  expected,  a  great  variety  of  character;  from  the  sav- 
age of  the  wood  to  the  savage  of  civil  life;  and  I  some- 
times found  it  necessary  to  appeal  to  my  arms,  for  the 
defence  of  the  privileges  of  the  traveller  and  the  rights  of 
the  man. 

My  title  page  promises  reflections  upon  various  sub- 
jects. I  hope  they  will  neither  be  too  frequent  nor  too 
lengthy.  The  study  of  man,  both  as  it  respects  the  ab- 
stract principles  of  his  nature  and  the  almost  infinite 
variety  of  modes  hi  which  these  principles,  through  the 
influences  of  education  and  customs,  develope  themselves, 
should  be  one  great  object  of  the  traveller.  In  order 
to  become  well  acquainted  with  these  principles,  he  must 
frequently  and  maturely  examine  his  own  heart.  Here 
alone  can  he  ascertain  the  secret  springs  of  action;  here 
alone  can  he  define  and  classify  the  passions;  and  lastly, 
here  alone  can  he  find  the  means  of  their  controul,  or  of 
giving  to  them  a  proper  direction.  Much  information, 
in  relation  to  this  subject,  may  be  collected  from  books, 
and  much  by  travel;  but  he  who  is  ignorant  of  his  own 
heart  must  be  ignorant  of  human  nature. 

In  my  way  to  the  interior  I  passed  through  Amherst;1 
and  reached  this  place  towards  evening,  during  a  heavy 
fall  of  snow.  I  had  been  anticipating  the  pleasure  of 
visiting  the  family  of  Judge  C.  who  reside  there;  but  the 
ladies  of  the  family,  supposing  me  to  be  an  indian,  barred 
the  doors  against  me.  I  [9]  soon,  however,  obtained  a 
herald,  and  then  the  castle  gates  were  elegantly  thrown 
open.  On  account  of  this  little  adventure,  which  arose 

1  Amherst,  on  the  Souhegan  River,  twenty-eight  miles  south  of  Concord,  is 
situated  on  the  tract  of  land  granted  by  the  general  court  of  Massachusetts 
(1733),  to  the  families  of  soldiers  who  had  served  in  King  Philip's  War  (1674- 
76).  It  was  incorporated  in  1760,  and  named  in  honor  of  Lord  Jeffrey  Amherst, 
at  that  time  commander  general  in  America. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  105 

principally  from  the  lateness  of  the  afternoon  and  from  my 
being  covered  with  snow,  some  captious  scribblers  took 
the  liberty,  in  the  papers  of  the  day,  to  be  impudent. 
Could  I  condescend  to  be  offended  with  them,  I  should 
here  tender  my  forgiveness. 

For  the  above  anecdote  I  am  indebted,  principally,  to 
the  interesting  Miss  L*******,  whose  vivid  imagination, 
aided  by  the  story  of  the  giants,  magically  converted  her 
habitation  into  an  embattled  tower,  and  gave  to  a  harm- 
less knight  a  consequence  which  he  did  not  deserve. 

Amherst  is  a  considerable  inland  town.  The  plain 
upon  which  the  village  is  situated  is  very  spacious;  and 
some  of  its  buildings  are  large  and  elegant. 

From  this  place  I  proceeded  to  Milford,3  the  residence 
of  my  friend  P.  whose  love  of  principle,  independence  of 
character,  and  talents,  entitle  him  to  much  consideration. 
With  him  I  passed  some  pleasant  hours.  The  appear- 
ance of  this  town  is  pleasant.  The  contrast  between  its 
extensive  intervales,  and  the  rise  of  ground  upon  which  its 
bridge,  manufactories,  and  village  are  situated,  renders  its 
aspect  quite  interesting. 

The  distance  between  Amherst  and  Milford  is  only  a  few 
miles;  but  in  travelling  from  the  former  to  the  latter  I 
found  the  snow  deep  and  stiffened  by  rain,  and  the  road 
trackless. 

The  next  day  I  began  to  ascend  the  mountains 
of  New-Hampshire: — my  native  hills! — Oh,  may  they 
be  the  everlasting  abode  of  Liberty!  The  weather  here 
was  variable,  the  snow  in  some  drifts  ten  feet  deep, 
my  fatigue  extreme,  and  my  health  impaired.  The  towns 

1  Milford  is  on  the  Souhegan,  five  miles  southwest  of  Amherst.  It  is  located 
partly  on  the  Amherst  Grant,  partly  on  the  Duxbury  School  Farm  (land  granted 
to  Duxbury  by  the  general  court  of  Massachusetts  to  aid  in  establishing  schools). 
Settlement  was  begun  about  1750,  and  the  town  was  incorporated  in  January, 
1794.— ED. 


io6  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

of  Milton  and  Temple,8  [10]  situated  in  this  part  of  the 
country,  are  pleasant ;  and  the  scenery  about  them  highly 
picturesque.  Several  branches  of  the  Sowhegan  in  the 
former,  and  the  streams  which  pass  into  this  river  from  the 
westerly  part  of  the  latter,  add  much  to  the  variety  and 
beauty  of  the  prospect. 

The  next  evening  I  found  myself  in  Marlborough.  The 
weather  had  become  severe,  and  my  ability  to  travel 
without  fatigue  was  increasing.  The  mountainous  aspect 
of  the  country,  the  front  of  my  cap,  &c.  whitened  by  frost, 
and  the  creaking  of  the  snow  beneath  my  step,  reminded 
me  of  Wallace  and  Tell;  those  champions  of  freedom, 
whose  physical  nature  was  as  rugged  as  the  rocks  which 
they  inhabited,  and  whose  hearts,  at  the  same  time,  could 
glow  with  generosity,  or  soften  with  compassion.  The 
Grand  Monadnock  here  attracted  particular  attention.  It 
is  more  than  two  thousand  feet  in  height,  and  is  remarkable 
for  its  cave  and  its  fossils.  Peterborough  and  Dublin,  the 
towns  between  Temple  and  Marlborough,  are  interest- 
ingly situated.  The  former  is  very  mountainous,  and  its 
numerous  brooks  render  it  a  fine  grazing  township.  A 
principal  branch  of  the  Contoocook  passes  near  the  centre 
of  the  town,  and  here  unites  with  Goose  river  flowing  from 
Dublin.  The  latter  place  is  exceedingly  well  watered,  and 
its  two  villages,  together  with  some  scattered  houses,  make 
a  pleasant  appearance. 

The  coldness  of  the  weather  continued  to  increase.  I 
passed  on  through  Keene4  and  Chesterfield.  The  ap- 

3  Milton  is  a  misprint  for  Wilton,  a  town  on  the  Souhegan,  nine  miles  west 
of  Amherst. 

Temple  is  three  miles  west  of  Wilton. —  ED. 

4  Keene,  fifty-five  miles  southwest  of  Concord,  has  become  one  of  the  most 
important  manufacturing  cities  in  New  Hampshire.     It  was  first  settled  in 
1734;  but  Indian  attacks  becoming  frequent,  was  abandoned  from  1747  to  1753. 

Marlborough,  five  miles  southeast  of  Keene,  is  part  of  a  grant  made  by 
Massachusetts  (1751),  to  Timothy  Dwight  and  sixty-one  associates. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  107 

pearance  of  the  former  excited  much  interest.  It  is 
almost  an  inland  city;  and  promises  to  make  a  very  con- 
spicuous figure.  It  is  also,  evidently,  a  place  of  much 
business;  and  from  the  appearance  of  some  of  its  build- 
ings, together  with  what  little  knowledge  I  possess  of  its 
society,  I  should  suppose  [i  i]  it  a  place  of  considerable 
polish  and  refinement.  Chesterfield  too  is  a  very  pretty 
town.  The  undulatory  aspect  of  its  hills,  the  quiet  of  its 
vales,  and  the  neatness  of  its  village  made  a  very  pleas- 
ant impression  upon  my  mind. 

Soon  after  leaving  Keene  I  passed  over  high  and  steep 
hills.  Some  of  them  were,  apparently,  several  miles  in 
length.  In  one  of  the  vallies  of  these  mountains  an  amus- 
ing incident  occurred.  It  is  a  trifle,  and  may  be  thought 
not  worth  mentioning;  I  feel  a  pleasure,  however,  in  doing 
justice  to  good  nature:  I  met  three  six  feet  fellows  in  a 
single  sleigh.  They  were,  probably,  going  to  Keene  in 
their  best.  There  had  fallen,  the  night  before,  a  light 
snow  of  a  few  inches;  and  their  horse,  not  fancying  my 
appearance,  took  it  into  his  head,  notwithstanding  I  gave 
him  the  whole  road,  to  sheer  against  the  wall,  and  to  turn 
all  these  well-looking  grenadiers  into  the  snow.  I  was  pre- 
paring to  make  an  apology;  but  it  was  unnecessary:  the 
good  nature  of  these  liberal  men  furnished  for  them  and 
myself  a  hearty  laugh. 

During  the  following  day  I  passed  Connecticut  river; 
and  entering  Brattleborough,  Vermont,  proceeded  to  the 
further  part  of  the  adjoining  town.5  The  appearance  of 
the  country  just  before  my  crossing  the  Connecticut,  was 
truly  interesting.  My  course  was  around  a  mountain 
about  half  way  between  its  summit  and  the  river  below. 

1  Fort  Dummer  was  erected  on  the  present  site  of  Brattleborough  as  early 
as  1724.  The  land  in  that  region  was  granted  by  George  II  (1753)  to  certain 
men  of  Massachusetts,  among  them  William  Brattle,  after  whom  the  town  was 
named. —  ED. 


io8  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

It  was  the  sabbath  day;  and  the  mildness  of  the  Christian 
religion  seemed  to  breathe  around.  The  rays  of  the  sun, 
with  a  kind  of  vivid  obscurity,  darted  through  the  wood; 
and  the  solemn,  yet  cheerful,  gospel  bell  of  a  neighbouring 
villa  spake  of  the  pure  and  peaceful  communion  of  saints. 
Even  the  game  seemed  to  know  it  was  the  sabbath,  and 
did  not  shun  my  path.  Perhaps  it  was  wrong  in  me  thus 
to  travel.  I  had  [12]  never  done  so  before.  My  situation, 
however,  was  peculiar,  and  I  endeavored  to  confine  my 
thoughts  to  the  appropriate  views  of  this  holy  season. 

I  am  now  upon  the  borders  of  my  own  peculiar  country. 
A  single  step  carries  me  from  New  Hampshire;  and  when 
I  shall  again  behold  her  pleasant  hills  is  uncertain  — 
Perhaps  never ! 

The  term  banishment  is,  in  this  part  of  the  world,  sel- 
dom employed ;  and  its  introduction  here  may  appear  un- 
meaning. But  those  who  have  been  exiled  by  their  coun- 
try, by  misfortune,  or  by  themselves,  will  hear  the  word 
with  a  glow  of  interest,  and  find,  in  their  own  hearts,  its 
true  and  ready  definition.  Is  there  no  exile  beyond  the 
limits  of  our  land  ? —  no  spirit  which  sighs  for  the  scenes 
of  childhood?  —  where  the  light  of  Heaven  was  first 
beheld,  and  the  impression  of  thought  first  created  ?  — 
where  friendship  first  warmed,  and  love  etherialized,  and 
patriotism  fired  ?  Oh !  if  prayer  is  heard  on  High,  it  must 
be  the  exile's  prayer. 

The  tears  of  patriotism  need  no  apology.  The  name  of 
New-Hampshire  is  identified  with  that  of  freedom.  Her 
mountains  were  never  intended  for  slavery;  and  tyrants, 
I  know,  could  not  exist  in  the  presence  of  her  people. 
Were  she  just  to  herself,  she  would  always  excite  fear  in 
her  enemies  and  admiration  in  her  friends.  Her  institu- 
tions are  dictated  by  the  spirit  of  self-government,  and 
her  will  is  the  supreme  law  of  the  land.  Her  citizens  are 


i8i8]  -Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  109 

hardy,  intelligent  and  virtuous;  her  climate  is  salubrious 
and  her  soil  fertile;  her  hills  are  covered  with  cattle,  and 
her  vallies  wave  with  grain.  Industry,  economy,  and 
mechanical  genius  are  conspicuous  characteristics  of  her 
people;  and  a  thousand  streams,  intersecting  the  whole 
country,  tender  to  the  manufacturing  interest  their  pow- 
erful agencies.  In  point  of  hospitality  too  she  [13]  is  second 
to  none;  and  the  virtue,  benevolence,  and  beauty  of  her 
daughters  are,  at  once,  the  inspiration  and  the  reward  of 
valour. 

Within  a  few  years  I  have  visited  nearly  all  the  states 
and  territories  of  United  America.  I  have  noticed  their 
respective  moral  and  physical  character,  and  have  viewed 
them  in  relation  to  the  ordinary  causes  of  the  rise  and  fall 
of  nations.  Should  the  freedom  of  this  country  ever 
perish,  one  of  her  last  intrenchments  will  be  in  the  moun- 
tains of  New-Hampshire.  Her  citizens,  however,  must, 
by  adhering  to  her  constitution,  and  by  proper  systems  of 
education,  preserve  in  their  minds  a  knowledge  of  the 
first  principles  of  civil  liberty,  a  due  sense  of  the  impor- 
tance of  morality,  and  a  lively  interest  in  the  transactions 
of  the  Revolution.  The  whole  history  of  that  great  event 
should,  with  us,  constitute  an  indispensable  part  of  educa- 
tion. But  in  speaking  much  of  its  battles,  we  must  think 
more  of  its  principles.  The  latter  were  so  perfectly  cor- 
rect ;  and  the  manner  of  acting  upon  them  was  so  candid, 
so  humane,  so  firm,  so  steady,  and  so  persevering,  that  no 
political  event,  since  the  creation  of  man,  merits  half  so 
much  admiration  as  the  achievement  of  our  independence. 

Before  leaving  New-Hampshire  I  may  say  a  word  re- 
specting Connecticut  river.  It  is  one  of  the  most  pleasant 
and  useful  rivers  in  the  world.  It  generally  preserves  a 
distance  of  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  miles  from  the 
ocean,  and  meanders  through  a  very  fertile  country  to  the 


1 1  o  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

distance  of  more  than  three  hundred  miles.  It  waters 
New-Hampshire,  Vermont,  Massachusetts,  and  Connec- 
ticut, and  at  length  passes  into  Long-Island  Sound. 

I  am  now  in  Vermont.6  This  is  a  noble  state,  and  may 
well  be  termed  the  peculiar  sister  of  New-Hampshire. 
The  same  mountainous  and  fertile  [14]  country;  the  same 
moral  and  physical  energies  characterize  them  both. 
Should  their  liberties  ever  be  assailed,  they  will  sympathet- 
ically unite  their  efforts,  and  triumph  or  fall  together.  In 
both  of  these  states  I  met  with  Revolutionary  men,  and 
they  were  still  the  champions  of  liberty.  The  tranquil 
charms  of  rural  avocations  had  preserved  the  purity  and 
peace  of  their  bosoms;  whilst  the  grandeur  of  their  moun- 
tains, and  the  rudeness  of  their  storms  had  continually 
reminded  them  of  the  blasts  of  tyranny,  and  of  the  uncon- 
querable spirit  of  freedom. 

In  both  of  these  states  I  experienced  unlimited  hospi- 
tality and  kindness.  Money  could  not  have  purchased  so 
rich  a  boon.  Amidst  their  lofty  hills,  covered  with  deep 
snows  and  assailed  by  piercing  winds,  I  found  the  humble 
cottager;  and  in  the  benevolence  of  his  aspect,  and  the 
hospitality  of  his  board,  I  seemed  to  hear  the  chorus  in 
Gustavus  Vasa :  — 7 

"Stranger,  cease  through  storms  to  roam; 
Welcome  to  the  cotter's  home; 
Though  no  courtly  pomp  be  here, 
Yet,  my  welcome  is  sincere." 

•  From  Brattleborough  to  Albany,  Evans  followed  a  much  travelled  route. 
As  early  as  1774,  a  road  had  been  made  from  Albany  to  Bennington,  thence 
directly  east  for  forty  miles  to  Brattleborough.  A  line  of  stages  was  estab- 
lished in  1814,  which  made  the  trip  between  the  two  places  in  one  day.  It 
was  considered  the  easiest  and  safest  route  to  Boston. —  ED. 

7  A  play  written  by  Henry  Brooke  (1706-83),  containing  reflections  on  the 
Prime  Minister  (Robert  Walpole).  It  was  not  allowed  to  be  put  on  the  stage 
in  1739,  but  later  was  printed  by  the  author,  the  Prince  of  Wales  subscribing 
for  four  hundred  copies.  Dr.  Johnson  vindicated  it  and  scored  the  govern- 
ment for  attempting  its  suppression. —  ED.  ^ 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  i  \  i 

In  some  parts  of  these  states  one  may  travel  many 
miles  without  meeting  a  habitation ;  and  during  deep  snows 
and  severe  weather  there  is  no  little  danger  of  perishing. 

In  passing  the  Green  Mountains,  I  experienced  a  very 
narrow  escape.  The  weather  was  remarkably  severe,  and 
scarcely  any  one  thought  travelling  practicable.  The 
wind  being  high  the  snow  was  whirled  in  every  direction, 
and  the  road  was  trackless.  About  4  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon I  passed  a  house,  and,  imprudently,  omitted  to 
inquire  as  to  the  distance  to  the  next  dwelling.  Fortu- 
nately, [15]  however,  I  met,  after  travelling  three  miles, 
an  express  from  a  neighbouring  village ;  and  he  informed 
me  that  the  next  habitation  was  at  the  distance  of  two 
miles.  To  this  circumstance  I  owe,  probably,  the  preser- 
vation of  my  life. 

About  dark  I  arose  a  steep  hill,  and  found  myself  in  an 
open  and  uncovered  situation.  The  weather  was  in- 
tensely cold,  and  the  wind  very  high.  I  realized  that 
owing  to  the  depth  of  the  snow,  the  consequent  difficulty 
of  obtaining  fuel,  and  the  probable  chill  which  I  should 
experience  after  ceasing  to  travel,  that  the  wood,  from 
which  I  had  just  emerged,  could  not  afford  me  sufficient 
shelter.  I  should,  however,  have  resorted  to  its  partial 
protection  in  preference  to  exposing  myself  to  an  unshel- 
tered opening,  had  I  not  fully  presumed,  from  the  informa- 
tion above  noticed,  that  a  habitation  was  near.  There 
was  not  a  moment  for  indecision.  I  marked  a  central 
course,  redoubled  my  efforts,  and  in  a  half  hour  reached 
a  comfortable  hut.  Here,  upon  taking  off  my  cap,  I  found 
my  ears  frozen  to  an  almost  incredible  degree. 

It  is  high  time  for  me  to  acknowledge  some  obligations, 
which  have  a  particular  claim  to  my  gratitude,  not  only 
as  it  respects  these  stages  of  my  tour,  but  throughout  the 
whole  of  that  part  of  it  which  was  enlivened  by  civilization. 


1 1 2  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

Benevolence  and  kindness  are  peculiar  characteristics 
of  the  female  heart.  The  mildness  of  her  nature  com- 
ports with  the  delicacy  of  her  appearance;  and  well  may 
Charity  always  be  represented  in  feminine  apparel.  Dur- 
ing my  tour,  the  hospitality  of  the  husband  was  always 
more  than  seconded  by  that  of  the  wife  and  daughter. 

Such  are  my  respect  for,  and  admiration  of  the  female 
character;  so  high  an  opinion  do  I  entertain  both  of  her 
understanding  and  heart;  and  so  narrow  [16]  are  the  views 
of  many,  even  in  this  enlightened  age,  in  relation  to  these 
particulars,  that  I  may  be  permitted,  in  this  little  work,  to 
become  her  advocate.  A  thousand  arguments  in  her 
behalf  challenge  my  attention;  but  I  must  not  transgress 
the  proper  limits  of  incidental  remark. 

The  influence  of  woman,  in  civilized  life,  has  not  yet 
reached  its  acme.  The  effects  of  her  ancient  condition 
are  not  entirely  removed.  Hereditary  ignorance  and  op- 
pression still  partially  obstruct  her  intellectual  progress. 
She  has,  in  times  past,  not  only  had  to  contend  with  an 
almost  entire  seclusion  from  the  world,  where  alone  theo- 
retical and  practical  knowledge  are  blended  for  the  im- 
provement of  the  human  mind,  but  the  other  sex,  uncon- 
scious of  moral  force  and  influenced  only  by  a  sense  of 
physical  strength,  have,  in  various  parts  of  the  globe, 
treated  her  as  an  inferior.  Oh,  wretched  pride ! —  oh,  dis- 
graceful ignorance ! —  oh,  vulgar  barbarity ! —  the  Dove  of 
Paphos  is  oppressed  by  the  Egyptian  Vulture. 

Even  in  Greece  and  Rome  the  state  of  woman,  to  speak 
generally,  was  degrading.  She  was  suffered  to  share  but 
little  in  the  general  intercourse  of  life;  and  Metellus  Nu- 
midicus,  in  an  oration  to  the  people  of  Rome,  speaks  of 
her  with  contempt.  Yet  some  exultingly  inquire, —  where 
are  your  female  philosophers  and  poets  of  antiquity  ? 

Greece  and  Rome  were  the  principal  theatres  of  ancient 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  1 1 3 

literature.  Had  the  men  of  those  times  and  countries 
been  treated  as  the  females  were,  we  should  have  looked 
in  vain  for  those  galaxys  of  genius  and  erudition,  which 
are  the  constant  theme  of  the  modern  world.  Had  this 
been  the  case  the  Peripatetic  Philosopher  would  not  have 
written,  the  Mantuan  Bard  would  not  have  sung.  Yet, 
even  here,  Corinna  was  the  instructress  of  Pindar,  and  in 
competition  [17]  with  him  obtained  the  prize.  Mamaea 
too  was  so  distinguished  for  wisdom,  that  the  worthy  and 
renowned  Ulpian  thought  it  an  honor  to  be  appointed  one 
of  her  counsellors.  Other  cases  might  be  introduced ;  but 
this  topic  is  leading  me  too  far  from  my  main  subject. 
One  example  more,  however,  shall  be  mentioned.  The 
mighty  genius  of  Zenobia  rose  above  the  indolence  inci- 
dent to  the  climate  and  manners  of  Asia.  Her  adminis- 
tration was  guided  by  the  most  judicious  maxims.  She 
was  too  a  linguist  and  historian,  and  expatiated  upon  the 
beauties  of  Homer  and  Plato,  with  the  learned  and  elo- 
quent Longinus. 

Perhaps  I  may  venture  a  little  further.  The  peculiar 
sphere  of  the  understanding  is  mathematics;  and  because 
there  have  not  been  great  mathematicians  among  the  fe- 
male sex,  she,  to  be  sure,  is  to  be  deprived  of  her  proper 
station  in  the  department  of  intelligence. 

Would  men  have  been  mathematicians  if  then-  education 
had  been  like  that  of  woman  ?  Surely  not.  Why  then 
should  woman,  whose  sphere  is  foreign  to  this  pursuit,  be 
represented  as  incapable  of  successfully  engaging  in  it? 
Besides,  many  men  of  the  first  genius,  and  of  the  most  vig- 
orous intellect,  have  entertained  an  aversion  to  mathemat- 
ics amounting  to  an  incapacity  to  attend  to  them  with 
success.  The  learned  Gibbon  declares  that  he  entirely 
lost  those  seasons  in  which  he  was  obliged  to  prosecute  this 
branch  of  study;  and  Gray,  in  his  time  the  first  scholar  in 


1 1 4  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

Europe,  asserts  that  if  mathematics  would  insure  him 
wealth  and  fame,  he  would  relinquish  its  advantages  for 
the  charms  of  general  literature. 

There  is  a  diversity  of  taste  among  mankind ;  and  the 
same  privilege  of  enjoying  it  without  censure  should  be 
granted  to  both  sexes.  The  great  mathematician  Archi- 
medes had  but  little  inclination  [18]  for  any  other  branch 
of  learning  than  geometry;  and  Gray  could  not  endure 
metaphysics. 

There  is  also  a  diversity  of  talents  among  both  sexes. 
The  logical,  learned,  and  eloquent  Cicero  failed  in  his  at- 
tempts in  poetry.  How  unreasonable  would  it  be  to 
consider  him  inferior  to  our  great  female  poets  on  this  ac- 
count !  and,  of  course,  how  unfair  to  deny  strength  of  in- 
tellect to  woman,  because  she  is  not  conspicuous  for  her 
knowledge  of  mathematics ! 

A  sense  of  propriety,  relative  to  this  digression,  con- 
strains me  to  conclude.  In  what  respect,  I  ask,  is  woman 
inferior  to  the  other  sex  ?  Heroism  is  a  test  of  intellectual 
vigour;  and  woman  has  evinced  superlative  bravery,  by 
a  sudden  transition  from  the  gentle  avocations  of  domes- 
tic life  to  the  battle's  rage.  An  enlightened  fortitude 
also  argues  strength  of  intellect.  Here  let  men  admire 
what  they  can  never  imitate :  how  much  physical  suffering, 
and  how  much  anguish  of  spirit  are  peculiar  to  the  female 
character !  yet,  resignation  and  hope  are  the  cherub  com- 
panions of  her  tribulation. 

Modern  times  are  throwing  wonderful  light  upon  this 
subject;  and  are  developing  those  astonishing  combina- 
tions of  female  sentiment  and  genius,  which  in  past  ages 
scintilated  through  the  gloom  of  barbarism.  A  splendid 
list  of  names  illustrative  of  this  position  might  be  here  in- 
troduced ;  but  the  whole  list  would  be  too  long,  and  a  selec- 
tion would  be  difficult.  Sentiment  is  emphatically  the 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  1 1 5 

highest  sphere  of  genius;  and  it  is  the  sphere  where  the 
heart  becomes  the  great  magician  of  intellectual  life.  Men 
are  indebted  to  woman  for  what  they  possess  of  this  prin- 
ciple; and  until  she  made  them  acquainted  with  it  they 
were  barbarians. 

Wherever  I  stopped,  in  my  course  through  the  settled 
parts  of  the  country,  I  was  much  pleased  [19]  with  the  inter- 
est which  my  appearance  excited  in  little  children.  There 
was  a  conflict  exhibited  in  their  countenances  between  the 
fears  implanted  by  domestic  education,  and  the  native 
fondness  of  man  for  the  hunter  state.  By  my  assuming, 
however,  the  aspect  and  the  smile  of  civilization,  they 
would  come  to  my  arms  of  fur,  and  listen  attentively  to  the 
simple  stories  of  the  chase.  Afterwards,  they  would  re- 
ward my  kindness  to  them  by  more  solid  attentions  to  my 
dogs. 

In  travelling  from  Connecticut  River  to  Bennington,  I 
passed  through  a  part  of  Marlborough,  Wilmington,  Reeds- 
bury,  Stanford,  and  Woodford.  Whilst  in  the  latter  place 
the  weather  was  severe  beyond  a  parallel.  When,  how- 
ever, in  Brattleborough,  which  lies  immediately  upon  the 
river,  the  weather  was  much  more  moderate. 

Whilst  upon  the  Green  Mountains  my  thoughts  were 
particularly  directed  to  the  days  of  the  Revolution,  when, 
in  the  language  of  a  British  Chief,  the  sons  of  New-Hamp- 
shire and  Vermont  hung  like  a  cloud  upon  his  left.  Here 
too  I  remembered  that  thunderbolt  of  war,  the  veteran 
Stark,  in  whose  heart  dwelt  the  very  genius  of  his  country, 
and  who  discomfited  her  enemies  by  the  strength  of  his 
native  hills. 

On  these  mountains  my  attention  was  attracted  by  the 
appearance  of  a  thick  fall  of  snow  during  a  clear  sunshine. 
This  appearance  is  not  common  here ;  and  proceeds,  I  pre- 
sume, from  the  little  influence  which  the  sun  produces 


n6  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

upon  the  state  of  the  atmosphere  in  this  situation.  On 
the  west  side  of  these  mountains  the  snow  was  not  so  deep 
as  on  the  east  side;  and  I  apprehend  that  this  is  usually 
the  case. 

Within  about  two  miles  beyond  this  lofty  ridge,  Ben- 
nington  is  situated.8  This  town  presents  an  ancient  [20] 
aspect,  and  appears  unflourishing;  it  is  situated,  however, 
upon  a  fertile  tract  of  country,  and  contains  several  hand- 
some buildings.  The  number  of  its  houses  is  perhaps  two 
hundred.  Mount  Anthony,  in  the  south  part  of  the  town, 
makes  a  pleasant  appearance ;  and  the  town  itself  is  ren- 
dered interesting  by  the  two  famous  battles,  fought  a  little 
west  of  it,  on  the  i6th  of  August,  1777.  In  these  battles 
the  celebrated  General  Stark  acquired  imperishable  fame. 
Owing  to  the  severity  of  the  weather  I  did  not  visit  the 
noted  cave  of  Mount  Anthony. 

From  Bennington  I  proceeded  through  Hoosuck,  Pitts- 
town,  Troy,  and  Albany.  From  the  former  to  the  latter 
place,  the  distance  is  about  thirty-five  miles. 

In  passing  through  Pittstown  the  weather  was  still 
severe;  and  night  having  overtaken  me  before  I  could 
reach  a  public  house,  I  was  under  the  necessity  of  lodging 
in  a  log  hut.  The  family  were  very  poor;  but  the  wealth 
of  Kings  could  not  purchase  their  virtues.  As  is  the  case 
with  many  other  honest  people,  they  had  experienced  a 
series  of  misfortunes  which  ultimately  reduced  them  to 
penury.  Two  years  before  the  period  of  my  seeing  them, 
their  mills,  the  principal  part  of  their  property,  had  been 
carried  away  by  a  freshet ;  and  a  year  after  this  event,  their 
dwelling  was  consumed,  with  all  its  contents.  Yet  these 
good  people  were  cheerful,  and  their  poverty  sat  gracefully 

1  Bennington  was  the  first  township  granted  within  the  present  state  of  Ver- 
mont, being  chartered  by  Benning  Wentworth,  governor  of  New  Hampshire, 
in  1749.  Settlement  was  not  begun,  however,  until  the  fall  of  1761. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  1 1  j 

upon  them.  They  were  unable  to  furnish  me  with  a  bed, 
a  comfort  with  which  I  had  learned  to  dispense,  but  very 
readily  shared  with  me  their  last  loaf.  For  their  services 
they  charged  nothing;  and  it  was  with  difficulty  that  I 
persuaded  them  to  take  compensation. 

The  blessings  of  poverty  are  neither  few  nor  small.  It 
attaches  an  extraordinary  interest  to  the  most  common 
acquisitions;  and,  when  there  is  little  [21]  or  no  apprehen- 
sion of  want,  it  furnishes  a  constant  source  of  pleasing 
anticipation.  Under  such  circumstances,  parents  and  chil- 
dren experience  their  happiest  moments.  Mutual  love,  and 
mutual  gratulation,  here  heighten  and  sanctify  every  ex- 
pression of  the  care  and  bounty  of  Providence. —  There  is 
something  in  virtuous  poverty,  which  speaks  of  treasures 
laid  up  in  Heaven. 

In  entering  Troy  I  left  Lansingburgh  on  my  right.  The 
former  place  is  exceedingly  compact  and  flourishing,  and 
extends  between  one  and  two  miles  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
Hudson.  On  the  other  side  of  the  river,  at  the  distance 
of  six  miles,  Albany  is  situated. 

This  city,  in  relation  to  the  state,  ranks  next  to  that  of 
New- York;  but  its  appearance  is  far  from  being  elegant. 
The  streets  are  generally  narrow  and  crooked;  and  its 
numerous  buildings  in  the  Gothic  style  give  to  it  an  ancient 
and  unpolished  aspect.  It  is,  evidently,  however,  a  place 
of  great  trade;  and  must,  in  the  nature  of  things,  rapidly 
increase  in  wealth  and  population.  The  back  country  is 
extensive  and  fertile;  and  the  public  spirit  of  the  state  of 
New- York  is  affording  every  facility  to  the  inland  trans- 
portation of  its  produce. 

The  variety  of  people  in  Albany  is  great.  The  Dutch 
here  still  make  a  considerable  figure;  but  the  Americans 
are  more  numerous.  This  place  has  received  many  names. 
Its  scite  was  originally  called  Aurania;  and  the  town  itself 


1 1 8  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

was  afterwards  named  Beverwych,  Fort  Orange,  William- 
stadt,  and,  upon  its  capitulation  to  the  English  in  1664, 
it  received  its  present  appellation.  This  city,  next  to 
Jamestown,  in  Virginia,  is  the  oldest  in  the  United  States. 

This  place  contains  many  large  public  buildings,  among 
which  is  the  city-hall,  hospital,  armoury,  [22]  &c.  There 
are  here  also  some  elegant  dwelling  houses;  but  I  should 
not  suppose  the  city,  from  its  appearance,  the  residence  of 
much  taste  or  erudition.  It  contains,  however,  what  some 
may  consider  an  equivalent : —  many  families  of  wealth  and 
fashion.  The  population  of  the  place  is  about  twelve 
thousand. 

After  leaving  Albany  I  shaped  my  course  for  Niagara 
Falls  by  the  way  of  Cherry  Valley.  From  the  city  there 
are  two  roads;  the  left  hand  one  leading  to  the  last  men- 
tioned place,  and  the  right  hand  one  to  Schenectady.  The 
great  Western  Turnpike  extends  from  Schenectady,  lying 
on  the  south  bank  of  the  Mohawk,  and  sixteen  miles  from 
Albany,  to  Buffalo,  a  distance  of  about  three  hundred 
miles.  The  two  roads  above  mentioned  intersect  about 
one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  from  Albany.9  Upon  both 
of  them  are  many  flourishing  villages;  and  the  produce 
which  is  conveyed  from  the  interior  to  Albany,  Troy,  and 
other  places  in  the  state,  is  immense. 

The  state  of  New- York  is  very  conspicuous  for  her  pub- 
lic spirit.  She  is  affording  every  facility,  within  the  grasp 
of  her  mighty  genius  and  resources,  to  her  inland  com- 
merce. In  arts,  and  arms,  and  internal  improvement,  she 

•The  Great  Western  Turnpike  did  not  pass  through  Schenectady,  but 
was  the  one  that  led  to  Cherry  Valley,  while  the  Schenectady  road  connected 
with  the  state  road,  which  extended  to  Buffalo.  Strictly  speaking,  the  two 
roads  did  not  meet  but  ran  nearly  parallel  to  Lake  Erie;  however,  a  turnpike 
leading  from  Cherry  Valley  to  Saline  (Syracuse),  intersected  the  state  road  at 
about  the  distance  stated.  Evans  took  this  path.  For  the  Great  Western  and 
State  roads,  see  Buttrick's  Voyages,  ante,  notes  2  and  12. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  1 1  <j 

is  already  a  Rome  in  miniature;  and  her  grand  Canal  will 
vie  with  those  of  China  and  the  Russian  Empire. 

In  travelling  over  a  part  of  the  great  western  turnpike; 
and  in  collecting  information  as  to  the  settlements  and  bus- 
iness both  here  and  on  the  Mohawk,  I  was  led  to  make 
some  statistical  calculations,  the  general  result  of  which, 
together  with  some  additional  reflections,  I  transcribe  from 
my  journal. 

The  state  of  New  York  is,  of  itself,  a  mighty  republic. 
Her  moral  and  physical  energies;  her  agriculture,  [23] 
manufactures,  and  commerce;  and  her  individual  enter- 
prise and  public  spirit,  render  her  omnipotent.  She  could 
contend  alone  and  unassisted  with  Great  Britain.  What 
then  is  the  aggregate  force  of  all  our  states  and  territories  ? 
The  contemplation  of  their  potential,  and  even  probable 
physical  power,  within  a  short  succession  of  years,  pre- 
sents such  a  manifold  ratio  as  to  overwhelm  the  boldest 
calculator. 

But  the  moral  energies  of  the  country  will,  no  doubt, 
become  proportionably  less.  The  friends  of  political  vir- 
tue, however,  must  not  be  discouraged.  The  moral  hero 
can  do  much  towards  stemming  the  torrent  of  political 
corruption.  Besides,  the  vast  surface  over  which  the  ele- 
ments of  this  corruption  will  spread  themselves,  will  ren- 
der it,  for  a  long  course  of  time,  comparatively  harmless; 
and  beyond  this  period,  the  influence  of  some  Heavenly 
star  may  give  to  ambition  and  the  love  of  power  a  purer 
spirit  and  a  nobler  aim. 

In  relation  to  this  topic,  the  prevailing  spirit  of  emigra- 
tion, from  the  maritime  to  the  inland  frontier,  will  have  a 
very  beneficial  influence.  In  a  public  point  of  view,  great 
and  permanent  advantages  will  arise  from  the  settlement 
of  our  western  states  and  territories.  But  individuals 
from  the  east  are  not  always  benefitted  by  a  removal.  The 


1 20  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

principal  advantages  arising  from  such  a  step,  are  the 
profits  on  the  purchase  of  new  lands,  and  better  crops  ob- 
tained with  less  labour.  The  disadvantages  are  numer- 
ous. Those  who  can,  by  their  industry,  live  well  at  home, 
will  act  wisely  in  remaining  where  they  are.  By  a  re- 
moval they  lose  a  climate  to  which  they  are  accustomed, 
good  society,  an  opportunity  to  educate  their  children, 
and  scenes  to  which  their  hearts  will  often  fondly  turn  — 
The  sons  of  New-Hampshire  never  forget  her  mountains ! 
[24]  I  shall  speak  more  fully  upon  the  subject  of  em- 
igration in  another  place. 

I  may  here  introduce  some  facts  relative  to  the  grand 
canal  in  the  State  of  New  York."    The  object  of  this 
great  undertaking  is  to  facilitate  the  inland  commerce  of 
the  State,  by  uniting  the  waters  of  Lake  Erie  with  those  of 
the  Hudson.    The  former  are  much  higher  than  the  latter ; 
but  still  the  labour  and  expence  necessary  to  complete  the 
undertaking,  will  prove  to  be  immense.    To  the  State  of 
New- York,  however,  such  a  work  scarcely  requires  an 
effort.    Her  almost  inexhaustible  resources,  directed  by 
the  genius  and  energy  of  her  Clinton,  could  accomplish  a 
hundred  times  as  much.    The  Canal  passes  in  the  direc- 
tion of  Genessee  river,  and  Seneca  and  Cayuga  lakes ;  and 
will  turn  much  of  the  trade  of  the  west  from  Montreal  to 
the  city  of  New- York. 

Soon  after  leaving  Albany  I  met  with  Colonel  P.  for- 
merly an  officer  under  General  Wayne,  during  his  famous 
expedition  against  the  indians.11  From  this  gentleman  I 
obtained  many  interesting  facts;  and  spent  a  pleasant 
evening  in  conversing  with  him  upon  the  subject  of 

10  For  a  brief  account  of  the  Erie  Canal,  see  Buttrick's  Voyages,  ante,  note 
37-—  ED. 

II  Wayne's  campaign,  1793-94,  terminated  in  victory  at  the  decisive  battle 
of  Fallen  Timbers  (August  20,  1794),  where  the  confederated  Indians  under 
Little  Turtle  were  completely  routed. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  121 

expatriation.  This  subject  involves  an  abstract  ques- 
tion of  principle;  and  should  be  settled  by  the  United 
States  without  the  least  reference  to  the  opinion  of 
civilians,  or  the  practice  of  other  nations.  It  is  humili- 
ating to  see  with  what  reverence  we  turn  in  relation 
to  this  subject,  to  the  opinion  of  Blackstone,  and  to 
the  contradictory  positions  of  the  British  Government. 
The  United  States  is  the  place,  above  all  others,  for  cor- 
rect opinions,  upon  questions  involved  in  the  great  science 
of  morals,  as  far  as  it  respects  the  natural  rights  of  indi- 
viduals, the  necessary  modification  of  those  rights  in  civil 
society,  and  the  rights  of  nations  as  collective  moral  agents. 
Europe  ever  has  been,  [25]  and  still  is  a  school  of  wrong; 
and  those  who  are  instructed  by  her  participate  in  the 
sophistry  of  her  reasoning,  the  tyranny  of  her  views,  and  the 
inconsistency  of  her  practice.  The  question  of  expatria- 
tion, is  a  question  involving  individual  right,  for  the  de- 
fence of  which  the  aggregate  strength  of  the  whole  com- 
munity is  guaranteed.  This  question,  in  the  United 
States,  arises  from  the  claims  of  other  nations  to  those  of 
their  subjects,  who  have  left  the  territory  to  which  they 
belonged  without  violating  any  municipal  law  upon  the 
subject.  The  United  States  should  protect  all  within  her 
jurisdiction,  whether  upon  her  territory  or  under  her  flag, 
unless  some  municipal  regulation  of  the  adverse  party  in 
the  question,  shall  have  rendered  the  individual  concerned 
incapable  of  acquiring  the  right  to  protection  from  the  de- 
fending power.  These  principles  should  be  adhered  to 
for  three  reasons:  the  United  States  have  a  right  to  do  so; 
they  are  bound  by  the  civil  compact,  which  renders  pro- 
tection and  obedience  inseparable,  to  do  so;  and  it  is  their 
duty  as  a  collective  moral  being  to  guard  any  individual, 
not  under  the  jurisdiction  of  another  sovereignty,  from 
arbitrary  power. 


122  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

Such  a  course  is  dictated  by  the  eternal  and  omnipotent 
principles  of  justice;  and  therefore  no  law  of  nations, 
which  is  a  rule  created  or  supposed  by  man,  can  resist 
them.  Even  that  law  which  civilians  call  the  voluntary 
law  of  nations,  cannot,  in  relation  to  this  subject,  exon- 
erate a  government  from  those  obligations  which  result 
from  the  social  compact ;  because  the  question  is  grounded 
in  the  very  germ  of  civil  society;  and  the  welfare  of  the 
whole  community  of  nations,  so  far  from  requiring  in  this 
case  an  adherence  to  this  law,  renders  it,  upon  its  own 
principles,  entirely  inoperative. 

[26]  The  internal  law  of  nations  does  not  militate  with 
the  above  principles,  because  it  requires  only  what  is  fair 
and  conscientious.  The  customary  law  of  nations  must 
yield  to  those  older  and  better  rules  which  are  dictated  by 
justice.  And  as  to  the  conventional  law  of  nations,  it  rests 
upon  the  terms  of  contracts  in  subordination  to  previously 
existing  and  indispensable  duties. 

On  the  1 2th  of  February  I  passed  through  Guelderland, 
Princeton,  Schoharie,  and  Carlisle;  and  on  the  following 
day  through  Sharon,  Cherry  Valley,  and  Warren.12  Scho- 
harie is  one  of  the  wealthiest  inland  farming  towns  in  the 
state  of  N.  York. 

The  weather  still  continued  remarkably  severe;  but  my 
dress  was  so  comfortable,  that  I  had  no  occasion  for  a 
fire. 

u  Evans  was  now  passing  through  the  settlements  of  the  Schoharie  and 
upper  Susquehanna  valleys.  They  had  constituted  the  western  frontier  of 
New  York  in  the  period  of  the  Revolutionary  War,  and  in  consequence  had 
borne  the  brunt  of  the  Iroquois  and  Loyalist  attacks  under  the  leadership  of 
Joseph  Brant.  The  Susquehanna  Valley  was  virtually  reconverted  into  a  wil- 
derness, the  most  important  single  attack  being  the  Cherry  Valley  massacre, 
November  n,  1778.  The  first  settlers  had  been  chiefly  Palatine  Germans  and 
Scotch-Irish;  those  that  repeopled  the  country  after  the  war  were  almost  en- 
tirely from  New  England.  See  Halsey,  Old  New  York  Frontier  (New  York, 
1901). —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  123 

During  my  whole  tour  through  the  settled  parts  of  the 
country,  I  found,  a  constant  source  of  amusement  in  the 
curiosity  and  variety  of  observation,  which  my  appearance 
excited.  I  must,  however,  confess  that  I  often  wished 
myself  less  conspicuous. 

It  is  in  the  moment  of  surprise  that  the  human  character 
most  fully  developes  itself;  and  in  travelling,  during  the 
constant  operation  of  this  cause,  one  may  acquire  much 
knowledge  of  the  almost  infinite  variety  of  disposition 
which  exists  among  mankind.  I  met,  in  my  course,  with 
every  shade  of  character,  from  the  man  of  reading  to  the 
totally  ignorant ;  and  from  the  real  gentleman  to  the  rude 
and  vulgar. 

It  may  amuse  a  portion  of  my  readers  to  know  some  of 
the  various  impressions  which  were  made  by  my  appear- 
ance, and  the  receptions  which  I  experienced. 

People  seldom  knew  from  whence  I  came,  or  what  was 
my  place  of  destination;  and  surprise  and  speculation 
were  universal.  Speculation  was  as  various  [27]  as  the 
dispositions  and  capacities  of  individuals. —  Some  hon- 
oured me  with  the  idea  that  I  was  Bonaparte  in  disguise; 
and  some  secretly  suggested  that  I  was  a  Wizard : — 

"Who  prowl'd  the  country  far  and  near, 
Bewitch'd  the  children  of  the  peasants, 
Dry'd  up  the  cows,  and  lam'd  the  deer, 
And  suck'd  the  eggs,  and  kill'd  the  pheasants." 

Some  too,  imagined  me  an  Icelander;  and  some  a  British 
Spy.  A  few  treated  me  with  rudeness,  many  in  a  very 
gentlemanly  manner,  and  some,  not  knowing  what  to  make 
of  my  appearance,  conferred  upon  me  the  title  of  General, 
and  invited  me  to  drink  with  them. 

With  respect  to  the  first  class,  I  made  a  point  of  taking 
no  notice  of  them,  when  I  could  with  propriety  avoid  it; 
but  when  I  could  not,  I  always  made  an  example  of  them 


1 24  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

upon  the  spot.  Such  men  seldom  possess  even  animal 
courage;  and  there  are  very  few,  even  of  their  associates, 
who  are  not  pleased  to  see  them  punished. 

I  may  here  observe,  that  I  was  impressed  by  the  general 
ignorance,  with  respect  to  the  manners  and  customs  of 
other  nations,  which  appeared  to  exist  in  the  civilized 
places  through  which  I  passed;  and  especially  in  and 
about  Albany. 

It  is  well  known,  that  in  Russia  and  many  other  coun- 
tries in  the  north  of  Europe,  people  generally  dress,  more 
or  less,  in  furs;  and  there  are  some  instances  of  such  a 
practice,  even  in  the  Canadas. —  These  facts,  connected 
with  the  severity  of  the  weather  which  prevailed  during 
the  early  stages  of  my  tour,  might,  one  would  think,  have 
rendered  a  suit  of  fur  a  less  general  object  of  surprise. 
Severe  as  our  winters  are,  I  think  a  garment  or  two  of 
Buffalo  or  some  other  warm  skin,  to  be  worn  occasionally, 
[28]  would,  to  say  nothing  of  comfort,  save  many  a  man 
from  rheumatism,  and  even  from  being  frozen  to  death. 
It  is  only  a  year  or  two,  since  the  stage  driver  from  Albany 
to  Bennington,  froze  and  fell  from  his  seat.  The  passen- 
gers were  not  apprized  of  the  event,  until  the  horses  had 
proceeded  several  miles.  The  power  of  frost  upon  human 
life  is  astonishing.  In  an  unsuspecting  moment  the  blood 
chills  in  the  veins  and  ceases  to  move.  The  memorable 
winter  of  1709  saw  two  thousand  men,  under  the  cele- 
brated Charles  the  Xllth,  fall  dead  with  cold  in  one  day. 

Many  other  similar  instances  might  be  mentioned.  As 
to  Charles,  however,  he  had,  by  habit,  rendered  himself 
almost  superhuman.  His  person  was  as  invulnerable  to 
the  frosts  of  Denieper,  as  was  his  mind  to  the  misfortunes 
which  finally  made  him  a  prisoner  at  Bender.18 

18  A  fortified  town  on  the  Dniester  in  Bessarabia,  Russia,  where  Charles 
XII  took  refuge  after  the  battle  of  Poltowa. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  \  25 

On  the  evening  of  the  i4th  of  February  I  had  passed 
Otsego,  Richfield,  &c.  and  arrived  at  Plainfield.  The 
towns  between  Albany  and  the  last  mentioned  place  are 
generally  inconsiderable,  and  offer  no  interesting  mate- 
rials. They  are,  however,  flourishing  villages.  During 
the  whole  of  the  i4th  instant  it  snowed,  and  the  travelling 
was  very  heavy.  The  general  aspect  of  this  part  of  the 
country  is  rather  level  than  otherwise;  there  are  here,  how- 
ever, many  high  and  long  hills.  I  had  not  yet  ceased  to 
be  vulnerable  to  fatigue ;  but  hardships  had,  in  a  measure, 
become  familiar  to  me.  I  do  not  pretend  that  I  did  not 
sometimes  stand  in  need  of  resolution;  but  men  have  only 
to  move  on,  and  difficulties  become  less.  It  is  in  looking 
ahead  at  the  aggregate  obstacles  which  present  themselves 
in  an  undertaking,  and  in  embodying  them,  as  it  were, 
in  the  space  of  a  moment,  that  one's  mind  is  appalled. 
By  meeting  these  obstacles  in  detail,  we  easily  overcome 
[29]  them;  and  then  look  back  astonished  at  our  appre- 
hensions. 

The  Dutch  mode  of  building,  both  with  respect  to  their 
houses  and  barns,  is  visible  in  every  part  of  the  state  of 
New- York;  but  American  manners  and  customs  are  here 
absorbing  all  others. 

The  interior  of  this  state,  like  that  of  New-Hampshire 
and  Vermont,  presents  many  small  and  ill  contrived  log 
huts;  and  those  who  have  been  unaccustomed  to  seeing 
such,  would  be  surprised  to  find  how  comfortably  people 
may  live  in  them.  These  huts  are  sometimes  without  a 
floor,  and  have  wooden  chimnies.  Men  who  are  ac- 
quainted only  with  polished  life,  would  tremble  at  the  idea 
of  spending  their  days  in  one  of  these  buildings;  yet,  they 
are  generally  the  abode  of  virtue,  health  and  happiness. 

On  the  1 5th  and  i6th  of  February  I  passed  through 
Eaton,  Nelson,  Casnove,  Pompey  and  Manlius.  The 


1 26  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  & 

weather  was  very  severe,  the  snow  deep,  and  continually 
blowing.  At  Pompey  I  was  so  beset  by  ignorant  imper- 
tinence and  loquacious  curiosity,  that  I  found  it  necessary 
to  harrangue  the  multitude.  Having  laid  down  for  them 
some  salutary  rules  upon  the  subject  of  manners,  and  tak- 
ing their  silence  for  an  apology,  I  proceeded  to  Manlius. 

Even  in  this  part  of  the  country,  bears,  wolves,  and  deer 
are  numerous.  During  the  preceding  fall  the  depreda- 
tions of  the  two  former  were  very  great;  and  the  bounty 
offered  for  wolves,  by  some  of  the  counties  in  the  state, 
was  ninety  dollars. 

During  the  iyth  the  weather  was  still  severe  and 
the  wind  high.  I  passed  Onondago  "  and  Marcellus. 
Throughout  these  townships  there  are  high  and  low  hills. 
Owing  to  them,  and  to  the  depth  of  snow,  my  fatigue  was 
great.  My  health  also  had  suffered  by  many  days  and 
nights  of  severe  tooth  ache.  In  [30]  passing  through  these 
and  many  other  places,  I  experienced  attentions  from 
people  of  consideration;  and  was  frequently  introduced 
to  their  families. 

Onondago  was  formerly  the  chief  town  of  the  Six  Na- 
tions; and  lies  on  the  south  of  the  lake  of  that  name.  This 
lake  is  sometimes  called  salt  lake ;  and  the  springs  near  its 
shores  produce  immense  quantities  of  salt.  The  Onon- 
dago Indians  reside  near  this  lake;  but  their  numbers  are 
diminishing. 

During  the  i8th,  igih  and  2oth  of  February  I  travelled 
through  Brutus,  Aurelius,  Auburn,  Cayuga,  Junius,  and 
Waterloo.15  The  weather  in  this  part  of  the  country  had 

14  At  Onondaga  village  was  formerly  located  the  council  house  of  the  Six 
Nations.  In  the  treaty  of  Fort  Stanwix  (1788)  this  village  was  retained  as  a 
reservation;  but  ten  years  later  a  large  part  of  it  was  sold  to  the  state,  and  the 
town  of  Onondaga  was  incorporated  thereon. —  ED. 

"Evans  was  now  in  the  military  district.  The  legislature  (1789)  had  set 
aside  1,680,000  acres  as  bounty  land  for  the  soldiers  of  the  Revolutionary  War. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  127 

been  for  several  days,  and  still  was  colder  than  had  been 
before  known  there.  The  snow  likewise  was  remark- 
ably deep.  Cayuga  Lake  is  about  forty  miles  in  length, 
and  from  two  to  four  miles  broad.  The  famous  bridge 
across  it  is  more  than  one  mile  in  length.  On  the  banks 
of  this  lake  the  Cayuga  Indians  reside. 

The  Six  Nations  of  Indians  above  mentioned  are  the 
Mohawks,  Oneidas,  Onondagoes,  Senecas,  Cayugas  and 
Tuscaroras.  The  Stockbridge  and  Brotherton  Indians 
now  live  with  the  united  tribes."  Notwithstanding  these, 
and  many  other  tribes  are  still  in  possession  of  vast  tracts 
of  land,  and  receive  annually  considerable  sums  from  the 
United  States,  and  also  from  individual  states,  they  are 
occasionally  emigrating  to  the  wildernesses  of  Canada. 
Still  wild  and  untameable,  the  surrounding  aspect  of  civili- 
zation alarms  them;  and  they  silence  the  suggestions  of 
jealousy  by  removing  to  pathless  and  illimitable  forests. 

Many  of  the  villages  on  the  Western  Turnpike  have 
made  their  appearance  within  a  very  few  years;  and  the 
vast  resources  of  the  interior  of  the  state  of  New- York  are 
daily  developing. 

[31]  During  this  part  of  my  tour  a  little  incident  occurred, 


The  tract  extended  from  the  eastern  border  of  Onondaga  County  to  Seneca 
Lake,  and  was  surveyed  into  twenty-eight  townships,  upon  which  the  governor 
bestowed  classical  names. —  ED. 

'*  The  Housatonic  Indians  who  had  formed  a  mission  settlement  at  Stock- 
bridge,  Massachusetts,  were  granted  a  township  by  the  Oneida  —  the  present 
New  Stockbridge,  Madison  County.  Thither,  immediately  after  the  Revolu- 
tionary War,  they  removed  to  the  number  of  about  four  hundred.  The  Brother- 
town  Indians  had  preceded  them.  In  1774  the  Oneida  had  given  to  the  rem- 
nant of  Narragansetts,  Pequots,  and  other  tribes  living  for  the  most  part  at 
Montville  and  Farmington,  Connecticut,  a  piece  of  land  fourteen  miles  south 
of  the  present  Utica.  They  emigrated  with  their  pastor  and  organized  a  new 
tribe,  the  Brothertown  Indians.  Both  tribes  later  removed  to  Wisconsin,  the 
Stockbridge  Indians  settling  at  South  Kaukauna  on  Fox  River  (1822-29),  an(^ 
the  Brothertown  Indians  on  the  east  side  of  Lake  Winnebago  a  few  years  later. 
See  Davidson,  In  Unnamed  Wisconsin  (Milwaukee,  1895).—  ED. 


128  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

which  resulted  so  pleasantly,  and  so  fully  evinced  the 
policy  as  well  as  propriety  of  a  certain  course  of  conduct, 
that  I  am  induced  to  mention  it.  In  one  of  the  last  named 
towns,  I  was,  whilst  at  a  public  house,  furiously  assailed 
by  words  and  threats,  by  a  man,  who  evidently  had  been 
of  considerable  consideration  in  society,  but  who  had  be- 
come a  sot,  and  was  at  this  time  much  intoxicated.  As 
he  was  not  in  a  situation  to  defend  himself,  there  could 
have  been  no  display  of  true  courage  in  punishing  him; 
and  besides,  he  was  already  an  object  of  pity.  To  his 
imbecile  fury,  therefore,  I  presented  only  a  steady  eye. 
He  drew  back.  In  a  few  minutes,  however,  he  made 
another  assault;  and  again  yielded  to  a  firm  and  silent 
aspect.  A  few  hours  after  I  met  him  in  another  place. 
His  inebriety  had,  in  a  great  measure,  left  him;  he  was 
very  sorry  for  his  conduct,  and  expressed  towards  me 
much  good  will. 

I  have  observed,  that  I  was  seldom  known ;  and  as  I  ap- 
peared to  be  a  person  travelling  in  disguise,  some  pains 
were  taken  to  ascertain  who  I  was.  The  suggestions  re- 
specting me  were  very  numerous;  and  a  great  many  bets 
were  made,  and  many  expedients  resorted  to  in  relation 
to  my  origin,  destination,  and  business.  Some  imagined 
me  to  be  upon  a  secret  expedition  for  the  government. 
My  manners  seldom  comporting  with  my  mode  of  living, 
the  multitude  were  at  a  loss  to  know  to  what  class  in  so- 
ciety I  belonged.  They  heard  me  converse  like  other  peo- 
ple; but  seldom  saw  me  eat  or  drink,  and  were  surprised 
to  view  me  sleeping  with  my  dogs  upon  the  bare  floor. 

In  my  course  through  the  upper  part  of  the  state  of 
New- York,  I  spent  many  a  pleasant  evening,  surrounded 
by  a  great  variety  of  character,  and  seated  [32]  by  a  huge 
western  fire.  During  these  seasons  some  political  ques- 
tion would  often  arise,  and  it  was  interesting  to  witness 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  129 

the  debates.  Upon  one  occasion  a  serious  legal  question, 
long  agitated  in  the  neighbourhood,  was  introduced ;  and 
being  a  limb  of  the  law,  I  involuntarily  made  an  observa- 
tion upon  it.  Bets  soon  began  to  run  high,  and  the  Pedes- 
trian was  appointed  umpire. 

It  is  unpleasant  for  one  to  speak  of  himself. —  Many 
anecdotes,  which  would  be  interesting  to  my  friends,  must 
be  omitted. 

In  the  course  of  a  few  days  after  leaving  Waterloo,  I 
passed  through  many  towns,  the  principal  of  which  are 
Romulus,  Ovid,  Hector,  Ulysses,  and  Geneva;  also  Canan- 
daigua,  the  two  Bloomfields  and  Lima;  and  in  addition  to 
these  Avon,  Caledonia  and  Batavia.17  Some  of  these 
towns,  especially  the  two  Bloomfields  and  Lima,  consti- 
tute a  remarkably  handsome  and  rich  tract  of  country. 

Canandaigua  is  situated  at  the  north  of  the  lake  of  this 
name;  and  many  of  the  buildings  of  this  place  are  large 
and  elegant.  The  lake  is  about  eighteen  or  twenty  miles 
long,  and  two  or  three  miles  broad. 

But  it  would  have  been  in  order  first  to  speak  of  Seneca 
lake,  which  lies  east  of  lake  Canandaigua.  Seneca  lake  is 
about  thirty-five  miles  long,  and  about  two  miles  wide. 
The  numerous  lakes  in  the  interior  of  the  state  of  New- 
York,  are  admirably  calculated  to  promote  her  inland 
commerce.  Whilst  they  furnish  by  their  numbers,  and 
their  positions  the  means  of  connecting  her  resources,  and 
promoting  the  trade  and  intercourse  of  her  people,  they 
are  not  so  large  as  to  occupy  an  unnecessary  portion  of 
her  territory.  Every  thing,  in  relation  to  New- York, 
is  conspiring  to  render  her  a  wonderfully  powerful  State. 

[33]  Whilst  in  Canandaigua  the  court  was  sitting;  and 

17  At  Geneva,  Evans  left  the  military  district  and  entered  the  Phelps  and 
Gorham  Purchase.  For  a  brief  account  of  this  tract  and  the  towns  located 
upon  it,  see  Buttrick's  Voyages,  ante,  notes  3  and  36. — kED. 


i  30  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

owing  to  some  novel  proceedings  there,  one  or  two  thou- 
sand people  were  assembled.  After  pressing  through  the 
crowd,  and  obtaining  some  information  respecting  my 
course,  I  proceeded  on  my  way. 

Not  long  after  I  formed  a  particular  acquaintance  with 
Doctor  S.  He  introduced  me  to  his  family,  and  enter- 
tained me  in  a  very  hospitable  and  friendly  manner.  The 
Doctor,  being  no  less  fond  of  an  innocent  joke  than  he  was 
conspicuous  for  his  good  sense  and  benevolence,  proposed 
in  the  course  of  the  evening,  his  introducing  me  to  a 
shrewd  old  neighbour  of  his,  as  a  relation  who  lived  on 
some  far  distant  mountain,  and  who  had  been  long  ab- 
sent. I  readily  assented  to  the  proposition,  and  we  both 
agreed  upon  the  parts  which  we  were  to  act.  Owing, 
however,  to  an  unnatural  performance  on  my  part,  or  to 
some  other  cause,  the  neighbour  detected  the  deception. 
But  the  assay  resulted  in  considerable  amusement;  and 
after  drinking  to  the  health  of  each  other,  the  Doctor 
and  myself  left  the  old  gentleman  to  exult  in  his 
penetration. 

At  3  o'clock  the  next  morning,  I  was  awakened  by  the 
rich  and  lofty  notes  of  the  bugle-horn,  and  entertained  by 
several  superb  martial  songs.  At  day  light  we  sat  down 
to  a  good  breakfast ;  and  immediately  after  I  resumed  my 
march. 

Amidst  all  these  pleasant  circumstances,  my  dogs  had 
accidentally  been  neglected;  and  seeing  their  master  fare 
so  well,  they  at  length  took  the  liberty  to  help  themselves. 
The  larder  of  Mrs.  S.  being  open,  they  espied  there  a  large 
pan  of  baked  pork  and  beans;  and  without  ceremony, — 
or  knife  and  fork  divided  the  former  between  them ;  leav- 
ing the  beans  for  those  who  were  less  carniverous.  After 
this  broad  hint  on  then-  part,  the  lady  of  the  house  fed 
them  to  their  heart's  content. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  \  3 1 

[34]  During  my  tour,  thus  far,  I  formed  many  valuable 
acquaintances. 

Here  I  may  remark  that  from  Albany  to  the  remote  in- 
terior of  New- York,  there  is,  generally  speaking,  but  little 
hospitality;  and  the  love  of  money  there  displays  itself  in 
the  high  prices  which  are  charged  for  provisions.  Im- 
mense profits  are  realized  by  the  retailer  at  the  expense  of 
the  traveller.  I  have  always  noticed  in  my  travels,  that 
the  newer  a  settlement  is,  the  more  prevalent  is  hospitality. 
This  great  virtue  is  much  more  conspicuous  among  the 
poor,  than  among  those  who  possess  more  than  a  compe- 
tency. Here  avarice  begins  its  reign;  and  every  virtue  is 
blasted  by  its  poisonous  influence. 

In  this  part  of  the  country,  and  in  many  other  places  I 
often  found  it  convenient  to  stop  at  the  log  huts  of  poor 
emigrants.  From  the  inmates  of  these  huts  I  always  ex- 
perienced a  kind  and  generous  welcome;  and  in  almost 
every  case  I  ascertained  that  they  were  from  New-Hamp- 
shire or  Vermont. — They  would  generally  refuse  to  take 
any  compensation  for  their  services;  and  were  so  afraid  of 
violating  the  sacred  principles  of  hospitality,  that  I  could 
only  leave  my  money  upon  their  table,  or  cast  it  as  a  play 
thing  to  their  children.  Oh!  how  many  tutelary  angels 
shield  the  cot  of  the  poor  and  virtuous  man,  whilst  the 
splendid  habitations  of  the  rich  and  dissipated,  receive 
only  the  averted  eye  of  offended  Heaven. 

I  have  omitted  to  mention,  that  whilst  in  Albany  I 
was  informed  that  robberies  had  been  frequently  com- 
mitted on  the  Western  Turnpike.  This  information  ap- 
peared peculiarly  important,  on  account  of  the  frequent 
suggestions  of  people  that  I  probably  had  with  me  a  large 
sum  of  money.  Besides,  war,  which  always  produces  a 
greater  or  less  number  of  abandoned  and  desperate  char- 
acters, having  [35]  recently  ceased,  and  there  being  many 


132  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

dark  and  solitary  tracts  of  wood  on  the  turnpike,  I  thought 
there  was  much  cause  for  apprehension.  I  had,  however, 
previously  concealed  my  money  in  different  parts  of  my 
cloaths,  and  was  careful  to  keep  my  arms  in  a  state  of  prep- 
aration. Fortunately  I  met  with  no  attack.  The  appear- 
ance of  my  arms,  and  the  apparent  fierceness  of  my  dogs, 
were,  probably,  preventatives. 

I  was  frequently  told  too,  that  owing  to  my  mode  of 
dress,  there  would  be  much  danger  of  my  being  shot  by 
the  hunters  in  passing  through  the  bushes.  Many  acci- 
dents, sanctioning  the  idea,  had  from  time  to  time  occurred. 
A  hunter,  not  long  before,  had  killed  a  deer,  and  throwing 
it  upon  his  shoulder  was  proceeding  home.  Another  hunt- 
er, having  an  obscure  view  of  the  deer  through  the  bushes, 
fired  and  killed  the  man.  I  did  not,  however,  experience 
any  injury  from  this  quarter. 

Such  was  the  depth  of  snow  and  such  the  severity  of  the 
weather  during  the  first  month  of  my  tour,  that  no  game 
was  to  be  found  in  the  woods  excepting  a  few  squirrels; 
and  those  only  during  a  momentary  sunshine.  Numer- 
ous as  had  been  the  beasts  of  prey  throughout  the  preced- 
ing fall,  they  seemed  now  to  be  waiting  in  their  dens  for 
the  storms  to  be  overpassed.  All  nature  appeared  to  be 
congealed ;  and  the  tyrant  winter  presented  an  unrelenting 
aspect. 

In  the  remote  parts  of  the  State  of  New- York  provisions 
were  scarce.  There  are  so  many  emigrants  travelling  and 
settling  in  that  quarter  during  winter,  that  want  is  fre- 
quently the  consequence. — The  emigrants,  who  settle  dur- 
ing that  season  of  the  year,  must  be  fed,  for  many  months, 
from  the  common  stock  of  provisions,  before  they  can,  by 
their  labour,  add  to  it.  Some  of  them  have  money,  but 
[36]  money  will  not  save  them  from  want.  Here  we  see  the 
importance  of  the  agricultural  interest,  and,  generally,  of 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  133 

the  productive  power  of  labour.  Agriculture  and  do- 
mestic manufactures  will  render  a  people  perfectly  in- 
dependent. Money  is  of  no  real  consequence  excepting 
when  employed  as  a  circulating  medium;  fancy  however 
has  cherished  for  it  an  irrational  partiality.  Thank 
Heaven !  we  have  no  considerable  mines  of  silver  and  gold 
to  corrupt  our  country;  but  plenty  of  iron  to  plough  her 
fields  and  to  defend  her  liberties. 

Agriculture  is  the  most  natural,  necessary,  and  honour- 
able employment  of  man.  Ignorant  pride  and  vain  folly 
may  represent  it  as  derogatory;  but  in  so  doing  they  show 
how  very  far  they  are  from  true  greatness.  Agriculture 
furnishes  for  vigorous  constitutions  the  most  salutary  ex- 
ercise ;  and  here  the  brightest  geniuses  may  find  ample  em- 
ployment.—  An  unlimited  field  for  experiment  in  many 
branches  of  natural  philosophy  is  here  presented,  and 
there  is  no  sphere  in  life  so  well  calculated  as  this  to  pro- 
mote individual  virtue  and  public  advantage. 

Here  man  is  engaged  in  the  peculiar  work  assigned  him 
by  his  Creator,  and  many  interesting  reflections  naturally 
result  from  it.  The  field  which  he  cultivates  is  his  parent 
earth.  According  to  the  righteous  appointment  of  Heaven, 
he  must  here  obtain  his  bread  by  the  sweat  of  his  brow/un- 
til  he  returns  to  the  dust.  The  employment  naturally  di- 
rects his  thoughts  to  his  origin  and  destinies;  and  impresses 
his  mind  with  a  sense  of  his  mortality,  dependence,  and 
accountability  to  God.  Here  too  he  reflects,  with  peculiar 
advantage,  upon  the  gracious  plan  of  Redemption.  The 
return  of  spring  joyfully  reminds  him  of  the  Resurrection; 
and  in  the  perishing  grain  which  he  has  sown,  he  recog- 
nizes St.  Paul's  similitude  of  this  great  event. 

[37]  The  further  a  man's  employment  is  from  rural  scenes 
and  avocations,  the  further  he  is  from  the  original  dignity 
and  simplicity  of  his  nature.  Here  may  be  acquired  the 


I  34  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

greatest  comparative  degree  of  physical  and  mental  vigour, 
the  noblest  virtues,  the  truest  piety,  the  most  sincere  and 
ardent  patriotism,  the  loftiest  independence  of  character, 
and  all  the  pleasures  which  flow  from  the  sprightliness  of 
the  imagination  and  the  susceptibility  of  the  heart. 

The  great  and  good  of  every  age  have  spoken  in  behalf 
of  agriculture;  and  the  Egyptians  ascribed  the  discovery 
of  it  to  their  gods.  The  worthies  of  Greece  and  Rome 
were  well  acquainted  with  the  plough;  and  Cincinnatus 
left  his  team,  vanquished  the  ^Equi  and  Volsci,  who  were 
besieging  the  Roman  army,  and  then  returned  to  his  be- 
loved employment.  Our  Washington  too,  charmed  his 
pure  and  noble  spirit  with  the  rural  occupations  of  his  en- 
deared Vernon;  and  the  Emperor  of  China  attends,  every 
spring,  to  the  ceremony  of  opening  the  ground,  by  holding 
the  plough  himself. 

In  my  course  to  Niagara  Falls  I  passed  Genesee  river. 
This  river  rises  in  Pennsylvania,  and  enters  Lake  Ontario 
about  eighty  miles  east  of  Niagara  river.  It  contains  sev- 
eral falls,  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  offers 
many  fine  seats  for  mills.  This  river,  and  those  which 
are  connected  with  it  are  generally  sluggish  in  their  motion. 

The  tract  of  country  lying  upon  the  Genessee  is  rich, 
and  well  watered.  The  celebrated  Genessee  Flats  are  sit- 
uated on  the  borders  of  the  river,  and  is  about  twenty 
miles  by  four. 

The  Holland  Purchase  is  a  part  of  the  Genessee  Coun- 
try.18 

Although  I  have  not  yet  surveyed  the  whole  field  of 
domestic  emigration,  I  may,  with  propriety,  introduce  in 
this  place  some  ideas  which  I  [38]  have  heretofore  enter- 
tained upon  the  subject;  these  ideas  having  been  fully 
sanctioned  by  the  experience  of  my  whole  tour.  The 

18  For  the  Holland  Purchase,  see  Buttrick's  Voyages,  ante,  note  4. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  135 

subject  should  be  examined  both  in  a  national  and  indi- 
vidual point  of  view. 

Supposing,  for  a  moment,  that  my  reflections  upon  this 
topic  may  produce  some  effect  upon  the  feelings  and  opin- 
ions of  those  who  are  disposed  to  emigrate,  there  is  little 
or  no  danger  of  lessening  the  interests  of  the  nation,  in  re- 
lation to  it,  by  checking  too  much  the  existing  locomotive 
disposition  of  the  people. 

Dear  as  home  is  to  man,  he  is,  in  his  best  estate,  a  wan- 
derer. An  alien  from  the  purity  and  peace  of  Heaven,  he 
will  sigh  for  other  scenes  until  his  highest  hopes  eventuate 
in  a  habitation  there. 

Upon  this  general  disposition  of  mankind  to  change 
their  views  of  happiness  and  their  place  of  residence,  the 
people  of  the  United  States  have  engrafted  an  unusual  de- 
gree of  enterprise.  This  enterprise  has  at  once  enriched 
and  ennobled  their  country.  Naturally  fond  of  agricul- 
ture, and  fully  sensible  of  its  consequence,  both  in  a  pub- 
lic and  private  point  of  view,  our  citizens  have  combined, 
in  relation  to  this  subject,  the  powerful  influences  of  in- 
clination, interest,  and  patriotism.  But  the  impulse  to 
emigration  under  these  circumstances  may  have  been  too 
great.  When  a  spring  naturally  overflows,  the  supera- 
bundance of  its  water  may  well  be  spared  to  fertilize  the 
adjacent  country;  but  when  some  extraordinary  influence 
produces  an  ebullition  in  the  spring,  it  may,  in  consequence 
of  this  cause,  exhaust  its  own  resources  and  ultimately  be- 
come dry. 

Extraordinary  causes,  in  relation  to  those  subjects  which 
concern  the  growth  of  a  nation,  should  always  be  watched 
and  sometimes  checked.  Under  ordinary  circumstances 
the  natural  operation  of  cause  and  effect  will  keep  every 
thing  within  its  proper  [39]  sphere, —  will  direct  every 
thing  to  its  proper  level. 


i  36  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

With  respect  to  emigrations  from  our  seaboard  to  the 
inland  states  and  territories,  there  is  danger  of  the  strength 
of  the  nation  being,  for  a  time,  lessened.  The  physical 
force  of  a  country  should  always  be  kept  compact.  By 
dividing  its  powers  its  energies  will  be  weakened. 

Such,  with  us,  has  been  the  impetus  of  the  spirit  of  emi- 
gration, that  the  influence  of  example  and  habit,  in  rela- 
tion to  it,  will  continue  to  operate  for  some  time  to  come. 
Indeed  such  is  the  fascinating  nature  of  the  subject,  that 
it  will  always  be  more  or  less  popular;  and  as  to  the  habit 
of  moving  from  place  to  place,  it  is,  in  some,  so  completely 
fixed,  that  after  they  have  passed  through  every  part  of 
the  land  of  promise,  they  will,  for  the  sake  of  one  more 
change,  return  to  the  seaboard  again.  In  a  national 
point  of  view  I  am  far  from  wishing  to  discourage  do- 
mestic emigration;  and  I  am  far  too  from  thinking  that 
it  does  not  frequently  result  in  individual  advantage. 

It  is  essential  to  the  preservation  of  our  free  and  eco- 
nomical institutions,  that  the  seaboard  should  from  time 
to  time  transplant  a  part  of  its  population  to  the  interior. 
The  existence  of  liberty  in  a  state  ultimately  depends,  in 
no  small  degree,  upon  rural  avocations,  and  upon  a  par- 
ticular climate  and  scenery.  In  some  of  our  western 
states  and  territories  liberty  will  exist  for  a  great  length  of 
time.  Transplanted  from  the  seaboard,  their  citizens  will 
acquire  a  new  moral  force,  and  that  force  will  be  cher- 
ished by  the  local  peculiarities  of  their  situation.  These 
states  will  produce  a  happy  balance  between  the  agricul- 
tural and  commercial  interests,  and  prove  at  once  the 
check  and  the  political  salvation  of  the  maratime  states. 

[40]  In  proportion  to  the  population  of  our  maratime 
cities  will  be  their  luxury,  dissipation,  and  indifference  to 
simple  and  rational  modes  of  government.  No  doubt  the 
interests  of  commerce  ought  to  be  cherished;  not,  how- 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  137 

ever,  so  much  because  they  are  essential  to  our  inde- 
pendence and  happiness,  as  because  they  encourage  in- 
dustry at  home  by  furnishing  a  foreign  market  for  surplus 
produce.  The  other  advantages  of  foreign  trade,  both 
literary  and  commercial,  are  not  inconsiderable;  and  they 
ought  to  be  appreciated : —  but  not  without  a  due  refer- 
ence to  the  contaminating  influences  of  foreign  manners 
and  customs.  With  respect  to  manners  and  customs, 
other  nations,  in  their  intercourse  with  us,  are,  no  doubt, 
gainers;  but  we,  I  am  satisfied,  experience  from  them 
much  injury.  It  may  be  added,  that  a  certain  extent  of 
population  in  our  sea  ports  is  essential  to  that  degree  of 
commercial  enterprise,  which  will  set  afloat  our  surplus 
capital ;  and  therefore  we  ought  to  view  the  spirit  of  emi- 
gration in  relation  to  this  particular. 

I  may  improve  this  opportunity  to  make  a  few  addi- 
tional reflections  upon  foreign  commerce.  The  advo- 
cates of  this  interest,  under  the  pretence  of  attaching  to  it 
a  consequence  only  equal  to  that  of  agriculture,  have 
laboured  to  prove  that  the  former  is  even  paramount  to 
the  latter, —  that  the  country  is  almost  exclusively  a  com- 
mercial nation.  One  of  these  advocates,  in  a  speech  de- 
livered in  Congress  in  January  1814,  advances  such  a 
principle.  Much  as  I  admire  the  sublime  complexion  of 
his  intellect,  and  the  enlightened  majesty  of  his  heart,  I 
must  say  that  his  position  is  altogether  exceptionable. — 
He  observes,  in  the  above  mentioned  speech,  that  the 
principal  motive  for  adopting  the  constitution  of  the  gen- 
eral government  was  the  protection  and  extension  of  com- 
merce. So  far  from  this  being  the  [41]  case,  the  great  and 
principal  conditions  and  objects  of  our  national  compact, 
were  individual  security  and  the  advancement  of  the  true 
interests  of  the  country.  It  must  have  been  well  known, 
that  a  state  of  things  might  exist  which  would  render  an 


138  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

abandonment  of  foreign  commerce  absolutely  necessary 
to  the  preservation  of  our  liberties, —  to  the  protection  of 
individual  right,  and  even  the  very  existence  of  the 
nation. 

But  I  go  much  further.  Our  commercial  interests  are 
of  far  less  consequence  than  those  of  agriculture.  The 
former  are  not  essential  to  our  independence  and  comfort. 
They  do  not  even  exist  until  agriculture  has  so  far  ad- 
vanced as  to  furnish  more  than  sufficient  provisions  for 
the  support  of  the  whole  community;  not  only  for  those 
who  labour  in  agriculture,  but  also  for  labourers  in  manu- 
factures and  other  mechanical  employments;  for  those 
who  are  engaged  in  domestic  commerce;  for  those  who 
are  engaged  in  promoting  intellectual  improvement; 
and  lastly,  for  those  who,  owing  to  infancy,  old  age,  dis- 
ease and  other  causes  are  unable  to  work.  When  this 
state  of  things  commences,  and  not  before,  foreign  com- 
merce begins  its  career.  Here  the  people  inquire  what 
they  shall  do  with  their  surplus  produce,  and  being  unable 
to  find  a  market  for  it  at  home,  endeavour  to  find  for  it 
a  foreign  market.  Hence  arise  foreign  commercial  rela- 
tions. As  to  the  luxuries  which  foreign  commerce  pro- 
duces, our  constitution  certainly  never  made  provision  for 
their  introduction. 

It  remains  for  me  to  notice  the  subject  of  domestic  emi- 
gration, in  relation  to  the  individual  advantage  which  may 
arise  from  it. 

The  views  of  mankind  with  respect  to  the  sources  of 
true  happiness  are,  generally  speaking,  very  erroneous. 
This  effect  arises  principally  from  inconsideration.  [42] 
We  see  enough  in  the  Divine  Word  in  the  book  of  nature, 
and  in  the  suggestions  of  conscience  to  convince  us,  that 
our  relation  to  a  future  state  of  existence  is  of  wonderful 
import.  The  first  questions  which  we  should  ask  our- 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  139 

selves  are: — what  was  the  design  of  our  creation?  and 
what  duties  does  this  design  inculcate  ?  As  far  as  is  con- 
sistent with  these  great  views,  man  may  innocently  con- 
sult his  inclinations.  Indeed  they  were  given  for  the  two- 
fold purpose  of  rational  gratification,  and  to  furnish  him 
with  an  opportunity,  when  their  indulgence  would  be 
irrational,  to  display  his  virtue  by  self-controul.  The 
more  strictly  we  conform  to  that  purity  of  heart  and 
holiness  of  life  which  the  gospel  inculcates,  the  more  ex- 
alted will  be  our  nature,  the  higher  our  standard  of  happi- 
ness, and  the  more  perfect  our  preparation  for  the  society 
of  Heaven. 

The  present  life  is,  no  doubt,  a  season  of  probation. 
Here  we  are  to  form  a  character  for  a  future  and  perma- 
nent state  of  existence.  Consistently  with  the  endeavour 
duly  to  improve  our  intellectual,  moral,  and  religious 
nature,  it  is  important  for  man  to  exert  himself  to  obtain 
a  comfortable  support.  Generally  speaking,  however,  this 
should  be  the  limit  of  his  views.  It  is  most  consistent 
with  the  uncertain  tenure  of  human  life,  and  most  conge- 
nial to  the  growth  of  virtue  and  the  production  of  happi- 
ness. A  wish  to  acquire  a  great  estate  can  be  sanctioned 
only  by  an  equal  desire  to  employ  it  in  effecting  charitable 
purposes,  and  in  aiding  institutions  which  have  in  view 
individual  and  public  advantage.  The  desire"  of  great 
wealth  for  other  purposes  is  criminal.  It  is  dictated  by 
a  spirit  of  luxury,  by  pride,  by  extravagance,  by  a  spirit 
of  vain  competition,  or,  what  is  worse  than  all,  by  avarice. 
As  for  leaving  great  estates  to  children,  no  wise  or  kind 
parent  will  ever  do  it.  Industry  will,  generally  speaking, 
produce  a  [43]  competency;  and  economy  will,  in  time, 
convert  that  competency  into  wealth. 

But  I  must  speak  more  directly  to  the  point. —  From 
motives  of  patriotism  one  may  emigrate  from  the  east  to 


1 40  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

the  west,  especially  to  a  frontier  state  or  territory;  and 
he  will,  perhaps,  find  in  this  removal  great  individual 
profit.  The  circumstances  of  men  are  various.  Emigra- 
tions are  sometimes  advantageous  and  sometimes  other- 
wise; —  advantageous  in  point  of  health  and  in  point  of 
property.  Many,  however,  lose  both  instead  of  gaining 
either  by  a  removal.  There  are  many  erroneous  views 
entertained  upon  this  subject:  and  it  is,  principally,  be- 
cause men  are  governed,  in  relation  to  it,  more  by  feelings 
than  by  ideas.  The  subject  interests  the  imagination;  and 
pleasing  anticipations  upon  a  new  topic,  always  afford 
more  satisfaction,  than  the  actual  possession  of  that  which 
is  as  valuable  as  the  object  itself,  the  future  possession  of 
which  is  anticipated.  Many  persons  by  emigration  have 
become  rich;  but  does  it  follow  that  they  might  not  have 
become  so  at  home  ?  Many  too  by  moving  from  place  to 
place  have  become  poor.  Had  they  been  stationary  they 
might  at  least  have  secured  to  themselves  a  competency. 
There  are  almost  innumerable  advantages  and  disad- 
vantages in  relation  to  this  subject,  and  the  balance  must 
be  stricken  according  to  the  circumstances  of  each  indi- 
vidual. Those  whose  object  is  to  acquire  a  good  living 
by  their  industry,  and  who  can  obtain  this  at  home,  will 
act  unwisely  in  changing  their  situation.  They  cannot 
more  fully  gratify  their  views  by  a  removal:  and  by  such 
a  step  they  abandon  what  is  necessary  and  certain  for 
what  is  at  once  unnecessary  and  precarious.  They  might, 
perhaps,  obtain  abroad,  with  less  labour,  what  they  now 
obtain  at  home;  but  they  are  not  aware  how  essential  in- 
dustry is  to  their  happiness.  [44]  It  gives  a  zest  to  food, 
and  sleep,  and  social  intercourse;  and  also  furnishes  sub- 
stantial rest;  —  a  luxury  of  which  the  idle  are  ignorant. 
Some  have  been  so  imprudent  as  to  abandon  the  home  of 
their  infancy,  where  the  comforts  of  life  could  have  been 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  141 

obtained  by  a  good  degree  of  industry.  What  were  the 
consequences?  perhaps  wealth;  —  but  it  was  unneces- 
sary;—  perhaps  poverty,  disease  and  premature  death. 
Some  too,  even  in  advanced  life,  and  after  spending  their 
time  in  clearing  a  tract  of  land,  so  as  to  render  it  fertile 
and  easy  of  cultivation,  have  sacrificed  a  comfortable  and 
pleasant  old  age  for  new  perils  and  labours  in  the  western 
wilds. 

The  great  complaint  of  the  people  of  the  east  is,  that 
their  agricultural  labours  are  great  and  their  crops  small. 
This  declaration  is,  in  some  degree,  correct;  but  its  truth 
arises,  principally,  from  our  cultivating  too  much  land. 
And  yet  we  are  ready  to  make  great  sacrifices  for  the  pur- 
pose of  obtaining  vast  tracts  in  the  west.  It  is  admitted 
that  the  land  of  the  west  is,  generally  speaking,  more 
fertile  than  ours;  but  it  does  not  follow  that  it  will  always 
be  so,  or  that  ours  may  not  be  rendered  sufficiently  fertile. 
New  land  is  always  most  productive.  It  has  been  enrich- 
ing itself  for  ages.  But  its  fertility  will,  upon  being  culti- 
vated, become  less.  We  see  the  truth  of  these  remarks  in 
the  cultivation  of  our  own  new  lands.  But  I  will  not  con- 
ceal the  fact,  that  the  western  lands  are  naturally  more 
fertile  than  those  of  the  east.  Some  of  the  former  are 
almost  inexhaustibly  rich;  but  others  of  them  will,  in 
time,  become  poor;  and  then  will  not  be  so  easily  rendered 
fertile  as  those  of  the  east.  The  eastern  land  too  is 
stronger,  more  durable,  retains  moisture  longer,  and  of 
course  more  easily  preserves  its  fertility.  This  is  particu- 
larly the  case  in  its  comparison  with  the  land  of  Kentucky. 
That  State  is  exposed  [45]  to  great  drouth.  Its  pan  being 
limestone,  and  its  soil  consisting  of  loam,  but  little  rain  is 
imbibed,  and  that  little  is  soon  lost  through  the  pores  of 
the  limestone,  and  by  evaporation.  To  the  great  quanti- 
ties of  limestone  in  Kentucky,  its  caves  and  petrefactions 


142  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

are  to  be  attributed.  Moisture  is  absolutely  necessary  to 
vegetation.  The  richest  land  without  it  is  entirely  unpro- 
ductive. Upon  this  principle  it  is  decidedly  injurious  to 
deprive  land  of  its  small  stones.  They  not  only  cause  it 
to  retain  moisture;  but,  by  keeping  it  light,  enable  it  to 
receive  much  rain.  They  also  render  the  earth  warm,  and 
admit  into  it  the  necessary  quantity  of  air.  By  depriving 
land  of  its  stones  the  earth  falls  into  a  solid  mass,  and  the 
consequence  is,  that  it  imbibes  but  a  small  portion  of  rain. 
The  stones  of  our  fields  should  be  rolled  in  as  soon  as  the 
grain  is  sowed.  On  the  surface  they  will  be  useless,  and 
very  troublesome. 

I  have  suggested,  that  we  cultivate  too  much  land  to 
render  agriculture  profitable.  I  speak  in  relation  to  the 
means  which  we  employ  for  fertilizing  our  land.  Much 
may  be  done  without  the  aid  of  manure;  but  the  use  of 
this  article  is  the  most  ready  and  efficient  mode  of  render- 
ing the  cultivation  of  the  earth  profitable.  Instead,  how- 
ever, of  increasing  this  article  by  compost,  we  misapply 
that  which  is  incident  to  our  farms.  By  spreading  a  small 
quantity  of  manure  upon  a  large  piece  of  poor  land,  it  is 
almost  entirely  lost ;  in  as  much  as  it  remains  in  an  inac- 
tive state.  There  is  not  a  sufficient  quantity  to  give  an 
impetus  to  the  cold  and  barren  earth  with  which  it  is 
mixed.  This  is  one  great  cause  of  poor  crops;  and  the 
great  surface  over  which  the  labour  of  the  husbandman  is 
spread  is  the  principal  ground  of  the  excessive  labour  of 
which  he  complains.  Should  the  farmer  plough  [46]  only 
as  much  land  as  he  could  highly  manure,  his  labour  would 
be  comparatively  small,  his  crops  great,  and  his  land  con- 
stantly improving.  By  this  mode  of  proceeding  the  crops 
would  not  exhaust  the  land;  and  the  quantity  of  manure 
upon  it,  beyond  what  is  necessary  to  the  production  of 
the  crops,  would,  by  its  fermentation,  fertilize  and  render 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  143 

of  the  nature  of  compost  the  whole  cultivated  surface. 
Such  land  may,  with  a  trifling  expense,  be  kept  very  rich. 
Whilst  this  process  is  operating  upon  a  part  of  the  poor 
lands  of  a  farm,  the  residue  of  them  may  lie  fallow,  or  be 
fertilized  by  ploughing  in  such  green  crops  as  may  be 
produced  upon  a  lean  soil. 

The  extraordinary  means  of  enriching  land  are  numer- 
ous. A  little  reflection  upon  the  most  common  principles 
of  philosophy  will  point  them  out.  The  elements,  acting 
upon  each  other,  are  constantly  producing  effects,  and 
the  latter  operate  as  causes  in  the  production  of  effects 
more  remote.  Different  soils,  and  different  manures,  and 
different  crops  must  all  be  connected  according  to  their 
respective  and  relative  natures. 

The  materials  for  making  compost  upon  a  farm  are 
almost  innumerable;  and  leisure  hours,  which  would 
otherwise  be  lost,  may  be  employed  in  collecting  them. 
Another  extraordinary  mean  of  fertilizing  the  earth  is  fre- 
quent ploughing.  This  work,  especially  when  performed 
at  particular  times,  is  highly  useful.  It  separates  the  un- 
productive masses,  and  opens  the  soil  more  fully  to  the 
impregnations  of  that  vegetable  nourishment  which  is 
contained  in  rain,  dew,  and  even  the  air  itself.  Ploughing 
land  when  the  dew  is  on  the  ground  is  very  beneficial.  I 
may  add,  that  the  ploughing  in  of  stubble  as  soon  as  the 
crops  are  off,  is  of  much  consequence. 

[47]  Wet  land  should  be  drained,  and,  when  practicable, 
land  comparatively  high  should  be  overflown.  The  soil 
of  the  former  should,  in  some  cases,  be  spread  upon  the 
latter;  and  that  of  the  latter  applied  in  the  same  way  upon 
the  former.  Overflowing  may  sometimes  be  employed 
conveniently  and  to  much  advantage. 

I  have  said  that  moisture  is  absolutely  necessary  to 
vegetation.  This  country  is  rather  subject  to  drouth  than 


144  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

otherwise;  and  hence,  principally,  arises  the  occasional 
failure  of  our  crops.  One  cause  of  the  great  fertility  of 
England  is  the  frequent  rains  there.  With  us  there  is 
more  rain  than  in  Great-Britain;  but  in  the  latter  place 
it  falls,  not  in  torrents  as  is  sometimes  the  case  with  us, 
but  in  gentle  and  more  frequent  showers.  Wet  seasons 
are  never  unfruitful. 

Another  mode  of  rendering  land  productive  is  by  a 
change  of  crops.  Different  plants  require  a  different  kind 
of  nourishment,  and  a  piece  of  land  may  contain  a  greater 
quantity  of  one  kind  of  vegetable  food  than  of  another. 
All  crops,  in  a  greater  or  less  degree,  consume,  in  time, 
their  peculiar  food;  and  of  course  require  a  change  of 
situation.  To  make  this  change,  among  the  variety  of 
crops  on  a  farm,  with  judgment,  requires  both  theoretical 
and  practical  knowledge  in  husbandry. 

A  change  of  seed  also  is  of  consequence.  Seed  carried 
from  the  north  to  the  south,  and  likewise  from  the  east  to 
the  west  will  do  better  than  that  which  comes  from  a 
milder  climate.  Sowing  seed  upon  the  ground  which 
produced  it  is  highly  disadvantageous.  By  a  change  of 
seed  the  action  of  the  soil  upon  it  is  more  animated.  Im- 
provement of  seed  too  in  agriculture  is  of  consequence. 
That  which  is  first  ripe  and  most  perfect  should  be 
selected;  [48]  and  the  mode  of  preserving  it  requires 
attention. 

With  respect  to  the  raising  of  cattle  too  we  act  as  un- 
wisely as  we  do  in  relation  to  the  cultivation  of  our  land. 
According  to  the  limited  productions  of  our  farms,  our 
cattle  are  too  numerous.  We  lose  one  half  of  the  food 
appropriated  for  them,  by  applying  it  to  too  great  a 
number.  In  many  cases  our  cattle  are  not  worth  so 
much  in  the  spring  of  the  year  as  they  were  in  the  pre- 
ceeding  fall.  Our  swine,  in  particular,  are  kept  poor  until 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  145 

the  crops  come  in,  and  then  it  costs  to  fatten  them  three 
times  as  much  as  they  are  worth:  the  consequence  is  that 
the  farmer,  before  another  fall,  complains  of  his  want  of 
corn. 

Great  improvements  may  be  made  in  relation  to  the 
breed  and  feeding  of  cattle.  A  change  of  stock  is  as  im- 
portant here  as  in  agriculture.  It  may  also  be  observed, 
that  present  profit  is  too  frequently  consulted  at  the  ex- 
pense of  ultimate  loss.  The  farmer  sells  all  his  best  cattle 
to  the  butcher,  or  kills  them  for  his  own  use,  before  their 
real  value  is  suffered  to  develope  itself,  and  to  eventuate 
in  the  improvement  of  his  stock. 

The  agricultural  societies  established  in  New-England, 
and  in  other  states  of  the  Union,  within  a  few  years,  have 
produced  much  individual  and  public  benefit.  That  of 
Massachusetts  is  rendering  her,  with  respect  to  this  sub- 
ject, the  rival  of  Great-Britain.  New-Hampshire  is  doing 
something  in  this  way;  and  her  legislature  should  imme- 
diately encourage  her  agricultural  interests. 

As  to  the  means  of  increasing  our  crops,  much  more 
might  be  offered ;  but  the  nature  of  this  work  will  not  war- 
rant it.  Although  many  of  our  farmers  do  well,  all  might 
do  better;  and  it  cannot  be  denied  that  many  of  us  are 
very  negligent  agriculturalists.  How  many  of  our  lands 
are  [49]  ploughed  only  once,  and  that  very  imperfectly ! — 
How  many  of  our  pastures  are  injured  by  the  promiscuous 
range  of  swine,  geese,  and  every  other  creature  on  a  farm  L 
How  many  of  our  orchards  are  left  for  years  uncultivated 
and  unpruned!  How  many  of  our  mowing  fields  are, 
both  in  the  spring  and  fall,  shamefully  poached  and 
grubbed  by  horses  and  sheep,  as  well  as  horned  cattle  I 
How  much  neglect  is  there  in  the  collection  of  fodder, 
and  how  much  waste  in  the  application  of  it !  With  us 
there  are  many  errors  to  be  corrected,  and  many  improve- 


146  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

ments  to  be  made.  This  topic  is  important,  interesting, 
and  exhaustless;  but  I  must  dismiss  it,  after  making  a  very 
few  additional  remarks.  As  to  our  orchards,  and  the  graz- 
ing of  our  mowing  fields  in  the  spring,  I  trust  that  we  shall 
speedily  abandon  practices  which  are  so  disgraceful  and 
so  injurious.  The  most  vigorous  roots  of  grass  shoot 
first.  Those  our  cattle  crop.  The  future  growth  is 
feeble;  and  grass,  which  springs  after  the  season  for  it,  is 
always  puny.  With  respect  to  our  orchards,  we  seem  to 
think  that  they  require  no  cultivation;  that  we  have  only 
to  set  down  the  trees,  and  all  will  be  well:  but  the  nature 
of  things  should  convince  us  of  the  irrationality  of  our 
views  upon  this  point.  Trees  require  manuring  and  cul- 
tivating as  much  as  any  other  plant. 

I  return  to  the  comparison  between  the  east  and  the 
west.  However  high  may  be  the  reputation  of  [50]  the 
western  lands,  they  are  decidedly  inferior  to  ours,  as  a  graz- 
ing country.  Another  advantage  which  we  possess  over 
the  west  is,  the  superiority  of  our  market.  There  is  a 
much  greater  disproportion  between  the  prices,  than  be- 
tween the  crops  of  the  two  sections  of  the  country.  Our 
crops  are  something  less;  but  the  prices  which  we  obtain 
for  our  produce  are  much  higher  than  those  of  the  west. 
As  to  the  prices  too,  of  many  articles,  such  as  clothing  and 
groceries,  the  advantage  is  with  us;  the  people  of  the 
west  being  obliged  to  pay  for  the  expense  of  transporta- 
tion, and  also  the  profits  of  the  western  retailer. 

In  point  of  health,  the  air  of  the  west  is  not  so  salubrious 
as  that  of  the  east.  The  country  being  still  covered  with 
forests,  its  streams  are  noxious;  and  being  too,  a  level 
country,  its  evaporations  are  great.  These  circum- 
stances produce  diseases  of  a  peculiar  and  fatal  nature. 
Our  mountains  are  entirely  free  from  them. 

With  respect  to  religious  privileges,  morals,  means  of 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  147 

education,  and  social  intercourse,  the  west  is  at  present, 
and  will  be  for  some  time  to  come,  far  inferior  to  the 
east. 

As  to  relations  and  friends,  which  emigrants  frequently 
leave  behind  them,  every  one  will  judge  for  himself;  but 
surely  to  a  disinterested  and  susceptable  heart,  this  sacri- 
fice is  not  inconsiderable.  When  persons  of  this  cast  of 
character  reflect  upon  the  fleeting  nature  of  time,  its  vicis- 
situdes, and  the  need  which  they  frequently  feel  of  the 
society  and  solace  of  their  friends,  they  will  wish  to  spend 
with  them  the  days  of  their  pilgrimage,  to  participate 
with  them  in  the  little  joys  of  life,  and  to  commune  to- 
gether upon  the  hopes  of  a  better  world. 

In  concluding  my  reflections  upon  the  subject  of  emigra- 
tion, I  may  observe  that  in  no  case  is  it  necessary  [51]  for 
the  people  of  the  east  to  emigrate  to  the  western  country. 
There  is  in  the  former  an  ample  field  for  labour;  and  the 
reward  of  this  labour  is  sufficient  for  every  rational  pur- 
pose of  life.  Whilst  men  complain  of  labour,  they  add  to 
it  by  speculating  upon  foreign  means  of  enjoyment,  when 
at  the  same  time  they  possess  every  source  of  happiness, 
excepting  gratitude  and  contentment.  Many  persons,  by 
extravagance,  become  embarrassed,  and  then  censure  the 
times,  and  complain  of  their  lot  instead  of  applying  to 
industry  and  economy  for  relief.  Economy  will  perform 
wonders.  Nothing  is  more  true  than  the  adage  that  a 
penny  saved  is  a  penny  earned.  The  state  of  things,  for 
several  years  past,  has  been  teaching  us  a  salutary  lesson 
upon  this  subject;  and  all  can  now  live  within  their  in- 
come without  wounding  their  pride.  In  economising, 
however,  we  must  avoid  parsimony,  which  soon  leads  to 
avarice  —  the  source  of  all  crime,  and  all  littleness. 

I  have  already  written  much;  but,  according  to  my 
journal,  it  is  still  February,  I  have  progressed  only  within 


148  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

sixty  miles  of  the  Heights  of  Queenston,  and  the  storms 
of  winter  still  rage. 

In  my  course  through  the  western  parts  of  the  state  of 
New  York,  I  generally  travelled  within  forty  miles  of  Lake 
Ontario.  In  this  part  of  the  country  many  of  the  people 
entertain  strange  notions  respecting  supernatural  agen- 
cies. Solitude,  whilst  it  strengthens  the  mind,  and  forti- 
fies the  heart  of  the  well-informed,  renders  the  ignorant 
timid  and  superstitious.  The  whisper  of  their  forests,  and 
the  echo  of  their  hills,  alarm  their  unenlightened  imagina- 
tions. Those  inhabitants  of  the  west,  of  whom  I  am  now 
speaking,  believe  in  witchcraft,  and  often  suppose  it  the 
source  of  disease  both  in  man  and  beast.  Whilst  on  the 
borders  of  Ontario,  I  stopped  for  a  few  moments  at  a  log 
hut  where  there  was  a  man  in  a  convulsion  [52]  fit.  Dur- 
ing the  operation  of  the  malady,  my  attention  was  attracted 
by  the  conversation  of  two  young  women  upon  the  sub- 
ject. One  of  them  observed  that  if  a  garment  of  the  man 
should  be  taken  off  and  thrown  into  the  fire,  the  fit  would 
leave  him,  and  never  again  return.  The  other  assented 
to  the  idea;  but  the  prescription  was  not  attended  to. 
Perhaps  they  were  afraid  of  being  bewitched  themselves. 
It  is  a  very  common  idea  too,  in  the  remote  parts  of  New- 
York,  that  if  a  man  should  shoot  an  owl  with  his  rifle, 
it  would  be  rendered  so  crooked  as  never  to  throw  ball 
true  again. 

I  may  here  say  a  word  of  the  back- woodsmen.  They 
are  hardy,  active,  industrious,  and  in  the  employment  of 
the  axe,  wonderfully  strong  and  dexterous.  But,  with 
respect  to  manners,  some  of  them  are  no  less  rude  than 
the  wilds  which  they  inhabit. 

The  upper  part  of  the  state  of  New  York  is,  compara- 
tively, a  wilderness.  There  are  here  many  Indian  re- 
serves. They  are  solitary  places;  they  are  dark  spots  on 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  149 

the  face  of  civilization.  The  tawny  inhabitants  of  these 
gloomy  forests  generally  establish  themselves  in  the  most 
remote  situations,  and  render  the  access  to  them  indirect 
and  difficult.  Whenever  I  entered  their  villages,  they 
seemed,  by  their  manner  towards  each  other,  to  say: 
"This  civil  wretch  has  found  out  our  retreat."  There  is 
a  shyness  and  wildness  in  their  aspect,  no  less  significant 
than  such  a  declaration.  No  cause  of  wonder  is  it,  that 
these  persecuted  beings  look  with  a  jealous  eye  upon  the 
descendants  of  those  Europeans,  who  drove  their  ancestors 
from  the  pleasant  regions  of  the  east.  They  see  no  end  to 
the  avarice,  the  claims,  or  the  progress  of  white  men; 
and  view  themselves  between  the  horrors  of  civilization, 
and  the  illimitable  expanse  of  the  Pacific  ocean. 

[53]  Barbarous  as  are  the  Indians  of  North  America, 
they  possess  much  greatness,  and  many  virtues.  Consider- 
ing their  prejudices  against  us,  which  prejudices  are  inci- 
dent to  their  education,  and  by  no  means  groundless,  they 
evince  much  forbearance,  and  even  friendship  towards  us. 

Near  one  of  the  Indian  reserves,  I  met  five  of  these  chil- 
dren of  nature.  As  I  had  not  seen  one  for  fifteen  years 
before,  I  was  much  interested  in  their  appearance.  In 
approaching  them  I  presented  a  grave  but  friendly  aspect. 
Their  gravity  at  first  exceeded  mine,  but  they  soon  became 
rather  sociable.  After  some  little  conversation  we  parted, 
not,  however,  until  they  had  taken  much  notice  of  my 
"varm  drase."  In  the  course  of  a  few  hours,  I  passed 
what  is'called  an  Indian  opening.  It  was  an  exposed  situ- 
ation of  many  miles  in  extent;  the  weather  was  severe, 
the  snow  deep,  and  the  wind  continually  whirled  it  about 
the  unsheltered  traveller. 

Not  knowing  the  extent  of  this  opening,  and  fearing 
that  night  might  find  me  without  fuel,  or  materials  for  a 
tent,  I  exerted  myself  to  reach  in  season,  the  adjoining 


150  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

wood.  By  this  means  I  became  fatigued,  and  very  much 
in  want  of  refreshment.  I  had  no  provisions  with  me, 
and  indeed  no  means  of  carrying  any.  I  soon  perceived, 
in  the  edge  of  the  forest,  a  small  log  hut;  but  poverty 
resided  there,  and  I  could  obtain  only  an  ear  of  corn ;  this, 
however,  I  found  palatable  and  nutritious.  Dyonysius19 
did  not  like  the  fare  of  the  public  tables,  under  the  institu- 
tions of  Lycurgus,  because,  as  the  cook  said,  it  was  not 
seasoned  with  fatigue  and  hunger.  Towards  evening,  as 
I  was  travelling  through  a  dark  wood,  I  discovered  what  I 
presumed  to  be  an  Indian  trail,  and,  for  the  sake  of  ad- 
venture, concluded  to  follow  it.  It  snowed  fast,  darkness 
was  approaching,  and  [54]  the  wilderness  presented  a 
dreary  aspect.  Had  not  my  heart  been  afraid  of  me,  it 
would  have  communicated  a  secret  alarm  to  my  imagina- 
tion, and  then  I  should  have  seen  around  me  a  thousand 
ambuscades.  But  I  had  so  often  cried  down  to  its  con- 
temptible obtrusiveness,  that  it  feigned,  at  least,  a  tranquil 
mood. 

The  snow  was  deep,  and  the  track  exceedingly  serpen- 
tine; so  that  I  seemed,  occasionally,  to  be  travelling  back 
to  the  point  at  which  I  commenced  the  adventure.  It, 
however,  finally  led  me  over  a  gradual  descent  into  a 
dark  plain.  The  first  evidence  which  I  had  of  there 
being  human  habitations  here,  was  a  few  sticks  of  recently 
cut  wood  piled  above  the  snow.  Soon  after,  I  heard  the 
distant  bay  of  dogs.  At  length  I  came  in  open  view  of  a 
large  collection  of  wigwams.  It  was  now,  however,  so 
dark,  and  it  snowed  so  fast,  that  I  could  only  see  ob- 
scurely the  objects  which  presented  themselves.  But 
upon  going  nearer,  my  attention  was  arrested  by  the 
appearance  of  many  Indians,  going  in  their  blankets, 
from  several  of  the  huts  to  a  long  and  low  building,  which 

18  The  tyrant. —  EVANS. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  151 

I  afterwards  ascertained  was  their  council  house.  Think- 
ing that  I  should  here  have  a  good  opportunity  to  see 
many  of  the  Indians  together,  I  knocked  at  the  door, 
lifted  the  latch,  and  entered.  I  made  a  slight  bow,  and 
took  off  my  cap.  They  presented  me,  in  return,  a  serious 
and  unmoved  aspect,  but  offered  me  a  seat.  Soon  after, 
I  thought  that  I  perceived  in  them  some  degree  of  timidity. 
They  had,  within  a  few  days,  been  performing  some  reli- 
gious ceremonies,  and  were,  probably,  unusually  supersti- 
tious. They  had  been  wearing  masks,  for  the  purpose  of 
driving  the  evil  spirit  from  their  village;  and,  perhaps, 
they  began  to  think  that  they  had  not  affected  their  object. 
I  endeavoured,  however,  to  render  my  society  agreeable 
[55]  to  them.  When  I  entered  the  council  house,  there 
were  about  fifty  or  sixty  persons  there.  The  building 
was  about  eighty  feet  long,  and  about  twelve  or  fourteen 
wide.  Across  the  beams  overhead  were  several  poles, 
hanging  from  which  were  some  traces  of  mouldy  corn; 
and  on  each  side  of  the  building  were  benches  for  seats. 
There  was  no  floor  to  the  house,  and  at  each  end  of  it  there 
was,  upon  the  ground,  a  large  council  fire.  At  a  little  dis- 
tance from  these,  there  were  two  parties  engaged  in  a  war- 
dance.  This  is  a  custom  which  these  Indians  will  not 
relinquish.  Some  of  them  were  naked,  and  many  of  them 
covered  with  ornaments.  They  wore  strings  of  trinkets 
around  their  ankles,  the  object  of  which  appeared  to  be  to 
produce  music  in  dancing.  They  also  had  much  jewelry 
in  their  ears  and  noses.  In  their  war  dances,  they  imitate 
every  part  of  an  engagement:  the  onset,  retreat  of  the 
enemy,  pursuit,  &c.  Here  the  young  warrior  acquires 
a  martial  spirit,  and  the  love  of  fame;  and  here  too  the 
aged  veteran  reminds  his  tribe  of  what  he  has  done,  and 
of  what  his  spirit  tells  him  he  could  do  again.  During 
the  dances,  I  was  much  interested  in  the  appearance  of  a 


152  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

youth,  a  son  of  a  chief,  whose  zeal  for  his  nation  caused 
him,  in  the  feigned  pursuit  of  the  enemy,  to  leap  over 
the  prescribed  circle  of  the  dance,  into  the  fire.  An 
old  and  decrepit  chief  too,  here  evinced  no  less  devo- 
tion to  his  country.  His  appearance  excited  admiration 
and  pity.  He  was  emaciated  by  disease,  scarred  in  battle, 
and  bent  with  the  weight  of  years.  He  evinced  in  his 
efforts  the  greatest  energy  of  spirit,  whilst  such  was  his  de- 
crepitude that  he  could  not  lift  his  eyes  from  the  ground. 
His  trinkets  rattled  upon  his  aged  limbs,  and  his  wheezing 
lungs  sounded  in  his  hollow  trunk.  Poor  child  of  nature ! 
—  Heaven  careth  for  thee ! 

[56]  The  dances  commenced  with  the  beat  of  an  old 
kettle  drum,  and  was  ended  by  a  rap  with  a  club  upon  one 
of  the  benches.  At  the  conclusion  of  each  dance  one  of 
the  chiefs  addressed  the  company,  and  passed  a  piece  of 
tobacco  as  a  token,  which  they  understood  much  better 
than  myself. 

In  the  course  of  an  hour  or  two  after  I  left  this  scene  of 
war,  I  entered  one  of  the  huts.  Many  came  here  to  see 
me,  and  seemed  desirous  to  know  from  whence  I  came, 
whither  I  was  going,  &c.  A  few  of  them  could  imper- 
fectly speak  English.  An  old  chief  attracted,  by  his  ugli- 
ness, my  particular  attention.  He  was  about  sixty  years 
of  age;  his  skin  was  coarse  and  shrivelled,  his  face  was 
covered  with  scars,  one  of  his  eyes  was  protuberant,  blood- 
shot and  sightless,  and  his  hair  was  matted  by  thick  red 
paint,  having  the  appearance  of  blood.  Some  of  the  men 
were  likely,  the  old  women  squallid,  and  the  young  ones 
uninteresting.  The  children,  however,  were  pretty. 

It  is  said  that  the  Indians  of  North  America  treat  their 
wives  with  coldness  and  neglect ;  but  I  am  of  a  different 
opinion.  Certain  it  is  that  their  affection  towards  their 
offspring  is  lively  and  tender. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  153 

After  taking  some  refreshment  I  laid  down  upon  deer 
skins,  by  a  good  fire,  and  slept  well.  I  trusted  to  my  dogs 
for  security.  In  the  morning  I  feasted  upon  venison,  and 
conversed  with  several  of  the  Indians  upon  a  variety  of 
subjects,  particularly  upon  the  good  will  which  ought  to 
prevail  among  mankind,  without  any  reference  to  a  differ- 
ence of  complexion.  The  Indians  were  very  desirous  of 
obtaining  my  dogs,  and  would  have  given  me  a  very  high 
price  for  them.  I  did  not  know  but  that  they  might  wish 
me  out  of  the  way,  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  them. 

[57]  The  appearance  of  the  village  is  interesting.  It  is 
situated  upon  a  plain,  and  contains  about  one  hundred 
huts.  Through  the  centre  of  the  village  runs  a  narrow 
serpentine  creek,  which  affords,  in  summer,  an  abun- 
dance of  fish.  On  one  side  of  the  plain  is  a  thicket  of 
bushes,  and  on  the  other  a  pleasant  rise  of  land.  The 
name  of  the  Creek  is  Tonewanto,  and  that  of  the  tribe 
Tondanwandeys.20 

Although  in  some  little  degree  civilized,  with  respect  to 
arts,  this  tribe  are  still  deplorably  superstitious.  Once  a 
year  they  sacrifice  two  white  dogs  to  their  deity,  after 
painting  them,  decorating  them  with  ribbons,  and  danc- 
ing around  them.  The  sacrifice  consists  in  burning  the 
dogs,  and  scattering  their  ashes  to  the  winds.  The  cere- 
monies generally  continue  fourteen  days,  and  end  in  a 
feast. 

The  Tondanwandeys  worship  the  sun,  and  also  bury 
their  dead  in  the  morning,  that  the  deceased  persons  may 
have  time  before  night  to  reach  their  relations  in  another 
world.  In  the  grave  they  place  the  clothes,  pipe,  dish, 

20  The  modern  name  is  Tonawanda  Creek.  It  rises  near  the  northern  boun- 
dary of  Wyoming  County,  New  York,  and  enters  Niagara  River  ten  miles  north 
of  Buffalo.  The  Indian  village  was  part  of  a  reservation  containing  seventy 
square  miles  retained  by  the  Seneca,  when  in  1797  they  sold  their  lands  to  the 
Holland  Company. —  ED. 


154  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

spoon,  &c.  of  the  deceased,  thinking  that  they  will  be 
wanted  in  a  future  state.  Over  the  graves  of  their  friends 
these  Indians  make  a  hideous  howl.  This  tribe  detest 
lying  and  stealing;  and  those  who  are  innocent  of  these 
crimes  are  supposed  to  go  to  their  relations  in  a  better 
world,  where  there  is  a  milder  sky  and  plenty  of  game. — 
Those,  on  the  contrary,  who  are  guilty  of  these  offences, 
wander  from  place  to  place,  and  seek  their  friends  in  vain. 
These  are  their  ideas  of  future  rewards  and  punishments. 

The  Tondanwandeys  are  much  troubled  with  the  sup- 
posed existence  of  witchcraft;  and  not  long  since  they 
burned  one  of  their  women  upon  the  suspicion  of  her  pos- 
sessing such  power. 

We  need  not  go  to  the  Islands  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  for 
singular  manners  and  customs.  We  find  [58]  them  here, 
and  it  is  evident  that  the  manners  and  customs  of  all  un- 
civilized countries  are,  in  many  particulars,  very  similar. 
Some  of  them  are  dictated  by  nature,  some  arise  from 
accident,  and  some  are  the  effect  of  tradition. 

Notwithstanding  the  ignorance  of  the  Tondanwandeys, 
in  one  particular  they  leave  civilized  men  far  behind 
them:  they  will  not  suffer  any  spirituous  liquors  to  be 
brought  into  their  village.  This  is  an  instance  of  policy 
and  self-denial  of  which  even  Sparta  might  have  been 
proud. 

The  language  of  these  Indians  appears  very  much  like 
that  of  the  savage  tribes  of  the  North  West  Coast  of  Amer- 
ica. Most  of  their  sounds  are  either  guttural  or  nasal; 
but  principally  the  former.  Their  voice  in  conversation 
is  unpleasant;  and  particularly  so  in  singing.  The  tones 
of  the  women,  however,  are  soft  and  agreeable. 

The  language  of  this  tribe  contains  but  a  few  simple 
words;  they  therefore  express  new  ideas  by  combinations 
of  terms,  connected  with  such  gestures,  and  other  accom- 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  155 

paniments  of  speech,  as  comport  with  the  real  or  fancied 
nature  of  the  subject. 

It  is  not  uncommon  for  these  Indians  to  travel  fifty 
leagues  from  home  for  the  purpose  of  hunting.  They  em- 
ploy the  principal  part  of  the  summer  in  the  chase.  In 
autumn  they  again  engage  in  the  business.  This  is  their 
most  important  season,  on  account  of  the  greater  relative 
value  of  furs.  During  the  winter  they  return  home,  laden 
with  peltry,  smoaked  flesh  of  various  kinds,  and  the  fat 
of  bears.  Last  season  they  were  very  successful. 

In  hunting,  Indians  are  exceedingly  industrious  and  in- 
defatigable; but  in  every  other  employment  they  are  very 
indolent.  It  is  probably  owing  to  the  latter  circumstance, 
that  they  suffer  their  women  to  be  the  hewers  of  wood,  and 
the  performers  of  other  servile  work  among  them.  From 
this  practice  has,  [59]  probably,  arisen  the  idea,  that 
Indians  treat  their  wives  with  severity. 

The  belief  of  the  Tondanwandeys,  relative  to  a  future 
state,  is  very  simple  and  interesting.  The  death  of  friends 
is  one  of  the  greatest  trials  of  life;  and  is  calculated  to  pro- 
duce the  happiest  influence  upon  the  human  heart.  It 
alienates  our  affections  from  this  world,  and  directs  them 
to  the  happy  abode  of  departed  spirits.  The  desire  of 
meeting  our  friends  in  a  better  state  of  existence  renders 
Heaven  doubly  dear  to  us;  and  combines  at  once  the  ten- 
derness of  affection,  the  hope  of  glory,  and  the  fear  of  God. 
The  poor  Indian  fears  nothing  so  much  as  the  permanent 
loss  of  his  friends;  and  finding  them  in  a  better  world  con- 
stitutes, with  him,  the  bliss  of  Heaven. 

I  continued  at  the  Indian  village  until  about  noon  of  the 
next  day.  Before  leaving  it,  I  purchased  a  pair  of  deer- 
skin moccasons.  It  having  snowed  the  preceding  night, 
my  path  through  the  wood  was  obliterated.  After  travel- 
ling a  mile  or  two  I  became  completely  bewildered;  and 


156  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

although  I  had  a  pocket  compass  with  me,  I  thought  it 
best  to  return  to  the  village,  and  obtain  some  directions 
from  the  Indians;  but  as  it  was  still  snowing  fast,  my  track 
in  this  direction  could  not,  at  length,  be  distinguished  from 
the  impression  made  by  masses  of  snow,  falling  from  the 
trees.  I  am  unable  to  do  justice  to  the  solitude  of  my  sit- 
uation. It  was  profound  and  instructive.  The  force  of 
thought  and  luxury  of  sentiment,  which  the  wilderness  in- 
spires, is  indiscribable.  Here  man  feels,  at  once,  humble 
and  exalted.  Silence,  with  a  voice  of  thunder,  maintains 
the  cause  of  virtue,  and  the  human  soul  experiences  the 
tranquil  ardour  of  immortal  hopes. 

Much  exertion  at  length  brought  me  to  the  place  where, 
the  evening  before,  I  noticed  the  Indian  [60]  path.  Having 
been  plunging  through  the  snow  for  some  time,  without 
taking  any  notice  of  my  dogs,  I  found,  when  I  stopped  to 
rest,  that  one  of  them  was  missing.  After  waiting  some 
time  for  his  arrival,  I  went  back  about  two  miles,  and 
found  him  lying  in  the  snow.  As  soon  as  I  had  come 
within  a  few  rods  of  him,  he  arose  and  ran  further  from 
me,  but  at  the  same  time  appeared  desirous  of  convincing 
me  of  his  devotion,  by  smiles,  and  the  wagging  of  his  tail. 
By  his  manner  he  seemed  to  say:  I  wish  to  be  faithful,  but 
I  am  weary,  and  see  no  end  to  our  travel.  Lameness, 
however,  was  the  cause  of  his  discouragement.  It  ap- 
peared, that  one  of  his  feet  was  frozen. 

In  the  course  of  a  day  or  two  from  this  time,  I  arrived 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Tuscarora  Indians.  They  are 
situated  on  a  ridge  of  hills,  leading  to  which  there  are  sev- 
eral very  romantic  passes.  I  visited  them  early  in  the 
morning.  At  this  time  the  weather  was  very  cold,  and 
there  was  no  path  through  the  deep  snow  excepting  some 
imperfect  tracks  made  by  themselves.  In  clambering  up 
these  hills,  walking  on  the  narrow  footing  of  their  sides, 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  157 

and  supporting  myself  by  the  little  bushes  which  had 
grown  from  the  veins  of  the  rocks,  my  mind  dwelt  upon 
Switzerland,  and  I  almost  imagined  myself  a  Chamois 
hunter. 

When  I  had  come  within  view  of  the  village,  several 
Indians  were  about  their  wigwams,  but  upon  seeing 
me,  they  all  entered  them,  and  shut  the  doors.  The 
Tuscaroras,  as  well  as  the  Tondanwandeys,  had  been 
sacrificing  their  dogs,  and  wearing  their  masks,  and 
their  imaginations,  no  doubt,  were  rather  lively.  But 
whatever  may  have  been  their  impressions  concern- 
ing me,  they  appeared,  at  first,  very  inhospitable.  I 
went  to  the  door  of  one  of  the  huts,  into  which  I 
saw  several  Indians  enter,  and  knocked;  [61]  but  all 
was  silence.  Not  wishing  to  be  obtrusive,  I  then  went 
to  another;  and  here,  too,  all  was  silence.  I  knew  not 
what  to  make  of  these  appearances,  and  thought  that 
the  Indians  might  be  preparing  to  shoot  me  through  the 
door;  but  feeling  that  I  had,  in  a  state  of  nature,  at  least 
an  imperfect  right  to  seek  under  one  of  their  roofs  a  resting 
place  or  a  drink  of  water,  I  opened  the  door  and  walked 
in.  There  were  here  several  Indians,  and  they  all  ap- 
peared timid.  By  my  manner,  however,  I  soon  convinced 
them  of  my  pacific  disposition;  and  they,  at  length,  be- 
came a  little  sociable. 

There  is  a  missionary  among  the  Tuscaroras;  but  I  un- 
derstand that  he  meets  with  much  opposition  from  them. 
They,  like  other  unchristianized  men,  point  to  the  bad  con- 
duct of  many  of  those,  who  have  always  possessed  the  light 
of  revelation. — This  argument  is  plausible;  and,  to  them, 
it  appears  conclusive.  In  fact,  however,  it  is  very  un- 
sound. There  are  individuals  among  this  tribe,  who 
threaten  the  most  bloody  destruction  upon  those  of  their 
nation,  who  shall  embrace  the  Christian  religion. 


158  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

I  may  add,  that  we  expect  too  much  from  savages,  in 
relation  to  this  subject.  Before  we  attempt  to  make 
Christians  of  them,  we  ought  to  make  them  rational  men : 
we  ought  first  to  persuade  them  to  adopt  the  manners  and 
customs  of  civilization:  we  ought  first  to  teach  them  the 
elements  of  literature.  By  these  means  their  minds  would 
become  so  enlarged  and  strengthened,  as  to  enable  them 
to  understand  the  most  plain  and  simple  truths  of  the  gos- 
pel; and  in  understanding  they  would  appreciate  them. 

In  endeavouring  to  instruct  savages  in  religion  without 
taking  these  previous  steps,  little  or  no  success  can  ration- 
ally be  expected.  The  narrowness  of  their  views  prevents 
them  from  understanding  the  force  of  its  precepts;  and 
therefore  they  will  prefer  [62]  then*  own  superstitions  to 
what  they  consider  ours.  Savages,  with  respect  to  this 
subject,  should  be  treated  like  little  children;  their  letters 
should  first  be  taught  them,  and  then  their  catechism: — 

"God  sees  from  whole  to  part; 
But  human  soul,  must  rise  from  individual  to  the  whole." 

The  Tuscarora  Indians  emigrated  from  North  Carolina 
very  early  in  the  seventeenth  century,  and  were  adopted 
by  the  Oneidas.21  It  is  said  that  they  were,  originally,  of 
the  same  nation. 

Soon  after  my  little  excursion  to  the  Tuscaroras,  I  ar- 
rived at  Lewistown ;  the  place  which  made  so  great  a  figure 
in  the  news-paper  annals  of  the  late  war.22  It  is  a  very 

M  A  brief  account  of  the  Tuscarora  migration  may  be  found  in  Long's  Voy- 
ages, vol.  ii  of  our  series,  note  12. —  ED. 

a  The  first  building  on  the  site  of  Lewiston  was  constructed  by  La  Salle's 
party  in  December,  1678.  In  spite  of  the  protests  of  Governor  Burnet  of  New 
York,  Joncaire  established  (1720)  a  small  French  trading  post  at  this  point, 
"a  kind  of  cabin  of  bark,  where  they  displayed  the  king's  colors."  It  was  soon 
replaced  by  a  blockhouse  inclosed  by  palisades;  but  after  Fort  Niagara  was 
rebuilt  (1726),  this  post  was  allowed  to  fall  into  decay.  Lewiston  was  sur- 
veyed (1798)  for  a  village  site  by  the  Holland  Company,  and  in  1800  contained 
about  ten  families.  It  was  a  port  of  entry  from  1811  to  1863. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  159 

small  village.  Opposite  to  this  place,  across  the  river  Ni- 
agara, are  the  heights  of  Queenstown.  The  portage,  ren- 
dered necessary  by  the  falls  of  Niagara,  commences  at 
this  part  of  the  Straits;  this  being  the  head  of  ship  navi- 
gation from  Lake  Ontario. 

From  Lewistown  I  proceeded  down,  along  the  east  bank 
of  the  river,  to  Fort  Niagara."  Colonel  Pinkney,  who 
commanded  there,  is  a  man  of  a  noble  aspect  and  elegant 
manners.24  From  him  and  his  lady  I  experienced  a  hos- 
pitable and  kind  reception.  Whilst  at  the  Fort  I  was  sur- 
prised to  find  that  the  River  Niagara  and  Lake  Ontario 
never  freeze.  This  is  a  fact  of  which  I  was  ignorant. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Niagara,  is  the  field  where 
Gen.  Brock  fell;  and  on  this  side  is  the  monument  of 
Colonel  Christie:— 

"J  have  seen  a  tomb  by  a  roaring  stream, 
The  dark  dwelling  of  a  chief." 

Colonel  Christie  was  a  truly  brave  and  devoted  soldier; 
and  General  Brock,  though  a  foe,  was  distinguished  for 
conduct,  courage  and  humanity.25  [63]  Fort  Niagara  is  sit- 

n  For  the  early  history  of  Fort  Niagara,  see  Long's  Voyages,  vol.  ii  of  our 
series,  note  19. —  ED. 

M  Ninian  Pinckney,  brother  of  the  statesman  William  Pinckney,  was  born 
at  Baltimore  (1776),  and  entered  the  United  States  army  in  1799.  Serving  as 
aide  to  General  Wilkinson  in  1813,  he  was  promoted  the  following  year  to  the 
rank  of  lieutenant  colonel.  He  also  gained  some  fame  as  a  writer,  by  publishing 
(1809)  Travels  in  the  South  of  France,  which  "set  all  the  idle  world  to  going  to 
France  to  live  on  the  charming  banks  of  the  Loire."  He  died  at  Baltimore  in 
1825. —  ED. 

*  October  13,  1812,  the  American  regular  troops,  Lieutenant-colonel 
Christie  commanding,  crossed  the  Niagara  River,  and  stormed  and  captured 
Queenstown  Heights,  six  miles  from  its  mouth.  General  Brock,  hastening 
with  reinforcements  to  the  aid  of  the  British,  was  killed  and  his  troops  driven 
back.  But  the  American  militia  refused  to  cross  the  river  to  support  the  regu- 
lars and  the  battle  being  renewed,  the  latter  were  finally  surrounded  and  com- 
pelled to  surrender.  For  a  brief  biography  of  General  Brock,  see  Buttrick's 
Voyages,  ante,  note  6. 

Colonel  John  Christie,  born  in  New  York  City  in  1786,  was  a  graduate  of 


160  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

uated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  river  of  this  name,  at  its  junc- 
tion with  Lake  Ontario.  This  is  a  very  important  post. 
The  Fort  was  built  by  the  French  in  1751 ;  and  in  1759  it 
was  taken  by  the  British  General  Johnson,  after  defeating 
the  French  army  near  that  place.  The  vicinity  of  the 
Fort  was,  originally,  the  peculiar  country  of  the  Iroquois, 
or  Six  Nations.  As  to  the  causes  of  Lake  Ontario,  never 
freezing,  it  is  evident  that  they  must  be  local  and  peculiar. 
Lake  Erie,  which  is  not  so  far  north,  freezes  hard.  This 
circumstance  shows,  that  congelation  does  not  depend  so 
much  upon  latitude,  as  upon  other  circumstances.  Ab- 
stractedly it  is  otherwise;  but  relative  to  peculiar  local 
causes  the  position  is  correct.  In  Hudson's  Bay,  the 
weather  in  winter  is  intensely  cold ;  yet  this  place  is  only  in 
the  latitude  of  London.  It  is  generally  supposed  to  be 
intolerably  cold  at  the  North  Pole;  but  the  fact  may  be 
otherwise.  The  idea  arises  from  an  abstract  survey  of 
the  nature  of  latitude,  and  from  connecting  it  with  the 
known  temperature  of  a  particular  situation.  It  is 
known  to  be  very  cold  in  that  part  of  Greenland 
which  lies  on  the  coast  of  Baffin's  Bay;  and  the 
inference  drawn  is,  that  the  weather  is  much  more  so 
at  the  North  Pole.  But,  it  may  as  well  be  said  that 
because  it  is  cold  on  the  river  Piscataqua,  it  is  much 
more  so  on  the  river  Thames;  and  yet  here  the  fact  con- 
tradicts the  argument.  In  some  places  under  the  Equa- 
tor, the  weather  is  as  mild  in  summer  as  it  is  in  New  Eng- 
land; why  therefore,  may  it  not  be  as  warm  in  winter  at  the 
North  Pole,  as  in  the  latter  place  ?  In  point  of  analogy 
the  question  is  unanswerable.  But  there  is  a  more  direct 
argument:  in  some  situations  under  the  equator,  there  is 

Columbia  College,  and  in  1808  gave  up  the  study  of  law  to  enter  the  army. 
For  the  courage  and  skill  displayed  in  the  battle  of  Queenstown  he  was  ad- 
vanced to  the  rank  of  colonel,  March,  1813.  He  died  the  following  July  from 
the  effects  of  a  wound  received  in  the  battle. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  1 6 1 

perpetual  snow.  I  am  aware,  however,  that  this  depends 
upon  altitude.  It  is  said  that  there  is  everlasting  ice  at  the 
North  Pole;  [64]  but  the  assertion  cannot  be  correct.  The 
surface  of  the  North  Pole  consists  either  of  land  or  ocean ; 
if  land  it  cannot  become  ice,  and  if  ocean  it  must  continue 
in  a  liquid  state;  for  no  ocean  has  ever  been  known  to 
freeze:  the  depth  of  its  water,  and  its  perpetual  undulation 
prevent  such  effect.  Besides,  in  north  latitudes  as  far  as 
eighty  or  eighty-two,  sea  fogs  are  known  to  prevail,  and 
these  too  prevent  the  congelation  of  the  ocean. 

The  influence  of  the  sun  upon  the  various  parts  of  the 
earth,  during  its  annual  motion,  is  not  yet  fully  under- 
stood ;  and  the  effect  of  local  causes  adverse  from  or  co- 
operative with  such  influence  is  yet  to  be  learned." 

As  to  the  mountains  of  ice,  which  have  been  seen  in 
north  latitudes,  and  which  have  been  mentioned  as  evi- 
dence of  the  perpetual  frost  of  the  North  Pole,  they,  prob- 
ably, floated  from  some  neighboring  bays,  such  as  Baf- 
fin's, Hudson's,  &c.  and  were  formed  by  the  accumula- 
tion of  several  masses  of  ice,  which  were  created  on  the 
surf  ace  of  these  bays,  and  also  by  the  additions  of  snow  and 
rain.  This  last  idea  seems  to  be  sanctioned  by  the  fact, 
that  from  these  mountains,  as  they  are  called,  rivulets  of 
fresh  water,  produced  by  their  gradual  dissolution,  have 
been  known  to  distil  from  their  summit. 

"Local  and  peculiar  causes,"  with  respect  to  climate, 
do,  in  all  probability,  operate  every  where.  It  is,  in  many 
cases,  as  cold  in  lower,  as  in  higher  latitudes.  In  the  lati- 
tude of  the  Island  of  St.  Joseph,  "  it  is  as  cold  in  winter,  as 
it  is  at  Quebec.  One  of  the  great  causes  of  a  diversity  of 

M  It  is  the  intention  of  the  writer  to  attempt,  as  soon  as  he  can  make  the 
necessary  arrangements,  to  penetrate  to  the  North  Pole,  and  to  find  a  North- 
West  passage  by  land. —  EVANS. 

"  This  is  an  island  of  Ontario  in  the  channel  between  Lakes  Superior  and 
Huron. —  ED. 


1 62  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

climate,  beyond  that  which  is  produced  by  latitude,  may 
be  found  [65]  in  the  difference  between  land  and  sea  air; 
and  yet  this  cause  may,  in  some  cases,  be  so  controulrd  by 
an  adverse  cause,  as  to  be  rendered  inoperative.  Upon  the 
first  idea,  however,  it  may  be  warmer  at  the  North  Pole 
than  on  the  Arctic  Circle;  indeed,  in  the  former  place,  the 
weather  may  be  quite  moderate,  even  in  winter.  Another 
circumstance  in  support  of  this  supposition  may  be  ad- 
duced: it  is  well  known  that  the  earth  itself  is  productive 
of  heat.  In  the  United  States,  its  temperature  is,  perhaps, 
from  thirty  to  fifty  degrees.  At  the  North  Pole,  the  sur- 
face of  the  globe  must  be,  during  a  part  of  the  year,  heated 
to  a  much  greater  degree;  even  allowing,  as  will  be  proper, 
for  the  difference  between  the  capacities  of  land  and  water, 
to  imbibe  heat.  At  the  Poles,  the  heat  of  their  surface, 
during  those  months  in  which  the  sun,  as  to  them,  does 
not  set,  must  be  intense;  and  for  this  heat  to  evaporate, 
would  require  a  considerable  time,  even  during  the  total 
absence  of  the  sun.  In  Russia,  vegetation  is  so  rapid,  that 
the  work  of  sowing  and  reaping  is  frequently  accomplished 
in  six  weeks;  and  in  the  latitude  of  eighty,  the  heat  in  sum- 
mer is  so  great  as  to  melt  the  pitch  in  the  seams  of  vessels, 
to  such  a  degree  as  to  endanger  their  safety. 

In  advancing  the  foregoing  theories,  respecting  local 
and  peculiar  climate,  for  the  purpose  of  throwing  some 
light  upon  the  unfrozen  state  of  Lake  Ontario  during  the 
winter  season,  I  have,  perhaps,  taken  too  extensive  a  range; 
but  the  subject  is,  in  its  nature,  inexhaustible.  My  con- 
cluding reflections  upon  this  topic,  will  have  a  more  par- 
ticular application  to  it. 

Some  of  the  causes  of  Lake  Ontario  never  freezing  are, 
probably,  the  depth  of  its  water,  and  its  exposure  to  winds. 
Frost  is,  in  its  nature,  heavy;  and  therefore  shallow  water 
gets  chilled  sooner,  and  [66]  sooner  freezes.  As  soon  as  the 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  163 

surface  of  water  becomes  impregnated  with  frost,  its  weight 
presses  it  to  the  bottom,  and  a  new  supply  rises  to  take  its 
place.  Thus,  a  revolution  is  continued,  until  the  whole 
mass  becomes  chilled  to  a  certain  degree,  and  then  the  sur- 
face congeals.  The  necessary  quantity  of  cold  in  the  mass, 
to  produce  this  effect  upon  the  surface,  is  about  thirty  de- 
grees. The  depth  of  Lake  Ontario  is  very  great.  At- 
tempts to  ascertain  its  depth  have,  in  many  places,  been 
in  vain :  various  parts  of  the  centre  have  been  sounded  with 
a  line  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms,  without  success. 
It  must  require  a  great  degree,  and  a  long  continuance  of 
cold,  so  to  chill  so  deep  a  body  of  water,  as  to  produce  the 
congelation  of  its  surface. 

As  to  the  influence  of  wind,  it  produces,  as  has  been 
observed,  an  undulation  of  water,  so  as  to  prevent  that 
regular  operation  of  frost,  which  is  necessary  to  congela- 
tion. The  land  on  the  north  east  of  Lake  Ontario,  is 
low;  and  the  Lake  is  frequently  agitated  by  storms. 

As  another  supposed  cause  of  the  unfrozen  state  of  this 
lake  in  the  winter  season,  it  may  be  presumed  that  there 
are  beds  of  salt  at  the  bottom  of  this  body  of  water,  which 
neutralize,  in  some  measure,  the  elements  of  frost,  as  they 
descend  beneath  the  surface.  There  are  numerous  salt 
springs  on  both  sides  of  the  Lake,  and  in  its  immediate 
vicinity. 

Further:  there  is  reason  to  believe,  that  there  are  warm 
springs  in  the  bed  of  this  lake.  In  the  vicinity  of  it,  on  the 
Canada  side,  hunters  frequently  meet  with  spots  of  ground, 
about  two  or  three  acres  in  extent,  the  surface  of  which 
is,  in  the  winter,  entirely  free  from  snow;  and  yet  these 
spots  are  surrounded  with  snow  to  the  depth  of  six  or 
eight  feet.  Upon  these  places  the  snow,  when  it  falls,  in- 
stantly [67]  melts,  both  that  which  falls  upon  the  ground, 
and  upon  the  trees. 


164  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

I  may  add,  that  there  are  in  several  parts  of  N.  America, 
particularly  in  the  Missouri  Territory,  springs,  the  heat  of 
which  is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  degrees.  Such 
springs  may  exist  in  the  bed  of  Lake  Ontario,  and  if  so, 
they  would  go  far  to  prevent  the  influence  of  frost. 

Whilst  at  Fort  Niagara,  several  little  anecdotes  occurred 
which,  perhaps,  are  not  worth  mentioning;  they  may,  how- 
ever, afford  a  momentary  interest,  and  thereby  reward  me 
for  exposing  myself  to  the  imputation  of  egotism  and 
vanity. 

When  I  arrived  at  the  Fort,  I  was  much  weather-beaten ; 
and,  according  to  the  sea-phrase,  it  was  high  time  for  me 
to  put  into  some  harbor  and  repair  damages.  Just  before 
reaching  this  post,  I  understood  that  Colonel  Pinkney 
commanded  there;  and  notwithstanding  the  roughness  of 
my  appearance,  I  wished  to  become  acquainted  with  him. 

I  have  always  thought  it  both  proper  and  politic  for  a 
gentleman,  in  a  strange  place,  if  he  makes  himself  known 
at  all,  to  introduce  himself  to  men  of  the  first  considera- 
tion; and  after  this  step,  to  leave  them  to  take  the  lead  in 
every  thing  respecting  their  cultivation  of  his  acquaintance. 
Under  such  circumstances,  if  the  persons  to  whom  he  in- 
troduces himself  are  gentlemen,  he  will  be  treated  well, 
and  they  will  consider  his  confidence  in  them  a  compli- 
ment; but  if  they  should  not  treat  him  with  due  respect 
and  attention,  he  may  well  pride  himself  in  his  superiority, 
and  pity  their  false  views  of  true  greatness. 

Upon  entering  the  Fort,  I  met  an  Irish  soldier,  who 
seemed  to  possess  all  the  characteristic  hospitality  and 
friendship  of  his  countrymen.  He,  by  my  request,  very 
readily  conducted  me  to  the  Colonel's  [68]  quarters;  and, 
no  doubt  taking  me  for  a  man  of  his  own  cloth,  said: 
"in  jarth  ye  shall  want  for  nothing  hare;  I  can  geve  ye  a 
good  bade, ' '  &c.  I  repeatedly  thanked  the  honest  fellow, 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  165 

and  excused  myself  by  saying  that  I  should  stop  only  an 
hour. 

At  the  Colonel's  quarters,  I  requested  his  waiter  to  in- 
form him,  that  a  stranger  wished  for  the  privilege  of  in- 
troducing himself.  The  waiter,  being  a  spruce  lad  of 
seventeen,  no  doubt  thought  much  better  of  himself  than 
of  me :  it  being  not  easy  for  one  in  common  life,  and  of  but 
little  experience,  to  perceive  a  gentleman  under  so  rough 
a  garb  as  was  mine.  The  servant  probably  represented 
me  to  the  colonel  as  being  either  an  Indian,  or  some  old 
hunter  from  the  Canada  shore.  The  first  idea  might  well 
exist:  as,  having  travelled  many  days  in  the  eye  of  a  high 
wind,  my  complexion  had  become  very  dark.  But, 
however  this  may  have  been,  the  servant  returned  with 
an  answer,  which  rather  moved  my  yankee  spirit:  the 
colonel  wished  to  know  whether  I  could  not  inform  him, 
through  the  waiter,  of  what  I  wanted.  I  replied,  em- 
phatically, no;  and  added,  tell  colonel  Pinkney  again,  that 
a  stranger  wishes  for  the  privilege  of  introducing  himself. 

Before  the  servant's  return,  the  Irishman  had  obtained 
a  brother  Pad  to  come  and  see  the  man  in  fur.  After 
staring  at  me  for  a  minute,  the  new-comer  said — "sare, 
ar  ye  last?"  I  looked  at  him  with  a  steady  aspect,  and 
replied,  emphatically,  lost?-lost?  The  fellow  dropped 
his  eyes  and.  drew  back,  his  comrade,  at  the  same  time, 
declaring,  in  true  Irish  lingo,  "by  St.  Patrick,  ye'd  batre 
mind  what  ye're  about! —  that  mon  has  got  more  sanse  in 
his  latle  f anger  than  we've  in  both  of  oure  hades. ' '  This 
unexpected  compliment  was  no  less  gratifying  to  my  van- 
ity than  contributive  to  my  amusement. 

In  a  moment  after,  the  colonel's  waiter  returned ;  [69]  and, 
in  rather  a  surly  manner,  said,  "you  may  go  in  now. ' '  I 
approached  the  parlour  door,  which  was  nearly  shut ;  and 
here  placing  myself  upon  its  threshold,  and  gently  push- 


1 66  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

ing  the  door  fully  open,  I  made  my  bow  — ;  at  the  same 
time  taking  off  my  cap,  and  bringing  my  rifle  to  an  order. 
Whilst  in  this  situation,  I  said,  Sir,  I  have  the  misfortune 
to  be  an  entire  stranger  to  you;  but  I  have  taken  the  lib- 
erty to  introduce  myself.  The  colonel  received  and  en- 
tertained me  in  a  very  liberal  and  polite  manner;  and  even 
invited  me  to  sojourn  with  him  for  some  days  Having, 
however,  conversed  with  him,  upon  a  variety  of  topics,  for 
about  a  half  hour,  I  arose,  told  him  my  name,  place  of  resi- 
dence, destination,  &c.  and  bade  him  farewell. 

Opposite  to  Fort  Niagara,  on  the  Canada  side  of  the 
river,  is  the  town  of  Newark.  It  is  a  considerable  settle- 
ment, and  contains  some  handsome  buildings.  Just  above 
this  place  on  the  same  side  of  the  Niagara,  is  situated  Fort 
George.28  From  Lewistown  to  Lake  Ontario  the  river 
Niagara  may  well  be  termed  beautiful :  it  is  about  one  third 
of  a  mile  wide,  is  deep  enough  to  float  the  largest  ships,  and 
its  current  moves  silently  about  three  miles  an  hour.  The 
banks  of  the  river  present  a  pleasant  appearance;  and  the 
Heights  of  Queenstown  afford  an  interesting  view  of  the 
adjacent  country.  The  distance  from  Lewistown  to  fort 
Niagara  is  about  seven  miles.  Above  the  latter  are  the 
famous  five-mile  meadows."  They  are  very  small ;  but 

**  For  an  account  of  Fort  George,  see  Buttrick's  Voyages,  ante,  note  7. 

The  village  of  Newark  was  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  this  fort.  It  was 
settled  by  Loyalists  immediately  after  the  Revolution,  and  was  then  called 
West  Niagara.  When,  in  1792,  the  province  of  Upper  Canada  was  created,  it 
was  made  the  capital,  and  Governor  Simcoe  took  up  his  residence  there,  chan- 
ging the  name  to  Newark.  The  Americans  captured  it  (May,  1813),  and  held 
the  place  untfl  the  following  December.  Before  leaving,  Brigadier-general 
McChrre  ordered  it  to  be  burned,  and  all  the  houses,  to  the  number  of  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty,  were  laid  in  ashes.  When  it  was  rebuilt  after  the  war,  the 
name  Niagara  was  adopted. —  ED. 

"  Bordering  the  river,  five  miles  above  Fort  Niagara,  is  a  flat  more  than 
sixty  feet  lower  than  the  surrounding  territory.  Here  the  British  landed  on 
the  night  of  December  18,  1813,  and  the  following  day  surprised  and  captured 
Fort  Niagara. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  167 

little  objects  become  great  when  connected  with  great 
events;  and,  upon  the  same  principle,  little  men  create 
for  themselves  temples  of  fame,  which  the  weight  of  a  fly 
might  crush. 

Upon  leaving  the  fort  I  proceeded  back  to  Lewistown; 
and,  after  dark,  pursued  my  way  towards  Niagara  Falls. 
Sometimes,  when  not  near  any  habitation,  [70]  I  travelled 
from  day-light  to  twelve  o'clock  at  night  My  object  in 
taking  this  course,  was,  so  to  shorten  the  nighty  as  to 
render  my  situation  during  them  more  secure,  and  less 
uncomfortable.  So  heavy,  frequently,  was  the  travelling, 
that  with  great  exertion  I  could  not,  during  this  period, 
progress  more  than  twenty  miles.  During  my  walk  from 
the  fort,  along  the  bank  of  the  river,  I  reflected  upon  the 
battle  of  Queenstown,  the  subsequent  devastations  of  the 
enemy  upon  this  part  of  our  inland  frontier,  and  the  im- 
policy of  our  so  generally  employing  militia.  The  next 
day  I  made  a  minute  of  my  ideas  upon  the  subject,  and 
now  introduce  them  with  some  additions.  I  am  aware, 
however,  that  in  taking  this  step,  I  shall  oppose  a  national 
prejudice;  but  I  do  it  because,  however  much  a  man  may 
wish  for  the  good  opinion  of  his  fellow-citizens,  he  ought 
to  regard  the  interests  of  his  country  more.  In  every  thing 
excepting  in  the  too  general  employment  of  militia,  our 
government  has,  in  a  greater  or  less  degree,  profited  by 
experience.  But  in  this  particular,  we  seem  to  have  been 
unduly  influenced  by  our  too  general  idea  of  a  standing 
army: —  an  idea  which  at  once  calls  forth  ten  thousand 
vague  apprehensions,  and  condemns,  without  the  cere- 
mony of  a  hearing,  every  suggestion  of  reason.  We  are 
not  children;  and  it  is  high  time  to  put  aside  bug-bears. 
Our  prejudices  against  standing  armies  are  natural,  and, 
in  some  respects,  salutary;  but  in  fleeing  from  the  water, 
let  us  not  run  into  the  fire.  Fact  is  sometimes  less  unpleas- 


1 68  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

ant  than  apprehension.  Are  we  ignorant,  that  we  have  al- 
ready, always  have  had,  and  always  shall  have  a  standing 
army  ?  By  a  standing  army,  I  mean  a  force  raised  for  a 
permanent  purpose,  and  having  no  exclusive  relation  to  a 
state  of  war.  Such  a  force,  under  the  existing  disposition 
of  man,  is  essential  to  the  security  of  every  [71]  govern- 
ment, however  peaceful  may  be  its  policy.  The  only  ques- 
tion upon  this  subject,  is, —  how  large  our  regular  army 
ought  to  be  ?  Here  we  are  to  guard  against  many  evils, 
which  might  proceed  from  either  extreme: —  from  a  very 
large,  or  a  very  small  standing  army. 

By  a  very  large  standing  army,  the  counsels  of  the  na- 
tion might  be  too  much  influenced  by  the  private  interest 
and  feelings  of  military  men;  unpatriotic  ambition  might 
employ  this  force  to  the  worst  of  purposes;  its  maintenance 
would  be  inconsistent  with  rational  economy;  and  an  un- 
necessary part  of  our  population  would,  comparatively, 
be  kept  in  idleness. 

But,  both  security  and  true  economy  require,  that  we 
should  have  an  established,  permanent,  and  well  organ- 
ized force,  sufficiently  numerous,  and  ready  at  a  mo- 
ment's warning  to  meet,  with  success,  the  invaders  of  our 
land;  or  to  reduce,  with  promptitude,  our  Indian  enemies. 
These  are  the  first  objects  of  such  an  establishment;  the 
others  are, — to  furnish  a  national  standard  of  military  tac- 
tics; to  make,  in  a  short  time,  real  soldiers  of  our  militia, 
when  a  sudden  necessity  for  a  great  army  shall  call  them 
into  actual  service;  and  lastly,  by  mingling  both  kinds  of 
force,  to  afford  the  militia  support  and  confidence  in  the 
hour  of  battle. 

As  to  our  militia,  they  should  be  instructed  for  the  sole 
purpose  of  enabling  them  more  effectually  to  defend  their 
own  fire-sides,  and  of  furnishing  a  nursery  for  the  ranks 
of  our  regular  army,  whenever  enlistments  into  them 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  169 

shall  be  necessary.  Courageous  as  our  militia  are,  they 
are  not,  generally  speaking,  an  efficient  force;  and  by  em- 
ploying them  as  a  substitute  for  regular  troops,  we  un- 
necessarily increase  expence,  sacrifice  valuable  lives, 
and  expose  at  once,  the  safety  and  the  reputation  of  the 
country. 

[72]  I  have  a  very  high  opinion  of  the  courage  of  my 
countrymen;  but  courage  without  discipline  always,  ex- 
cepting in  cases  of  bad  conduct  on  the  part  of  the  enemy, 
results  in  general  confusion,  and  individual  sacrifice.  By 
employing  militia  in  actual  service,  we  throw  away  the  best 
and  most  productive  part  of  our  population.  If  the  na- 
tion could  see  the  dreadful  aggregate  of  our  militia,  who 
have  fallen  victims  to  the  dangers  and  diseases  of  the 
camp,  merely  because  they  were  militia,  there  would  be  a 
general  mourning;  and  the  nation  would  forever  abandon, 
in  relation  to  this  subject,  its  present  policy.  It  is  a  sys- 
tem dictated  by  false  ideas  of  economy,  by  a  too  general 
eulogy  of  our  militia,  and  by  groundless  fears  with  respect 
to  a  regular  force. 

Our  militia  have,  at  times,  performed  wonders;  but  they 
have  likewise  often  been  the  cause  of  defeat  and  disgrace. 

We  ought  not  unnecessarily  to  employ  militia  in  actual 
service.  To  do  so  is  to  be  careless  of  our  population;  and 
our  population  is  our  wealth.  Great-Britain  cannot  sup- 
port her  subjects;  she  may  well,  therefore,  sacrifice  them 
in  unnecessary  wars.  Her  territory  is  comparatively  small ; 
whilst  ours  is  almost  unlimited.  None  of  our  citizens 
should  be  sent  into  the  field  of  battle  without  the  confi- 
dence and  conduct,  which  discipline  gives.  Our  militia, 
as  I  have  said  before,  are  the  most  valuable  and  produc- 
tive part  of  our  population ;  and  they  are  sent  into  the  field 
under  the  most  unfavourable  circumstances.  Many  of 
them  have  never  slept  a  night  from  under  their  maternal 


1 70  JLarly  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

roof.  They  have  heard  their  fathers  speak  of  other  times, 
and  their  youthful  hearts  pant  for  the  service  of  their  coun- 
try; but  when  the  novelties  of  the  camp,  the  music  and  the 
parade  of  military  life  cease  to  inspire  them,  they  lose,  for 
a  time,  much  of  their  enterprize  [73]  and  spirit.  This  very 
circumstance  disposes  them  to  disease;  and  this  very  cir- 
cumstance tends  to  render  disease  fatal.  They  are  en- 
tirely unaccustomed  to  the  habits  and  employments  of  a 
camp;  and  their  health  is  greatly  exposed,  by  means  of  the 
number  of  troops  collected,  by  being  encamped  in  insalu- 
brious situations,  and  by  modes  of  living,  to  which  they  are 
entirely  unaccustomed.  In  a  time  of  peace,  new  recruits 
may  be  located  in  small  numbers,  in  healthy  situations, 
and  the  habits  of  the  raw  soldier  be  gradually  changed. 

But  a  militia  force  is  not  efficient.  Discipline  is,  gener- 
ally speaking,  absolutely  necessary  to  success.  It  pro- 
duces in  battle  a  sense  of  general,  and  in  some  measure 
of  individual  security.  The  soldier  in  an  engagement 
knows,  that  he  must  take  his  chance,  and  he  is  willing  to 
take  it;  but  it  is  because  he  has  a  confidence  in  the  general 
security  of  the  army,  that  he  stands  his  ground :  for  let  him 
know  that  there  will  be  a  rout  of  his  party,  and  he  will  at 
once  become  sensible  of  the  extraordinary  risque  which  he 
must  run,  and  will  endeavour  to  save  himself  by  flight. 
In  proportion  to  the  discipline  of  an  army  will  be  the 
general  and  individual  confidence  of  the  troops.  Be- 
sides, there  is  a  great  difference  between  individual  and 
general  courage.  Individual  courage  is  less  common  than 
is  supposed.  A  party  of  men  may  fight  pretty  well  ui 
company,  when,  as  individuals,  they  would,  under  similar 
circumstances,  act  a  cowardly  part;  it  is  a  sense  of  mutual 
support,  which  checks  their  fears,  and  furnishes  them  with 
confidence. 

Where  there  is  discipline, —  where  every  individual  feels 


i8:8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  171 

that  he  is  supported  by  all  the  rest, —  this  gives  him  con- 
fidence; and  confidence  is  force. 

Among  militia  the  cowardice  of  a  few  will  disorganize 
the  whole;  and  when  broken  and  hard  pushed,  [74]  it  is 
impossible  for  them  to  rally.  But  regular  troops,  when 
broken,  can,  in  ordinary  cases,  readily  form  again;  and, 
although  their  ranks  may  be  thinned  by  the  fire  of  the 
enemy,  they  are  immediately  filled,  order  is  maintained, 
the  army,  though  reduced,  is  still  an  army;  and,  although 
overpowered,  they  fight,  not  like  a  rabble,  but  like  true 
soldiers.  Their  manouvres  too,  upon  which  the  result  of 
an  engagement  much  depends,  are  performed  promptly, 
and  in  order.  Indeed,  a  soldier,  in  a  well  disciplined  army, 
is  a  mere  machine;  he  is  a  part  of  a  perfect  whole,  has  no 
will  of  his  own,  and  moves  only  by  the  direction  of  his 
commanders.  Had  our  force,  at  the  attack  upon  the  city 
of  Washington,  been  of  such  a  class,  what  a  glorious  de- 
fence would  have  been  made  !80  They  would  have  planted 
themselves  before  it,  and  in  the  name  of  every  thing  dear, 
and  sacred,  and  terrible,  would  have  resisted  its  unprin- 
cipled invaders. 

Our  militia,  as  has  been  observed,  sometimes  perform 
wonders;  but  these  are  exceptions  to  a  general  rule;  and 
exceptions  are  a  poor  ground  for  the  establishment  of  a 
general  principle.  In  a  pell-mell  contest,  militia  will  fight 
with  effect,  because  the  mode  of  fighting  is,  on  both  sides, 
of  the  same  kind.  Here  our  militia  would  prevail  over 
that  of  any  other  nation.  And  were  our  troops  always 

"August  17,  1814,  a  British  force  under  Major-general  Ross  landed  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Potomac  and  marched  leisurely  toward  Washington.  The  city 
was  entirely  without  defense.  Two  thousand  men  having  been  collected  from 
the  surrounding  country  and  a  thousand  regulars  assembled,  the  British  were 
met  (August  24)  at  Bladensburg  —  five  miles  northeast  of  Washington.  Re- 
sistance was  brief,  the  Maryland  militia  fled,  followed  by  the  remainder  of  the 
troops.  Ross  entered  Washington  without  further  opposition,  and  burned^the 
public  buildings. —  ED. 


172  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

well  disciplined,  they  would  always,  excepting  in  cases  of 
accident,  overcome  the  regular  troops  opposed  to  them. 
These  effects  would  arise  from  the  people  of  this  country 
possessing  more  animal  vigour,  and  more  moral  force  than 
any  other  people. 

Our  militia  may  soon  be  made  good  soldiers,  because 
they  are  intelligent,  and  have  already  received  some  mili- 
tary instruction.  I  speak  of  them  in  comparison  with  the 
militia  of  other  countries.  Much  discipline,  and  the  scenes 
and  avocations  of  the  [75]  camp  should  be  familiar  to  sol- 
diers, before  they  are  brought  into  the  field.  By  teaching 
them  their  first  lessons,  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet,  im- 
mense sacrifices  are  made,  both  of  reputation  and  of  blood. 

The  expence  too  of  maintaining  a  militia  force,  is  much 
greater  than  that  of  supporting  a  regular  army.  The  for- 
mer must  be  more  numerous  than  the  latter;  and,  of  course, 
their  wages  and  provisions  must  amount  to  more. 

Our  military  establishment  should,  to  say  the  least,  be 
sufficiently  large  to  enable  us  to  move,  whenever  neces- 
sary, a  well  organized,  well  disciplined,  and  efficient  force 
against  our  savage  neighbours.  Such  a  kind  of  force  is 
the  only  proper  one  to  meet  the  fatigues  and  dangers  of  In- 
dian warfare.  It  is  time  for  the  nation  to  be  heart-sick  of 
inefficient  military  efforts,  defeat  and  massacre.  The  In- 
dians may  be  conquered;  but  the  genius  of  a  Jackson, 
thousands  of  Tennesseeans,  much  time,  and  a  vast  ex- 
pence  should  not,  in  this  country,  be  requisite  to  over- 
throw a  few  hundred  Seminoles.31  A  well  organized,  and 

11  This  is  hardly  a  fair  illustration.  The  difficulty  was,  that  the  Seminole 
stronghold  was  on  Spanish  territory,  and  it  was  Jackson's  boldness  in  invading 
neutral  territory,  pursuing  the  Indians  into  the  swamps,  and  seizing  the  Spanish 
posts,  that  ended  the  war.  He  entered  Florida  late  in  March,  1818;  after  five 
days'  march,  he  reached  and  destroyed  the  Indian  village,  Fowltown;  took  pos- 
session of  St.  Marks,  April  6,  and  then  marched  one  hundred  and  seven  miles 
across  a  swampy  wilderness  to  Suwanee  —  the  town  of  the  Seminole  chief  Bow- 
legs.  The  Indians  had  been  warned  and  had  retreated,  but  he  burned  the 
village,  and  the  war  was  ended  as  far  as  the  Seminoles  were  concerned. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  173 

well  appointed  force  of  one  thousand  men  could  effect 
such  an  object  in  thirty  days  after  leaving  the  proper  place 
of  rendezvous. —  I  say  one  thousand  men,  because  a  large 
force  is  more  decidedly  efficient  than  a  small  one.  Militia, 
under  ordinary  circumstances,  are  put  into  the  utmost 
confusion  by  the  whoop,  and  yell,  and  onset,  of  Indians; 
ancl  then  a  total  butchery  of  them  ensues.  But  let  a  regu- 
lar force  be  employed,  and  order  and  firmness  will  resist 
the  most  furious,  and  unexpected  attack;  and  the  next 
moment  they  will  march  on  to  victory.  Our  celebrated 
fourth  regiment  at  the  battle  of  Tippecanoe  proves  this 
position.82  But  for  them,  this  engagement  would  have  re- 
sulted like  those  of  Braddock  and  St.  Clair. 

The  honour  and  the  safety  of  the  nation,  demand  [76]  an 
ample  and  well  organized  military  establishment.  With 
the  love  of  liberty,  and  every  other  circumstance  in  our 
favour,  we  have  often,  by  only  an  equal  force,  been  de- 
feated; and  this  effect  arose  from  our  want  of  discipline. 
The  nation  must  have  such  a  force  as  can  be  depended 
upon : —  such  a  force  as  will  fear  a  departure  from  disci- 
pline more  than  the  bayonet  of  the  enemy.  Such  a  force 
can  be  obtained  only  by  offering  to  our  best  population, 
both  officers  and  soldiers,  such  compensation  and  advan- 
tages as  will,  not  only  induce  them  to  engage  in  the  service 
of  their  country,  but  such  as  will  be  in  themselves  so  fully 
adequate,  as  to  render  the  service  respectable.  A  consid- 
erable part  of  the  expence  of  such  an  establishment,  might 
be  defrayed  by  employing  the  troops  in  making  roads,  and 
in  other  internal  improvements.  This  business  would 
keep  them  from  idleness,  inure  them  to  labour,  and  render 

w  When  on  the  morning  of  November  7,  1811,  the  Indians  attacked  General 
Harrison's  camp  and  thus  opened  the  battle  of  Tippecanoe,  the  militia  were  for 
a  time  thrown  into  confusion,  while  the  Fourth  United  States  Infantry  under 
command  of  George  Rogers  Clark  Floyd,  stood  their  ground.  After  the  cam- 
paign was  ended  the  latter  more  than  hinted  that  had  it  not  been  for  them  the 
whole  force  would  have  been  massacred. —  ED. 


1 74  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

them  acquainted  with  those  implements,  which  are  em- 
ployed in  pioneering,  and  in  fortification. 

The  present  administration  are,  no  doubt,  disposed  to 
promote  the  respectability  and  safety  of  the  nation;  and 
the  opposition  have  always  been  in  favour  of  a  consider- 
able military  and  naval  establishment.  The  experience 
gained  by  our  last  contest  with  Great-Britain  cost  us  much; 
and  it  ought  not  to  be  forgotten.  Both  political  parties  in 
this  country  agree,  that  in  peace  we  ought  to  be  prepared 
for  war.  That  I  do,  however,  consider  war  between  na- 
tions, seldom  necessary,  and  a  practice  which  places 
human  nature  upon  the  most  humiliating  ground,  will 
fully  appear  when  I  reach,  in  the  course  of  my  tour, 
those  fields  of  carnage  which  forcibly  speak  to  the 
lone  traveller. 

The  rapids  of  the  river  Niagara  commence  at  a  little  dis- 
tance above  the  celebrated  falls,  and  terminate  near  the 
narrows  opposite  to  Lewiston.  Between  [77]  these  two 
places  the  distance  is  about  seven  miles. 

That  I  might  have  a  full  view  of  the  scenery  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  the  falls,  I  travelled,  during  the  evening  of  my  leav- 
ing Fort  Niagara,  only  two  miles  beyond  Lewistown. 
Early  the  next  morning  I  moved  on,  glowing  with  antici- 
pation. The  lofty  and  rude  banks  of  this  part  of  the 
river,  the  deafning  clamour  of  the  falls,  and  the  huge 
clouds  of  vapour  which  arose  from  them,  inspired  me  with 
a  new  and  indiscribable  emotion.  The  day  too  was  dark, 
windy,  and  wild.  Yet  the  sun  shone  bright; — but  the 
darkness  did  not  comprehend  it. 

Owing,  perhaps,  to  the  excitement  occasioned  by  these 
circumstances,  I  expected  too  much.  I  confess  that  I 
was  disappointed,  both  with  respect  to  the  height  of  the 
falls,  and  the  quantity  of  water  propelled  over  them  in  a 
given  time.  There  is,  however,  in  their  eternal  roar, 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  175 

a  nameless  solitude.  For  ages  this  roar  has  been  cease- 
less; and  it  seems  to  speak  of  perpetual  duration. 

The  rapids  just  above  the  falls,  excited  much  interest. 
Dark,  furious,  and  perplexed,  they  rush  on  as  though  eager 
for  destruction.  Here  the  imagination  suddenly  becomes 
aroused,  and  with  a  sombre,  yet  vivid  glance,  surveys  the 
opposite,  and  renowned  plains  of  Chippewa  and  Bridge- 
water;89 —  then  returning  to  the  rapids,  it  hears,  in  the 
voice  of  their  fury,  the  half-drowned  vow  of  the  warrior, 
and  sees,  in  their  mist,  his  falling  steed,  and  brandished 
falchion.  The  trees  near  the  falls  were  all  prostrated  by 
the  weight  of  congealed  vapour;  and  seemed  to  worship, 
most  devoutly,  the  Great  Author  of  this  grand  spectacle. 
A  lovely,  yet  fearful  rainbow,  arched  the  river  below;  and 
numerous  gulls,  were  obscurely  seen  sailing  through  the 
thick  exhalations  which  filled  the  whole  space  to  [78]  the 
Canada  side. —  Charon  and  his  boat  only  were  wanted  to 
complete  the  scene. 

How  impressive  is  the  grand  in  nature !  It  withdraws 
the  human  mind  from  the  trifling  concerns  of  time,  and 
points  it  to  its  primeval  dignity,  and  lofty  destinies. 

There  are  three  divisions  of  the  falls;  and  they  are 
occasioned  by  two  islands  situated  in  the  river.  The 
whole  describes  a  crescent.  One  of  the  islands  is  about 
four  hundred  yards  wide,  and  the  other  about  ten  yards. 
Perhaps  the  whole  width  of  the  islands  and  falls, 
including  the  curvatures  of  the  latter,  is  three  quarters  of 
a  mile.  The  height  of  the  principal  falls  is  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet;  and  the  descent  of  the  rapids, 

M  Major-general  Brown  having  crossed  Niagara  River  (July  3,  1814)  and 
captured  Fort  Erie,  General  Riall  marched  to  attack  him.  The  two  forces  met 
(July  5)  on  the  plains  of  Chippewa,  midway  between  Forts  George  and  Erie, 
and  after  a  sharp  skirmish  the  British  retreated  to  Queenstown.  The  impor- 
tance of  the  battle  was  overshadowed  by  that  of  Lundy's  Lane,  which  occurred 
the  same  month. —  ED. 


1 76  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

above  the  largest  of  them,  is  about  sixty  feet.  One  can 
hardly  avoid  personifying  this  rush  of  water;  meeting,  as 
it  does,  huge  rocks  and  trees  lying  in  every  direction,  and 
seeking,  with  a  wild  and  furious  velocity,  a  passage  to 
the  falls.  Breaking  and  foaming,  the  rapids  take  a  thou- 
sand courses,  and  with  a  restive  spirit,  seek  the  abyss 
below.  The  obstructions  of  the  rapids  appear  to  dis- 
pute their  passage;  and  the  whole  scene  is  fury,  uproar 
and  destruction.  The  vapour,  arising  from  the  rapids, 
adds  to  the  sublimity  of  the  scene,  by  the  obscurity  with 
which  it  clothes  their  tremendous  concussions. 

The  icicles,  pending  from  the  sides  of  the  banks  con- 
tiguous to  the  falls,  are,  in  the  winter  season,  so  tinged 
with  the  sulphurious  particles  which  are  mingled  with 
their  strata,  as  to  present,  when  stricken  by  the  rays  of 
the  sun,  a  scintillating  and  bluish  glare. 

A  more  particular  account  of  the  falls  is  deemed  unim- 
portant. I  have  endeavoured  to  give  such  a  description 
as  comported  with  my  ideas  and  feelings,  whilst  in  view 
of  them.  These  falls  are,  no  doubt,  a  great  natural  curi- 
osity; and  they  will  excite  in  all  [79]  much  admiration 
and  awe.  But  many  of  the  descriptions  which  travellers 
have  given  of  them,  are  erroneous  in  point  of  fact,  and 
ridiculous  in  point  of  imagery.  An  English  writer  says, 
that  their  "noise  and  vapour  would  scarcely  be  equalled 
by  the  simultaneous  report  and  smoke  of  a  thousand 
cannon."  It  is  true,  that  the  roar  of  the  falls  can  at  times 
be  heard  for  thirty  miles,  or  perhaps  further;  and  that 
their  exhalations  have  been  seen  at  the  distance  of  ninety 
miles;  but  these  circumstances  exist  only  under  peculiar 
states  of  the  atmosphere,  and  the  causes  of  them  produce, 
upon  the  spot,  a  much  less  comparative  effect.  The 
falls,  however,  are  indeed  tremendous;  and  they  consti- 
tute the  only  visible  discharge  of  four  vast  inland  seas. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  177 

Tradition  says,  that  the  falls  of  Niagara  have,  for  a 
great  length  of  time,  been  receding; — that  they  were 
originally  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids  near  Lewis- 
town,  a  distance  of  seven  miles  from  their  present  posi- 
tion." This  idea  is  no  doubt  correct.  Masses  of  rock 
must,  from  time  to  time,  have  been  shaken  from  the  top 
and  sides  of  the  falls,  by  the  continual  abrasion  of  the 
rapids.  It  is  to  be  presumed,  that  the  falls  will  continue 
to  move  up  towards  Lake  Erie;  lessening  the  waters  of 
the  upper  lakes,  and  increasing  those  of  the  lower,  in 
proportion  as  the  descent  of  the  bed  of  the  river  above 
the  present  situation  of  the  falls  may  be  greater,  and  the 
obstructions  in  it  less.  In  the  course  of  many  centuries, 
the  falls  will,  probably,  reach  Lake  Erie  itself;  in  which 
case  the  upper  lakes  may  be  partially  drained,  and  Lake 
Ontario  be  overflown.  It  has  been  asserted,  that  this  lake 
fills  once  in  seven  years.  As  to  the  time,  this  must  be  a 
whim;  but  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  the  lake  occa- 
sionally fills,  because  its  sources  are  numerous  and  great, 
its  discharge  is  not  very  ample,  and  high  north-east  winds, 
which  frequently  prevail  here,  retard  the  [80]  progress  of 
the  water  towards  the  river  St.  Lawrence. 

I  may  here  more  particularly  notice  Lake  Ontario.  Its 
length  is  about  one  hundred  and  seventy  miles,  and  its 
breadth  about  sixty  miles.  It  contains  a  great  many 
islands,  nearly  all  of  which  are  situated  at  the  easterly 
end  of  the  lake.  The  principal  islands  are  Amherst, 
Wolf,  Gage,  and  Howe.  The  land  on  the  north-east 
coast  of  this  lake  is  low,  and  in  some  places  marshy; 
near  Lake  Champlain,  however,  the  country  is  somewhat 
mountainous. 


14  It  is  held  that  Niagara  Falls  have  receded  seven  miles  from  their  posi- 
tion when  first  known,  the  average  yearly  recession  being  from  four  to  six 
feet.—  ED. 


178  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

One  of  the  islands  in  the  river  Niagara,  of  which  I  have 
spoken  as  contributing  to  a  division  of  the  falls,  is  called 
Goat  Island.  It  belongs  to  Judge  Porter,  and  contains 
about  eighty  acres.35  Its  soil  is  excellent,  and  its  timber 
valuable.  From  the  main  land  to  this  island  a  bridge  has 
recently  been  built;  and  I  understand,  that  a  hotel  is 
soon  to  be  erected  on  the  island,  for  the  accommodation 
of  those  who  may  visit  the  falls. 

The  whole  length  of  the  river  Niagara  is  about  thirty- 
eight  miles.  Its  width  is  various.  From  Lewistown  to 
the  falls  it  is  very  narrow,  its  banks  high,  and  its  bed  con- 
sists of  solid  limestone.  Above  the  falls  the  river,  in 
some  places,  is  three  miles  wide,  and  contains  several 
large  islands.  Here  its  banks  are  low.  At  the  ferry, 
about  two  miles  from  Lake  Erie,  the  river  is  only  about 
one  mile  wide;  and  near  the  falls  it  again  contracts,  and 
thereby  so  compresses  the  water  as  greatly  to  increase  its 
velocity.  The  average  depth  of  the  river  is  from  twenty- 
five  to  thirty  feet.  The  rapidity  of  its  current,  from  the 
ferry  to  within  a  short  distance  of  the  falls,  is  about 
six  miles  an  hour;  but  just  above  the  former  its  motion 
is  much  quicker.  The  navigation  of  the  river,  above  the 
falls,  is  very  dangerous. 

The  principal  of  the  islands  just  mentioned  are 
[81]  Navy,  Grand,  and  Buck-horn.  The  growth  of  tim- 

85  Augustus  Porter,  brother  of  General  Peter  Porter,  was  born  at  Salisbury, 
Connecticut,  in  1769.  When  twenty  years  of  age,  he  left  home  for  western 
New  York,  becoming  a  surveyor  in  the  Phelps  and  Gorham  Tract,  and  later 
in  the  Holland  Purchase.  In  1806,  he  removed  with  his  family  to  Niagara 
Falls,  where  he  continued  to  reside  until  his  death  in  1825.  In  association 
with  three  others,  he  formed  the  Portage  Company,  which  leased  from  the 
state  for  fifteen  years  the  exclusive  privilege  of  transporting  property  across  the 
portage  between  Lewiston  and  Schlosser.  He  was  the  first  judge  of  Niagara 
County,  opening  his  first  term  at  Buffalo  in  1808.  The  unusual  length  of  his 
life  enabled  him  to  see  the  country,  through  which  he  had  travelled  for  days 
without  meeting  a  white  man,  develop  into  a  populous  agricultural  and  com- 
mercial region. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  179 

her  upon  them  is  principally  hard  wood,  and  their  soil  is  of 
a  superior  quality.  Grand  island  is  fifteen  miles  in  length. 

From  the  falls  of  Niagara  I  proceeded  to  Buffalo. 
The  distance  from  the  former  place  to  Black  Rock,  is 
about  twenty-two  miles.86  The  way  to  it  is  through  a 
gloomy  wood,  between  the  trees  of  which  one  may  occa- 
sionally see  the  river.  Here  the  aspect  was  dreary.  The 
snow  was  still  very  deep;  the  weather  cold,  windy  and 
wild;  the  river  presented  a  green  appearance,  was  par- 
tially covered  with  masses  of  ice,  and  violently  agitated  by 
the  spirit  of  an  approaching  storm.  In  this  situation  I  met 
three  Indians.  We  were  thinking  of  a  shelter. — We  passed 
each  other,  only  with  a  mute  and  sympathetic  glance. 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  Lakes  Ontario  and  Erie  deeper 
snows  fell,  during  the  last  winter,  than  had  ever  been 
known  there;  and  the  severity  of  the  cold  was  without  a 
parallel.  Many  people  on  the  Lakes,  and  in  the  woods 
were  frozen  to  death.  A  hunter,  who  went  into  the  wood 
for  an  afternoon,  was  so  frozen  as  to  render  necessary  the 
amputation  of  his  feet ;  and  it  was  not  uncommon,  in  the 
upper  part  of  the  state  of  New- York,  to  see  men,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  frost,  moving  upon  crutches. 

It  may  be  well  for  me  here  to  mention  some  additional 
facts,  in  relation  to  the  country  through  which  I  have 
passed  since  leaving  Vermont.  The  face  of  it,  from  the 
Green  Mountains  to  Niagara  River,  is  rather  level  than 
mountainous;  there  are,  however,  many  high  and  steep 
hills.  On  both  sides  of  the  Mohawk  north  and  south, 
and  from  sixty  to  one  hundred  miles  west  from  Albany, 
there  are  a  number  of  considerable  hills.  In  the  vicinity 
of  these,  particularly  near  Scoharie,  the  soil  is  of  an 
inferior  [82]  quality.  West  of  this  to  Lake  Ontario  is  an 

*  For  a  brief  account  of  Black  Rock  and  Buffalo,  see  Buttrick's  Voyages, 
ante,  notes  4  and  9. —  ED. 


180  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

extensive  level,  interspersed  with  gradual  and  gentle  swells. 
Some  of  the  slopes  are  extensive,  and  result  in  spacious 
flats,  many  of  which  are  very  rich.  This  is  particularly 
the  case  on  the  Genessee.  The  north-easterly  part  of  the 
State  is  hilly,  and  even  mountainous;  but  some  portions 
of  this  section  of  the  country,  especially  near  Black  River, 
is  very  fertile.  West  of  the  Genessee,  and  more  decidedly 
so  in  the  vicinity  of  Buffalo,  the  soil  is  not  remarkably 
good;  but  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  along  Lake  Ontario, 
the  land  is  much  better.  In  various  other  parts  of  the 
state  the  soil  is  almost  inexhaustibly  rich;  but,  as  is  the 
case  in  all  extensive  tracts  of  country,  there  are  here  some 
poor  lands.  Generally  speaking,  the  state  is  of  immense 
force  in  point  of  agriculture;  and  the  means  of  conveying 
it  to  market  are  ample.  North  and  South,  the  Hudson, 
possessing  a  deep  stream  and  gentle  current,  extends 
from  New- York,  the  great  maratime  depo  of  the  state, 
to  the  mountains  between  Lake  Champlain  and  the  St. 
Lawrence.  From  about  the  centre  of  this  river,  north 
and  south,  the  Mohawk  reaches  to  within  a  very  short 
distance  of  Lake  Ontario;  and  between  Lake  Cham- 
plain  and  Lake  Erie,  east  and  west,  there  are  a  great  many 
small  lakes  and  rivers,  which  tender  their  waters  to  the 
public  spirit  of  the  state.  It  is  the  object  of  New  York 
to  draw  to  herself  the  trade  of  Vermont  and  the  Canadas. 
The  western  part  of  this  state,  was,  during  the  revolu- 
tion, inhabited  by  the  Six  Nations  of  Indians,  among 
whom  were  the  Mohawks,  a  fierce  and  powerful  tribe. 
Most  of  these  nations  aided  the  British  during  this  great 
contest;  and  the  state,  in  many  places,  suffered  much 
from  their  ravages.87 

87  The  Oneida  alone  remained  neutral,  and  in  consequence  suffered  severely 
at  the  hands  of  the  Mohawk,  who  burned  their  villages  and  drove  them  to 
seek  shelter  at  Schenectady. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  181 

The  land  in  this  state  is  generally  well  timbered.  The 
principal  growth  is  the  several  kinds  of  oak,  [83]  sugar  and 
curled  maple,  walnut,  beech,  black  and  white  ash,  birch, 
hickory,  bass,  sassafras,  and  several  other  kinds.  One 
cannot  but  regret  the  loss  of  so  much  excellent  timber,  as 
is  destroyed  in  our  new  settlements  by  clearing. 

All  the  western  waters  are  well  stored  with  fish  and 
fowl.  Those  of  the  former  in  Lake  Ontario  are  princi- 
pally white  fish,  and  black  bass;  and  in  some  of  its  tribu- 
tary streams,  there  are  salmon ;  but  they  are  of  an  inferior 
quality.  In  the  west  too,  large  quantities  of  sugar  are 
made  from  the  sap  of  the  maple;  and  in  the  woods  are 
found  bee  hives  containing  an  almost  incredible  quantity 
of  honey.  A  kind  Providence  has  also  provided  for  our 
brethren  of  the  west,  innumerable  salt  springs,  which 
produce  fine  white  salt.  This  article  can,  in  some  cases, 
be  bought  at  the  works,  at  twenty  cents  a  bushel. 

The  day  after  leaving  Niagara  Falls,  I  arrived  at  Black 
Rock,  proceeded  on  to  Buffalo,  and  following  a  creek  of 
this  name,  crossed  a  bay  of  Lake  Erie  on  the  ice.  I  should 
have  crossed  the  Niagara  at  Black  Rock,  for  the  purpose 
of  viewing  Fort  Erie,  but  the  wind  was  so  high  that  no 
boat  could  have  reached  the  opposite  shore.  This  was  a 
great  disappointment  to  me.  My  heart  had  prepared  a 
laurel  for  the  warrior's  tomb. —  The  graves  of  Gibson 
and  Wood  tell  us  how  to  die  for  our  country."  The  pri- 

M  For  the  early  history  of  Fort  Erie,  see  Buttrick's  Voyages,  ante,  note  5. 

Eleazer  Derby  Wood,  born  in  New  York  City  (1783),  a  graduate  of  West 
Point  (1806),  served  in  the  West  during  the  early  part  of  the  war,  having  con- 
ducted the  defense  of  Fort  Meigs,  and  commanded  the  artillery  at  the  battle 
of  the  Thames.  He  was  killed  in  General  Brown's  sortie  to  raise  the  siege  of 
Fort  Erie  (September  17,  1814),  and  a  monument  to  his  memory  was  erected 
by  that  general  at  West  Point. 

James  Gibson,  who  also  died  from  a  wound  received  in  this  sortie,  was  a 
native  of  Sussex  County,  Delaware,  and  a  graduate  of  West  Point.  He  had 
been  in  the  battle  of  Queenstown  Heights;  was  made  a  colonel,  and  in  July, 
1813,  inspector-general  of  the  army. —  ED. 


1 82  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

vate  soldier  too,  humble  in  station,  yet  lofty  in  spirit, 
deserves  the  tribute  of  a  tear. —  I  must  say  more  in  his 
behalf:  comparatively  speaking,  his  sufferings  have  been 
unnoticed,  his  gallantry  unrewarded,  his  grave  neglected. 
Who  achieves  our  victories  ? —  the  private  soldier.  What 
fills  the  breach  in  the  ramparts  of  his  country  ? —  his 
dead  body.  In  eulogizing  and  rewarding  the  leaders  of 
our  armies,  let  us  not  forget  the  more  frequent  sufferings, 
and  the  equal  merits  of  the  private  soldier. 

[84]  The  battles  of  Chippewa,  Niagara  and  Erie,  are 
full  of  fame. 

On  my  way  to  Buffalo,  I  passed  Fort  Schlosser,39  and 
also  a  small  battery  at  Black  Rock.  Here  the  traveller  is 
sensibly  impressed  by  the  contrast,  between  the  present 
solitary  aspect  of  the  adjacent  country,  and  the  scenes 
which  it  presented,  during  those  military  operations  here, 
which  furnish  so  bright  a  page  in  the  records  of  American 
prowess: — then,  the  splendour  and  roar  of  battle! — Now, 
the  death-sleep  of  the  warrior,  and  the  crimson  shroud ! 

The  distance  from  Black  Rock  to  Buffalo  is  only  two 
miles.  The  latter  place  was  destroyed  by  the  enemy 
during  the  last  war;40  but  since  then  it  has  been  rebuilt, 
and  now  contains  many  elegant  houses.  Buffalo  is  a  con- 
siderable place  for  business.  Its  situation  is  central,  with 
respect  to  the  trade  of  the  City  of  New- York,  and  that  of 
the  upper  Lakes. 

39  In  1750,  Joncaire  built  a  stronghold  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Niagara  por- 
tage, which  was  known  as   Fort  au  Portage;   but  when,  eight  years  later, 
the  English  advanced  to  invest  Fort  Niagara,  he  blew  it  up  and  retired  across 
the  river.     At  the  close  of  the  French  and  Indian  War  (1763),  the  English  built 
a  fort  at  this  point,  which  they  named  Fort  Schlosser,  in  honor  of  Captain 
Joseph  Schlosser,  its  first  commander. —  ED. 

40  In  retaliation  for  the  burning  of  Newark,  General  Riall,  upon  the  capture 
of  Fort  Niagara  (December,  1813)  ordered  his  troops  to  destroy  all  American 
settlements  on  the  Niagara  frontier.     Buffalo,  Black  Rock,  Lewiston,  Schlos- 
ser, and  the  friendly  Seneca  and  Tuscarora  villages  were  accordingly  burned, 
and  the  people  driven  to  seek  shelter  at  Batavia. —  Ep. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  183 

When  I  arrived  at  Buffalo,  I  had  travelled  twenty-four 
miles,  without  meeting  any  habitation,  excepting  a  very 
few  scattering  log  huts.  Some  of  these  were  destitute  of 
provisions;  and  at  others  of  them  a  piece  of  bread,  and  a 
drink  of  water  cost  me  two  York  shillings.  Not  far  from 
this  place,  my  dogs,  knowing  no  law  but  that  of  nature, 
and  having  forgotten  my  lecture  to  them  upon  theft, 
helped  themselves  to  the  first  repast  presented,  leaving 
their  master  to  foot  their  bills.  According  to  the  phrase- 
ology of  our  Grand  Juries,  they  very  modestly  "took, 
stole,  and  carried  away"  a  piece  of  beef  of  the  weight  of 
three  pounds,  with  an  intention  to  convert  the  same  to 
their  own  use.  Hue  and  cry  was  immediately  made,  not 
by  the  Hundred,  nor  by  the  Posse  Commitatus,  but  by 
the  power  of  the  kitchen.  Notwithstanding  carelessness, 
on  the  part  of  Mrs.  Vixen,  was  the  cause  of  this  disastrous 
event ;  yet  numerous  apologies  were  tendered  to  her,  and 
[85]  her  lord,  for  the  purpose  of  appeasing  their  vindic- 
tive spirit :  the  thieves,  at  the  same  time,  were  dividing  the 
spoil  behind  some  neighbouring  snow-bank.  The  value 
of  this  sacrifice  to  canine  hunger,  was  of  no  consequence 
to  the  traveller;  but  in  this  rare  instance,  money  could  not 
purchase  pardon ;  and  my  dogs  were  obliged  to  remain  at 
some  out-post  until  I  renewed  my  march. 

On  Buffalo  creek,  which  I  have  already  mentioned 
and  which  is  connected  with  Lake  Erie,  there  is  an  Indian 
village  inhabited  by  the  Senecas.  This  tribe  Jiave  a  nu- 
merous settlement  on  the  Genessee  river,  and  several 
others  in  the  north-westerly  part  of  Pennsylvania;  but 
their  numbers  are  rapidly  decreasing,  and  they  are  prob- 
ably the  most  worthless  tribe  in  North  America.41 

41  The  Seneca  Indians  were  the  most  western  of  the  Iroquois,  and  during 
the  Revolutionary  War  had  their  principal  villages  on  the  Genesee  River,  one 
of  them  containing  one  hundred  and  twenty-eight  houses.  These  were  com- 


1 84  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

In  leaving  Buffalo,  I  crossed,  as  before  stated,  a  Bay 
of  Lake  Erie  on  the  ice.  The  distance  across  this  Bay  is 
about  eight  miles.  For  four  and  twenty  hours  previous 
to  my  reaching  the  Lake,  appearances  indicated  a  violent 
storm.  It  commenced  as  I  passed  through  Buffalo,  and 
continued  until  after  I  had  crossed  the  Lake.  Such  a 
snow  storm  I  had  never  witnessed; —  indeed  such  a  snow 
storm  can  scarcely  be  imagined.  There  was,  for  hours,  a 
constant  whirl  of  snow,  without  the  least  cessation.  At 
noon  it  was  night;  the  way  could  not  be  seen: — there 
was  danger  of  perishing. 

My  arrival  on  the  other  side  of  the  Bay  excited  much 
curiosity. 

Lake  Erie  was,  at  this  time,  fast  bound  in  ice.  The 
whole  country,  excepting  the  evergreens,  presented  the 
aspect  of  perpetual  congelation.  The  freezing  of  Lake 
Erie  probably  arises,  in  part,  from  its  being  shallow.  Its 
greatest  depth  does  not  exceed  fifty  fathoms. 

This  Lake  derives  its  name  from  the  Eries,  a  tribe  [86] 
of  Indians  once  dwelling  upon  its  borders.42  The  scenery 
of  its  banks  is  rather  picturesque.  The  traveller  sees 
many  points  of  land  extending  into  the  Lake ;  much  level 
country;  and  a  few  considerable  hills.  This  Lake  is 

pletely  destroyed  by  Sullivan's  expedition  (1779);  but  although  the  English  in- 
vited them  to  cross  into  Canada  with  the  Mohawk,  they  refused  to  go,  and  a 
considerable  number  settled  near  the  mouth  of  Buffalo  and  Cattaraugus  creeks. 
When  in  1797  the  Holland  Company  purchased  the  Indian  title  to  their  lands, 
the  Seneca  retained  reservations  at  these  points,  also  the  Allegheny  and  Tona- 
wanda  reservations  already  mentioned  (ante,  p.  153),  and  five  smaller  ones  in 
the  Genesee  valley.  In  1838  pressure  was  brought  to  bear  by  the  Ogden  Land 
Company,  and  certain  chiefs  signed  a  treaty  ceding  their  lands  in  New  York, 
Congress  at  the  same  time  granting  them  lands  in  Indian  Territory.  The 
body  of  the  people,  however,  refused  to  move;  the  New  York  and  Pennsylvania 
Friends  interested  themselves  in  their  behalf,  and  they  were  allowed  to  re- 
main.—  ED. 

42  The  history  of  the  tribe  known  as  the  Erie  or  Cat  Nation  is  obscure  and 
involved,  and  their  habitat  uncertain.     See  Jesuit  Relations,  viii,  p.  305;  Tad, 
-—  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans  s  Pedestrians  Tour  185 

about  three  hundred  miles  in  length,  and  seven  hundred  in 
circumference.  Following  the  course  of  it,  on  the  Amer- 
ican side,  the  distance  is  full  four  hundred  miles.  The 
growth  of  timber  here  is,  generally,  similar  to  that  east  of 
Buffalo;  but  the  soil  is  of  greater  fertility,  and  of  easier 
cultivation.  It  contains  too,  considerable  limestone;  and 
much  animal  and  vegetable  substance.  On  the  American 
side  of  the  Lake  there  is  an  abundance  of  game. 

The  islands  of  the  Lake  are  numerous.  Some  of  them 
are  Grose  Isle,  Isle  Bois  Blanc,  St.  George's,  Ship,  San- 
dusky,  Turtle,  Put-in-Bay,  and  the  Three  Sisters. 

In  some  of  these  islands  there  are  subterraneous  pas- 
sages, which  abound  with  petrifactions.  In  that  called 
Put-in-Bay  there  is  a  considerable  cave,  which  I  shall  by 
and  by  describe. 

On  the  26th  of  February  I  had  commenced  the  long  and 
solitary  way,  bounded  on  my  right  by  Lake  Erie,  present- 
ing an  ocean  of  ice,  and  on  my  left  by  a  vast  wilderness. 
In  looking  back  I  remembered  toils  and  privations,  which 
had  put  my  resolution  to  the  test;  and  in  contemplating 
the  prospect  before  me,  the  swamps  of  the  Sandusky  and 
Miami  forcibly  presented  themselves.  Along  the  Ameri- 
can side  of  the  Lake,  especially  the  lower  part  of  it,  there 
are  many  townships;  some  of  them,  however,  are  very 
inconsiderable,  some  are  known  only  on  paper,  and  be- 
tween the  former  are  large  districts  of  country  in  a  wilder- 
ness state.  Some  of  the  settlements  are  visited  in  the 
summer  season  by  small  vessels  on  the  Lake. 

[87]  In  travelling  from  Buffalo  to  Detroit,  I  marched 
upon  the  Lake  about  fifty  miles.  Sometimes  I  travelled 
near  its  margin,  and  sometimes  at  the  distance  of  thirty  or 
forty  miles  from  it.  These  numerous  courses  were  taken, 
to  enable  me  to  see  various  parts  of  the  country,  and  also 
for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  game. 


1 86  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

The  New- York  line,  west  of  Buffalo,  is  about  forty 
miles  from  this  place.  The  principal  creeks  within  this 
line,  and  which  are  connected  with  Lake  Erie  are  Eighteen 
Mile,  Catheraugus  and  Silver  Creek.  Near  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Catheraugus  is  another  settlement  of  Seneca 
Indians. 

The  State  of  Pennsylvania  is  bounded  by  this  Lake  for 
the  distance  of  about  fifty-miles.  The  land  here  is  very 
good.  Presque  Isle,  situated  about  twenty  miles  from  the 
New- York  line,  is  a  considerable  village,  and  will  become 
a  place  of  importance.43 

Until  about  the  first  of  March  the  weather  was  unin- 
terruptedly severe;  and  although  the  country  is  generally 
infested  with  bears  and  wolves,  and  furnishes  almost 
every  kind  of  game,  I  had  not,  previous  to  this  period, 
seen  any  thing,  relative  to  this  particular,  worthy  of  remark. 
All  nature,  fast  bound  in  the  icy  arms  of  winter,  was  mute. 
I  looked  towards  the  Lake,  but  it  spake  not.  I  asked  a 
reason  of  the  trees,  but  even  their  branches  did  not  whisper 
to  me. —  The  traveller  was  the  only  living  thing.  Upon 
the  bosom  of  the  Lake  he  could  see,  that  in  the  very  frolic 
of  its  waves,  a  sudden  and  bitter  chill  had  fixed  in  disap- 
pointment the  smile  of  its  delight. —  Thus  man,  in  the 
unsuspecting  season  of  happiness,  feels  the  deadly  pressure 
of  unrelenting  sorrow. 

Leaving  the  Pennsylvania  line,  I  entered  the  celebrated 
Connecticut  Reserve,  called  New  Connecticut. 

[88]  The  original  charter  of  Old  Connecticut  embraced  a 
large  section  of  that  part  of  the  North-West  Territory, 
which  lies  south  of  Lake  Erie.  In  1786  this  state  ceded 
to  the  general  government  all  her  territory  west  of  Penn- 
sylvania, excepting  the  tract  now  constituting  New  Con- 

41  For  the  early  history  of  Presqu'  Isle,  see  Croghan's  Journals,  volume  i  of 
our  series,  note  62. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  187 

necticut.  This  tract  is  bounded  North  by  Lake  Erie, 
South  and  West  by  Ohio,  and  East  by  Pennsylvania.  It 
is  120  miles  long  and  72  broad;  making  about  4,000,000 
of  acres.  The  country  here  is  level,  with  occasional 
swells;  and  the  soil  is  a  rich  loam  and  clay  mixed  with 
sand.  It  contains  no  small  stones;  but  ledges  and  quar- 
ries are  numerous.  It  abounds  in  various  kinds  of  hard 
wood ;  but  pine  is  seldom  seen  here.  With  emigrants,  this 
tract  of  land  is  in  high  repute. 

The  principal  rivers  in  New  Connecticut  is  the  Grand, 
and  Cayahoga.44  The  latter  enters  Lake  Erie  about  forty 
miles  east  of  the  river  Huron.  On  its  banks  is  situated  a 
village,  inhabited  by  the  Cayuga  Indians.  The  river  is 
navigable  for  boats;  and  its  mouth  is  wide  and  deep 
enough  to  receive  considerable  vessels  from  the  Lake. 
The  mouth  of  Grand  River  is  about  seventy  yards  wide; 
but  there  are  obstructions  to  its  navigation,  particularly  at 
its  mouth. 

Early  in  March  I  experienced  a  long  storm  of  rain.  My 
garments,  after  a  while,  became  wet;  which  circumstance 
rendered  my  situation  uncomfortable.  I  travelled,  during 
the  whole  of  the  storm,  in  the  belief  that  continual  motion 
was  necessary  to  preserve  my  health.  No  one  can  take 
cold  in  the  worst  of  weather,  during  an  active  arterial  cir- 
culation. It  is  in  a  sudden  check  of  this  impetus,  that 
severe  colds  are  experienced,  and  diseases  contracted. 

Having  passed  several  small  rivers,  besides  the  Grand 
and  Cayahoga,  I  arrived,  on  the  4th  of  March,  at  Rocky 
River.  The  weather  was  still  rather  [89]  moderate,  and 
thinking  it  would  be  dangerous  to  cross  this  stream 
upon  the  ice,  I  passed  along  its  southerly  side  and  went 
upon  the  Lake.  This  course  was  fortunate,  inasmuch  as 

44  For  the  Grand,  Cuyahoga,  and  Rocky  Rivers,  see  Croghan's  Journals, 
volume  i  of  our  series,  notes  70,  72,  and  73. —  ED. 


1 88  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

it  placed  me  in  a  very  interesting  situation.  It  was  late 
in  the  afternoon  when  I  reached  the  Lake;  and  it  was  my 
intention  to  travel  upon  it  until  the  evening,  and  then 
pass  into  the  woods.  Soon  after  leaving  the  river,  how- 
ever, I  found  the  banks  of  the  Lake  very  high  and  steep. 
I  pushed  on.  This  tremendous  ridge  of  perpendicular 
rock  proved  to  be  several  miles  in  length.  I  was  not 
aware,  that  it  was  the  celebrated  scene  of  storms,  ship- 
wrecks, and  savage  offerings.  Night  approached.  The 
prospects  around  me  were  sublime.  I  was  upon  a  glare 
of  ice.  Upon  one  side  was  a  congealed  ocean,  apparently 
unlimited,  and  on  the  other  a  gloomy  bank  fifty  feet  in 
height,  entirely  perpendicular,  and  pending  from  which 
were  huge  icicles. —  I  speak  within  bounds :  they  were 
twenty  feet  in  length,  and  as  large  as  a  hogshead.  The 
severity  of  the  weather  had  been  unparalleled.  It  had 
rained, —  it  had  frozen.  The  night  was  dark.  To  ascend 
the  banks  was  impossible : —  they  seemed  to  be  the  ever- 
lasting battlements  of  nature!  The  weather  was  still 
moderating;  the  ice  of  the  Lake  cracking  in  every  direc- 
tion, and  producing  a  noise  like  distant  thunder.  The 
solitude  of  my  situation  was  profound.  I  was  in  the 
midst  of  a  world,  and  it  appeared  to  have  been  made  but 
for  one  man.  I  walked  with  caution,  hoping  yet  to 
meet  a  ravine  in  the  banks.  At  length  I  heard,  at  a  little 
distance,  a  sullen  stream  pouring  its  scanty  waters 
into  the  hollow  Lake.  I  paused, —  was  bewildered, — • 
was  lost.  The  stars  presented  a  gloomy  aspect,  and  shed 
an  ineffectual  light.  My  situation  was  truly  enviable !  — 
There  is  a  charm  in  desolation ;  and  in  the  season  of  danger, 
the  human  [90]  soul  triumphs  in  the  conviction  of  its  own 
indestructibility. 

After  being  apprised  of  the  existence  of  the  stream,  I, 
with  much  caution,  moved  upon  my  hands  and  knees 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  189 

towards  the  shore,  presuming  that  there  was  a  valley 
through  which  the  stream  entered  the  Lake,  and  by  which 
I  might  reach  the  summit  of  the  bank.  I  soon  affected 
this  object,  and  entered  the  wood.  I  did  not,  however, 
sleep  much:  my  imagination  had  become  active,  and  I 
passed  most  of  the  night  in  weaving  the  web  of  fancy. 

The  adventure  of  the  preceding  evening  was  calculated 
to  call  forth  much  enthusiasm.  This,  I  know,  is  a  term 
which  alarms  the  ear  of  dullness;  but  the  indulgence  of 
this  native  quality  of  the  heart  is  not  inconsistent  with  the 
due  influence  of  the  understanding.  What  is  it  but  an 
admiration  of  those  principles  of  mind,  and  those  views 
of  nature,  which  may  be  traced  to  that  Being  in  whom  is 
the  perfection  of  every  great  and  good  attribute  ?  Upon 
a  vicious,  or  mean  object  it  never  looks  but  with  the  eye  of 
compassion  and  sorrow.  I  may  be  permitted  to  enlarge 
a  little  upon  this  subject. 

Enthusiasm  is  the  reverse  of  mental  and  moral  insensi- 
bility. In  the  home  of  the  heart  it  trims  the  lamp  of  intel- 
lect, and  pants  after  true  greatness.  In  mind  it  perceives 
perennial  existence,  and  in  matter  only  the  temporary  and 
humble  dwelling  place  of  its  discipline.  Immortality  is 
the  holy  land  of  its  aspirations,  and  disinterestedness  the 
altar  of  its  sacrifices.  In  self  controul  it  displays  its 
power,  and  the  obedience  of  the  passions  is  the  trophy  of 
its  victories.  All  Nature  is  the  temple  of  its  worship,  and 
in  the  inspiration  of  its  hopes  it  finds  the  source  of  its 
humility.  During  the  convulsions  of  the  physical  world, 
it  sits  in  the  composure  of  faith,  and  in  the  awe  of  admira- 
tion. In  religion  it  dwells  with  [91]  humble  rapture  upon 
the  Star  of  Bethlehem,  and  gratefully  acknowledges  the 
spirit  of  grace.  In  philanthropy  it  sees  in  every  man  a 
brother,  and  loves  to  do  him  good.  In  patriotism  it 
views,  in  the  tombs  of  ancestors,  the  sanctity  of  home;  and 


190  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

in  the  protection  of  innocence,  it  courts  a  bloody  sacrifice. 
In  love  too,  its  happiness  is  productive  of  piety,  and  the 
tenderness  of  its  sentiments  is  equalled  only  by  the  purity 
of  its  motives. 

The  day  after  leaving  the  Lake  the  weather  was  cold 
and  windy.  After  travelling  some  miles  in  a  south- 
westerly direction,  I  entered  a  beautiful  and  solitary 
wood.  It  had  more  the  appearance  of  an  improved  forest 
than  of  a  wilderness.  In  this  wood  I  sat  down  to  make 
some  remarks  in  my  journal.  I  generally  stopped  two 
or  three  times  a  day  for  this  purpose; —  sometimes  sitting 
on  a  stump,  sometimes  under  a  tree,  and  sometimes  by 
the  side  of  huge  masses  of  ice  near  the  shores  of  the  Lake. 
A  record  of  passing  scenes  and  events  should  immediately 
be  made  by  the  traveller.  By  delay,  their  impressions 
upon  his  mind  become  less  legible,  and  then  art  must  sup- 
ply, in  some  measure,  the  place  of  nature. 

The  rain  storm,  and  the  moderate  weather  of  which  I 
have  spoken,  covered  many  places  in  this  part  of  the  coun- 
try with  water  to  the  depth  of  several  feet.  Here  low 
grounds  and  prairies  made  their  appearance,  and  wading 
over  them,  through  snow,  and  water,  and  ice,  was  both 
laborious  and  painful. 

The  weather  having  again  become  cold,  the  surface  of 
the  snow  congealed  to  a  hard  crust,  so  that  my  moccasons 
and  socks  became  completely  worn  through,  and  my  feet 
much  swolen.  I  deemed  it  advisable,  as  the  remains  of 
my  moccasons  and  socks  were  no  security  to  my  feet,  and 
at  the  same  [92]  time  retarded  my  progress,  to  throw  them 
aside  and  travel  barefooted.  From  this  mode  of  travel- 
ling I  found  no  serious  inconvenience.  At  length,  how- 
ever, my  feet  swelled  to  an  alarming  size;  but  believing 
that  rest  alone  would  remove  the  evil,  and  not  being  willing 
to  afford  myself  much,  I  concluded  to  abandon  them  to 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  191 

that  possible  remedy,  which  is  incident  to  the  crisis  of  dis- 
ease and  the  influence  of  habit.  I  now  travelled  with  even 
more  industry  than  before;  and  in  the  course  of  a  few 
days  the  swelling  was  entirely  reduced :  this  experiment, 
however,  was  not  very  pleasant;  especially,  after  a  few 
hours  rest. 

I  am  confident  that  people,  who  are  exposed  to  want 
both  of  food  and  clothing,  and  also  to  pain,  suffer  much 
less  than  is  imagined;  and  particularly  so  if  their  minds 
are  engaged  in  any  interesting  undertaking.  Man  may, 
by  habit,  render  almost  any  situation  tolerable;  and  I 
agree  with  Seneca,  that  if  our  sufferings  are  not  very 
great  we  can  bear  them  with  firmness;  and  if  they  are 
very  great  we  shall  soon  be  relieved  from  them  by  death. 
During  at  least  one  half  of  the  tune  employed  in  perform- 
ing my  tour  from  New-Hampshire  to  Detroit,  I  was 
afflicted  by  the  tooth-ache;  but  notwithstanding  this  cir- 
cumstance, and  also  the  toils  and  privations  which  I  expe- 
rienced, I  do  not  remember  a  moment,  during  this  period, 
in  which  I  did  not  possess  a  balance  of  pleasure.  The 
solitude  which  surrounded  me,  the  novelty  of  my  situation, 
and  the  interesting  prospects  which  frequently  presented 
themselves,  often  rendered  me  very  happy. 

In  the  course  of  a  day  or  two  after  adopting  my  new 
mode  of  travelling,  I  was  so  fortunate  as  to  meet  with  sev- 
eral Indians,  and  of  them  I  purchased  a  pair  of  deerskin 
shoes.  Indian  women  often  accompany  the  men  in  their 
hunting  expeditions;  and  [93]  one  may  frequently  see  them 
in  the  woods  employed  in  dressing  Deer  and  Elk  skins, 
and  in  making  shoes  of  them.  They  use  the  sinews  of 
animals  and  the  fibres  of  the  inner  bark  of  trees  instead  of 
thread. 

The  weather  was  still  rather  severe,  and  the  water  be- 
neath the  surface  of  the  snow  and  ice  exceedingly  cold; 


192  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

my  health,  however,  continued  good;  and  the  only  diffi- 
culty with  which  I  had  to  contend  was  a  want  of  provisions. 
Sometimes  I  could  not  seasonably  find  game;  sometimes 
could  not  meet  with  even  an  Indian  cabin ;  and  sometimes 
even  here  scarcity  and  want  existed. 

In  this  part  of  the  country,  although  generally  level,  I 
met  with  several  very  steep  hills. 

Soon  after  passing  Black  River,45  an  inconsiderable 
stream,  the  weather  again  became  more  moderate;  and 
the  sun  shone  pleasantly.  I  reached  a  hunting  ground; 
and  here  game  was  very  plenty.  Black  and  grey  squir- 
rels, partridges,  quails,  and  deer  were  numerous.  Five 
or  six  of  the  latter  were  situated  not  far  from  me  in  a  little 
thicket.  My  garments  of  fur  caused  them  to  look  upon 
me  with  rather  an  inquisitive  than  fearful  aspect.  I  had 
never  seen  wild  deer  before,  and  they  appeared  too  inno- 
cent for  death.  I  was  only  half  disposed  to  shoot  them ; 
and  whilst  I  was  musing  upon  this  interesting  group,  they 
saw  my  dogs,  and  bounded  delightfully  over  the  hills  and 
rivulets.  My  dogs  voluntarily  pursued  them,  and  brought 
one  of  these  guileless  animals  to  the  earth. 

It  is  truly  unpleasant  to  survey  that  lengthy,  and  com- 
plicated chain  of  destruction,  which  supports  animal  life. 
From  the  animalcula  of  physical  nature  to  Behemoth 
himself,  there  is,  mutually  or  exclusively,  perpetual  car- 
nage. Man,  although  a  compound  being; — altho'  pos- 
sessing a  moral  as  well  as  a  physical  nature,  is  the  great 
devourer.  He  revels,  in  [94]  pride  and  in  luxury,  upon 
the  animal  world;  and  after  feasting  high,  employs  him- 
self in  the  butchery  of  his  own  species.  Such  is  the  aber- 
rative  power  incident  to  his  free  agency. 

The  destruction  of  animal  life  is  necessary  to  the  secur- 

41  This  stream  drains  Medina  and  Lorain  counties,  Ohio,  entering  Lake 
Erie  about  thirty  miles  west  of  Cleveland. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  193 

ity,  and  perhaps  to  the  health  of  man;  but  the  life  and 
comfort  of  animals  should  never  be  trifled  with.  It  is  the 
only  life  which  they  can  live;  their  little  light,  once  put 
out,  is  extinguished  forever. 

Upon  leaving  the  hunting  ground  I  passed  Vermillion 
River."  It  is  inconsiderable,  but  abounds  with  fish.  The 
weather  had  so  moderated,  that  there  was  much  danger 
in  passing  it  on  the  ice.  The  soil  near  this  river  is  of  a 
very  fertile  quality.  It  is  diversified  with  levels  and  gentle 
swells;  and  is  covered  with  a  valuable  growth  of  hard 
wood.  The  sugar  maple  greatly  abounds  here,  and  vast 
quantities  of  sugar  and  molasses  are  produced  from  its 
sap.  Here  too  are  frequently  found  bee-hives  containing 
from  zoo  to  200  pounds  of  honey.  Many  kinds  of  nuts 
also  grow  here  in  great  abundance;  and  the  swine  in  the 
woods  are  very  numerous.  The  boars  sometimes  become 
wild  and  fierce,  and  are  hunted  with  horses  and  dogs. 

I  have  observed,  that  the  land,  in  the  vicinity  of  Buffalo, 
is  not  so  good  as  that  which  is  east  of  it.  The  soil  appears 
to  become  better  and  better  after  crossing  the  Pennsyl- 
vania line;  and  especially  after  reaching  Vermillion  River. 
Previous  to  my  arrival  here,  however,  I  could,  owing  to 
the  snow,  judge  only  from  the  situation  of  the  land,  the 
growth  of  timber  upon  it,  and  from  information  occasion- 
ally obtained. 

On  the  8th  of  March  I  passed  Huron  River.47  The 
weather  was  moderate,  the  snow  and  ice  melted  very  fast, 
and  I  crossed  a  rapid  freshet  on  logs.  The  traveller,  after 
having  long  marched  through  deep  snows,  and  after  hav- 
ing experienced  all  the  severities  [95]  of  winter,  sees,  in 

*  For  the  Vermillion  River,  see  Croghan's  Journals,  volume  i  of  our  series, 
note  76. —  ED. 

"The  Huron  River  rises  in  northern  Ohio,  and  flowing  northwestward 
empties  into  Lake  Erie  about  nine  miles  east  of  Sandusky. —  ED. 


194  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

the  thawing  winds  of  spring,  the  hand  of  a  watchful  and 
kind  Providence.  "He  casteth  forth  his  ice  like  morsels; 
who  can  stand  before  his  cold !  He  sendeth  out  his  word, 
and  melteth  them;  he  causeth  his  wind  to  blow  and  the 
waters  to  flow." 

Soon  after  leaving  this  river  I  crossed  vast  prairies,  all 
of  which  are  rich,  but  some  of  them  are  too  wet  for  culti- 
vation. The  best  of  these  prairies  are  from  two  to  three 
feet  deep,  consisting  of  a  rich  black  mould,  and  having  a 
pan  of  limestone.  A  team  of  four  yoke  of  oxen  is  neces- 
sary to  plough  them.  The  most  proper  series  of  crops  is, 
first  wheat,  secondly  corn,  and  then,  lying  fallow,  the 
land  will  produce  a  spontaneous  growth  of  fine  grass, 
which  answers  every  necessary  purpose  of  fodder  in  this 
part  of  the  country.  Innumerable  cattle  may  be  fed  on 
these  prairies  in  summer,  and,  generally,  they  may  subsist 
here  during  a  considerable  part  of  the  winter.  An  un- 
limited quantity  of  coarse  hay  may  be  cut  here ;  growing, 
as  it  does,  spontaneously,  and  in  great  abundance.  By 
cutting  it,  the  growth  becomes  less  coarse,  and  more  secu- 
lent  and  palatable. 

Cattle  in  this  part  of  the  country  are,  in  the  summer 
season,  very  fat;  but  a  great  many  of  them  die  of  disease, 
and  often  very  suddenly.  Last  winter  they  suffered 
greatly  from  the  severity  of  the  season,  and  the  want  of 
fodder;  and  during  the  early  part  of  last  spring  many  of 
them  were  in  a  perishing  condition. 

Crops  of  wheat  here  are  very  good ;  and  the  best  of  the 
land  produces  from  40  to  60  bushels  of  corn  an  acre 
without  manure.  Indeed  manure  is  never  used  here.  In 
time,  however,  the  natural  fertility  of  the  soil  will  become 
less;  and  farmers  would  do  well,  even  here,  to  yard  their 
cattle. 

At  present,  provisions  in  this  part  of  the  country  [96] 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  195 

command  a  high  price.  The  numerous  emigrations 
thither  produce  a  scarcity.  Along  the  south  shore  of 
Lake  Erie  the  markets  will,  for  some  time  to  come,  be 
very  good.  Depos  of  provisions  are  established  here  by 
the  farmers  of  New- York,  Pennsylvania,  and  Ohio;  and 
vessels  on  the  Lake  transport  them,  during  the  spring  and 
fall,  to  Detroit  and  other  places.  Although  the  cultivator, 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Detroit,  meets  with  every 
encouragement,  agriculture  there  is  very  little  attended  to; 
the  consequence  is,  that  produce  to  a  large  amount  finds, 
from  abroad,  a  ready  market  in  that  place. 

I  now  consider  myself  in  that  part  of  the  state  of  Ohio 
which  lies  west  of  the  Connecticut  Reserve. 

Of  considerable  portions  of  the  country,  which  are  situ- 
ated between  the  Huron  and  Sandusky  rivers,  I  entertain 
a  favourable  opinion;  other  parts  of  it,  however,  are  too 
swampy  for  cultivation.  There  are  many  fine  tracts  from 
the  Pennsylvania  line  to  the  last  mentioned  place. 

The  Deer  in  the  vicinity  of  the  prairies,  of  which  I  have 
been  speaking,  are  very  large.  Some  of  them  weigh 
from  150  to  200  pounds.  Wild  turkeys  too,  are  here 
numerous,  and  they  sometimes  weigh  from  20  to  30 
pounds.  But  facts  like  these  unduly  affect  the  imagina- 
tion. These  kinds  of  game  cannot  always  be  found ;  the 
toils  of  the  chase  are  frequently  unrewarded;  and  many 
who  have  settled  in  the  west  with  lively  feelings  upon  this 
topic,  have  abandoned  this  precarious  source  of  profit. 

For  several  days  I  have  been  employed  in  crossing  vast 
prairies.  The  weather  continued  moderate,  the  snow, 
water,  and  mud  were  deep,  and  wading  laborious.  I 
frequently  met  with  considerable  freshets,  and  the  banks 
of  the  creeks  were  overflown.  Here  I  saw  vast  flocks  of 
wild  geese  flying  towards  [97]  Sandusky  Bay.  Their 
hoarse  notes,  proceeding  from  the  misty  air,  rendered 


1 96  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

even  more  solitary  a  trackless  and  almost  illimitable  plain 
of  high  and  coarse  grass.  I  was  repeatedly  lost  in  these 
prairies;  and  found  it  necessary  to  calculate  my  way  by 
compass  and  maps. 

Within  about  twenty  miles  of  the  famous  Black 
Swamp,48 1  entered,  late  in  the  afternoon,  a  dark  wood  in 
a  low  and  wet  situation.  The  weather  being  moderate,  I 
continued  to  travel  until  very  late  in  the  evening.  About 
12  o'clock  at  night  my  dogs  contended  with  a  herd  of 
wolves  and  were  both  slain.  The  winter,  until  within  a 
few  days,  having  been  very  severe,  the  wolves,  probably, 
were  very  hungry  and  ferocious.  It  is  said,  that  in  this 
part  of  the  country  they  are  very  numerous  and  bold. 
From  the  manner  in  which  the  contest  commenced,  I  am 
inclined  to  believe,  that  the  wolves,  having  issued  from 
their  dens,  had  come  to  feast  themselves.  Previous  to  the 
rencounter,  all  was  perfect  silence.  My  dogs  were  near 
me,  and  without  the  least  noise,  which  I  could  perceive, 
the  war  commenced.  It  was  sudden  and  furious. 

I  had,  for  hours,  been  experiencing  a  most  excruciating 
tooth-ache;  and  my  sense  of  hearing  was  considerably 
affected  by  it.  But  when  the  contest  began,  I,  for  a  mo- 
ment, forgot  my  infirmities,  seized  my  gun,  encouraged 
my  dogs,  and  marched  forth  in  the  most  lively  expectation 
of  achieving  some  great  victory.  It  being,  however,  very 
dark,  the  bushes  being  thick,  and  the  voice  of  the  battle 

48  The  Black  Swamp,  extending  from  the  Sandusky  to  the  Maumee  River, 
and  covering  an  area  of  over  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  in  length  and  an 
average  of  forty  in  width,  was  entirely  avoided  by  early  settlers  in  northern 
Ohio.  By  the  Indian  treaty  signed  at  Brownstown  (1808),  the  United  States 
government  acquired  a  strip  of  land  to  make  a  road  through  the  swamp;  but 
nothing  further  than  the  preliminary  surveys  being  accomplished,  the  land  was 
later  transferred  to  the  State,  and  the  first  road  completed  in  1827.  It  was 
very  little  settled  before  1830.  In  accordance  with  a  state  law  passed  in  1859, 
a  system  of  public  ditches  was  introduced,  which  rapidly  drained  the  swamp 
and  transformed  it  into  a  fertile  agricultural  region. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  197 

beginning  to  die  upon  my  ear,  a  sense  of  my  sufferings 
returned,  and  I  sought  repose  in  my  tent.  But  I  found  no 
repose  there :  the  whole  night  was  employed  in  endeavour- 
ing to  assuage  with  gun  powder  and  salt,  the  only  appli- 
cations in  my  power,  an  almost  insufferable  tooth-ache. 

[98]  My  dogs  never  returned  from  the  strife.  I  had  lost 
the  faithful,  and  disinterested  partners  of  my  toil.  I  could 
not  leave  so  interesting  a  place.  For  two  nights  and  one 
day  I  remained  upon  the  spot; —  but  for  what,  I  did  not 
know.  In  the  listlessness  of  sorrow  I  fired  my  rifle  into 
the  air.  At  length  I  realized,  that  my  dogs  had  fallen 
nobly;  and  the  sentiments  of  grief  found  a  solace  in  the 
dictates  of  pride. 

As  the  fate  of  my  dogs  is  interesting  I  may  be  permitted 
to  spend  a  moment  in  their  praise. 

They  were  not,  like  the  hounds  of  Sparta,  dewlaped 
and  flewed;  but  they  possessed  the  acuteness  of  these, 
with  the  courage  of  the  mastiff.  They  were  very  large, 
and  accustomed  to  the  strife  of  the  woods.  Tyger  was 
grave  and  intrepid.  Small  game  excited  in  him  no  inter- 
est; but  when  the  breath  of  the  foe  greeted  him  in  the 
breeze,  he  surveyed,  at  a  glance,  and  with  a  lofty  aspect 
the  surrounding  wood.  Slow,  steady,  and  firm  in  pursuit, 
he  remained  silent  until  the  object  of  his  search  was  found ; 
and  then,  a  cry  more  terrible  than  his 

"Was  never  hallowed  to, 

Nor  check'd  with  horn  in  Crete  or  Thessaly." 

He  had  lost  an  eye  in  the  battles  of  the  mountains,  and 
was,  in  every  sense  of  the  word,  a  veteran. 

Pomp  was  active,  generous,  affectionate,  and  in  courage 
and  perseverance  unrivalled.  In  the  night,  it  was  his 
custom  to  pillow  his  head  upon  his  master's  breast;  and 
he  ever  seemed  concerned  to  guard  him  from  the  dangers 
of  an  unsheltered  repose. 


198  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

Perhaps  too  I  may  here  notice  some  traits  in  the  charac- 
ter of  the  wolf.  The  countenance  of  this  animal  evinces 
both  cunning  and  ferocity.  The  length  of  his  body  is 
generally  about  four  feet,  the  legs  from  fifteen  to  eighteen 
inches,  the  circumference  of  [99]  the  body  from  two  and 
an  half  to  three  feet,  and  the  tail  sixteen  inches  in  length. 
The  colour  of  the  wolf  is  a  mixture  of  light  and  brown 
with  streaks  of  grey.  His  hah-  is  long,  rough,  and  very 
coarse;  his  tail  is  bushy,  something  like  that  of  a  fox,  his 
body  is  generally  gaunt,  his  limbs  are  muscular,  and  his 
strength  very  great :  with  perfect  ease  he  can  carry  a  sheep 
in  his  mouth. 

The  cunning  and  agility  of  this  animal  are  equal  to  his 
strength;  and  his  appetite  for  animal  food  is  exceedingly 
voracious; — so  much  so,  that  he  often  dies  in  pining  for 
it.  When  his  hunger  is  very  imperious,  even  man  be- 
comes the  object  of  his  ferocity.  His  sense  of  smelling  is 
so  acute,  that  at  the  distance  of  three  leagues,  a  carcass 
will  attract  his  attention.  The  wolf  is  a  very  solitary  ani- 
mal; and  never  associates  with  his  species  but  for  the 
purpose  of  attacking  a  human  being,  or  some  animal  of 
which  he  is  individually  afraid ;  and  when  the  object  of 
the  combination  is  effected,  each  retires  sullenly  to  his 
den. 

It  appears  by  the  early  stages  of  English  history,  that 
wolves  in  England  have  been  so  formidable  as  to  attract 
the  particular  attention  of  the  King;  and  even  as  late  as 
Edward  the  first,  a  superintendant  was  appointed  for  the 
extirpation  of  this  dangerous  and  destructive  animal. 

I  may  add  that  not  long  after  the  loss  of  my  dogs  I 
reached,  just  before  night,  a  solitary  log  hut ;  and  in  about 
an  hour  after  a  wolf  howled  at  the  door. 

Leaving  the  field  of  battle,  I  moved  on  towards  San- 
dusky  rapids.  My  health  had  suffered  by  fatigue  and 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  199 

want  of  sleep.  The  weather  was  still  moderate;  and  the 
water,  rushing  through  the  vallies,  seemed  to  sing  the 
requiem  of  my  lost  companions.  My  lone  steps  too, 
through  the  streams,  forcibly  reminded  me  of  their 
absence. 

[100]  In  the  course  of  the  day  I  passed  over  the  low  and 
swampy  grounds,  and  the  prospect  became  a  little  diver- 
sified. A  few  small  yet  steep  hills  presented  themselves. 
Here  the  soil  is  fertile  and  the  growth  of  timber  elegant ; 
upon  one  spacious  rise  of  ground  near  these,  however,  there 
are  a  few  scattering  oaks,  and  the  soil  is  thin  and  sterile. 

The  following  night  I  heard  the  howling  of  some  beasts 
of  prey,  and  apprehended  an  attack.  I  newly  primed  my 
gun  and  pistols;  but  my  ragged  domicil  was  not  invaded. 

A  day  or  two  after,  I  reached  Sandusky  Rapids.49  The 
land  in  the  vicinity  of  this  river  is  very  fertile.  The  hill, 
a  little  west  of  the  river,  is  high,  and  its  summit  constitutes 
a  vast  plain  of  rich  land.  A  town,  I  understand,  is  here 
to  be  laid  out.  The  soil  below  the  hill,  on  both  sides  of 
the  river,  is  also  very  rich;  but  the  situation  is  too  low  to 
be  pleasant,  and  must,  I  think,  be  unhealthy.  On  the 
west  of  the  river  are  a  few  scattering  houses.  The  river 
at  the  rapids  is  about  thirty  rods  wide ;  and  when  I  crossed 
it,  it  was  full  of  floating  ice.  The  velocity  of  the  current 
was  great.  Sandusky  Bay  is  situated  about  eighteen 
miles  below  the  rapids;  and  Upper  Sandusky  lies  about 
forty  miles  above  them.50  Upon  this  river  are  situated 
several  tribes  of  Wyandot  and  Seneca  Indians;  and  the 

41  These  rapids  of  the  Sandusky  River  were  located  about  eighteen  miles 
from  where  the  river  empties  into  Sandusky  Bay,  Lake  Erie. —  ED. 

10  Upper  Sandusky  was  formerly  the  seat  of  a  Wyandot  settlement.  Near 
there,  Crawford  was  defeated  by  the  Indians  (June,  1782)  and  subsequently 
tortured  to  death.  General  Harrison  built  a  temporary  fort  at  that  point  dur- 
ing the  War  of  1812-15.  For  the  Wyandot  villages  on  the  Sandusky,  see 
Weiser's  Journal,  volume  i  of  our  series,  note  26. —  ED. 


200  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

United  States  derived  from  them  by  the  treaty  of  Green- 
ville, two  small  tracts  of  land  lying  upon  the  banks  of  the 
above  mentioned  river  and  bay." 

At  a  little  distance  from  the  western  bank  of  the  lower 
rapids  of  this  river  is  Fort  Sandusky,  which  was,  during 
the  late  war,  so  nobly  and  effectually  defended  by  the 
youthful  Croghan.62  I  examined  this  post  with  much  at- 
tention and  interest.  Its  means  of  annoyance  must  have 
been  in  itself,  inconsiderable;  but  the  genius  of  a  Croghan, 
supported  by  one  [101]  hundred  and  sixty  patriotic  and 
unyielding  spirits,  defended  it  against  the  repeated 
and  embittered  efforts  of  five  hundred  British  regu- 
lars, and  seven  hundred  Indians,  aided  by  several  gun- 
boats and  some  pieces  of  artillery.  The  beseiged  had 
only  one  six  pounder.  This  they  masked  until  the 
enemy  leaped  into  the  ditch,  and  then  it  swept  them 
with  dreadful  carnage.  This  defence  is  beyond  praise. 

After  remaining  at  Sandusky  a  few  hours  I  entered  the 

M  For  the  events  leading  up  to  the  treaty,  see  ante,  note  n.  It  was  signed 
(August  3,  1795)  by  ninety  chiefs  and  delegates  from  twelve  tribes,  and  estab- 
lished the  following  Indian  boundary  line:  up  the  Cuyahoga  River  and  across 
the  Tuscarawas  portage  to  a  point  near  Fort  Laurens,  thence  southwest  to 
Laramie's  Station,  thence  northwest  to  Fort  Recovery,  and  thence  southwest 
to  the  Ohio,  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Kentucky  River. —  ED. 

M  This  stockade,  better  known  as  Fort  Stephenson,  was  constructed  in  the 
spring  of  1813.  In  August  following,  it  was  attacked  by  General  Proctor  as 
here  related.  The  British  troops  stormed  it  fiercely  for  two  hours,  all  their 
officers  and  a  fifth  of  their  men  being  killed  or  wounded. 

George  Croghan,  a  nephew  of  George  Rogers  Clark,  was  born  at  Locust 
Grove,  near  Louisville,  Kentucky,  November,  1791.  Graduating  from  Wil- 
liam and  Mary's  College  (1810)  he  entered  the  army  and  took  part  in  the  bat- 
tle of  Tippecanoe.  He  so  distinguished  himself  at  the  siege  of  Fort  Meigs  that 
he  was  promoted  to  the  rank  of  major,  and  placed  in  charge  of  Fort  Stephen- 
son.  For  his  gallant  defense  of  this  post,  he  was  voted  a  medal  by  Congress. 
After  an  unsuccessful  attack  on  Fort  Mackinac  (1814),  he  left  the  army  for  a 
short  time  and  acted  as  postmaster  at  New  Orleans.  In  1823  he  re-entered  the 
army,  was  made  inspector-general  with  the  rank  of  colonel,  and  later  served 
with  distinction  in  the  Mexican  War.  See  Williams,  "George  Croghan, ' '  in 
Ohio  Archaeological  and  Historical  Society  Publications,  xii,  pp.  375-409. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  201 

celebrated  Black  Swamp.  It  was  in  its  very  worst  state. 
In  my  journal  I  observe,  that  I  will  not  attempt  to  de- 
scribe it.  There  was  an  unusual  quantity  of  snow  and 
ice  upon  the  ground;  and  the  weather  being  moderate 
the  water  rapidly  increased.  The  distance  across  the 
swamp  is  forty  miles.  The  wading  was  continually  deep, 
the  bushes  thick,  and  the  surface  of  the  earth  frozen  and 
full  of  holes.  What  was  worse  than  all,  the  ice,  not  yet 
separated  and  nearly  strong  enough  to  bear  one,  was  con- 
tinually breaking  and  letting  the  traveller  into  water 
from  two  to  four  feet  in  depth.  The  creeks  there  too  are 
numerous,  and  the  ice  in  them  was  broken  up.  The 
freshets  were  great,  the  banks  of  the  creeks  overflown,  and 
the  whole  country  inundated.  In  proceeding  through  the 
swamp  I  was  constantly  employed  in  making  great  ex- 
ertions for  nearly  four  days.  The  weight  of  my  dress  and 
baggage  was  a  very  great  incumbrance  to  me;  but  my 
buffalo  pantaloons  were  a  defence  against  the  thick  yet 
brittle  ice  through  which  I  was  continually  breaking. 

At  the  edge  of  the  swamp  I  saw  an  Indian  passing  across 
a  neck  of  land  on  the  Sandusky;  and  I  hailed  him,  for 
the  purpose  of  obtaining  some  information  as  to  the  best 
way  through  this  trackless  wild;  but  he  either  could  not 
speak  English,  or  pretended  that  this  was  the  case.  It  is 
said  that  they  [102]  frequently  do  so.  Soon  after,  I  met 
with  three  Indians,  together  with  one  white  man.  The 
white  man  was  a  little  intoxicated,  and  had,  they  said, 
engaged  to  do  some  work  for  them  but  had  run  away. 
Whilst  I  was  obtaining  from  them  information  as  to  my 
course,  the  white  man,  falling  a  little  behind,  again  de- 
serted. My  rifle  was  immediately  seized  by  the  Indians 
for  the  purpose  of  shooting  him;  but  by  great  exertions 
I  held  it,  until  the  man  was  out  of  sight,  and  then  they 
desisted  and  pursued  him.  I  marched  on. 


202  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

Towards  evening  I  found  a  small  elevation  of  land,  and 
there  encamped  for  the  night.  My  little  fire  appeared 
like  a  star  on  the  bosom  of  ocean.  Earth  was  my  couch, 
and  my  covering  the  brilliant  canopy  of  Heaven.  After 
preparing  my  supper,  I  slept  in  peace ;  but  was  awakened, 
at  day-light,  by  a  high  wind  accompanied  by  rain.  Ere 
I  arose,  the  lofty  trees  shaken  by  the  tempest  seemed  ready 
to  fall  upon  me.  During  the  evening,  such  was  the  still- 
ness of  the  situation,  and  such  the  splendour  of  the  firma- 
ment, that  nothing  but  fatigue  could  have  checked  the 
current  of  reflection.  How  great  are  the  advantages  of 
solitude! — How  sublime  is  the  silence  of  nature's  ever 
active  energies!  There  is  something  in  the  very  name 
of  wilderness,  which  charms  the  ear,  and  soothes  the 
spirit  of  man.  There  is  religion  in  it. —  The  children  of 
Israel  were  in  the  wilderness,  and  it  was  a  type  of  this 
world !  They  sought  too  the  Land  of  Promise,  and  this 
was  a  type  of  Heaven. 

The  next  morning  I  renewed  my  exertions.  The 
weather  was  lowering  and  cold.  I  found  it  necessary  to 
wade  through  water  of  the  depth  of  four  or  five  feet,  and 
my  clothes  were  covered  with  icicles.  About  noon  I  ar- 
rived at  a  creek,  a  little  to  the  east  of  Charon  river,"  and 
found  much  difficulty  and  danger  [103]  in  crossing  it.  The 
channel  of  the  creek  was  very  deep,  and  its  banks  over- 
flown, on  both  sides,  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  After  wad- 
ing some  way,  I  reached  the  channel,  and  by  the  aid  of  a 
fallen  tree  and  some  floating  logs  crossed  it;  the  current, 
however,  was  so  rapid,  that  upon  the  fallen  tree  lying  un- 
der the  surface,  I  could  scarcely  keep  upon  my  feet:  a 
single  mis-step  would  have  been  fatal. 

Immediately  after  crossing  the  channel,  I  found  the 
water  about  four  feet  deep;  and  its  depth  soon  increased 

M  Portage  River,  entering  into  Sandusky  Bay  from  Wood  County. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  203 

so  as  to  reach  my  shoulders.  Here  I  stopped  to  survey 
my  situation.  Although  the  trees  in  this  place  were  large 
and  scattering,  I  could  not  perceive  the  land.  The  pros- 
pect reminded  me  of  the  Lake  of  the  Woods.  After  wad- 
ing up  and  down  for  some  time,  in  the  hope  of  finding  the 
water  less  deep,  I  concluded  to  re-cross  the  channel  and 
endeavour  to  obtain  a  fordable  place  in  some  other  direc- 
tion ;  but  in  attempting  to  return,  a  large  and  decayed  log, 
upon  which  I  had  floated  and  upon  which  the  impression 
of  my  feet  had  been  left,  could  not  be  found.  I  was  here 
completely  bewildered.  Alone,  nearly  up  to  my  neck  in 
water,  apparently  in  the  midst  of  a  shoreless  ocean,  being 
too  without  my  dogs,  which  used  to  swim  around  me 
when  crossing  such  places,  my  situation  was  rather  un- 
pleasant; the  novelty  of  it,  however,  together  with  my 
apparent  inability  to  extricate  myself  produced  a  resource- 
less  smile.  After  a  while,  I  repassed  the  channel  of  the 
creek;  and  finally,  by  much  labour  and  with  great  hazard, 
reached  the  western  shore. 

During  a  part  of  this  day  it  rained ;  and  so  solitary  was 
the  aspect  of  every  thing  around  me,  that  a  very  eloquent 
idea  of  the  pious  orator  of  Uz  naturally  presented  itself: — 

"To  cause  it  to  rain  on  the  earth,  where  no  man  is; — 
On  the  wilderness,  where  there  is  no  man." 

[104]  The  next  day  the  weather  was  severe.  The  ice 
among  the  bushes  had  become  harder;  but  still  it  would 
not  bear  me,  and  the  water  was  exceedingly  cold.  Icicles 
formed  upon  my  clothes  almost  immediately.  I  was 
continually  wading  in  a  greater  or  less  depth  of  water  dur- 
ing the  whole  day;  and  sometimes  travelled  for  miles  in 
three  or  four  feet  of  it  without  cessation.  Travelling 
through  such  a  depth  of  water  where  the  ice  breaks  at  al- 
most every  step  is  exceedingly  laborious.  During  this  day 
too,  I  passed  several  deep  and  rapid  creeks  in  the  usual 


204  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

way.  At  dusk  I  fell  in  with  about  twenty  Indians  of  the 
Wyandot  Tribe.  They  were  encamped  on  a  small  rise  of 
land  which,  however,  was  rather  wet.  They  had  recently 
come  from  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Meigs,  and  were  travelling 
to  some  hunting  ground.  Their  condition  was  deplorable. 
They  had,  the  day  before,  buried  one  of  their  company, 
another  of  them  was  very  sick,  and  they  had  no  provisions. 
I  had  but  a  trifle  myself,  and  the  wants  of  the  sick  In- 
dian rendered  me  supperless. 

These  Indians  surveyed  me  with  rather  a  grave  and 
distant  aspect;  but  with  one  of  them,  who  could  speak 
English,  I  became  well  acquainted.  In  the  course  of  the 
evening  some  strips  of  bark  were  prepared  to  keep  me 
from  the  ground;  but  my  clothes  being  wet,  and  having 
no  covering  it  was  impossible  for  me  to  sleep.  Indeed  so 
cold  was  the  night,  that  the  next  morning  the  swamp  was 
frozen  very  hard.  My  Indian  friend  called  himself  Will 
Siscomb;  and  with  him  I  conversed  respecting  the  Great 
Spirit.  During  the  night  I  perceived,  that  the  poor  Indians 
suffered  much  from  cold,  and  from  the  smoke  of  their  fire. 
They,  however,  beguiled  the  time  by  their  rude  songs. 

Very  early  the  next  morning  I  left  this  tawny  group, 
and  in  the  course  of  the  day  arrived  at  Fort  Meigs. 

[105]  Here  the  Black,  or  Miami  Swamp  terminates; 
but  for  fifty  miles  east  of  this  tract,  and  for  the  same  dis- 
tance west  of  Fort  Meigs,  the  country  is  generally  level, 
covered  with  trees,  bushes,  and  long  grass,  and  in  the 
spring  of  the  year  very  wet. 

I  had  long  been  wishing  to  see  Fort  Meigs;  and  there  I 
rested,  for  an  hour,  my  weary  feet."  The  Fort  is  very 
large,  and  its  situation  is  somewhat  commanding.  The 

"Across  the  river  from  the  present  Maumee  City,  Henry  County,  Ohio. 
This  fort,  built  in  February,  1813,  was  twice  besieged  during  that  year  by  the 
British  and  their  Indian  allies  under  Tecumseh,  but  was  not  captured. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  205 

Miami  of  the  Lake  runs  about  a  half  mile  west  of  the 
Fort;  and  the  river  is  here  about  one  third  of  a  mile  wide. 

I  have  understood,  of  late,  that  the  courage  and  con- 
duct of  General  Harrison,  who  commanded  at  Fort  Meigs 
in  the  course  of  the  last  war,  was  questionable.  I  shall 
take  the  liberty  to  express  a  few  ideas  upon  this  topic,  be- 
cause it  is  natural  for  one  to  advocate  the  cause  of  a  brave 
man,  whose  courage  has  been  denied,  and  that  too,  per- 
haps, by  the  most  contemptible  combination  of  cowardice 
and  envy. 

The  spirit  of  detraction  is  at  once  malignant  and  cow- 
ardly. It  possesses  the  capacity  to  injure,  and  at  the  same 
time  the  means  of  shielding  itself  from  detection.  A  sin- 
gle breath  may  tarnish  the  brightest  character;  the  world, 
therefore,  for  its  own  sake,  as  well  as  for  the  sake  of  justice 
and  humanity,  should  listen  with  a  jealous  ear  to  the 
tongue  of  slander. 

I  never  had  the  honour  of  seeing  General  Harrison; 
but  what,  I  ask,  are  the  grounds  of  the  charge  against 
him  ?  General  Harrison  was  a  fellow  soldier  and  disciple 
of  the  wary  and  energetic  General  Wayne.  His  knowl- 
edge of  military  tactics  is  very  extensive,  and  his  courage, 
for  ought  I  can  see,  is  of  a  high  order.  Up  to  the  time  of 
the  bloody  battle  of  Tippecanoe,  the  government,  no 
doubt,  thought  him  brave;  and  here  he  was  truly  so.  At 
Fort  Meigs  too,  he  undauntedly  maintained  [106]  his 
position,  in  the  midst  of  a  wilderness,  surrounded  by 
hordes  of  savages,  headed  by  Tecumseh,  and  supported 
by  regular  troops  commanded  by  the  blood-thirsty  Proc- 
tor. Afterwards  he  met  and  defeated  the  enemy  at  the 
River  Thames. 

Probably  his  courage  was  questioned,  because  he  did 
not,  whilst  unprepared,  press  on  to  Detroit,  and  expose  his 
forces  to  that  destruction  which  befel  those  of  Winches- 


20 6  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

ter.55  Many  an  ignorant  militia  man,  and  inexperienced 
young  officer,  would  have  recommended  such  a  course. 
But  Harrison,  well  acquainted  with  the  requisites  of  an 
army,  well  versed  in  the  stratagems  of  savage  warfare,  and 
knowing  well  the  exposed  situation  of  the  frontier,  thought 
best  to  remain  where  he  was  until  his  own  situation,  or 
that  of  the  enemy  should  warrant  an  attempt  to  proceed. 
Had  he  marched  further  west,  and  by  so  doing  been  de- 
feated, every  settlement  and  log  hut  on  the  southern  shore 
of  Lake  Erie  would  have  been  ravaged,  and  their  inhabi- 
tants, probably,  consigned  to  savage  fury. 

At  the  foot  of  the  hill,  upon  which  is  Fort  Meigs,  there 
are  a  few  log  houses.  The  situation  under  the  hill  is  very 
low,  and  the  soil  rich.  The  river  here  is  called  the  Miami, 
of  the  Lake,  to  distinguish  it  from  the  Great  Miami,  and 
Little  Miami  rivers,  which  discharge  then*  waters  into  the 
Ohio. 

When  I  arrived  at  the  Miami  of  the  Lake,  its  banks  had 
been  so  overflown  as  to  pile  up  about  the  houses  huge 
masses  of  ice.  The  water  had  risen  so  as  to  flow  through 
the  windows,  and  many  swine  and  other  domestic  animals 
were  swept  from  the  yards. 

I  found  the  velocity  of  the  rapids  very  great ;  and  there 
was  much  danger  in  crossing  them.  The  opposite  bank 
is  pleasantly  diversified,  and  its  soil  is  very  fertile.  Here 
Colonel  Dudley,  commanding  [107]  a  detachment  from 
Fort  Meigs,  during  the  last  war,  gallantly  compelled  the 
enemy  to  retreat;  but  owing  to  the  imprudent  zeal  of  his 
brave  men,  both  them  and  himself  were  ambushed  and 
slain."  Upon  this  river  are  situated  the  Vermillion  and 
other  tribes  of  Indians. 


"  At  the  Raisin  River,  see  post,  note  63. —  ED. 

"  While  General  Proctor  was  besieging  Fort  Meigs  (May,  1813),  Colonel 
Dudley  with  eight  hundred  Kentucky  militia  descended  the  rapids  and  sur- 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  207 

The  Miami  of  the  Lake  extends  above  Fort  Meigs  to 
Fort  Wayne,67  a  distance  of  about  one  hundred  miles,  and 
then  branches  to  the  right  and  left ;  one  of  which  branches 
proceeds  in  the  direction  of  the  sources  of  the  Illinois  river, 
and  within  about  fifteen  miles  of  St.  Joseph's  river,  which 
enters  Lake  Michigan;  and  the  other  in  that  of  those  of 
the  Great  Miami  river.  Between  a  minor  branch  of  the 
Miami  of  the  Lake  and  the  Great  Miami  there  is  a  por- 
tage of  five  miles.  The  name  of  one  of  the  first  men- 
tioned branches  is  St.  Mary,  and  constitutes  the  river  of 
this  name.  On  this  river  is  situated  Fort  Adams;  and 
about  half  way  between  Fort  Wayne  and  Miami  Bay  is 
Fort  Defiance."  The  navigation  of  the  main  stream,  for 
vessels,  extends  only  a  short  distance  above  Fort  Meigs; 
and  from  this  place  to  Miami  Bay  the  distance  is  eighteen 
miles.  Near  this  Bay  is  Fort  Miami,  which  was  built  by 
the  British  in  1794."  About  fifteen  miles  beyond  the 

prised  the  British,  driving  them  from  their  battery  and  spiking  their  cannon. 
But,  too  elated  by  success  to  enter  the  fort  as  ordered,  they  pursued  the  enemy 
for  nearly  two  miles  into  the  woods  and  swamps,  and  were  finally  surrounded 
and  captured. —  ED. 

"  After  the  battle  of  Fallen  Timbers,  General  Wayne  (September,  1794) 
proceeded  to  destroy  the  Miami  villages  at  the  junction  of  the  St.  Mary  and  St. 
Josephs  rivers,  and  there  built  Fort  Wayne.  It  had  long  been  a  centre  of 
Indian  trade,  and  the  French  had  maintained  a  post  there  through  the  first 
half  of  the  eighteenth  century.  See  Croghan's  Journals,  volume  i  of  our  series, 
note  87. —  ED. 

"General  Wayne  destroyed  the  Indian  villages  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Auglaize  and  Maumee  rivers  (August,  1794),  and  established  Fort  Defiance  at 
that  point.  On  his  march  from  Fort  Recovery  for  that  purpose,  he  also  built 
Fort  Adams  at  the  place  where  he  crossed  St.  Mary's  River,  at  Girtystown,  an 
old  Indian  trading  place  twenty-five  miles  north  of  Fort  Recovery.  For  the 
history  of  the  forts  of  Ohio,  see  Graham,  "Military  Posts  in  Ohio,"  in  Ohio 
Archaeological  and  Historical  Society  Publications,  vol.  iii.—  ED. 

"  The  building  of  Fort  Miami  by  the  British  in  a  time  of  peace  between 
that  nation  and  the  United  States  (1794)  was  one  of  the  grievances  of  the 
frontiersmen.  After  Wayne's  victory,  the  Indians  were  chased  to  the  gates  of 
Fort  Miami.  The  British  surrendered  this  fort  with  the  other  Northwest 
posts  in  1796.  The  Americans  made  the  post  at  this  place  the  rendezvous 
for  the  campaign  of  1812-13. —  ED. 


20 8  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

Miami  of  the  Lake,  is  the  line  between  the  State  of  Ohio 
and  Michigan  territory. 

For  twenty  miles  west  of  this  river  there  are  some 
rises  of  land,  the  soil  of  which  is  light,  and  the  growth 
of  timber  upon  them  is  principally  white  oak.  In  travel- 
ling this  distance  I  crossed  several  creeks,  with  much 
difficulty  and  hazard.  Up  and  down  the  bank  of  one  of 
them  I  marched  for  hours  before  I  could  find  a  single 
tree  or  log  to  float  upon.  Just  before  reaching  this  creek 
a  bear  crossed  my  path;  but  having  no  dogs  I  could  not 
overtake  him. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  last  mentioned  creek,  [108]  ar- 
rived at  another,  which  furnished  more  means  of  crossing, 
but  in  the  employment  of  which  there  was  the  greatest 
peril.  A  tree  lay  part  of  the  way  across  the  channel  of  the 
creek  with  its  top  towards  me;  but  being  very  large  its 
trunk  had  sunk  far  below  the  surface  of  the  current,  so 
that  I  could  walk  only  on  its  crooked  branches.  Having 
my  gun  too,  I  could  employ  but  one  hand  in  supporting 
myself,  and  sometimes  could  reach  no  limb  for  the  em- 
ployment even  of  that.  After  crossing  a  part  of  the  chan- 
nel, I  found  the  large  end  of  the  tree  several  feet  below  the 
surface  of  the  water;  and  it  was  disposed  to  sink  further. 
At  the  distance  of  several  feet  from  the  end  of  it  was  a 
high  stump;  and  from  this  to  the  shore  there  was  a  space 
of  water  a  few  feet  in  depth.  I  could  take  no  other  course 
than  to  note  the  direction  and  extent  of  the  body  of  the 
tree,  walk  quickly  to  its  end,  spring  to  the  stump,  and 
from  that  to  the  shore.  I  effected  my  object;  but  was 
never  more  sensible  of  the  protecting  hand  of  Providence. 
The  water  of  the  creek  was  exceedingly  cold,  and  the  chill 
of  evening  was  approaching. 

It  was  now  the  i;th  of  March,  the  ground  was  frozen, 
and  the  travelling  very  rough  and  painful.  In  the  fore- 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  209 

noon  I  passed  the  Bay  Settlement.80  This  place  contains 
several  scattering  houses,  which  are  occupied  principally 
by  French  people ;  and  the  aspect  of  the  whole  country  is 
that  of  an  illimitable  marsh.  Some  parts  of  this  tract  of 
prairie  are  too  wet  for  cultivation.  A  few  miles  east  of 
the  Bay  there  are  several  rises  of  land,  the  soil  of  which 
is  light  and  well  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  wheat. 

Towards  evening  I  reached  the  River  Raisin.  At  the 
distance  of  a  few  miles  east  of  it,  I  entered  the  Military 
Road,  of  which  the  public  papers  have  spoken,  and  which 
leads  to  the  old  roads  in  the  vicinity  of  Detroit.61  This 
road  is  cut  through  a  perfect  wilderness  [109]  of  a  large 
growth  of  timber.  It  is  very  wide,  and  entirely  free  from 
stumps.  The  plan  of  it,  and  the  manner  in  which  the 
work  has  been  executed,  speak  favourably  of  the  judgment 
and  fidelity  of  the  military  department. 

The  travelling  on  this  road  is,  in  the  spring  of  the  year, 
very  heavy;  and  a  person  on  foot  is  much  annoyed  by  the 
sharp  points  of  bushes  which  are  concealed  by  the  mud. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  road  the  country  becomes 
rather  elevated,  is  highly  fertile,  is  covered  with  a  superb 
growth  of  timber,  and  is  intersected  with  streams  well  cal- 
culated for  mills. 

On  the  River  Raisin  stands  Frenchtown,  an  ancient  and 
considerable  settlement.82  The  inhabitants  on  the  river 

*°  This  was  probably  the  village  at  the  mouth  of  Otter  Creek,  forty-two 
miles  southwest  of  Detroit.  The  land  had  been  purchased  from  the  Indians 
and  settlement  begun  in  1794. —  ED. 

M  This  road,  begun  under  the  direction  of  the  secretary  of  war,  May,  1816, 
was  built  by  soldiers  stationed  at  Detroit.  By  November,  1818,  seventy  miles 
had  been  completed.  It  was  eighty  feet  wide  and  contained  over  sixty  cause- 
ways and  many  bridges. —  ED. 

**  In  1784  a  small  body  of  French  Canadians  purchased  land  from  the  In- 
dians and  settled  at  the  mouth  of  Raisin  River,  forty  miles  south  of  Detroit. 
They  traded  in  furs  with  the  agents  of  the  North  West  Company.  In  1812  the 
village  contained  about  forty-five  French  families  andja  few  Americans.  It  has 
now  been  incorporated  in  the  city  of  Monroe. —  ED. 


2 1  o  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

are  principally  French;  but  the  American  population  is 
rapidly  increasing.  The  soil  here  is  of  an  excellent  qual- 
ity, and  in  high  repute.  The  river,  at  the  settlement,  is 
about  sixty  rods  wide,  and  it  is  navigable  to  Lake  Erie,  a 
distance  of  about  twelve  miles.  The  river  has  been  ex- 
plored for  about  seventy  miles  above  Frenchtown ;  and  be- 
yond this  distance  the  country  is  but  little  known.  The 
land  above  the  settlement  is  said  to  be  even  better  than  in 
its  immediate  vicinity.  The  name  of  the  river  comports 
well  with  the  nature  of  the  soil;  it  may  be  rendered,  in 
English,  river  of  grapes. 

I  approached  this  river  with  a  light  step  and  a  heavy 
heart.  Hundreds  of  my  gallant  countrymen  had  there 
fallen  victims  to  British  barbarity.  Who  has  heard  with- 
out horror,  of  the  massacre  at  the  River  Raisin  !83  When 
I  arrived  at  this  bloody  field,  the  snow  had  left  the  hillocks, 
and  the  grass  began  to  vegetate  upon  the  soldier's  grave. 
The  sun  was  setting  in  sadness,  and  seemed  not  yet  to 
have  left  off  his  weeds.  The  wind  from  the  north,  cross- 
ing [no]  the  icy  vales,  rebuked  the  unconscious  spring;  and 
the  floating  ice,  striking  against  the  banks  of  the  river, 
spake  of  the  warrior  souls,  pressing  for  waftage  across  the 
gulph  of  death. 

In  speaking  of  our  too  general  employment  of  militia, 
I  suggested,  that  in  another  place  I  should  offer  some  re- 
flections upon  the  subject  of  war. 

Nothing  but  the  influence  of  example,  and  the  ability  of 

M  General  Winchester,  having  reached  the  Maumee  Rapids,  did  not  wait 
for  the  remainder  of  the  army  under  Harrison,  but  proceeded  to  Frenchtown, 
although  his  men  had  little  ammunition  and  the  town  was  unprotected,  save 
for  a  line  of  pickets.  Proctor,  the  British  general,  crossed  from  Maiden  and 
attacked  him,  January  22,  1813.  A  panic  seizing  one  portion  of  the  army  they 
fled  to  the  woods  where  they  were  overtaken  and  most  of  them  scalped  by  the 
Indians;  the  militia  at  the  same  time  surrendering  to  Proctor.  Without  pro- 
viding sufficient  protection  for  the  wounded  left  at  Frenchtown,  this  general 
hastened  back  to  Canada,  and  the  following  morning  a  horde  of  painted  savages 
broke  into  the  town  and  shot  and  scalped  the  helpless  prisoners. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  211 

the  human  mind  readily  to  accustom  itself  to  crime  and 
carnage,  prevents  us  from  being  shocked  by  sanguinary 
contests  between  civilized  communities.  How  astonish- 
ing is  it,  that  nations,  acquainted  with  the  feelings  and 
principles  of  humanity,  instructed  by  the  precepts  and  ex- 
ample of  the  Prince  of  Peace,  and  living  in  the  hopes  of 
Heaven,  should  send  armies  into  the  field  to  butcher  each 
other!  The  practice  is  indeed  a  disgrace  to  human  na- 
ture; and  the  mournful  consequences  of  it  must  make  the 
Angels  weep.  How  often  has  the  hostile  foot  suddenly 
assailed  the  ear  of  apprehension!  How  often  has  war 
driven  man  from  his  home,  and  blasted  forever  his  plans 
of  domestic  happiness !  How  often  is  the  wife  called  upon 
to  mourn  her  husband  slain! — The  father  his  son,  the 
pride  and  the  glory  of  his  old  age ! —  The  son  his  father, 
the  instructor  and  the  guide  of  his  youth ! —  The  brother, 
his  brother  of  love! — And  the  maiden,  the  blooming 
youth, —  the  secret  joy  of  her  soul ! 

A  state  of  war  is  demoralizing  in  many  points  of  view. 
It  opens  a  wide  door  to  selfish  ambition, —  to  intrigue, 
avarice,  and  to  all  their  concomitant  crimes.  A  habit  of 
engaging  in  war  is  very  soon  acquired ;  and  then  the  feel- 
ings, and  pecuniary  interests  of  a  considerable  portion  of 
the  community,  renders,  to  them,  such  a  state  desirable. 
Under  such  a  state  of  things,  the  defence  of  national  lib- 
erty is  often  the  insincere  apology  for  invasion;  and  the 
splendour  [in]  of  military  parade,  captivating  the  heart, 
darkens  the  understanding,  and  silences  the  voice  of  con- 
science. The  true  nature  of  freedom  is  here  overlooked ; 
passion  supplies  the  place  of  reason;  and  false  glory  is 
substituted  for  national  respectability.  Upon  these 
grounds,  the  eclat  of  military  achievements  undermines 
the  virtue  of  the  state,  and  military  tyranny  usurps  the 
place  of  rational  government. 

The  evil  effects  of  war  are  incalculable.    They  con- 


212  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

tinue  to  operate  for  ages,  and  materially  affect  the  ulti- 
mate destinies  of  nations.  War,  however,  is  sometimes 
necessary:  but  self  defence, —  in  the  largest  sense  of  the 
phrase;  self  defence,  both  at  home  and  on  Nature's  Com- 
mons;—  self  defence  directly  and  indirectly,  is  the  only 
ground  upon  which  it  should  be  waged.  Here  Heaven 
will  always  smile,  and  freemen  always  conquer. 

On  the  1 8th  and  iQth  of  March  I  passed  the  battle 
grounds  of  Brownstown  and  Magagua.64  Near  the  for- 
mer place  Major  Vanhorn,  commanding  a  detachment  of 
one  hundred  and  fifty  men,  was  suddenly  attacked,  on  all 
sides,  by  British  regulars  and  Indians.  The  Americans 
made  a  spirited  resistance,  and  after  suffering  severely 
effected  a  retreat.  Soon  after  this  affair  another  detach- 
ment, under  Lieutenant  Colonel  Miller,  consisting  of  three 
hundred  of  the  veteran  4th  regiment,  and  also  about  two 
hundred  militia,  were  sent  to  accomplish  the  object  of  Van- 
horn's  march,  which  was  to  support  Capt.  Brush,  who 
was  encamped  at  the  River  Raisin,  and  who  was  destined 
for  Detroit  with  provisions  for  our  army  then  in  possession 
of  Sandwich.  The  enemy  anticipating  another  attempt 
to  accomplish  the  object,  immediately  obtained  reinforce- 
ments, and  lay  in  ambush  near  the  former  battle  ground. 
The  Indians  were  commanded  by  Tecumseh;  and  the 
combined  forces  amounted  to  about  seven  hundred  and 
fifty  men. 

[112]  Colonel  Miller,  although  he  proceeded  with  cau- 
tion, experienced  a  sudden  attack.  Perhaps  there  never 
was  one  more  furious;  or  the  resistance  to  which  evinced 
in  a  greater  degree  the  characteristic  union  and  firmness 
of  disciplined  troops. 

64  Brownstown  is  situated  on  the  Huron  River,  twenty-five  miles  south  of 
Detroit;  Magagua  (Monguagon)  is  about  twenty  miles  south  of  Detroit.  The 
engagement  at  the  former  place  occurred  August  5;  at  the  latter,  August  9, 
1812. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  213 

On  the  right  of  the  Americans  there  was  a  dark  wood, 
and  on  their  left  was  a  small  prairie  across  which  was  an 
eminence  covered  with  trees  and  bushes.  In  the  wood, 
on  the  right,  the  Indians  lay  in  ambush,  with  a  breast- 
work between  them  and  the  Americans.  On  the  small 
height,  on  the  left,  there  was  stationed  a  detachment  of 
Indians;  and  the  British  regulars  occupied  other  favour- 
able positions.  The  onset  was  tremendous.  The  veteran 
Miller  immediately  extended  his  lines,  to  avoid  being  out- 
flanked, ordered  a  detachment  to  dislodge  the  enemy  on 
his  left,  opened  a  brisk  fire  upon  the  main  body  of  the 
assailants,  and  then  drove  them  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet. 
At  the  same  time,  the  enemy  was  driven  from  the  height 
in  a  most  prompt  and  gallant  manner.  The  British  reg- 
ulars retreated ;  but  the  Indians  still  obstinately  contended 
from  behind  the  scattering  trees.  The  regulars,  in  the 
mean  time,  were  rallied;  and  the  battle  became  more 
general,  and  more  equally  maintained.  At  this  eventful 
moment,  the  mighty,  yet  cheering  voice  of  the  intrepid 
Miller,  like  the  roar  of  a  torrent  echoing  from  a  thousand 
hills,  inspired  with  a  new  impulse  his  faithful, —  generous 
troops. —  In  one  moment  the  victory  was  ours.  Early  in 
the  engagement,  the  veteran  Colonel  was,  accidentally, 
thrown  from  his  horse ;  and  some  suppose,  that  they  can 
still  see  upon  the  ground  the  impression  of  his  gigantic 
form. 

In  examining  this  interesting  battle-ground,  I  found, 
by  the  numerous  scars  on  the  trees  under  which  the  Amer- 
icans fought,  that  the  enemy  made  a  great  many  random 
shot.  It  is  to  be  presumed,  [113]  that  soldiers  generally 
fire  too  high,  especially  when  the  object  is  at  a  considerable 
distance;  not  considering  that  a  ball,  in  its  passage,  de- 
scribes a  circular  line.  Every  soldier  should  be  acquainted 
with  the  most  simple  principles  of  enginery;  and  he  should 


214  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

practice  upon  those  principles,  for  the  purpose  of  ascer- 
taining their  relative  influence  upon  the  character  of  his 
piece.  General  Wayne  seemed  to  be  aware  that  soldiers 
are  apt  to  fire  too  high.  He  was  often  heard  to  say  to  his 
troops,  in  battle: — "Shin  them  my  brave  boys! — shin 
them!" 

In  passing  the  battle-grounds  all  was  silence.  Not  a 
leaf  was  in  motion.  The  misty  air  seemed  conscious  that 
here  was  the  place  of  graves;  and  no  sound  was  heard 
but  the  footsteps  of  the  stranger  who  had  come  to  rejoice 
and  to  mourn. 

Before  leaving  these  interesting,  yet  melancholy  scenes, 
I  may  add,  that  where  one  is  acquainted  with  the  particu- 
lars of  an  engagement,  he  can  view,  with  much  gratifica- 
tion, the  positions  which  the  parties  occupied,  and  draw, 
from  their  influences  upon  the  result,  important  lessons 
equal  to  those  of  actual  experience. 

From  the  River  Raisin  to  Brownstown  the  land  is  highly 
valuable,  and  presents  some  fine  scites  for  farms.  The 
soil  is  rugged  and  rich,  the  timber  upon  it  lofty  and  ele- 
gant, and  the  streams  remarkably  well  calculated  for  man- 
ufacturing purposes.  In  viewing  these  fine  tracts  I  could 
not  but  pity  those  poor  fellows  whom  I  have  often  seen 
settled  upon  a  barren  and  rocky  soil,  scarcely  fit  for  the 
pasturage  of  sheep.  Unacquainted  with  the  quality  of 
land,  and  yet  devoted  to  the  employment  of  agriculture, 
they  still  cleave  to  their  possessions,  which  instead  of  en- 
riching them,  will  break  down  their  constitutions  with 
labour,  and  keep  them  poor  all  then*  days.  Such  persons, 
however,  need  not  leave  the  land  of  [114]  their  birth  and 
the  society  of  their  friends.  Let  them  still  employ  their 
industry  at  home;  not  upon  a  less  thankless  soil. 

From  Brownstown  to  Detroit  the  land  is  diversified  with 
small  meadows  and  fertile  eminences.  Here  there  is  a 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  215 

beautiful  view  of  the  river  Detroit.  The  rises  of  land  con- 
sist of  a  rich  black  mould,  upon  a  limestone  bottom.  At 
the  foot  of  them  there  are  fine  springs,  and  on  their  sum- 
mits a  good  growth  of  hard  wood. 

The  day  after  leaving  Magagua  I  arrived  at  Detroit,  to 
which  place  I  had  long  looked  for  that  rest  and  those  com- 
forts, which  would  enable  me  to  make  new  exertions.  In 
marching  to  this  place  I  was  constantly  employed,  with 
the  exception  of  one  day,  for  seven  weeks.  The  distance 
from  New-Hampshire  to  Detroit,  by  the  rout  which  I  took, 
is  about  one  thousand  miles.  Ere  I  reached  the  city  my 
clothes  became  much  torn,  and  in  going  through  the 
bushes  my  eyes  were  greatly  injured.  Within  one  hun- 
dred miles  east  of  Detroit,  I  crossed  upwards  of  thirty 
rivers  and  creeks. 

The  prospect  in  approaching  this  place  is  picturesque 
and  interesting.  At  the  distance  of  several  miles,  the 
traveller,  in  moving  along  the  western  bank  of  the  river, 
sees  several  large  buildings,  and  several  wind-mills  in  the 
town  of  Sandwich.  This  place  is  very  considerable,  and 
is  situated  on  the  Canada  side  of  the  river,  opposite  De- 
troit. The  general  appearance  of  this  part  of  the  country 
is  truly  European. 

The  city  of  Detroit  is  very  beautifully  situated.'8  Its 
principal  street  and  buildings  are  upon  a  bend  of  the  river, 
of  a  mile  or  two  in  length,  and  they  occupy  the  whole  ex- 
tent of  it.  The  bend  forms  a  semi-circle,  and  the  banks 
of  it  are  gently  sloping.  The  houses  and  stores  are  near 
the  summit  of  the  bank,  [115]  and  the  slopes  form  pleasant 
grounds  for  gardening.  The  streets  intersect  each  other 
at  right  angles,  and  the  situation  is  calculated  for  a  large 
and  elegant  city.  The  Fort  and  Cantonment  lie  about 

**  For  the  early  history  of  Detroit,  see  Croghan's  Journals,  volume  i  of  our 
series,  note  18. —  ED. 


2 1 6  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

forty  rods  west  of  the  main  street.  From  this  street  a 
spacious  gate  opens  to  them,  and  at  a  little  distance  from 
it,  the  road  forks  and  leads  to  them  respectively.  The 
contrast  between  the  numerous  white  buildings  in  both  of 
these  places,  and  the  green  grass  contiguous  to  and  around 
them  is  very  pleasant.  A  stranger,  in  visiting  the  Fort 
and  Cantonment,  is  agreeably  impressed  with  the  neat- 
ness of  their  appearance,  and  with  the  order  and  discipline 
which  are  maintained  there  among  the  troops.  The 
apartments  of  the  officers  too  present  a  studious  and  scien- 
tific aspect;  and  seem  to  warrant  the  idea,  that  in  the 
officers  of  our  army  are  united  the  character  of  the  well 
informed  gentleman,  and  intrepid  soldier.  This  military 
post  is  a  very  important  and  responsible  station ;  and  the 
government  has  made  for  it  a  very  judicious  selection  of 
officers.  Several  of  these  officers  are  of  the  veteran  4th 
regiment;  and  others  of  them  have  seen  the  darkened  sky 
red-hot  with  battle. 

On  the  evening  of  my  arrival  at  Detroit,  I  addressed  the 
following  note  to  Governor  Cass:  "A  gentleman  from 
New-Hampshire  wishes  for  the  privilege  of  introducing 
himself  to  Governor  Cass.  He  is  upon  a  pedestrious  tour, 
and  therefore  trusts,  that  the  roughness  of  his  garb  will  not 
preclude  him  from  the  honour  of  an  interview.  March 
2oth,  1818. "  The  Governor  replied  with  his  compliments 
and  with  the  request  that  I  would  call  upon  him  the  next 
morning  at  9  o'clock.  At  the  time  appointed  I  waited 
upon  him,  and  was  received  with  that  unaffected  friend- 
liness and  manner,  which  so  well  comports  with  the  insti- 
tutions of  the  country. 

[116]  Governor  Cass,66  who  is  the  Supreme  Executive 
magistrate  of  the  Michigan  Territory,  resides  just  below 

81  Lewis  Cass  was  governor  of  Michigan  from  1814  to  1831. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  217 

the  Cantonment;  and  General  Macomb'7  occupies  an 
elegant  brick  house,  erected  by  General  Hull,  situated  at 
the  upper  end  of  the  street.  The  former  is  remarkably 
well  calculated  for  the  Governor  of  a  frontier  Territory: 
in  him  are  united  the  civilian  and  the  warrior.  Governor 
Cass  lives  in  an  unostentatious  style;  his  aspect  evinces 
benevolence;  his  disposition  is  social,  and  his  manners  are 
plain. 

The  style  in  which  General  Macomb  lives  is  at  once  ele- 
gant and  becoming.  His  military  reputation  is  well 
known;  and  in  private  life  he  is  conspicuous  for  affabil- 
ity, politeness  and  attention  to  strangers. 

Soon  after  entering  Detroit,  I  met  with  a  trifling  incident, 
which  interested  me  by  exciting  my  curiosity.  Among  a 
crowd  of  gazers  here,  I  saw  a  face  which  I  remembered  to 
have  known  a  great  while  before;  but  where,  I  could  not 
tell.  How  astonishingly  impressive  is  the  expression  of 
the  human  countenance !  The  next  day  the  man  passed 
the  Hotel  where  I  sojourned,  and  I  took  the  liberty  to  in- 
vite him  in.  Twenty  years  had  elapsed  since  I  had  last 
seen  him;  and  then  we  were  mere  children,  pronouncing 
in  the  same  class  our  A,  B,  C. 

A  considerable  part  of  the  population  of  Detroit  are 
French;  but  the  number  of  Americans  there,  is  daily  in- 
creasing, and  will  soon  become  very  numerous.  The  Gov- 
ernment warehouse  here  is  very  large,  and  the  Govern- 
ment wharf  is  long  and  commodious.  There  are  several 
other  wharves  at  Detroit,  and  the  vessels  lying  at  them 

•7  Alexander  Macomb  (1782-1841)  was  a  lieutenant-colonel  in  the  regular 
army  at  the  outbreak  of  the  War  of  1812-15.  Having  served  on  the  Niagara 
frontier  during  1813,  he  commanded  the  regular  troops  at  the  battle  of  Platts- 
burg  (September,  1814),  and  for  his  bravery  was  made  a  major-general  and  re- 
ceived a  gold  medal  from  Congress.  Upon  the  death  of  General  Brown  in 
1828,  he  was  appointed  commander-in-chief  of  the  army. —  ED. 


2 1 8  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

make  a  pleasant  appearance.  From  the  lower  part  of  the 
town  the  view,  up  the  river,  is  remarkably  fine.  Here  one 
may  see,  for  the  distance  of  four  miles,  a  beautiful  ex- 
panse of  water,  several  islands  almost  lost  to  vision,  and 
near  [117]  them,  on  a  point  of  land,  several  large  wind- 
mills. The  river  itself  yields  to  none  in  point  of  utility 
and  beauty.  Opposite  to  Detroit  it  is  about  one  mile  wide, 
and  its  current  moves  about  three  miles  an  hour.  The 
whole  length  of  the  river  is  thirty  miles;  and  from  Detroit 
to  Lake  St.  Clair  the  distance  is  nine  miles. 

In  Detroit  there  is  much  good  society;  and  hospitality 
is  a  conspicuous  trait  in  the  character  of  the  people.  The 
Lyceum  established  here  is  patronized  by  the  principal 
men  in  the  place;  and  those  who  take  a  part  in  its  discus- 
sions display  extensive  information,  much  correct  reason- 
ing, and  no  little  eloquence.  There  is  also  an  Academy 
in  this  place;  and  it  is  superintended  by  the  learned  Mr. 
Monteith.  In  time,  this  city  will  become  conspicuous  for 
its  literature,  and  for  the  propriety  of  its  customs  and 
manners.  In  relation  to  politics,  it  will  take,  in  some  re- 
spects, a  new  course ;  and  in  this  particular  be  an  example 
worthy  of  imitation.  In  point  too  of  municipal  regulation 
and  statutary  rule,  the  Michigan  Territory  will  be  emi- 
nently correct.  There  is  no  state  or  territory  in  the  union, 
which  merits  so  much  attention  on  the  part  of  the  General 
Government  as  the  Michigan  Territory.  In  the  vicinity  of 
Detroit  there  is,  for  the  distance  of  thirty  miles,  only  the 
width  of  the  river  of  this  name  between  the  United  States 
and  Upper  Canada;  and  above  Lake  St.  Clair,  there  is 
between  the  two  countries  only  the  width  of  the  river  St. 
Clair  for  the  distance  of  forty  miles.  It  will  be  of  great 
consequence,  in  a  national  point  of  view,  to  have  the  sys- 
tems of  education,  laws,  customs,  and  manners,  of  the 
Territory  such  as  to  outweigh  the  counter  influence  of 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  219 

those  of  the  British  in  its  neighbourhood.  As  to  the  popu- 
lation of  this  territory,  the  General  Government  will  do 
well  to  afford  every  facility  and  encouragement  to  [118]  its 
increase.  By  increasing  the  strength  of  our  frontier  set- 
tlements, we  shall  lessen  the  influence  of  the  British  Gov- 
ernment over  the  savages  of  the  west,  and  be  able  to  meet 
their  incursions  more  promptly,  and  with  greater  effect. 

At  Detroit  there  is  a  theatre;  and  it  is  under  the  exclu- 
sive management  of  the  military  officers  stationed  there. 
These  gentlemen,  actuated  by  liberal  and  polished  views, 
have  erected  a  stage  for  the  gratuitous  instruction  and 
amusement  of  the  public.  The  scenery  of  the  stage  is  ex- 
ecuted with  an  appropriate  taste,  the  dramatic  pieces  are 
selected  with  judgment  and  delicacy,  and  the  perform- 
ances are  quite  equal  to  any  in  the  country.  Indeed  the 
officers  of  our  army,  at  Detroit,  possess  much  genius  and 
erudition;  and  the  correctness  of  their  conduct,  in  point 
of  morals  and  manners,  entitle  them  to  much  praise. 

The  state  of  agriculture  in  the  Michigan  Territory  is  far 
from  flourishing.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Detroit  it 
is  deplorable.  The  French  have  no  ambition  to  excel  in 
this  honourable  and  profitable  calling.  There  is  here, 
however,  every  thing  to  encourage  an  active  husbandman. 
The  soil  is  fertile  and  the  climate  perfectly  congenial  to  the 
growth  of  New-England  productions.  A  yankee  farmer, 
carrying  with  him  to  this  place  his  knowledge  of  agri- 
culture, and  his  industry,  might  soon  acquire  a  very  hand- 
some estate.  The  market  for  country  produce  in  Detroit 
is  always  high ;  and  large  sums  of  money  are  annually  paid 
there  for  provisions,  which  are  transported  across  the  lake 
from  the  upper  parts  of  the  states  of  New- York,  Pennsyl- 
vania, and  Ohio. 

The  inhabitants  of  Detroit,  wishing  to  keep  their  money 
in  circulation  among  themselves,  and  also  wishing  to  see 


220  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

their  own  agriculture  improving,  [119]  would  afford  great 
encouragement  to  farmers  who  should  settle  in  their  vicin- 
ity. Here  too  all  mechanical  trades  would  be  promptly 
patronized.  Various  articles  of  American  manufacture 
are  sent  to  this  place  from  the  city  of  New- York,  and  meet 
here  a  market  affording  great  profits.  Joiners,  brick  mak- 
ers, shoe  makers,  and  almost  all  other  mechanics  would 
here  find  ample  patronage.  Day  labourers  too,  would  ob- 
tain here  ready  employment  and  good  wages.  I  may  add, 
that  lumber  and  wood  are  remarkably  high  in  this  city; 
and  that  wood  sellers  and  lumber  dealers  might  here  real- 
ize from  these  occupations  very  handsome  profits. 

I  deem  it  my  duty  to  express  a  high  opinion  of  the  Mich- 
igan Territory,  because  facts  warrant  such  a  course,  and  it 
is  important  that  those  of  my  fellow  citizens,  who  may  be 
disposed  to  emigrate  to  the  west,  should  possess  every  in- 
formation upon  the  subject.  No  one  need  suppose  my 
declarations  to  be  those  of  a  land  speculator.  I  have  not 
the  most  remote  relation  to  such  business,  and  never 
expect  to  have. 

In  travelling  more  than  four  thousand  miles,  in  the 
western  parts  of  the  United  States,  I  met  no  tract  of  coun- 
try which,  upon  the  whole,  impressed  my  mind  so  favour- 
ably as  the  Michigan  Territory.  Erroneous  ideas  have 
heretofore  been  entertained  respecting  this  territory.  In- 
deed it  has,  until  lately,  been  viewed  as  scarcely  within  the 
jurisdiction  of  the  United  States.  Even  some  late  geog- 
raphers seem  to  have  collected  no  other  information  re- 
specting it,  than  what  had  been  written  by  their  ancient 
predecessors.  Some  of  this  information,  especially  as  it 
respects  Detroit,  does  not  apply  to  the  present  times. 

The  soil  of  this  territory  is  generally  fertile,  and  a  con- 
siderable proportion  of  it  is  very  rich.  Its  [120]  climate 
is  delightful;  and  its  situation  novel  and  interesting.  As 


1818]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  221 

to  the  former,  it  possesses  a  good  medium  between  our 
extreme  northern  and  southern  latitudes;  and  with  re- 
spect to  the  latter  it  is  almost  encircled  by  the  Lakes  Erie, 
St.  Clair,  Huron,  and  Michigan.  New-England  fruits 
may  here  be  produced  in  great  perfection;  and  the  terri- 
tory is  capable  of  being  rendered  a  great  cider  country. 
In  point  of  health  too,  this  territory  yields  to  no  part  of 
North  America.  There  is  no  place  in  the  world  more 
healthy  than  the  city  of  Detroit.  Consumptions  are  never 
known  there. 

The  situation  of  this  city,  although  level,  is  very  com- 
manding. On  the  Ohio  the  view  of  the  traveller  is  con- 
fined; but  here  one  appears  lifted  above  the  adjacent 
country,  and  may  survey  it  as  from  an  eminence. 

The  Michigan  Territory  is  generally  level,  but  in  many 
places  gently  diversified.  The  growth  of  timber  here  is 
principally  black  walnut,  sugar  maple,  elm,  sycamore,  and 
pine.  There  is  not,  however,  an  abundance  of  the  latter. 
The  streams  within  this  territory  are  very  numerous,  and 
well  calculated  for  manufacturies  of  every  kind;  and  the 
fisheries  here  are  exceedingly  valuable.  Besides  vast 
quantities  of  many  other  kinds  of  fish,  caught  in  the  waters 
within  and  contiguous  to  this  territory,  during  the  spring 
and  summer  season,  thousands  of  barrels  of  white  fish 
are  taken  here  in  the  fall,  and  prepared  for  the  home  and 
foreign  markets."  This  species  of  fish  is  of  the  size,  and 
appearance  of  the  largest  shad;  but  are  far  more  valuable. 
Wild  fowl  of  all  kinds  greatly  abound  here. 

The  trade  of  the  Michigan  Territory  is  already  very  con- 
siderable, and  it  is  rapidly  increasing.  Besides  the  busi- 
ness transacted  between  different  parts  of  the  territory  it- 
self, and  with  the  Indian  [121]  tribes  in  the  neighbourhood, 

18  Either  the  common  whitefish  (Coregonus  clupeiformis)  or  the  blue  fins 
(Coregonus  nigripinnis) . —  ED. 


222  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  & 

it  transacts  considerable  business  with  the  upper  parts  of 
the  state  of  New- York,  Pennsylvania,  and  Ohio;  and  also 
with  the  inhabitants  of  Upper  Canada.  Its  shipping  is 
employed  on  Lake  Erie,  Huron,  and  Michigan,  either 
in  the  fisheries,  in  freighting,  or  in  trading  along  the  coast. 
In  the  summer  season  there  is  in  Detroit  a  considerable 
concourse  of  strangers,  from  the  states  by  the  way  of 
Buffalo,  who  furnish  considerable  sums  as  passage  money 
to  the  ship  owners  on  Lake  Erie;  and  in  the  spring  of  the 
year  the  neighbouring  Indians  resort  thither  to  dispose  of 
theu:  furs,  and  to  purchase  guns,  ammunition,  blankets, 
and  other  articles. 

Detroit  is  a  central  situation  for  the  fur  trade  in  the 
North- West;"  and  there  is  a  considerable  commercial 
connexion  between  this  place  and  Chicago  and  Green 
Bay. 

The  establishment  of  a  weighty  fur  company  at  Detroit, 
would  result  in  much  individual  and  public  advantage. 
The  English,  by  their  extensive  fur  trade  in  the  north  and 
west,  acquire  an  influence  among  the  Indians,  which  simi- 
lar establishments  on  our  part  would  completely  counter- 
act. This  influence  renders  the  Indians  hostile  towards 
us,  and  in  the  event  of  a  war  between  this  country  and 
Great  Britain,  would  blend  the  prejudices  of  the  English- 
man with  the  ferocity  of  the  savage. 

The  English  derive  immense  profits  from  the  North 
American  fur  trade.  The  North  West  company  employ 
in  this  business,  exclusive  of  savages,  upwards  of  fifteen 
hundred  men.  The  articles  for  the  Indian  market  are 
cheap,  and  of  course  the  requisite  capital  for  this  business 
is  small. 

It  was  my  intention,  after  spending  a  few  days  at  De- 

0  For  an  account  of  the  North  West  Company,  consult  the  preface  to  Long's 
Voyages,  volume  ii  of  our  series,  p.  16. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  223 

troit,  to  pursue  my  tour  through  the  wilderness,  between 
the  Lakes  Huron  and  Michigan,  as  far  as  [122]  Michili- 
macinac ;  from  thence  across  the  North- West  Territory  to 
the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  and  then  to  trace  the  Mississippi 
to  New-Orleans.  Whilst  at  Detroit,  however,  I  concluded 
to  change,  in  some  measure,  my  course. 

There  was  evidence  of  a  hostile  disposition  on  the  part 
of  the  Indians  situated  on  my  proposed  route;  the  season 
of  the  year  rendered  travelling  in  this  direction  almost  im- 
practicable; and  my  views  and  business  would  not  per- 
mit the  delay  which  this  last  mentioned  circumstance 
would  occasion. 

Upon  leaving  Detroit  I  crossed  Lake  Erie  in  a  small 
vessel,  and  arriving  at  Presque  Isle,  pursued  my  course  to 
New-Orleans,  taking  in  my  way  all  the  states  and  terri- 
tories of  the  west. 

It  may  not  be  amiss,  before  I  notice  my  trip  across  the 
Lake,  to  communicate  some  facts  and  reflections  respect- 
ing the  country  above  Detroit,  many  of  which  facts  I  was 
enabled  to  obtain  by  my  residence  there.  Ere  I  speak 
upon  this  subject,  however,  I  will,  for  a  moment,  prolong 
my  stay  at  this  city. 

The  sufferings  of  this  place  during  the  late  war,  are 
scarcely  describable.  The  apprehension  of  death  is  far 
more  terrible  than  actual  dissolution.  After  the  capitula- 
tion of  General  Hull,  Detroit  was  thronged  by  Indians,  and 
they  were  continually  making  the  most  aggravating  requi- 
sitions. These  they  enforced  by  savage  threats.  There 
was  not  a  moment  of  domestic  peace  for  any  one.  The 
inhabitants  did  not  dare  to  fasten  their  doors:  for  if  they 
did  the  Indians  would  cut  them  to  pieces  with  their  toma- 
hawks, and  revenge  the  opposition  upon  the  inmates  of 
the  house.  When  families  were  about  to  sit  down  to  their 
tables,  the  Indians  would  come  in,  drive  every  one  out  of 


224  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

the  room,  and  feast  themselves.  Their  constant  demand, 
at  every  dwelling,  was  for  [123]  whiskey;  and  to  grant  or 
refuse  it  was  attended  with  great  danger.  If  it  were 
granted,  intoxication  and  consequent  bloodshed  would  be 
the  effects;  and  upon  a  refusal,  the  Indians  would  present 
their  long  knives  and  threaten  immediate  death. 

A  lady,  who  resided  at  Detroit  whilst  it  was  in  posses- 
sion of  the  British,  and  who  is  remarkable  for  her  good 
sense  and  intrepidity,  related  to  me  the  above  and  many 
other  facts  relative  to  this  trying  state  of  things.  She  said, 
that  upon  one  occasion  several  Indians  came  to  her  house, 
and  upon  their  approach  it  was  thought  advisable  for  her 
husband  to  conceal  himself  in  the  garret.  The  Indians 
demanded  whiskey  of  her;  and  upon  being  told  that  there 
was  none  in  the  house,  they  presented  several  knives  to 
her  breast,  and  in  their  rude  English  called  her  a  liar.  Al- 
though in  momentary  expectation  of  death,  she  still  denied 
her  having  whiskey.  Her  husband,  hearing  the  bustle  be- 
low came  down,  and  with  the  assistance  of  two  or  three 
others,  who  accidentally  came  that  way,  drave  the  Indians 
from  the  house.  Immediate  revenge  was  anticipated.  It 
was  the  practice  of  the  Indians,  particularly  at  this  time, 
to  resent  the  smallest  opposition.  Supported  by  their 
civilized  patrons,  they  felt  their  consequence;  and  their 
pride  was  as  easily  touched  as  that  of  a  savageized  English- 
man. The  house  of  the  lady  was  soon  surrounded,  and 
day  after  day  the  Indians  came  to  search  for  her  husband ; 
but  not  being  able  to  find  him,  the  object  was,  apparently, 
abandoned. 

Immediately  after  the  massacre  at  the  River  Raisin,  the 
inhabitants  of  Detroit  were  called  upon  to  witness  a 
heart-rending  scene.  The  Indians  from  this  field  of  car- 
nage were  continually  arriving  at  the  city,  and  passing 
through  its  streets,  with  poles  laden  with  reeking  scalps. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  225 

I  am  here  disposed  to  make  a  few  remarks  relative  [124] 
to  the  late  war.  I  know  that  in  so  doing  I  shall  incur  cen- 
sure; but  I  write  for  those  who  are  too  noble  to  conceal 
their  defeats,  and  too  modest  to  proclaim  their  victories. 
The  genius,  and  energy,  and  resources  of  the  United  States 
should  have  accomplished  every  thing. 

I  confess  that  I  did  not  rejoice  at  the  beams  of  peace. 
Premature  peace  does  not  promote  the  cause  of  humanity. 
We  declared  war  for  the  defence  of  essential  rights,  which 
had,  in  the  wantonness  of  power,  been  repeatedly  invaded. 
In  this  war  we  sought  indemnity  for  the  past,  and  security 
for  the  future; — that  security  which  punishment  extorts 
from  injustice : —  that  security  which  the  fine  and  the  lash 
guarantees  to  honest  and  peaceable  communities.  Did 
we  effect  our  object  ? —  Oh  no !  Whatever  may  have  been 
our  victories,  our  defeats  were  disgraceful.  The  admin- 
istrators of  the  government  were  deficient  in  information, 
in  system,  and  in  energy.  They  sought  an  effect  without 
an  adequate  cause;  and  the  people  sacrificed  the  glory  of 
the  country  to  the  pride  of  political  competition.  As  to 
the  opposition,  they  pursued  false  morals  until  they  lost 
sight  of  true  patriotism. 

There  was  virtue  enough  in  the  community;  but  afflic- 
tion was  necessary  to  raise  it  from  the  ruins  of  thoughtless 
and  passionate  rivalry.  We  were  upon  the  eve  of  humil- 
iation,—-  the  eve  of  new,  and  omnipotent  moral  impulse, 
when  peace  unexpectedly  presented  herself.  Not  the  peace 
which  the  victor  magnanimously  gives  to  the  humbled  foe, 
but  that  peace  which  misguided  apprehension  yields  to 
the  dark  calculations  of  policy.  The  British  Lion  ceased 
to  roar,  and  instead  of  contending  until  we  had  pared  his 
princely  paws,  we  were  ready  to  forgive  and  to  embrace 
him.  Our  own  Eagle  despised  us;  and  with  a  fearless, 
anxious  eye,  and  ruffled  plume,  [125]  retired  to  the  elevated 


226  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

and  gloomy  promontory  of  her  glory  and  her  disappoint- 
ment. 

It  is  the  general  opinion  at  Detroit,  that  Hull  was 
prompted  to  surrender  the  place,  not  by  bribery,  but  by 
cowardice.  Could  he  have  seen  the  dreadful  and  humiliat- 
ing consequences  which  actually  arose  from  this  base 
and  unpardonable  step,  the  suggestions  of  conscience 
would  have  controuled  his  apprehensions,  and  his  brave 
men  would  not  have  been  deprived  of  their  fame.  Inde- 
scribable must  be  the  feelings  of  patriotism  and  courage, 
when  official  cowardice  yields  them  to  a  foe,  whom  their 
hearts  have  already  conquered.  The  brave  man  regards 
his  friends  and  his  country  a  thousand  times  more  than 
himself;  and  he  would  court  a  hundred  deaths  rather  than 
wound  then-  feelings,  or  forfeit  their  love.  In  the  hour  of 
danger,  when  the  national  flag  is  assailed,  his  soul  tells 
him  that  his  countrymen  will  hear  of  this,  and  he  dedicates 
himself  to  battle,  to  glory,  and  to  death!  But  I  am  sen- 
sible that  there  is  a  higher  principle :  the  man  who  fears  no 
evil  so  much  as  self-reproach,  will  always  do  his  duty. 

Immediately  upon  the  capitulation  of  Hull,  a  Yankee 
soldier  of  the  4th  regiment  thought  it  high  time  for  him 
to  take  care  of  himself;  and  he  immediately  devised  a  plan 
by  which  he  hoped  to  outwit  General  Brock.  The  soldier 
secretly  left  the  fort,  went  to  a  barber  and  had  his  hair 
and  whiskers  closely  shaved;  and  then  obtained  from  a 
tailor  such  garments  as  were  most  fashionable  for  traders. 
After  remaining  about  the  city  for  a  few  days,  this  citizen- 
soldier  applied  to  the  British  General  for  the  necessary 
passes,  stating  that  he  had  come  to  Detroit  for  the  pur- 
poses of  trade,  &c.  The  General  kindly  referred  him  to 
the  proper  officer,  his  passes  were  promptly  prepared,  and 
he  returned  to  his  friends. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  227 

[126]  I  will  now  commence  my  proposed  excursion 
above  Detroit. 

The  strait  called  the  river  Detroit  becomes  enlarged  just 
above  Hog  Island,70  and  forms  Lake  St.  Clair.  This  lake 
is  about  twenty-five  miles  in  length.  Its  depth  is  incon- 
siderable. The  principal  islands  in  it  are  Harsen's,  Hay, 
Peach,  and  Thompson's.  Formerly  there  were  several 
Indian  tribes  situated  on  the  western  side  of  this  Lake; 
and  the  Ontaonais  71  occupied  the  other  side:  but  the 
Iroquois,  a  fierce,  bloody,  and  restless  tribe,  have  long 
since  dispossessed  them. 

The  River  St.  Clair,  between  the  lake  of  this  name  and 
Lake  Huron,  receives  the  waters  of  the  three  vast  Lakes 
beyond  it.  Thisriver  is  about  forty  miles  long.  The  bed 
of  the  river  is  strait,  contains  many  islands,  and  its  banks 
are  covered  with  lofty  trees.  At  the  head  of  this  river  is 
Fort  St.  Clair.72 

The  river  Thames  enters  Lake  St.  Clair  on  the  Canada 
side.  On  this  river  is  situated  the  Moravian  village, 
where  General  Harrison  routed  the  British  and  Indians 
under  Proctor  and  Tecumseh.78  On  this  river  too  is 


70  Hog  Island,  about  three  miles  above  Detroit,  was  so  named  by  the  French 
in  the  early  years  of  discovery,  because  of  the  number  of  wild  swine  found 
thereon.     Near  this  island  occurred  the  defeat  of  the  Fox  Indians  in  1712. 
See  Wisconsin  Historical  Collections,  xvi,  p.  283.     This  island  was  purchased 
by  William,  father  of  General  Macomb,  in  1786. —  ED. 

71  For  the  Ottawa  Indians,  see  Croghan's  Journals,  volume  i  of  our  series, 
note  37. —  ED. 

n  This  unimportant  post  was  established  (1765)  and  commanded  by  Patrick 
Sinclair,  a  British  army  officer,  who  also  purchased  a  large  tract  of  land  along 
the  river.  Both  fort  and  river  were  for  a  long  time  called  Sinclair,  and  as  late 
as  1807  are  so  given  in  an  Indian  treaty  drawn  up  by  Governor  Hull.  See  State 
Papers,  Indian  Affairs,  i,  p.  747. —  ED. 

78  The  battle  of  the'Thames,  in  which  Proctor  was  put  to  flight  and  Tecum- 
seh killed,  was  fought  two  miles  west  of  Moraviantown,  or  about  sixty-five 
miles  northeast  of  Detroit. —  ED. 


228  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

General  Simcoe's  paper  town  called  London.74  Along  the 
banks  of  the  Lake  and  river  St.  Clair,  the  country, 
generally,  is  fertile,  and  pleasingly  diversified.  The  sugar 
maple  tree  abounds  here,  and  here  too  are  elegant  forests 
of  pine  timber  well  calculated  for  the  common  purposes 
of  building,  and  also  for  spars.  I  may  add,  that  on  the 
banks  of  the  Thames  are  villages  of  the  Delawares  and 
Chippewas.75  The  principal  townships  of  the  Six  Nations 
are  situated  near  the  greatest  source  of  this  river. 

Before  I  leave  Lake  St.  Clair,  I  must  say  a  word  re- 
specting the  old  veteran  of  this  name.76  It  is  indeed  too 
late  to  do  him  justice: — he  no  longer  wants  [127]  the 
meat  which  perisheth.  But  we  may  spread  laurels  upon 
his  tomb;  and  soothe  the  spirit,  which,  perhaps,  even  now 
hovers  over  its  country,  and  seeks  the  fame  which  his 
merit  achieved.  The  mass  of  mankind  judge  of  plans, 
and  of  their  execution,  not  by  their  abstract  wisdom,  or 
energy,  but  by  their  results.  Many  a  man,  however, 
gains  a  victory  by  a  blunder,  and  experiences  defeat 
through  the  instrumentality  of  his  wisdom.  Accident 
often  settles  the  question;  and  we  may  presume,  that 
sometimes  it  is  emphatically  the  will  of  Heaven,  that  the 
strongest  and  wisest  party  should  be  overcome. 
.  General  St.  Clair  devoted  his  whole  life  to  the  art  of 

74  In  1793  Governor  Simcoe  made  a  trip  to  Detroit,  and  selected  the  present 
site  of  London  for  the  capital  of  Upper  Canada.  However,  the  surrender  of 
Detroit  (1796),  in  accordance  with  Jay's  Treaty,  rendered  such  a  plan  im- 
practicable, and  York  was  chosen  capital  instead.  London,  situated  on  the 
Thames  one  hundred  and  ten  miles  northeast  of  Detroit,  was  laid  out  in  1826 
and  incorporated  in  1840. —  ED. 

78  For  the  Delaware  and  Chippewa  Indians,  see  Post's  Journals,  volume  i  of 
our  series,  note  57;  Long's  Voyages,  volume  ii  of  our  series,  note  42. —  ED. 

™  For  a  brief  biography  of  General  Arthur  St.  Clair,  see  F.  A.  Michaux's 
Travels,  volume  iii  of  our  series,  note  33.  Evans  would  seem  to  imply  that  the 
lake  and  river  were  named  for  this  officer.  The  name  was  assigned  by  La 
Salle's  expedition  in  1679.  See  Hennepin,  A  New  Discovery  (Thwaites's  ed., 
Chicago,  1903),  pp.  59,  108. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  229 

wax.  He  was  a  scientific  man,  a  man  of  talents,  and 
always  brave.  His  heart  was  formed  for  friendship,  and 
his  manners  were  interesting.  In  many  battles  he  pre- 
vailed. In  1791  he  was  defeated. —  So  was  Braddock,  so 
was  Harmer.  Indian  warfare  is  full  of  stratagem  and 
terror.  Troops  will  not  always  stand  this  test,  and  one 
man  cannot  effect  every  thing.  General  St.  Clair  had  to 
contend  with  even  more  formidable  enemies : —  with  mis- 
fortune,—  with  reproach, —  with  the  ingratitude  of  his 
country.  He  retired  from  an  ignorant  and  uncharitable 
world  to  his  favourite  Ridge. —  Here  he  died.  Who 
would  not  shun  the  thronged  and  splendid  path  of  the 
successful  warrior,  to  bend  over  the  lonely  grave  of  the 
venerable  St.  Clair! 

Lake  Huron  is,  excepting  Lake  Superior,  the  largest 
collection  of  fresh  water  known  to  civilized  man.  Includ- 
ing the  coasts  of  its  bays  its  circumference  is  upwards  of 
one  thousand  miles.  Its  islands  are  very  numerous. 
The  names  of  some  of  them  are  La  Crose,  Traverse,  White- 
wood,  Michilimackinac,  Prince  William,  St.  Joseph,  and 
Thunder  Bay.  The  island  of  St.  Joseph  is  upwards  of  one 
hundred  miles  in  circumference,  and  belongs  to  the  Eng- 
lish, who  have  a  company  stationed  there.77 

[128]  On  the  American  side  of  Lake  Huron,  and  be- 
tween it  and  Lake  Michigan  the  country  is  a  perfect  wil- 
derness. The  principal  Indian  tribes  situated  in  this  tract 
are  the  Ootewas  and  Chippewas.  The  bay  of  Saguina  on 
this  side  of  the  lake,  is  eighteen  miles  in  width,  and  in 
length  about  forty-five  miles.  Two  considerable  rivers 

77  The  English,  upon  their  surrender  of  Mackinac  in  1796,  thinking  the 
Americans  might  claim  St.  Joseph  Island,  hastened  to  take  possession.  A 
stockade  was  erected  and  subsequently  a  blockhouse,  but  the  place  was  not 
suited  for  a  military  station.  In  1815,  the  buildings  were  repaired  and  a  garri- 
son established;  it  was  removed,  however,  to  Drummond's  Island  the  following 
year.  For  further  information  regarding  this  island,  see  Michigan  Pioneer 
Collections,  zvi,  p.  69.—  ED. 


230  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

and  several  small  ones  pass  into  this  bay.  The  Bay  of 
Thunder  lies  near  the  Straits  of  Michilimackinac,  is  nine 
miles  in  width  and  very  shallow.  Here  terrible  storms 
of  thunder  and  lightning  are  frequently  experienced. 

On  the  Canada  side  of  Lake  Huron,  from  Lake  St. 
Clair  to  the  river  Severn,  which  passes  near  Lake  Simcoe 
and  enters  the  first  mentioned  Lake,  the  country  is  but 
little  known,  and  is  covered  with  thick  forests.  These 
forests  reach  far  beyond  the  Severn,  and  indeed  are  sepa- 
rated from  the  unexplored  wilds,  which  probably  extend 
to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  only  by  the  lakes,  rivers,  and  por- 
tages which  lie  in  the  track  of  the  British  Fur  Companies. 
The  rapids  upon  these  rivers  are  very  numerous.  The 
lakes  too,  in  this  part  of  the  country,  are  numerous,  but 
small.  The  principal  houses  of  the  British  Fur  Com- 
panies are  established  at  the  Lakes  Abitibee,  Waratouba, 
and  Tamiscamine.78  The  North- West  Fur  Company  send 
every  year  from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty 
canoes,  laden  with  merchandize,  to  their  posts  on  Lake 
Superior.  These  canoes  are  made  of  very  light  materials, 
generally  of  birch,  are  :flat  on  the  bottom,  round  on  the 
sides,  and  sharp  at  each  end.  They  carry  about  four  tons 
each,  and  are  conducted  by  about  ten  persons.  These 
boats  generally  move  from  Montreal  about  the  beginning 
of  May.  Before  the  canoes  arrive  at  their  place  of  destina- 
tion, they  are  repeatedly  unladen  and  carried,  together 
with  their  cargoes,  across  many  portages.  The  course  is 
toilsome  and  perilous;  but  the  prospect  of  [129]  gain,  and 
the  habit  of  enduring  fatigue  render  the  employment  tol- 
erable. The  principal  food  of  the  navigators  is  Indian 
meal  and  the  fat  of  bears.  In  the  trade  with  the  Indians, 
the  beaver  skin  is  the  medium  of  barter.  Two  beaver 


78  For  information  concerning  these  lakes,  see  Long's  Voyages,  volume  ii  of 
our  series,  pp.  145,  191. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  231 

skins  axe  equal  to  one  otter  skin ;  and  ten  of  the  former  are 
generally  allowed  for  a  common  gun.  Here  is  a  profit  of 
at  least  500  per  cent,  exclusive  of  all  costs. 

Michilimackinac  is  a  small  island  situated  in  the  upper 
part  of  Lake  Huron  near  the  commencement  of  the  strait 
which  connects  this  Lake  with  Lake  Michigan.79  The  as- 
pect of  the  island  is  elevated  and  irregular.  The  fort  of 
Michilimackinac  is  situated  on  this  island,  near  to  which 
are  several  stores  and  dwelling  houses.  This  is  a  very  im- 
portant post.  The  strait  and  also  the  lakes  which  it  con- 
nects abound  with  fine  fish;  the  principal  kinds  of  which 
are  herring,  white  fish,  and  trout.  The  Michilimackinac 
trout  are  bred  in  Lake  Michigan,  and  are  celebrated  for 
their  size  and  excellence;  they  sometimes  weigh  sixty  or 
seventy  pounds. 

The  strait  of  Michilimackinac  is  about  fifteen  miles  in 
length.  The  course  of  its  current,  into  Huron  or  Michi- 
gan, depends  upon  the  winds;  and  is,  therefore,  very  irreg- 
ular. At  times  it  is  exceedingly  rapid. 

Lake  Michigan  is  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in 
length.  Its  breadth  is  about  sixty  miles.  Including  the 
curvatures  of  its  bays,  its  circumference  is  about  nine  hun- 
dred miles.  There  are  a  great  many  rivers  which  rise  in 
the  peninsula  between  this  Lake  and  Lake  Huron,  and 
which  pass  into  the  latter.  That  part  of  this  peninsula 
which  lies  along  the  south-east  of  Lake  Michigan  is  but 
little  known.  The  names  of  the  principal  rivers  here  are 
Marguerite,  Grand,  Black,  and  St.  Joseph.  The  latter  is 
by  far  the  largest,  and  may  be  ascended  about  one  hun- 
dred [130]  and  fifty  miles.  On  this  river  is  situated  Fort 
Joseph.80 

7t  For  the  early  history  of  Mackinac,  see  Thwaites,  "Story  of  Mackinac," 
in  How  George  Rogers  Clark  won  the  Northwest  (Chicago,  1903). —  ED. 

80  A  brief  sketch  of  Fort  St.  Joseph  is  given  in  Croghan's  Journals,  volume 
i  of  our  series,  note  85. —  ED. 


232  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

Green  Bay,  on  the  western  border  of  Lake  Michigan  is 
about  one  hundred  miles  in  length;  and  its  breadth,  at  its 
entrance,  is  about  twenty-five  miles.  It  contains  several 
islands;  and  there  are  in  its  vicinity  tracts  of  low  and  wet 
ground.  At  the  bottom  of  the  bay  is  a  little  fall,"  beyond 
which  is  a  small  lake  called  Winnebago.  This  lake  re- 
ceives Fox  river  from  the  west.  At  the  foot  of  this  bay  too, 
is  a  fort,82  and  on  the  west  of  lake  Winnebago  is  situated 
a  village  inhabited  by  Indians  of  this  name.  On  the  Mal- 
hominis  river,  which  flows  into  Green  Bay,  is  also  situated 
an  Indian  village  containing  various  tribes.  The  princi- 
pal of  them  are  the  Lake,  Pouteoratamis,  and  Malhomi- 
nis.88  A  few  families  of  the  Nadonaicks,  whose  nation 
was  nearly  exterminated  by  the  Iroquois,  reside  here.  The 
Puans  once  occupied  the  borders  of  this  bay,  and  Puans 
bay  was  originally  its  name.  The  Puans  were  fierce,  and 
exceedingly  hostile  to  neighbouring  tribes.  At  length 
these  tribes  combined  against  them,  and  their  numbers 
were  greatly  diminished. 

Lake  Michigan  and  Green  Bay  form  a  long  point  of 

81  Evans  probably  refers  here  to  the  fall  five  miles  from  the  mouth  of  Fox 
River,  at  De  Pere  (French,  Rapides  des  percs),  so  called  because  it  was  the  site 
of  a  Jesuit  Indian  mission  established  in  1669-70.  See  Wisconsin  Historical 
Collections,  xvi.  Our  author  in  his  description  omits  mention  of  the  Lower 
Fox,  flowing  from  Lake  Winnebago  into  Green  Bay. —  ED. 

M  Fort  Howard,  named  in  honor  of  General  Benjamin  Howard,  formerly 
commander  in  the  Western  territory,  was  constructed  (1816)  a  mile  above  the 
mouth  of  Fox  River,  when  the  Americans  took  possession,  after  the  War  of 
1812-15.  A.  French  settlement,  chiefly  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  at  Green 
Bay,  had  existed  here  since  about  1745. —  ED. 

n  There  were  two  villages  of  Winnebago  (French  Puans)  on  the  lake  of  that 
name:  the  principal  one  was  situated  on  Doty's  Island,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
lake;  the  other  at  the  junction  of  the  Upper  Fox  and  the  lake,  near  the  water- 
works station  of  the  modern  Oshkosh.  This  latter  was  familiarly  known  to  the 
French  voyageurs  as  Saukiere.  The  village  on  the  Menominee  (Malhominis) 
River  was,  as  Evans  says,  a  mixed  one,  composed  principally  of  the  tribe  which 
gave  name  to  the  river.  For  these  two  tribes,  see  Long's  Voyages,  volume  ii  of 
our  series,  notes  81,  86.  For  the  Potawatomi,  see  Croghan's  Journals,  volume  i 
of  our  series,  note  84. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  233 

land  called  Cape  Townsand.  Between  this  Lake  and 
Lake  Winnebago  are  situated  the  Ootewas.  There  are 
several  rivers  on  the  west  of  the  last  mentioned  lake.  One 
of  these  is  Chicago  river,  near  to  which  is  Fort  Dearborn.84 
At  Chicago  the  United  States  have  troops  stationed. 

Would  to  Heaven,  that  I  could  forever  forget  lake  Mich- 
igan !  Her  envious  waves  have,  recently,  buried  a  youth 
of  noble  promise.  With  melancholy  pride  I  remember, 
that  whilst  at  Detroit,  I  numbered  among  my  friends  the 
lamented  Lieutenant  Eveleth.  He  possessed  a  genius 
peculiarly  calculated  for  the  engineer  department,  to  which 
he  belonged;  [131]  and  by  his  mild,  yet  manly  deportment, 
inspired,  even  in  strangers,  both  esteem  and  affection. 
His  countenance  was  martial;  but  with  this  aspect  was 
blended  a  sweetness  of  expression  which  is  rarely  wit- 
nessed.— 

"Weep  no  more,"  brother  soldiers,  "weep  no  more, 
For  Lycidas,  your  sorrow,  is  not  dead, 
Sunk  though  he  be  beneath  the  watery  floor; 
So  sinks  the  day  star  in  the  ocean  bed, 
And  yet  anon  repairs  his  drooping  head, 
And  tricks  his  beams,  and  with  new  spangled  ore 
Flames  in  the  forehead  of  the  morning  sky: 
So  Lycidas  sunk  low,  but  mounted  high, 
Through  the  dear  might  of  Him  who  walk'd  the  wave." 

The  tract  of  country  lying  between  Lake  Michigan  and 
Lake  Superior  is  rather  sterile.  The  falls  of  St.  Mary, 
situated  in  the  strait  between  Lakes  Huron  and  Superior, 
are  mere  cascades.  In  this  strait  there  are  several  islands. 

84  A  piece  of  land  six  miles  square  situated  on'the  Chicago  River/  having 
been  ceded  to  the  United  States  by  the  treaty  of  Greenville  (1795),  orders  were 
issued  by  the  War  Department  (1803)  for  the  construction  of  a  fort  on  the 
north  branch  of  the  river.  Fearing  a  combined  English  and  Indian  attack,  the 
garrison  evacuated  the  fort  August  15,  1812;  but  had  proceeded  but  a  little 
way,  when  they  were  attacked  by  the  Indians  and  the  greater  number  massacred. 
Fort  Dearborn  was  rebuilt  in  1816,  and  garrisoned  for  several  years  thereafter. 
It  was  torn  down  in  1857,  and  the  last  of  the  buildings  connected  with  it  were 
consumed  in  the  Chicago  fire  of  1871. —  ED. 


234  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

Below  the  falls  is  situated  Fort  St.  Mary.85  In  this  strait 
are  caught  fine  fish  of  many  kinds.  The  Indian  tribes, 
who  have  heretofore  occupied,  and  some  of  whom  still 
occupy  this  part  of  the  country  are  the  Nougua,  Outch- 
ebous,  Maramegs,  Achiligonans,  Amicours,  Missasangues, 
Hurons,  Nepicrenians,  Salteurs,  Ontaouais,  Amehouest 
and  Otters.88  Many  of  these  tribes  are  merged  in  others 
of  them  who  have  been  more  powerful,  or  less  unfortunate. 
The  Iroquois,  bloodthirsty  and  incursive,  scattered  all 
these  tribes,  and  nearly  exterminated  some  of  them.  There 
is,  near  the  falls  of  St.  Mary,  a  company  of  traders,  several 
houses,  a  manufactory,  mills,  &c.  But  the  vicinity  of  this 
place  is  a  perfect  wilderness. 

Lake  Superior  is  probably  the  largest  collection  of  fresh 
water  in  the  world.  It  is  but  little  known.  Its  circum- 
ference however,  has  been  ascertained  to  be  about  fifteen 
hundred  miles.  Storms  frequently  [132]  assail  it;  and  a 
swell,  like  that  of  the  ocean,  dashes  upon  the  high  and  rag- 
ged rocks  of  its  coasts.  It  contains  many  considerable 
islands  and  bays,  and  the  soil  around  it  is  far  from  being 
fertile.  Some  of  the  islands  are  from  fifty  to  one  hundred 
miles  in  length.  There  are  about  forty  rivers,  which  pour 
their  tribute  into  this  vast  lake,  some  of  which  are  of  consid- 
erable magnitude.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  grand  portage,87 
between  this  lake  and  the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  there  are 
established  several  trading  companies.  Lake  Superior  is 
well  stored  with  fish,  the  principal  kinds  of  which  are 
white  fish,  trout,  and  sturgeon.  The  latter  are  of  a  very 
superior  quality. 

M  For  a  brief  description  of  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  consult  Long's  Voyages, 
volume  ii  of  our  series,  note  38. —  ED. 

88  For  these  tribes,  many  of  whom  are  merely  clans  of  the  larger  tribes,  con- 
sult Wisconsin  Historical  Collections,  xvi,  index. —  ED. 

87  See  Franchere's  Narrative,  volume  vi  of  our  series,  note  205,  for  a  brief 
description  of  the  Grand  Portage. —  ED. 


1818]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  235 

This  lake  is  remarkable  for  the  pure  and  pellucid  ap- 
pearance of  its  water.  The  fish  in  it  can  be  seen  swim- 
ming at  a  great  depth;  and  the  vessels  upon  it  seem  to 
move  in  air.  These  effects  are,  probably,  caused,  in  part, 
by  the  peculiar  materials  of  the  bed  of  the  lake,  and  partly 
by  extraordinary  evaporation.  This  last  idea  sanctions 
the  belief,  that  in  this  part  of  the  country  the  quantity  of 
rain  is  very  great.  Some  places  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  this  Lake  are  swampy,  and  some  are  elevated  and 
fertile. 

To  the  north  and  west  of  Lake  Superior  are  several 
other  lakes,  the  principal  of  which  are  the  Lake  of  the 
Woods,  Rainy  Lake,  Bear  Lake,  and  Red  Lake.88 

Opposite  to  about  the  centre  of  Lake  Superior,  and 
on  the  river  Mississippi,  are  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony. 
This  river,  above  the  falls,  runs,  principally,  through  Bear 
and  Red  Lake;  one  branch  of  it,  however,  runs  below 
them  pretty  much  in  the  direction  of  the  Missouri  River. 
Both  below  and  above  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony  an  almost 
innumerable  number  of  rivers  pour  their  waters  into  the 
Mississippi,  some  of  which  are  several  thousand  miles  in 
length.  The  Missouri  is  the  principal  source  of  [133]  the 
Mississippi,  and  the  latter  name  ought  to  be  substituted  for 
that  of  the  former.  Between  the  cascades  of  St.  Mary, 
and  the  falls  last  mentioned,  lies  the  North-West  Terri- 
tory.89 

M  For  Lake  of  the  Woods  and  Rainy  Lake,  see  Franchere's  Narrative,  notes 
201,  204. 

The  maps  of  Evans's  period  represent  White  Bear  Lake  as  the  source  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  Red  or  Mississagan  Lake  as  the  origin  of  Red  River  of  the 
North.  The  latter  retains  its  name.  The  former  is  probably  that  now  known 
as  Leech  Lake. —  ED. 

w  Illinois  was  admitted  to  the  Union  in  1818,  and  the  part  north  of  its  present 
boundary  was  annexed  to  Michigan  Territory.  For  the  various  divisions  of 
the  Northwest  Territory,  see  Thwaites,  "Division  of  the  Northwest,"  in  How 
George  Rogers  Clark  won  the  North-west. —  ED. 


236  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

The  Indians,  in  the  north  and  west,  are  generally  fierce 
and  untameable.  They  are  so  attached  to  the  hunter 
state,  that  here  they  are  somewhat  industrious;  but  in 
every  other  occupation  they  evince  great  characteristic 
indolence.  Some  of  the  tribes  are  politic  in  all  their  pro- 
ceedings; and  husband  their  property  and  strength. 
Others,  however,  are  regardless  of  the  future,  and  look 
only  to  the  present  moment.  All  are  degenerating,  in  a 
greater  or  less  degree,  and  some,  through  the  operation 
of  ordinary  causes,  are  becoming  extinct. 

Before  I  leave  these  immense  waters  to  return  to  Detroit, 
I  may  notice,  for  a  moment,  the  vast  inland  navigation 
which  they  afford.  From  the  City  of  New- York  to  New- 
Orleans,  by  the  way  of  the  Lakes,  the  distance  is  about 
four  thousand  miles;  and  yet,  without  the  aid  of  canals, 
the  land  carriage  through  this  whole  route  is  only  about 
thirty  miles.  Such  is  the  wonderful  superiority  of  our 
country  relative  to  inland  navigation.  Owing  to  this  easy 
communication  between  the  interior  and  the  sea  board, 
and  to  the  other  advantages  of  a  residence  in  the  west,  it 
is  to  be  presumed,  that  in  the  course  of  two  centuries  the 
western  world  will  be  as  populous  as  the  Continent  of 
Europe.  Such  are  the  prospects  presented  to  the  politi- 
cian in  this  country,  and  such  the  interest  which  they  are 
calculated  to  excite  in  the  breast  of  the  American  patriot, 
that  one,  in  relation  to  this  subject,  would  wish  to  live  a 
thousand  years.  Admiration  and  concern  occupy  his 
mind.  He  wishes  to  watch  the  progress  of  events;  and  to 
apply,  from  time  to  time,  the  salutary  principles  of  rational 
government.  Aware  of  the  oscillating  nature  of  popu- 
lar [134]  sentiment,  he  fears  that  in  some  unfortunate  mo- 
ment the  waves  of  popular  feeling  will  be  agitated,  and 
that  they  will  continue  to  dash  even  after  the  cause  of  their 
vexation  shall  have  been  forgotten. —  He  realizes,  that  in 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  237 

proportion  to  the  extent  of  national  territory,  viewed  in 
connection  with  the  increase  of  population,  the  accumu- 
lation of  wealth,  the  progress  of  arts,  the  habits  of  refine- 
ment, the  corruptions  of  luxury,  and  lastly,  with  the  dregs 
of  that  spirit  of  independence,  which,  in  its  purest  essence, 
blends  charity  with  suspicion,  and  forbearance  with  en- 
ergy; but,  in  its  deterioration,  substitutes  for  these,  a  con- 
tracted jealousy,  and  a  blind  resentment: — he  realizes, 
that  in  proportion  to  the  extent  of  national  territory, 
viewed  in  relation  to  these  circumstances,  will  be  the  hor- 
rors of  political  concussion,  and  the  miseries  of  consequent 
anarchy  or  despotism.  Such  are  the  effects,  which  are  to 
be  apprehended  from  the  rapid  and  ultimate  increase  of 
the  United  States,  that  the  American  patriot,  in  view  of 
her  prosperity  and  of  his  own  dissolution,  may  well  ex- 
claim, Oh,  save  my  country ! 

It  is  with  nations  as  with  individuals;  adversity  is  equally 
requisite  for  both.  This  is  the  only  school  where  true  wis- 
dom can  be  acquired,  and  where  the  native  luxuriance  of 
the  heart  can  meet  with  due  restraints. —  May  Heaven 
guide  our  destinies  by  his  chastening  mercy ! 

I  now  suppose  myself  at  Detroit,  and  about  to  leave  it 
for  the  purpose  of  crossing  Lake  Erie.  I  speak  not  in 
vanity,  but  to  do  justice  to  the  hospitality  of  this  city:  I 
arrived  here  an  entire  stranger,  and  left  the  place  sur- 
rounded by  friends.  How  grateful  to  the  traveller,  worn 
down  by  fatigue,  is  the  hand  of  friendship  and  the  smile 
of  approbation !  Upon  leaving  the  Government  wharf,  I 
felt  more  than  I  should  be  willing  to  express :  —  The 
world  do  [135]  not  understand  the  language  of  the  heart. 
I  consider  myself  under  particular  obligations  to  A.  G. 
W.  Esquire.  He  voluntarily  sought  my  acquaintance,  and 
in  the  most  interesting  manner  convinced  me  of  his  regard. 
This  gentleman  is  conspicuous  for  his  independence  and 


238  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

literary  attainments;  but  his  greatest  characteristic  is  na- 
tive modesty. 

Whilst  at  Detroit,  I  was  much  interested  and  amused 
by  the  conduct  of  an  Indian;  both  by  the  principles  upon 
which  he  acted,  and  the  manner  with  which  he  displayed 
them.  One  morning,  whilst  conversing  with  my  friend 
Doctor  W.  in  came  an  Indian,  and  putting  a  finger  to  his 
mouth  said,  with  a  patient  aspect  and  in  a  plaintive  tone, 
"very  sick."  The  poor  fellow  had  been  suffering  much 
from  the  tooth  ache,  and  he  wished  to  have  it  extracted. 
He  sat  down,  and  placing  his  hands  together,  and  inter- 
locking his  fingers  he  evinced,  during  the  operation,  much 
stoicism  mingled  with  an  interesting  resignation.  After 
the  tooth  was  removed,  he  asked  for  whiskey;  and  imme- 
diately upon  drinking  it  gravely  marched  off,  leaving  his 
tooth  as  the  only  compensation  for  the  whiskey  and  sur- 
gical aid. 

In  going  down  the  river  Detroit,  I  was  so  happy  as  to 
have  the  society  of  General  Macomb,  Major  M.  Capt.  W. 
and  Lieut.  B. 

The  river,  a  mile  below  the  city,  is  much  wider  than  it  is 
opposite  to  that  place;  and  a  little  further  down  there  is  a 
narrow  and  marshy  island  about  four  miles  in  length. 
Here  we  landed  and  refreshed  ourselves  from  the  General's 
provision  baskets.  Upon  this  island  we  found  an  almost 
innumerable  number  of  ducks;  they  were  heard  in  the 
grass  in  every  direction.  Vast  flocks  of  wild  fowl  are  al- 
most continually  swimming  in  the  river  Detroit. 

Soon  after  leaving  this  island  we  arrived  at  Grose  Isle.90 
The  latter  divides  the  river  into  two  channels.  [136]  Its 

go  Grosse  Isle,  nine  miles  in  length  and  about  a  mile  in  width,  was  purchased 
from  the  Indians  in  1776  by  William  Macomb;  it  extends  to  the  mouth  of  De- 
troit Strait.—  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  239 

soil  appears  to  be  good,  and  its  timber  valuable.  Upon 
this  island,  situated  about  three  miles  above  Maiden,  there 
is  a  small  fort  in  which  the  United  States  have  stationed  a 
few  troops.  The  situation  is  very  pleasant;  and  as  a  mili- 
tary post,  is  of  consequence.  A  little  below  this  place  is  a 
beautiful  summer  residence  belonging  to  General  Macomb, 
and  which,  I  believe,  is  called  St.  Helena.  The  outlet  to 
Lake  Erie,  between  Maiden  and  the  adjoining  land,  is 
very  narrow.  Maiden  itself  is  a  wretched  looking  place. 
It  appears,  indeed,  like  a  scalp  shop.  One  store,  a  ware- 
house, and  a  few  small  buildings  constitute  the  whole  of 
this  celebrated  position.  I  saw  no  inhabitants  there  ex- 
cepting two  or  three  crippled  Indians. 

After  remaining  one  night  at  Grose  Isle,  I  proceeded  to 
Maiden,  and  from  thence  entered  the  lake.  During  the 
night  the  wind  was  high,  and  we  run  back  a  considerable 
way  to  avoid  several  islands  called  the  Sisters.  Towards 
morning,  the  wind  being  fair,  we  continued  our  course. 
At  day  light  we  experienced  a  gale  of  wind,  and  run  for 
Put-in-Bay.  Our  Captain  was  a  very  experienced  sea- 
man, and  perfectly  understood  the  navigation  of  the  lake; 
but  having  got  among  a  cluster  of  little  islands,  situated 
near  the  bay,  he  was,  for  a  moment,  bewildered.  Our 
situation  was  highly  interesting.  The  darkness  of  the  gale 
seemed  to  contend  with  the  dawn;  and  fancy  could  almost 
see  it  hold  the  reins  of  the  car  of  day.  The  waves  dashed, 
our  sloop  ploughed  the  foam,  many  little  islands  reared, 
through  night,  their  ragged  tops,  our  Captain  exclaimed, 
' '  where  are  we  ?' '  and  all  was  hurly.  We  were  now  pass- 
ing over  the  battle  waves  of  the  gallant  Perry.  Our  little 
gunless  keel  moved  where  whole  fleets  had  stormed.  In 
fancy's  ear,  the  cannon's  roar  had  not  ceased  to  reverber- 
ate; the  undulating  wave  seemed  [137]  anxious  to  bury  the 


240  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

dead;  the  wind,  through  our  scanty  shrouds,  whispered  in 
the  ear  of  death;  and  the  green  wave,  reddened  by  battle, 
greedily  sported  around  our  sides." 

Many  of  the  islands  near  the  Bay  are  not  larger  than  a 
dwelling-house.  Their  sides  consist  of  ragged  rocks,  and 
on  their  summits  are  a  few  weather  beaten  trees. 

The  storm  continuing,  we  remained  at  anchor  in  Put- 
in-Bay four  days.  During  this  time  I  frequently  went 
ashore,  and  surveyed  the  island  of  this  name.  Wild  fowl 
are  numerous  here,  and  in  the  woods  there  are  swine.  The 
island  is  uninhabited.  Its  soil  and  the  growth  of  its  tim- 
ber are  very  good.  The  former  abounds  with  limestone. 

This  island  is  rendered  interesting  by  its  forming  the  bay 
in  which  our  fleet  was  moored  both  before  and  after  its 
great  victory;  and  also  by  its  containing  the  graves  of  some 
of  those  who  fell  in  the  engagement.  My  visit  to  these 
graves  excited  melancholy  reflections.  The  parade  and 
confusion  of  battle  had  passed;  and  nothing  was  heard  but 
the  chill  blast,  wending  its  devious  way  through  the  rank 
weeds.  So  bloody  was  this  battle,  that  the  victor  himself 
might  well  have  mourned. 

It  was  natural  for  me  here  to  reflect  upon  our  naval 
history.  During  the  Revolution  our  prowess  upon  the 
ocean  promised  every  thing;  and  in  the  late  war  even  the 
prophecies  of  philosophy,  and  the  inspirations  of  liberty, 
were  distanced.  But  I  must  speak  of  Renown!  Where 

91  When  Perry  reached  Erie,  Pennsylvania,  to  take  charge  of  naval  affairs 
(March,  1813),  he  found  two  vessels,  the  "Niagara"  and  the  "Lawrence," 
already  under  construction.  Working  with  tireless  energy  he  equipped  his 
fleet  of  ten  vessels  by  August  12,  and  sailing  up  the  lake  anchored  in  Put-in -Bay 
to  await  the  enemy.  On  the  morning  of  September  10,  the  British  squadron 
of  six  vessels,  under  Captain  Barclay,  appeared  and  the  battle  began.  The 
"Lawrence,"  Perry's  ship,  being  shot  to  pieces,  he  boarded  the  "Niagara," 
and  again  attacked  the  British  at  close  range.  At  three  in  the  afternoon,  Bar- 
clay's two  large  vessels  surrendered,  and  two  others  attempting  to  escape  were 
captured.  This  victory  compelled  the  British  to  evacuate  Detroit. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  241 

is  our  Wasp  ?w  True  glory  was  her  object ;  and  she  re- 
turns not  for  earthly  honours.  Langdon  and  Toscin  sleep 
in  France:93 — they  were  buds  of  fame.  Lawrence  fell, 
like  Hector,  by  the  shaft  of  fate.94  My  memory  is  full  of 
valour's  sons;  but  they  need  not  the  eulogy  of  my  pen. 

In  one  of  my  excursions  into  the  woods  of  Put-in-Bay 
[138]  island,  I  was  accompanied  by  my  friend  Capt.  W.  of 
the  United  States  Army,  a  gentleman  of  a  scientific  and 
polished  mind.  Having  provided  ourselves  with  some 
old  clothes,  we  visited  a  cave  situated  about  a  mile  from 
the  bay.  This  cave  is  smaller  than  some  others  in  the 
west;  but  is,  nevertheless,  worth  a  description. 

After  exploring  the  woods  for  some  time,  we  found  what 
we  supposed  might  be,  and  what  actually  was  the  cave. 
Its  front  is  situated  at  the  end  of  a  considerable  rise  of  land 
of  an  oval  form.  The  mouth  of  the  cave  was  very  small ; 
and  being  covered  with  sticks  and  leaves,  presented  a  very 
uninviting  aspect.  After  removing  the  obstructions,  we 
took  lights,  and  descending  about  ten  feet  perpendicularly, 
came  to  a  rock,  the  position  of  which  was  that  of  an  in- 

**The  "Wasp"  under  command  of  Johnston  Blakely  sailed  from  Ports- 
mouth for  the  British  Channel  (May,  1814),  and  began  the  destruction  of 
English  merchantmen.  June  28,  the  brig  "Reindeer"  bore  down  upon  her, 
but  after  twenty  minutes  of  hard  fighting  was  compelled  to  surrender.  Al- 
though suffering  severely  in  this  engagement,  the  "Wasp"  continued  her  rav- 
ages until  October,  when  she  disappeared  and  was  never  heard  from  again. —  ED. 

*  Henry  Langdon  and  Frank  Toscan  were  both  midshipmen  on  the  "Wasp ' ' 
during  her  fight  with  the  "Reindeer,"  and  died  from  wounds  received  in  the 
battle. —  ED. 

"James  Lawrence,  born  in  Burlington,  New  Jersey  (1781),  served  with 
Decatur  in  the  War  with  Tripoli,  and  as  lieutenant  on  the  "Constitution."  In 
181 1  he  was  placed  in  command  of  the  ' '  Hornet, ' '  his  most  notable  achievement 
with  that  vessel  being  the  destruction  (1813)  of  the  British  ship  "Peacock.' 
For  this  victory  he  was  given  command  of  the  "Chesapeake,"  and  accepting 
the  challenge  of  the  "  Shannon, ' '  fought  with  her  off  Boston  harbor,  June,  1813. 
He  fell,  mortally  wounded,  and  the  "Chesapeake"  was  compelled  to  surrender. 
His  countrymen,  stirred  by  his  dying  cry,  "Don't  give  up  the  ship,"  had  his 
body  brought  from  Halifax,  and  buried  with  military  honors  in  Trinity  Church- 
yard, New  York  City. —  ED. 


242  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

clined  plane.  This  rock  is,  in  its  descent,  met  by  the  front 
of  the  cave,  so  as  to  leave  an  aperture,  near  the  floor  of  it, 
of  only  about  three  feet  in  length,  and  eighteen  inches  in 
height.  This  aperture  also  was  covered  with  leaves. 
After  removing  them,  we  lay  flat,  and  crowded  ourselves, 
one  to  time,  into  an  unknown  and  dismal  region.  As  we 
advanced  the  cave,  gradually,  became  higher;  and  at 
length  we  could  move  in  an  erect  posture.  Here  we  found 
ourselves  in  a  spacious  apartment,  constituting  about  an 
acre,  and  surrounded  by  curious  petrifactions.  Those  on 
the  walls  were  small;  but  on  the  floor  of  the  cave  they  were 
large;  some  of  them  weighing  about  thirty  pounds.  The 
latter  are,  generally  of  a  pyramidical  form.  At  the  dis- 
tance of  about  two  hundred  feet  from  the  mouth  of  the 
cave,  we  came  to  a  precipice,  at  the  foot  of  which  was  a 
body  of  deep  water.  Whilst  my  companion  sat  upon  the 
brink  of  the  precipice,  I  descended  it,  and  holding  a  light 
in  one  hand,  swam  with  the  other  for  the  purpose  of  ascer- 
taining the  course  and  boundaries  of  this  subterranean 
lake. 

[139]  In  this  gloomy,  yet  interesting  cavern,  we  saw  no 
living  thing,  excepting  two  bats,  which  were  in  a  torpid 
state.  Whilst  exploring  the  most  distant  recesses  of  the 
cave,  one  of  our  candles  was  accidentally  extinguished. 
The  extinguishment  of  our  other  light  would,  perhaps, 
have  been  fatal  to  us.  The  darkness  of  this  dreary  region 
is  palpable.  No  ray  of  nature's  light  ever  visited  it.  Its 
silence  too  is  full  of  thought.  The  slippery  step  of  the 
traveller,  and  the  stilly  drippings  of  the  slimy  concave, 
yielded  a  contrast  which  made  silence  speak.  Our  own 
appearance  interested  us.  We  forgot  ourselves,  and  un- 
consciously dwelt  upon  two  ragged  Fiends,  prying,  with 
taper  dim,  along  the  confines  of  this  doleful  place.  We 
saw  these  beings  under  the  low  sides  of  the  cave  knocking 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  243 

off  some  large  petrifactions.  We  said,  who  are  they  ? — 
and  almost  shuddered  to  find  they  were  ourselves. 

As  soon  as  the  storm  ceased  we  set  sail  from  the  Bay, 
and  the  next  evening  arrived  at  Erie.  In  this  harbour 
were  several  United  States'  vessels  of  considerable  mag- 
nitude. The  banks  of  the  harbour,  on  the  town  side,  are 
high,  steep,  and  romantic;  and  from  them  there  is  an  ex- 
tensive view  of  the  Lake.  The  harbour  itself  is  spacious, 
and  the  water  deep. 

At  this  place  the  celebrated  General  Wayne  died,88  upon 
his  return  from  his  campaign  against  the  Indians.  Such 
was  the  success  of  this  great  soldier,  and  such  the  terror 
which  he  inspired  among  the  savages  against  whom  he 
fought,  that  to  this  day  they  call  him  the  "sinews. ' '  His 
mode  of  proceeding  into  the  country  of  the  enemy  ought 
ever  to  be  imitated.  Indians  may  always  be  defeated  by 
good  troops,  unless  when  the  latter  are  ambushed,  and 
surprised.  General  Wayne  proceeded  with  the  greatest 
caution  during  the  forepart  of  the  day,  and  [140]  in  the 
afternoon  employed  his  men  in  fortifying  for  the  night;  the 
consequence  was,  that  he  avoided  every  ambuscade,  ulti- 
mately met  the  enemy,  and  gave  them  a  chastising  which 
made  a  lasting  impression  upon  their  minds. 

After  reaping  many  laurels  in  this  campaign,  General 
Wayne  was  returning  home  to  enjoy  the  grateful  saluta- 
tions of  his  fellow  citizens;  but  death  arrested  him  at 
Erie.— 

"The  path  of  glory  leads  but  to  the  grave." 

After  leaving  Detroit,  I  received  a  letter  from  the  Secre- 
tary of  the  Lyceum  there,  informing  me  of  my  having,  on 
the  evening  of  my  departure,  been  admitted  an  honourary 
member  of  that  institution.  I  mention  this  fact  for  the 

"General  Anthony  Wayne  died  at  Erie,  Pennsylvania,  in  December 
1796. —  ED. 


244  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

purpose  of  introducing  an  anecdote  respecting  it,  which 
was  communicated  to  me  after  my  return  home,  and  which 
afforded  me  much  amusement. 

In  passing  through  the  country,  in  the  early  stages  of 
my  tour,  some  weak  minded  persons,  who  thought  that 
my  excursion  was  so  frought  with  danger  as  to  render  it 
presumptuous,  were  offended  by  the  undertaking;  and 
adding  a  little  ill-nature  to  this  idea,  their  invectives  were 
even  more  keen  than  the  wintry  winds.  One  of  these  per- 
sons, whose  common  sense  is  like  Shakspeare's  grain  of 
wheat  in  a  bushel  of  chaff;  and  whose  learning  is  equalled 
only  by  that  of  the  good  Mrs.  Maleprop,  exclaimed  one 
day,  upon  seeing  some  newspaper,  which  contained  an 
account  of  the  Pedestrian  having  been  admitted  into  the 
Lyceum  at  Detroit,  "well,  they  have  got  him  into  the  mad- 
house at  last ! ' '  Mad-house  ?  said  a  friend.  Yes,  replied 
this  Xenophen  of  the  age, — ' '  the  mad-house ! —  the  Ly- 
ceum ! —  all  the  same  thing ! ' ' 

[141]  From  Erie  I  proceeded  to  Waterford,  a  distance  of 
fourteen  miles.  At  this  place  the  snow  upon  the  ground 
was  eighteen  inches  deep.  The  spring  in  the  west  was 
very  backward.  I  shall  speak  upon  this  topic  in  another 
place. 

Waterford  is  a  small  village,  and  is  situated  on  the  Creek 
Le  Beuf .  At  this  place  is  a  block  house,  which  was  erected 
during  the  old  French  war.98  The  Creek  Le  Beuf  is  about 
five  miles  in  length,  and  about  six  rods  wide.  Between 
this  creek  and  French  Creek,  there  is  a  little  lake,  covering 
about  ten  acres.  French  Creek  is  eighty  miles  long,  and 
about  twenty  rods  in  width.  This  creek  is  one  of  the 
sources  of  the  Alleghany  river,  and  enters  it  near  Fort 
Franklin.  The  Alleghany  river  rises  on  the  west  of  the 

"  For  a  brief  history  of  Fort  Le  Bceuf,  see  Croghan's  Journals,  volume  i  of 
our  series,  note  65. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  245 

mountains  of  this  name ;  and  after  running  about  two  hun- 
dred miles  meets  the  Monongahela. 

The  Creek  Le  Beuf  is  very  crooked,  and  French  Creek 
considerably  so.  The  principal  boats  upon  these  and  upon 
the  Alleghany  river  are  called  keels.  They  are  constructed 
like  a  whale  boat,  sharp  at  both  ends;  their  length  is 
about  seventy  feet,  breadth  ten  feet,  and  they  are  rowed 
by  two  oars  at  each  end.  These  boats  will  carry  about 
twenty  tons,  and  are  worth  two  hundred  dollars.  At  the 
stern  of  the  boat  is  a  stearing  oar,  which  moves  on  a  pivot, 
and  extends  about  twelve  feet  from  the  stern.  These 
boats  move  down  the  river  with  great  velocity.  Through 
the  sinuosities  of  the  narrow  creek  Le  Beuf,  the  oar  in  the 
stern,  by  being  pressed  against  the  banks,  gives  to  the  1 3at 
a  great  impetus. 

In  going  up  the  rivers  these  boats  are  poled.  The  poles 
are  about  eight  feet  in  length,  and  the  bottom  of  them  en- 
ters a  socket  of  iron,  which  causes  the  point  of  the  pole  to 
sink  immediately.  This  [142]  business  is  very  laborious, 
and  the  progress  of  the  boats  slow. 

The  land  near  the  creek  Le  Beuf  and  French  Creek, 
particularly  the  former,  is  low  and  cold.  Wild  fowl  are 
here  very  numerous.  The  lands  on  each  side  of  the  Alle- 
ghany river,  for  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  above  Pitts- 
burgh, are  generally  mountainous.  The  growth  of  timber 
here  is  principally  white  oak  and  chesnut,  and  in  some 
places  pitch  pine.  There  are  on  this  river  some  good 
lands,  and  some  of  a  very  inferior  quality.  But  some  of 
the  best  of  the  Pennsylvania  tracts  lie  in  the  north  west  of 
the  state. 

The  banks  of  the  Alleghany  river  are,  in  many  places, 
exceedingly  high,  steep,  and  rocky.  Whilst  moving  along 
the  current  they  appear  stupendous.  The  bed  of  this  river 
and  of  French  Creek  is  stony,  and  the  water  of  them  very 


246  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

clear.  On  these  rivers  are  many  rapids,  over  some  of 
which  boats  move  at  the  rate  of  twelve  miles  an  hour.  In 
passing  down  the  Alleghany  the  scenery  is  delightful.  The 
boats  move  with  much  velocity;  the  country  scarcely  seems 
inhabited ;  the  mountains,  almost  lost  to  vision,  rise  in  rude 
majesty  on  both  sides  of  the  river;  the  pellucid  aspect  of 
the  water;  the  darting  fish;  the  anxious  loon;  the  profound 
solitude,  rendered  more  impressive  by  the  regular  dash  of 
the  oar:  all  these,  and  many  other  circumstances,  carry 
the  mind  back  to  the  days,  when  the  original  occupants 
of  the  neighbouring  wilds  lived  under  the  simple  govern- 
ment of  nature,  and  did  not  dream  of  the  storm,  which  civ- 
ilization was  preparing  for  them. 

On  French  Creek  are  situated  Meadville,  Franklin,  and 
several  other  inconsiderable  places.  Here  too  are  the  re- 
mains of  several  old  forts.  At  Fort  Franklin  the  French 
formerly  kept  a  garrison.97  As  [143]  far  down  this  river 
as  Meadville  the  water  is  still.  The  principal  falls  on  this 
creek  and  Alleghany  river,  are  Montgomery,  Patterson, 
Amberson,  Nichalson,  and  Catfish.  The  creeks  and  rivers, 
which  enter  these  waters,  are  numerous;  but  it  is  not 
deemed  worth  while  to  name  them:  the  principal,  how- 
ever, of  those  which  enters  the  Alleghany  are  Toby's, 
Sandy,  Lick,  Pine,  and  Buffalo  creeks;  and  Crooked  and 
Kiskernanetas  rivers.98  In  some  places  on  the  Alleghany 
hills,  there  are  fine  farms.  On  the  river  is  situated  the  lit- 
tle village  of  Armstrong;  and  behind  the  hills  stands 
Lawrencetown."  I  found  marching  over  these  mountains 

97  This  was  Fort  Venango;  see  Croghan's  Journals,  note  64.    For  Meadville. 
see  Harris's  Journal,  volume  iii  of  our  series,  note  25. —  ED. 

98  Consult  Post's  Journals,  in  volume  i  of  our  series,  notes  22,  89,  for  these 
rivers. —  ED. 

"Armstrong,  nine  miles  northeast  of  Pittsburg,  was  named  in  honor  of 
Colonel  John  Armstrong.  In  1756  he  led  an  expedition  against  the  Delaware 
Indians  who  were  ravaging  the  frontier,  and  destroyed  their  town  at  Kittanning. 

Lawrencetown,  now  Lawrenceville,  is  two  miles  east  of  Pittsburg. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  247 

very  laborious;  but  the  prospects  from  them  richly  repaid 
me  for  my  pains.  Here  I  dw^lt  upon  the  situation  of  this 
vicinity  about  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century;  of 
the  wars  between  our  ancestors  and  the  French  and  In- 
dians; and  of  the  youthful  patriotism  and  prowess  of  our 
inimitable  Washington.  At  the  age  of  twenty-one,  he  was 
employed  by  his  native  State  in  an  enterprise,  which  re- 
quired great  courage,  prudence,  and  physical  vigour. 
Whilst  this  part  of  the  country  was  occupied  by  the  French, 
and  inhabited  by  many  hostile  tribes  of  Indians,  he  trav- 
elled from  Will's  Creek,  in  Virginia,  to  Fort  Du  Quesne, 
situated  at  the  forks  of  the  Alleghany  and  Monongahela 
rivers;  and  from  thence  up  the  former  to  the  French  Fort 
on  the  Le  Beuf  .10°  During  a  part  of  this  journey  he  pro- 
ceeded on  foot,  with  a  gun  in  his  hand  and  a  pack  on  his 
back.  This  enterprise  developed  faculties  which  after- 
wards saved  his  country. 

To  eulogize  this  great  and  good  man  is  in  vain.  He  is  so 
far  above  our  praise,  that  we  can  honour  him  only  in  serv- 
ing that  country  which  he  so  much  loved.  His  wisdom 
and  virtue  constitute  the  greatest  of  human  examples. 
Our  children  should  early  [144]  be  taught  to  know,  to 
love,  and  to  imitate  him. 

The  Alleghany  river,  near  Pittsburgh,  presents  an  ex- 
pansive aspect.  At  this  place  it  meets  the  Monongahela 
from  the  south,  and  both  pour  their  waters  into  the  Ohio. 
In  this  union  there  is  a  silent  grandeur. 

About  two  miles  above  this  junction,  on  the  Alleghany, 
is  a  small  Fort;  and  here  some  troops  are  stationed.  The 
situation  of  the  Fort  is  very  retired  and  interesting. 

Pittsburgh  lies  in  the  state  of  Pennsylvania,  and  is  sit- 


100  For  a  brief  account  of  this  journey,  see  Croghan's  Journals,  volume  i  of 
our  series,  note  45.  Washington's  starting  point  was  the  Virginia  capital,  Win- 
chester. Fort  Duquesne  was  not  erected  until  1754. —  ED. 


248  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

uated  on  the  point  of  land  formed  by  the  Alleghany  and 
Monongahela.  Fort  Pitt  occupies  the  scite  of  the  old  Fort 
Du  Quesne;  but  even  the  former  is  now  in  ruins.101  Oppo- 
site to  Pittsburgh,  on  the  Alleghany,  is  a  considerable  vil- 
lage, and  preparation  is  making  for  building  a  bridge  across 
this  part  of  the  river.  There  are  also  a  considerable  num- 
ber of  buildings  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Monongahela. 
Immediately  back  of  these  buildings  there  is  a  ridge  of 
very  high  and  steep  hills,  which  contain  inexhaustible  coal 
mines.  Some  coal  mines  exist  also  in  the  Alleghany  hills, 
and  in  the  banks  of  the  Ohio.  Those  on  the  west  of  the 
Monongahela,  constitute  a  horizontal  strata  six  inches 
thick  and  apparently  unlimited  in  its  direction  through 
the  mountain.  This  coal  is  superior  to  that  of  England : 
it  is  heavier,  and  contains  a  greater  quantity  of  the  bitu- 
menous  quality.  The  general  price  of  this  article  at  Pitts- 
burgh is  about  six  cents  a  bushel. 

The  town  of  Pittsburgh,  viewed  from  the  confluence  of 
the  two  rivers,  presents  a  contracted  and  an  unfavourable 
aspect;  but  from  other  situations  it  appears  much  better. 
Its  scite  is  level  and  rather  low;  and  the  rivers,  during  their 
rise,  flow  for  a  considerable  distance  into  the  streets.  The 
town  [145]  is  very  large.  Many  of  its  buildings  are  of 
brick,  and  are  generally  of  a  large  size.  The  streets  cross 
each  other  at  right  angles,  but  are  quite  narrow.  Owing 
to  the  exclusive  use  of  coal  here,  both  by  the  manufacturer, 
and  by  private  families,  the  whole  town  presents  a  smoky 
appearance.  Even  the  complexion  of  the  people  is  affect- 
ed by  this  cause.  The  business  of  Pittsburgh  is  great; 
but  is  generally  believed  to  be  declining.  This  place  is 
engaged  in  trade,  more  or  less,  with  the  whole  western 
world ;  and  may  be  considered  the  metropolis  of  this  vast 

101  For  information  regarding  these  forts,  see  A.  Michaux's  Travels,  volume 
Hi  of  our  series,  notes  n,  12;  F.  A.  Michaux's  Travels,  op.  cit.,  note  20. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  249 

tract  of  country.  It  procures  its  foreign  goods,  principally, 
from  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore ;  which  goods  are  brought 
in  waggons  across  the  Alleghany  mountains.  The  dis- 
tance from  these  places  to  Pittsburgh  is  about  three  hun- 
dred miles;  and  the  price  of  conveying  the  goods  thither 
by  the  usual  route,  is  from  five  to  six  dollars  per  one  hun- 
dred weight.  This  place  also  transacts  some  little  busi- 
ness with  the  City  of  New- York,  by  the  way  of  the  Hud- 
son and  Mohawk,  Lakes  Ontario  and  Erie,  and  the  river 
Alleghany.  Provisions  in  Pittsburgh  are,  generally,  cheap. 
Foreign  goods,  however,  are  necessarily  high. 

This  place  is  celebrated  for  its  manufactories,  and  will 
become  the  Birmingham  of  America.  Here,  one  may  see 
the  surprising  progress,  which  the  people  of  this  country 
are  making  in  mechanics  of  almost  every  kind,  both  as  it 
respects  invention  and  workmanship.  Indeed  it  is  evident, 
that  in  the  United  States  the  elements  of  the  body  politic 
are  all  in  the  most  healthful  action,  and  that  we  are  rapidly 
approaching  to  a  glorious  manhood.  We  have  only,  in 
our  progress,  to  guard  against  two  evils: — an  undue  at- 
tachment to  money,  and  too  little  regard  for  sound  morals 
and  solid  learning.  The  extraordinary  attention,  which 
has  of  late  been  paid  to  the  [146]  moral  and  religious  edu- 
cation of  children,  promises  to  furnish  for  the  future  ser- 
vice of  our  country,  men  of  true  wisdom; — "men  who 
will  fear  God  and  hate  covetousness. ' ' 

Speaking  merely  as  a  politician,  I  may  say,  that  a  due 
regard  to  this  part  of  education  is  the  great  desideratum 
in  civil  government.  But  in  relation  to  a  future  state  the 
subject  is  of  infinitely  greater  consequence.  Our  sabbath 
schools,  in  which  children  are  taught  to  commit  to  mem- 
ory the  Sacred  Oracles,  have  been  attended  with  such  won- 
derful success,  that  they  appear  to  be  forming  a  new  epoch 
in  the  progress  of  the  Christian  Religion.  This  is  a  field 


250  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

in  which  thousands  can  do  much  good.  Heaven  has  thus 
opened  a  new  vineyard,  in  which  almost  any  one  may  re- 
move the  noxious  weed,  and  nourish  the  tender  plant. 

Ship  and  boat  building  is  actively  carried  on  at  Pitts- 
burgh; but  of  late  no  vessels  of  a  large  tonnage  have  been 
made,  on  account  of  the  dangers  incident  to  getting  them 
down  the  Ohio.  Very  few  of  the  vessels  and  boats  built 
here  ever  return  up  the  river  so  far  as  this  place;  and  of 
course  there  is  here  a  constant  demand  for  new  vessels. 
Strangers  from  every  part  of  the  sea  board,  generally  take 
this  place  in  their  way  to  the  West.  Emigrants  from 
every  quarter  are  continually  arriving  here,  and  stand  in 
need  of  boats  of  various  kinds  to  transport  their  goods  and 
their  families.  A  great  many  foreign  emigrants,  partic- 
ularly those  of  them  who  are  mechanics,  are  often  arriv- 
ing from  New- York,  Philadelphia,  and  Baltimore,  to 
Pittsburgh;  and  from  the  latter  place  some  of  them  pass 
on  to  the  manufacturing  establishments  further  west. 

The  sects  of  Christians  in  Pittsburgh  are  very  numerous. 
The  Christian  Religion  is  so  momentous,  and,  in  some  re- 
spects, so  mysterious  a  subject,  that  it  [147]  is  perfectly 
natural  for  people,  in  looking  beyond  those  of  its  prin- 
ciples, which  are  easily  understood,  and  which  are  suffi- 
cient to  make  plain  before  us  the  path  of  duty,  to  be  di- 
vided in  opinion  respecting  it.  This  would  be  the  effect, 
in  a  greater  or  less  degree,  upon  all  abstract  questions,  or 
upon  questions  involving  principles  beyond  the  reach  of 
our  intellectual  vision.  The  human  mind  too,  is  prone  to 
dispute  upon  unessential  points;  and  here,  principally, 
arises  pride  of  opinion,  and  the  spirit  of  persecution. — 
There  is  nothing  in  the  questions  themselves  to  ennoble 
the  mind,  or  to  give  force  and  dignity  to  its  investigations. 
It  is  upon  trifles,  that  even  great  minds  become  passionate. 

Nearly  all  the  sects  of  Christians  subscribe  to  the  doc- 


1818]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  251 

trines  of  faith,  repentance,  holiness,  and  charity;  of  course 
the  great  variety  of  sects  do  not  call  in  question  the  con- 
sistency of  God's  holy  word. 

Trifles  give  rise  to  sects;  pride  supports,  and  novelty 
obtains  proselytes  for  them.  Upon  these  trifles  are,  from 
time  to  time,  engrafted  views  and  objects  of  more  weight, 
and  hence  the  sect  becomes  respectable. —  A  congrega- 
tional society  becomes  divided  on  account  of  some  petty 
dispute  upon  a  minor  question  involved  in  church  disci- 
pline, or  in  relation  to  taxation  for  the  support  of  the  min- 
istry. The  consequence  is,  that  in  a  few  weeks  an 
episcopalian,  and  a  baptist,  and  perhaps  other  societies 
become  established  in  the  same  town.  Where  the  opposi- 
tionists will  not  resort  to  a  new  form,  some  variations  will 
be  suggested,  and  texts  of  scripture  will  be  found  to  sanc- 
tion them. —  The  protestants  gave  rise  to  the  sect  of  puri- 
tans; and  the  presbyterians  have  created  the  sect  of  sece- 
ders. 

No  man  who  is  acquainted  with  the  human  mind  and 
heart,  and  who  is  well  versed  in  ecclesiastical  history,  will 
ever  suffer  himself  to  be  partial  to  one  [148]  sect  above 
another  of  sincere  and  pious  Christians.  A  man  cannot 
say,  that,  under  certain  circumstances,  he  might  not  him- 
self become  a  bitter  sectary.  What  has  been  may  be 
again;  and  what  may  be  may  be  now. —  Our  righteous 
ancestors  fled  from  the  persecuting  hand  of  christianized 
Europe;  and,  in  America,  they,  in  their  turn,  persecuted 
unto  death  the  sect  of  Quakers.  Where  was  their  humil- 
ity!—  where  was  their  charity!  I  would  sooner  trust  a 
mad  man  than  a  religious  zealot ;  and  I  should  think  that 
man  weak  minded,  who  would  not  be  perfectly  and 
equally  willing  to  engage  in  public  worship  with  any  sect 
of  pious  and  sincere  Christians  on  earth. 

Many  people  pretend  to  know  too  much  respecting  the 


252  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

mysterious  parts  of  religion.  The  great  apostle  of  the 
Gentiles,  who,  as  a  man,  possessed  a  powerful  and  highly 
improved  mind,  and,  as  a  Christian,  abounded  in  grace 
said,  that  "here  we  see  through  a  glass  darkly;"  yet  mere 
babes  in  the  knowledge  of  the  Christian  system,  pretend 
even  to  demonstrate  concerning  it,  what,  in  the  nature  of 
things,  is  not  demonstrable.  In  young  ministers  this  is 
the  foppery  of  learning;  and  in  old  ones  clerical  pride. 

Many  persons  too,  are  dissatisfied  with  the  light  which 
exists  upon  this  subject ;  and  hence  arise  fruitless  specula- 
tions, and  ultimate  unbelief.  God  has  sufficiently  en- 
lightened our  path  to  futurity;  and  he  has  condescend- 
ingly done  it,  to  quicken  us  in  the  Christian  course,  and  to 
cheer  us  in  the  hour  of  death.  Instead,  however,  of  grate- 
fully considering  this  expression  of  kindness  as  a  gift,  we 
look,  with  discontent,  for  the  development  of  the  whole 
counsel  of  Heaven  concerning  us: — this  is  pride! — this 
is  presumption! 

But  I  may  add,  that  if  this  light  affects  only  the  reason- 
ing powers  of  man,  it  will  never,  in  my  humble  [149]  opin- 
ion, eventuate  in  that  faith  which  is  necessary  to  the  pro- 
duction of  a  pure  heart  and  holy  life.  The  moral  as  well 
as  the  intellectual  man  must  be  enlightened.  True  faith 
resides  altogether  in  the  heart. —  This  is  the  theatre  of 
hope  and  fear,  joy  and  sorrow,  love  and  hatred; — the 
theatre  of  guilt,  and  of  repentance;  the  theatre  of  rebel- 
lion, of  obedience,  and  of  prayer. 

As  I  dislike  to  see  a  layman  in  theology,  or  a  theologian 
in  politics,  I  shall  say  no  more  upon  this  subject. 

The  people  of  Pittsburgh  are  not,  generally  speaking, 
remarkable  for  their  sociability.  They  are  very  attentive 
to  their  business,  and  seem  to  care  but  little  about  those 
around  them.  A  next-door  neighbour  is,  with  them,  fre- 
quently unknown;  and  months  and  years  pass,  without 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  253 

their  exchanging  with  each  other  the  ordinary  compli- 
ments of  friendship  and  good  will.  As  is  the  case  with 
many  of  the  cities  of  Europe,  a  simple  partition  renders 
unknown,  for  a  great  length  of  time,  those  who  live  under 
the  same  roof. 

The  inhabitants  of  Pittsburgh  are  very  suspicious  of  the 
Yankees;  and  judging  from  the  character  of  a  few,  un- 
charitably condemn  the  whole.  This  is  more  or  less  the 
case  throughout  the  west.  The  Yankees  are  every  where 
considered,  an  intelligent,  hardy,  bold,  active,  and  enter- 
prising people;  but  they  are  supposed  to  be  excessively 
fond  of  money,  and  frequently  to  obtain  it  by  fraudulent 
means. 

As  to  the  love  of  money  it  is,  throughout  the  whole  coun- 
try, poisoning  the  fountain  of  individual  and  national 
respectability;  but  as  to  the  means  of  obtaining  it,  the 
Yankees  are,  probably,  as  honest  as  other  people. 

The  characteristics  of  the  people  of  any  particular  town, 
generally  depend  upon  the  disposition  and  [150]  habits  of 
its  first  settlers.  Sometimes  these  first  settlers  are  hos- 
pitable and  fond  of  society;  and  sometimes  they  are  exclu- 
sively devoted  to  business,  and  consider  every  stranger, 
who  makes  his  appearance  among  them,  as  actuated  by 
the  same  views. 

With  respect  to  the  characteristics  of  the  people  of 
Pittsburgh,  I  judge  only  from  information  which  I  ob- 
tained there,  and  which  appeared  to  be  sanctioned  by  the 
general  aspect  of  things  in  relation  to  them. 

During  my  short  visit  at  this  place,  I  became  particu- 
larly acquainted  with  the  family  of  E.  B.  Esq. ;  and  men- 
tion this  circumstance  for  the  purpose  of  affording  myself 
the  satisfaction  of  expressing  some  sentiments  respect- 
ing them.  So  interesting  were  they,  that  I  have,  ever 
since  I  left  them,  regretted  the  loss  of  their  society.  Mr. 


254  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

B.  is  a  German;  has  travelled  a  great  deal,  both  in  Europe 
and  America;  is  acquainted  with  many  languages;  pos- 
sesses very  extensive  information ;  and  is  a  man  of  a  sound 
and  discriminating  mind.  Possessing  too,  much  sensibil- 
ity, and  much  delicacy  of  taste,  his  ideas  are  polished,  and 
interestingly  expressed.  In  Mrs.  B.  are  combined  good 
sense,  simplicity,  and  benevolence.  E****  is  sensible, 
and  innocently  romantic ;  and  in  the  little  daughters  are 
blended  much  vivacity  and  loveliness. 

On  the  back  part  of  Pittsburgh  there  is  a  rise  of  ground, 
called  Grant's  Hill.  Here  one  may  have  a  perfect  view  of 
the  town;  and  its  appearance  from  this  position  is  very 
much  in  its  favour.  This  hill  was  occupied  by  the  Eng- 
lish General  Grant  during  the  old  French  war;  and  here 
he  surrendered  to  the  enemy.102  About  nine  miles  up  the 
Monongahela  is  the  place  called  Braddock's  Fields.103  It 
is  celebrated  by  the  defeat  there  of  the  general  of  this 
name.  These  fields  are  also  noted  by  their  [151]  being 
the  rendezvous  of  the  Whiskey  Boys  during  the  western 
insurrection  in  1 794.  The  defeat  of  Braddock  took  place 
in  1755.  Many  vestiges  of  this  bloody  engagement  are 
still  visible.  It  is  well  known  that  here  our  Washington 
acted  as  a  volunteer  aid  to  General  Braddock;  and  by  his 
intrepidity,  and  military  skill,  saved  the  English  troops 
from  total  destruction.  In  the  engagement  Washington 
had  two  horses  shot  under  him,  and  received  four  balls 
through  his  clothes. 

The  Monongahela  river  is  a  noble  stream.  It  rises  at 
the  foot  of  the  Laurel  mountains,  is  about  four  hundred 
yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  is  navigable  at  a  great  distance, 

102  Regarding  Grant's  defeat,  see^Harris's  Journal,  volume  iii  of  our  series, 
note  30. —  ED. 

103  For  an  account  of  Braddock's  defeat,  see  F.  A.  Michaux's  Travels,  note 
19. —  ED. 


z8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  255 

and  its  current  is  deep  and  gentle.  Across  this  river,  at 
Pittsburgh,  an  elegant  bridge  has  recently  been  erected. 

After  remaining  at  Pittsburgh  two  days,  I  descended 
the  Ohio  for  a  few  miles,  and  then  landed  on  its  western 
bank.  The  state  of  Ohio  is  situated  altogether  on  the 
west  of  the  river,  and  is  bounded  east  by  Pennsylvania, 
north  by  Lake  Erie  and  Michigan  Territory,  and  west  by 
Indiana.  The  length  of  the  river  is  about  eleven  hundred 
miles,  and  its  average  breadth  about  one  half  of  a  mile;  in 
some  places,  however,  its  width  is  about  twice  this  distance. 
The  river  is,  generally,  very  deep,  sufficiently  so  for  the 
navigation  of  large  ships.  Its  aspect  is  placid  and  clear; 
and  when  the  water  is  high,  is  expansive  and  beautiful.  It 
contains  a  great  many  islands,  and  is  stored  with  a  variety 
of  fish  and  fowl.  The  river  sometimes  rises  forty  or  fifty 
feet,  and  greatly  endangers  the  settlements  upon  its  banks. 
Sometimes  too,  the  river  is  low  and  appears  inconsiderable. 
Its  sinuosities  are  numerous,  and  in  the  spring  of  the  year, 
the  abrasive  effect  of  the  floating  ice  and  trees  upon  its 
banks  is  very  great. 

[152]  The  general  aspect  of  the  state  of  Ohio  is  rather 
level  than  otherwise.  There  are  here  no  elevations  which 
can  be  called  mountains;  but  the  country  is  gently  diver- 
sified. The  upper  part  of  it  is  most  hilly.  West  of  Chili- 
cothe  it  is  nearly  level.  In  various  parts  of  the  state,  there 
are  extensive  prairies  covered  with  high  grass.  Those 
near  the  river  are  small ;  but  those  in  the  interior  are  from 
thirty  to  fifty  miles  in  extent.  The  soil  of  the  state  is, 
generally,  very  fertile;  but  as  is  the  case  every  where  else, 
some  of  its  lands  are  sterile,  and  some  unfit  for  cultiva- 
tion. Its  forests  are  spacious  and  elegant.  The  sycamore 
trees  here  are  numerous,  and  some  of  them  surpris- 
ingly large.  In  this  and  the  other  western  states  there  is 
still  considerable  game;  but  the  hand  of  civilization  having 


256  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

here  wantonly  destroyed  much,  a  scarcity  has,  for  some 
time,  been  experienced. 

Most  of  the  western  states  in  a  great  measure  resemble, 
as  to  their  aspect,  the  state  of  Ohio.  This  whole  range  of 
country  is  better  calculated  for  the  production  of  grain 
than  for  the  growth  of  cattle.  The  pastures  here,  however, 
are  rich;  and  the  woods  so  abound  with  nuts,  that  immense 
herds  of  swine  are  raised  in  them  without  the  least  expence. 
The  climate,  judging  from  the  general  appearance  of  the 
inhabitants,  I  should  suppose  much  less  healthy  than  that 
of  New-England ;  and  in  particular  situations  the  fever  and 
ague,  and  bilious  fevers  are  very  prevalent. 

In  travelling  from  Pittsburgh  to  New-Orleans,  I  some- 
times moved  upon  the  rivers,  and  sometimes  marched  in 
the  woods.  In  the  latter  the  traveller  is,  during  the 
summer  season,  greatly  annoyed  by  musquetoes.  Having 
no  covering,  I  was  often  employed  during  the  whole  night 
in  defending  myself  against  them.  Here  I  may  observe, 
that  from  the  [153]  time  of  my  leaving  Pittsburgh  to  my 
arrival  at  New-Orleans,  I  slept  in  the  open  air  about  thirty 
nights.  The  night  dews  did  not  affect  my  health. 

The  boats  which  float  upon  the  river  Ohio  are  various: 
—  from  the  ship  of  several  hundred  tons  burthen,  to  the 
mere  skiff.  Very  few  if  any  very  large  vessels,  however, 
are  now  built  at  Pittsburgh,  or  indeed  at  any  other  place  on 
the  Ohio.  They  were  formerly  built  on  this  river,  partic- 
ularly at  Pittsburgh  and  Marietta;  but  the  difficulties  inci- 
dent to  getting  them  to  the  ocean,  have  rendered  such 
undertakings  unfrequent. 

An  almost  innumerable  number  of  steam  boats,  barks, 
keels,  and  arks,  are  yearly  set  afloat  upon  this  river,  and 
upon  its  tributary  streams.  The  barks  are  generally 
about  one  hundred  tons  burthen,  have  two  masts,  and 
are  rigged  as  schooners,  and  hermaphrodite  brigs.  The 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestriou*  Tour  257 

keels  have,  frequently,  covered  decks,  and  sometimes 
carry  one  mast.  These  and  also  the  barks  are  sometimes 
rowed  and  sometimes  moved  up  the  river  by  poling,  and 
by  drawing  them  along  shore  with  ropes.  The  flat  boat 
or  ark  is  of  a  clumsy  construction;  but  very  burthensome. 
Its  foundation  consists  of  sills  like  those  of  a  house,  and  to 
these  is  trunneled  a  floor  of  plank.  The  sides  are  of  boards 
loosely  put  together,  and  the  top  is  covered  in  the  same 
way.  The  bottom  of  the  boat,  and  so  much  of  the  sides 
as  come  in  contact  with  the  water,  are  caulked.  Some  of 
this  kind  of  boat  will  carry  four  or  five  hundred  barrels  of 
flour,  besides  considerable  quantities  of  bacon,  cheese,  and 
other  produce.  On  the  deck  of  the  ark  are  two  large  oars, 
moving  on  pivots,  and  at  the  stern  there  is  a  large  stearing 
oar.  The  progress  of  the  ark  is  principally  in  floating 
with  the  current ;  and  the  oars  are  seldom  used  excepting 
for  the  purpose  of  rowing  ashore. 

[154]  The  business  carried  on  by  boats,  on  the  Ohio  and 
Mississippi,  is  immense.  The  freight  of  goods  up  and 
down  these  rivers  is  high;  and  the  freighting  business  here 
is  exceedingly  profitable.  No  property  pays  so  great  an 
interest  as  that  of  steam  boats  on  these  rivers.  A  trip  of  a 
few  weeks  yields  one  hundred  per  cent  upon  the  capital 
employed. 

The  arks,  and,  generally  speaking,  the  keels,  when  they 
reach  New-Orleans,  seldom  return  up  the  river  again. 
The  former  are  sold  for  lumber. 

The  current  of  the  Ohio  is  about  four  miles  an  hour. 
That  of  the  Mississippi  is  rather  quicker. 

On  the  river  Ohio,  nearly  opposite  to  Louisville,  there 
are  rapids,  the  descent  of  which  is  about  twenty-three  feet 
in  the  distance  of  two  miles.  Owing  to  this  circumstance 
many  boats  do  not  return  from  below  this  place.  This 
difficulty,  however,  is  about  to  be  removed  by  a  canal, 


258  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

which  will  give  to  the  river,  at  this  place,  another  direc- 
tion.104 This  is  the  only  considerable  obstruction  in  the 
whole  course  of  the  Ohio. 

In  the  rapids  there  are  three  passages,  and  they  are  all 
taken  at  different  times,  according  to  the  state  of  the  river. 
Pilots  are,  by  law,  appointed  to  navigate  boats  down  the 
rapids.  The  quantity  of  water  in  the  river  often  varies: 
it  sometimes  both  rises  and  falls  in  the  course  of  a  few 
hours. 

Before  I  proceed  further  down  this  river,  I  must  notice 
those  parts  of  Pennsylvania  and  Virginia,  which  lie  on  the 
Ohio.  The  western  boundary  of  Pennsylvania  lies  about 
forty  miles  west  of  French  Creek  and  Alleghany  river;  and 
west  of  Pittsburgh/  on  both  sides  of  the  Ohio,  about  the 
same  distance.  North-west,  it  is  bounded  by  a  part  of 
Lake  Erie,  and  south  by  a  part  of  Virginia. 

A  part  of  the  state  of  Virginia  lies  on  the  Ohio,  [155] 
having  a  part  of  Pennsylvania  on  the  east,105  and  Ken- 
tucky on  the  west.  The  principal  waters,  which  enter  the 
Ohio  from  Pennsylvania,  are  the  Big  Beaver  on  the  north, 
and  Racoon  Creek  on  the  south. 

In  travelling  in  the  vicinity  of  the  western  rivers,  I  could 
not  always  obtain  good  accommodations  upon  them.  As 
such  accommodations,  however,  were  of  but  little  conse- 
quence to  me,  I  always,  when  I  wished  to  descend  the 
rivers,  jumped  into  the  first  boat  I  could  find. —  Some- 
times I  moved  along  in  a  keel,  sometimes  in  an  ark,  and 
sometimes  rowed  myself  in  a  little  skiff.  By  taking  this 
course,  I  not  only  could  land  when  I  pleased,  but  became 
particularly  acquainted  with  the  navigation  of  the  rivers, 
and  with  the  various  means  of  transportation  upon  them. 

IM  The  Louisville-Portland  Canal  was  completed  in  1830. —  ED. 
106  For  the  Virginia-Pennsylvania  boundary,  consult  F.  A.  Michaux's  Trav- 
els, note  31. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  259 

My  society,  it  is  true,  was  not  always  the  best;  but,  per- 
haps, not  the  less  instructive  for  this  circumstance.  To 
become  practically  acquainted  with  the  world,  one  must 
see  human  nature  in  all  its  aspects.  Sometimes  I  met  real 
gentlemen,  and  sometimes  fell  in  with  the  perfect  boor.  I 
was  not  known  to  any  one;  but  the  boatmen,  frequently 
becoming  sick,  applied  to  me  for  medical  aid ;  and  hence  I 
acquired  the  title  of  Doctor. 

My  prescriptions  were  always  simple;  and,  strange  to 
tell,  I  did  not  lose  a  single  patient.  My  knowledge  of  the 
Materia  Medica  was,  no  doubt,  limited.  Without,  how- 
ever, consulting  Celsus  or  Boerhave,  I  always  told  the 
sick,  that  in  a  few  days,  -they  would  be  perfectly  well.  I 
really  suppose  that  men  often  die,  because  they  think  they 
shall.  Much  depends,  in  sickness,  upon  the  state  of  the 
mind.  Our  intellectual  and  physical  nature  always  sym- 
pathise with  each  other.  Resistance  lessens  the  force  of 
an  attack;  and  there  is  something  [156]  in  the  declaration, 
I  will  not  be  conquered !  which  fortifies  both  the  mind  and 
the  body. 

My  next  learned  theory  was,  that  nature  loves  herself; 
and,  in  sickness,  requires,  in  many  cases,  only  a  little  aid 
to  enable  her  so  to  exert  her  powers  as  to  produce  the  de- 
sired effect.  The  most  simple  prescriptions,  if  efficient, 
are  always  the  best.  Powerful  remedies  tend  to  disorgan- 
ize the  most  subtle  functions  of  the  animal  economy;  and 
by  curing  one  disease  to  produce  a  complication  of  many 
others. 

But  I  would  not  call  in  question  the  importance  of  the 
profession  of  medicine.  As  to  its  station  in  the  catalogue 
of  sciences,  it  ranks  among  the  very  first.  This  profession 
presents  to  the  human  mind  the  most  extensive  field  for 
investigation.  The  great  science  of  physiology  is  its 
basis;  and  chymistry,  the  wonderful  magician,  by  whom 


260  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

the  constituent  parts  of  matter  are  ascertained,  the  effects 
of  their  various  combinations  discovered,  and  the  pro- 
duction of  new  qualities  realized.  The  physician  should 
be,  emphatically,  a  child  of  nature,  and  well  acquainted 
with  the  principles  of  her  government,  both  with  respect 
to  mind  and  matter. 

Upon  the  western  rivers  a  great  many  boatmen  die,  and 
their  graves  upon  the  banks  are  numerous;  hence  those 
who  are  taken  sick  are,  generally,  much  alarmed. 

The  boatmen  of  the  west  are  conspicuous  for  their 
habits  of  intemperance,  and  swearing.  Whilst  on  the 
western  rivers  my  ears  were  shocked  by  their  oaths  and 
curses.  I  endeavoured  to  lessen  this  practice.  To  effect 
my  object  I,  occasionally,  associated  with  them ;  and  by  a 
kind,  free,  and  yet  grave  manner,  prepared  the  way  for 
some  friendly  counsel  upon  the  subject.  They  saw  that 
I  did  not  feel  above  their  labours,  or  their  modes  of  living. 
—  I  fully  participated  in  their  hard  fare;  slept  across 
flour  [157]  barrels,  without  bed  or  covering,  drank  water 
from  the  river,  and  sometimes  laboured  at  their  oars. 
Thus  I  gained  their  confidence  and  their  good  will. 

At  one  time,  during  the  silence  of  evening,  I  addressed 
about  twenty  boatmen  upon  the  subject  of  swearing.  I 
represented  the  practice  as  not  only  wicked,  but  idle,  low, 
and  unmanly.  They  heard  me  with  attention,  some  of 
them  made  many  acknowledgments,  and  whilst  I  con- 
tinued with  them,  they  swore  little  or  none.  Upon  many 
other  occasions  I  spake  to  boatmen  upon  the  subject ;  and 
from  their  manner,  I  have  no  doubt  that  the  practice  of 
swearing  among  them  might  be  rendered  less  common. 
But,  perhaps,  there  is  no  habit,  the  controul  of  which  de- 
pends less  upon  the  will  than  that  of  swearing.  The 
tongue  is  a  little  member,  and  often  moves  ere  the  judg- 
ment can  controul  the  impulses  of  the  heart.  A  pretty  lad, 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  261 

in  one  of  the  western  boats,  attracted  my  attention,  both 
by  his  beauty  and  his  profaneness.  After  speaking  to 
him  upon  the  subject,  I  offered  him  a  dollar  upon  the  con- 
dition of  his  not  swearing  for  the  remainder  of  the  day. 
He  was  much  pleased  with  the  proposition ;  but  after  con- 
trouling  himself  with  much  watchfulness,  for  about  an 
hour,  he  became  discouraged,  and  partially  returned  to 
his  long  established  practice.  Let  those,  who  are  so  happy 
as  to  be  free  from  this  vice,  guard  against  the  subtle  influ- 
ences of  its  example. 

As  to  intemperance,  I  think  it  is  by  no  means  peculiar, 
even  in  degree,  to  this  part  of  the  country.  But  I  am 
happy  in  being  able  to  add,  that  during  a  tour  which  I 
took  through  the  middle  and  southern  states  in  1815;  and 
also  during  that,  an  account  of  which  I  am  now  writing,  I 
witnessed  much  less  intemperance  than  information  pre- 
viously obtained  had  led  me  to  anticipate.  Still,  there  is, 
in  the  [158]  United  States,  much  inebriation,  and  a  great 
want  of  economy  in  the  use  of  spirituous  liquors.  By  the 
distillery  of  grain  among  us,  the  community  are,  some- 
times, deprived  of  the  necessary  quantity  of  bread ;  and  a 
substitute  is  furnished  which  tends,  at  once,  to  beggar,  and 
to  depopulate  the  country. 

Before  I  dismiss  these  topics,  I  may  add,  that  I  have 
often  heard  of  the  low  conversation,  which  is  said  to  pre- 
vail among  the  boatmen  of  the  west;  and  also  of  their 
quarrelsome  and  righting  habits.  All  these  practices  are 
much  less  than  they  are  represented  to  be. 

Here  I  may  be  permitted  to  observe,  that  with  respect 
to  low  conversation,  many  who  call  themselves  gentlemen, 
and  pass  for  such  in  the  world,  are  highly  culpable.  Inde- 
cency is  a  vice  committed  without  temptation.  It  cor- 
rupts the  moral  sense,  and  deprives  the  human  heart  of 
all  those  etherial  visitations,  which  remind  man  of  his 


262  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

original  innocence,  and  eloquently  persuade  him  that 
there  are  pleasures  far  above  those  of  sense.  Indeed,  how 
evident  is  it,  that  when  we  cultivate  pure  and  upright 
affections,  the  blessed  spirits  of  truth  and  peace  visit  our 
hearts,  enlarge  our  views  of  moral  nature,  and  tell  us  of 
nameless  hopes.  The  infirmities  of  man  would  add  an 
interest  to  human  nature,  if  they  were  not  voluntarily  dis- 
played. When  covered  with  the  mantle  of  an  amiable 
and  sensible  delicacy,  they  blend  the  ideas  of  weakness  and 
suffering  here,  with  perfection  and  immortality  hereafter. 

That  part  of  the  state  of  Virginia  which  lies  on  the  Ohio, 
extends  from  about  forty  miles  below  Pittsburg  to  Great 
Sandy  River,  the  line  between  this  state  and  Kentucky. 
The  western  parts  of  Virginia  are  mountainous,  and  a  good 
grazing  country.  The  soil  below  the  mountains,  though 
not  [159]  rich,  is  well  calculated  for  the  growth  of  tobacco 
and  Indian  corn.  Many  of  the  ridges  of  land  in  this 
state  are  very  fertile;  particularly  the  Blue  Ridge. 

The  town  of  Wheeling,  in  Virginia,  is  situated  on  the 
Ohio,  twelve  miles  above  Grave  Creek;  and  on  this  creek 
is  a  celebrated  Indian  grave.106 

The  principal  rivers  and  creeks,  which  enter  the  Ohio 
from  this  state,  are  Charteer's,  Big  Grave,  Baker's,  Fish, 
and  Fishing  creek;  and  Little  Kenhawa,  Great  Kenhawa, 
and  the  Great  Sandy  River.107 

The  Great  Kenhawa  is  nearly  three  hundred  yards  wide 
at  its  junction  with  the  Ohio ;  but  its  rapids  are  numerous, 
and  its  navigation  very  difficult.  It  derives  its  sources, 
through  a  vast  tract  of  country,  from  the  Laurel  and  Alle- 
ghany  mountains  on  the  north-east,  from  the  Cumberland 

108  For  Wheeling,  see  A.  Michaux's  Travels,  note  15;  for  Grave  Creek,  see 
Cuming's  Tour,  volume  iv  of  our  series,  note  78. —  ED. 

107  For  Chartier  River,  see  Weiser's  Journal,  volume  i  of  our  series,  note  18; 
for  the  Little  and  Big  Kanawha,  see  Croghan's  Journals,  op.  cit.,  notes  98,  101; 
for  Fish  Creek,  see  Harris's  Journal,  volume  iii  of  our  series,  note  37. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  263 

mountains  on  the  west,  and  from  the  mountains  in  North 
Carolina  near  the  sources  of  the  Roanoke.  On  the  Great 
Kenhawa  are  inexhaustible  lead  mines. 

The  principal  source  of  the  Great  Sandy  River  is  in  the 
Cumberland  mountains.  Its  length  is  not  great ;  and  it  is 
navigable  for  loaded  batteaux  only  about  fifty  miles.  At 
its  mouth  it  is  about  sixty  yards  wide,  and  it  enters  the 
Ohio  opposite  to  Galliopolis.  This  place  was  settled  by  a 
company  of  French  emigrants;  but  in  1796  disease  and 
other  misfortunes  caused  them  to  abandon  the  establish- 
ment.108 

The  town  of  Steubenville,  in  the  state  of  Ohio,  extends 
for  a  considerable  distance  along  the  bank  of  the  river.109 
There  are  here  some  manufactories,  and  several  handsome 
dwelling-houses.  Its  situation  is  considerably  elevated, 
and  here  and  there  are  some  large  trees  which  were  spared 
from  the  forest. 

The  first  principal  river  which  enters  the  Ohio,  and 
which  finds  its  source  in  that  state  is  the  Muskingum. 
This  river  is  situated  about  one  hundred  [160]  and  seventy 
miles  below  Pittsburg,  and  is,  at  its  confluence  with  the 
Ohio,  nearly  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide.  It  is 
navigable  for  large  batteaux  to  a  place  called  the  Three 
Legs,110  one  hundred  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  for  small 

108  A  brief  account  of jGallipolis  may  be  found  in  F.  A.  Michaux's  Travels, 
volume  iii  of  our  series,  pp.  182-185.  The  settlement  was  not  entirely  aban- 
doned.— ED. 

10*  See  Cuming's  Tour,  volume  iv  of  our  series,  note  67,  for  the  early  history 
of  Steubenville. —  ED. 

110  Three  Legs  town,  so  called  from  a  famous  Delaware  Indian,  was  situated 
at  the  junction  of  Tuscarawas  Creek  and  the  Muskingum,  near  the  site  of  the 
present  Coshocton. 

The  portage  path  from  the  Cuyahoga  to  the  Tuscarawas'4branch  of  the  Mus- 
kingum, a  distance  of  eight  miles,  is  probably  one  of  the  oldest  highways  in 
the  West,  having  been  the  route  of  the  buffaloes  across  the  summit  of  the  state. 
It  formed  part  of  the  Indian  boundary  line  in  the  treaties  of  Fort  Mclntosh 
(1785),  Fort  Hannar  (1789),  and  Fort  Wayne  (1795).  A  road  built  between 


264  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

ones  to  its  source,  which  is  within  seven  miles  of  the  Cay- 
ahoga.  The  Muskingum  presents  a  gentle  appearance, 
and  near  its  banks  there  are  valuable  salt  springs,  and  con- 
siderable quantities  of  coal  and  free  stone. 

The  town  of  Marietta  is  situated  on  the  east  of  the 
junction  of  the  Ohio  and  Muskingum.111  Its  position  is 
pleasant;  but  it  has  a  deserted  aspect,  and  is  rapidly  de- 
clining. It  is  not  true,  that  the  Muskingum  is  not  subject 
to  inundations.  All  the  banks  of  the  western  river  are, 
more  or  less,  exposed  to  freshets;  and  this  circumstance 
considerably  lessens  the  value  of  the  lands  and  buildings 
upon  them.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Muskingum  stands  Fort 
Harmer. 

The  Hockhocking  is  rather  smaller  than  the  Muskin- 
gum, and  is  situated  about  twenty-five  miles  below  the 
latter.112  On  the  banks  of  this  river  are  quarries  of  free 
stone,  iron  and  lead  mines,  pit-coal,  and  salt  springs. 
There  are  some  fine  lands  on  both  of  these  rivers. 

The  town  of  Athens  lies  on  the  Hockhocking,  about 
forty  miles  from  the  Ohio.  It  is  pleasantly  situated,  and 
is  the  seat  of  the  Ohio  University. 

The  River  Scioto  is  even  larger  than  the  Muskingum. 
It  is  navigable  nearly  two  hundred  miles,  and  is  connected 
with  the  river  Sandusky,  which  enters  Lake  Erie,  by  a  port- 
age of  four  miles.  On  the  Scioto,  about  one  hundred  miles 
from  the  Ohio,  is  the  town  of  Chilicothe.113  This  place  is 
the  seat  of  government.  Not  far  from  the  Scioto,  are  salt 

these  two  streams  in  1898,  followed  almost  exactly  this  old  portage  trail.  See 
Hulbert,  "Indian  Thoroughfares  of  Ohio,"  in  Ohio  Archaeological  and  His- 
torical Society  Publications,  volume  viii. —  ED. 

111  For  the  early  history  of  Marietta  and  Fort  Harmar,  see  A.  Michaux's 
Travels,  volume  iii  of  our  series,  note  16. —  ED. 

1U  On  the  Hockhocking  River,  consult  Croghan's  Journals,  volume  i  of  our 
series,  note  99. —  ED. 

m  For  a  brief  account  of  Chillicothe,  see  F.  A.  Michaux's  Travels,  volume 
iii  of  our  series,  note  35. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  265 

springs,  which  belong  to  the  state;  also  coal,  free  stone, 
and  several  kinds  of  valuable  clay. 

[161]  The  town  of  Cincinnati m  is  situated  on  the  east  of 
the  Great  Miami,  near  its  junction  with  the  Ohio.  This 
town  is  pleasantly  situated,  and  presents  the  appearance 
of  much  business.  It  is  a  very  flourishing  place.  There 
are  several  manufactories  here,  one  of  which  is  situated 
at  the  foot  of  the  bank,  and  is  eight  or  ten  stories  high. 

In  Cincinnati  is  situated  Fort  Washington.  This  is  the 
first  of  that  chain  of  forts  which  extends  west.  On  the 
eastern  branch  of  the  Great  Miami  is  Fort  St.  Clair;  and 
on  the  western  branches  Forts  Jefferson  and  Greenville. 
On  the  river  Calumet,  which  enters  the  Wabash,  stands 
fort  Recovery;  and  just  above  this  fort  is  the  place  of  St. 
Clair's  defeat.115 

The  Great  Miami  is  the  boundary  of  the  state  of  Ohio 
on  the  river  of  this  name.  The  Great  Miami  is  about  three 
hundred  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  interlocks  with  the 
Scioto,  above  Chilicothe.  One  of  its  branches  runs  within 
four  miles  of  the  Miami  of  the  Lake,  and  within  seven 
miles  of  the  Sandusky.  The  bed  of  the  Great  Miami  is 
stony,  and  its  current  rapid.  Just  above  its  mouth  is  fort 
Hamilton. 

114  Regarding  the  early  history  of  Cincinnati,  see  Coming's  Tow,  volume 
'v  of  our  series,  note  166. —  ED. 

m  Fort  Washington  —  afterwards  within  the  limits  of  Cincinnati  —  was 
established  (1789)  by  Major  Doughty  opposite  the  mouth  of  the'.Lacking  River, 
to  protect  the  frontier  from  the  Indians.  Generals  Harmar,  St.  Clair,  and 
Wayne  used  it  as  headquarters  in  conducting  their  Indian  campaigns. 

About  sixty-five  miles  north  of  Cincinnati,  St.  Clair  built  Fort  Jefferson  (1791) 
as  a  base  of  operations  during  his  Indian  campaign. 

Fort  St.  Clair  was  a  stockade  built  by  the  general  of  that  name  in  the  winter 
of  1791-92  to  keep  communication  open  between  Fort  Jefferson  and  the  Ohio 
River. 

For  Fort  Greenville,  see  Buttrick's  Voyages,  ante,  note  32.  After  construct- 
ing Fort  Greenville,  Wayne  sent  a  detachment  to  the  scene  of  St.  Clair's  de- 
feat, twenty-three  miles  to  the  north,  where  they  established  Fort  Recovery, 
December,  1793. —  ED. 


266  Early  Western  Trawls  [Vol.  8 

There  are  many  small  creeks  and  towns  near  the  Ohio, 
which  in  my  course  I  saw  and  visited;  but  which  furnish 
no  interesting  materials  for  remark.  Besides,  I  am  not 
writing  a  Gazetteer;  and  with  geography,  my  fellow-citi- 
zens are  well  acquainted. 

I  may  here  speak,  as  I  promised,  upon  the  probable 
course  of  the  seasons  in  the  west.  I  am  much  inclined  to 
believe,  that  the  cold  seasons,  which  the  people  of  New- 
England  have  for  many  years  experienced,  and  which  have 
so  much  injured  the  interests  of  agriculture  among  us,  are 
passing  off  to  the  west;  and  that  the  people  of  the  west 
will,  for  several  years,  experience  seasons  less  favourable 
than  usual.  My  opinion  is  founded  upon  the  facts,  that  for 
the  two  last  years  we  have  experienced  more  favourable 
[162]  seasons,  and  the  people  of  the  west  less  favourable 
ones,  in  the  same  comparative  proportions.  This  is  a  good 
criterion  by  which  to  form  an  opinion  upon  the  subject. 
The  change  of  seasons  in  both  sections  of  the  country  prove 
and  corroborate  each  other. 

The  spring  and  summer  of  1817  were,  with  us,  less  un- 
favourable than  usual.  The  hopes  of  our  farmers,  and 
of  those  who  depend  for  a  sufficiency  of  provisions  upon 
an  abundant  market,  were  considerably  revived ;  and  this 
year  we  have  experienced  something  like  a  good  old-fash- 
ioned season.  The  golden  ears  of  corn,  more  beautiful 
than  the  productions  of  the  richest  mines,  have  again 
brightened  our  fields,  and  cheered  our  hearts.  Had  un- 
genial  seasons  continued  much  longer,  this  part  of  the 
country  would  have  become  impoverished  and  depopu- 
lated:—  people  were  going  down  into  Egypt  for  bread. 

Last  year  the  seed  time  and  harvest  of  the  west  were  un- 
favourable; and  the  spring  of  1818  was  in  the  highest  de- 
gree unpromising.  In  the  western  parts  of  Virginia,  where 
the  climate  is,  usually,  warmer  than  on  the  east  of  the 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  267 

mountains;  and  in  the  states  of  Ohio,  Kentucky,  &c. 
planting  time  this  year  was  very  backward.  When,  ac- 
cording to  the  usual  course  of  the  seasons,  it  was  time  for 
corn  to  appear  above  the  surface  of  the  ground,  ploughing 
had  not  commenced.  Some  of  the  farmers  asserted,  that 
the  season  was  even  later  than  the  spring  before  by  five  or 
six  weeks. 

During  the  month  of  May,  the  weather  in  the  west  was 
cold  and  windy.  On  the  3d  of  this  month  the  birds  were 
assembling  for  a  more  southern  climate.  They  were  so 
chilled  that  I  caught  many  of  them  without  difficulty;  and 
others  of  them  perished  in  the  night.  The  season  for  the 
commencement  of  [163]  vegetation  here  is  probably  four 
weeks  earlier  than  in  New-Hampshire. 

Until  my  arrival  at  New-Orleans  the  weather,  generally, 
was  cold  and  dry;  and  even  here  the  wind  was  frequently 
cool.  About  the  middle  of  May  I  experienced  frost  in 
Kentucky;  and  near  the  Mississippi  the  cotton,  much  later 
than  this,  was  in  a  wretched  state.  In  Tennessee,  hereto- 
fore remarkable  for  the  excellence  of  its  cotton,  this  article, 
for  two  years  past,  has  been  rapidly  degenerating.  The 
severity  of  the  last  winter  even  in  New-Orleans,  was  unpar- 
alleled. The  streets  there  were  covered  with  ice  suffi- 
ciently hard  to  bear  loaded  waggons. 

Should  Heaven  favour  the  New-England  states  with 
good  seasons,  no  country  in  the  world  would  be  preferable 
to  it.  Our  unfavourable  seasons  have  taught  us  our  de- 
pendence upon  that  Being,  "who  prepareth  rain  for  the 
earth,  and  maketh  grass  to  grow  upon  the  mountains." 

I  am  of  opinion,  that  for  some  years  to  come,  our 
seasons  will  be  remarkably  fruitful.  The  earth  here  has, 
for  a  considerable  time,  been  acquiring  strength,  which  has 
not  been  called  forth;  and  having  been  accustomed  to  cool 
seasons,  warm  ones,  operating  upon  this  new  acquisition 


268  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

of  vegetative  power,  will  cause  an  extraordinary  impetus 
in  the  soil. 

I  have  spoken  of  our  bright  Indian  harvest.  The  corn 
of  the  west  is  much  inferior  to  ours.  Growing  upon  a  rank 
soil,  its  production  is  rapid,  and  the  kernel  is  large  and  un- 
substantial. Indian  meal  is  seldom  used  in  the  west,  ex- 
cepting for  cattle;  and  very  few  persons  there  are  ac- 
quainted with  the  Yankee  mode  of  making  Indian  cakes. 
Being  fond  of  this  coarse  bread,  I  frequently,  during  my 
tour,  instructed  the  gentle  dames  of  the  west  in  this  New- 
England  custom.  But  in  many  cases,  after  waiting  [164] 
an  hour  for  my  repast,  I  was  deprived  of  most  of  it  by  the 
fondness  of  the  children  of  the  house  for  this  new  dish; 
and  in  one  instance  the  kind  mother  could  get  rid  of  them 
only  by  knocking  them  under  the  table  as  fast  as  they 
would  come  up. 

The  variety  of  birds  which  I  saw  in  the  western  woods 
excited  much  interest.  Many  species  entirely  new  to  me 
made  their  appearance.  Some  of  them  were  very  beauti- 
ful. Many  of  these  birds  being  common  in  the  South  of 
Europe,  proves  that  the  climate  of  the  west  is  mild ;  and  the 
spontaneous  growth  of  hops  and  grapes  here  speak  favour- 
ably of  its  soil. 

Fruit  trees,  particularly  peach  and  apple,  flourish  well 
in  Ohio;  but  a  more  northern  climate  is  more  peculiarly 
calculated  for  the  latter. 

The  western  country  is  exceedingly  well  adapted  to  the 
growth  of  hemp ;  both  as  it  respects  its  climate,  and  its  ex- 
tensive levels  of  deep  and  rich  mould.  This  advantage, 
and  the  abundance  of  excellent  ship  timber,  and  iron, 
which  its  forests  and  hills  produce,  would  enable  it  to 
furnish  for  the  market  the  finest  ships.  The  black  walnut 
here  is  said  to  be  as  durable  as  the  live  oak;  and  the  frames 
of  vessels  built  upon  the  western  waters,  are  frequently 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  269 

made  of  this  wood.  There  is  here  too,  an  abundance  of 
excellent  yellow  pine,  suitable  for  masts  and  spars.  These, 
with  many  other  kinds  of  lumber,  are  rafted  and  floated 
down  the  rivers  to  New-Orleans,  and  there  sell  at  a  high 
price.  Upon  these  rafts  large  quantities  of  produce  are 
often  transported  to  the  same  place. 

The  produce  carried  down  to  this  vast  market  consists, 
principally,  of  flour,  corn,  pork,  beef,  bacon,  venison,  flax, 
whiskey,  lumber,  and  live  stock,  particularly  horses.  The 
foreign  goods  received  into  the  western  states,  lying  on 
the  Mississippi  and  [165]  Ohio,  and  their  principal  sources, 
come,  as  has  been  observed,  from  Philadelphia  and  Balti- 
more, by  the  way  of  Pittsburg.  This  place  is  the  great 
depot  for  the  supply  of  all  places  below  it.  Foreign  goods 
to  a  large  amount  are  also  brought  from  New- Orleans; 
and  some  from  Virginia,  by  the  way  of  Richmond. 

In  speaking  of  large  vessels  on  the  Ohio,  I  may  add, 
that  ships  of  large  tonnage  have  been  built  on  this  river, 
laden  for  the  West-Indies,  and  there  sold,  both  vessel  and 
cargo.  A  person  in  Europe,  unacquainted  with  the  geog- 
raphy of  our  western  waters,  would  be  astonished  to 
see,  in  the  Atlantic  ocean,  a  large  vessel,  freighted  with 
country  produce,  which  was  built  and  laden  at  Pitts- 
burgh, between  two  and  three  thousand  miles  from  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico. 

How  wonderfully  impressive  is  the  prospect,  which  this 
country  presents  to  the  politician,  during  his  cogitations 
upon  our  remote  destinies!  Every  thing  is  conspiring  to 
render  the  United  States  far  more  populous  than  Europe. 
In  the  course  of  a  few  hundred  years  all  that  is  great,  and 
splendid  will  characterize  us. —  The  arts  of  Greece,  the 
arms  of  Rome,  the  pride  of  England  will  be  ours.  May 
God  avert  the  rest! 

Whilst  on  the  Ohio,  I  was  pleased  with  the  appearance 


270  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

of  the  floating  grist-mill  used  on  this  river.  This  kind  of 
mill  is  supported  by  two  boats,  and  the  wheel  moves  be- 
tween them.  The  boats  move  both  up  and  down  the  river, 
and  when  employment  can  be  obtained,  they  are  placed  in 
the  strongest  current  near  the  shore,  and  the  mill  is  set  in 
motion.  Here  there  is  no  tax  for  ground  rent,  mill-dam, 
or  race. 

In  speaking  of  mills,  I  may  advert  to  one  which  I  saw 
in  Indiana,  and  which  excited  some  interest.  As  I  was 
one  day  passing  through  a  wood,  near  a  [166]  small  log 
building,  I  heard  a  singular  noise  in  the  latter,  and  had  the 
curiosity  to  look  in.  There  was  here  a  grist-mill  moved 
by  a  horse,  and  attended  by  a  little  boy  about  nine  years  of 
age.  The  horse  draws  upon  a  stable  fixed  in  a  post ;  but 
making  no  progress,  he  pushes  back  with  his  feet  the  plat- 
form upon  which  he  stands,  and  which  is  of  a  circular 
form.  Through  the  centre  of  this  platform  there  is  a  post 
fixed  in  the  ground.  The  walking  of  the  horse  sets  the 
machinery  in  motion.  The  cogs,  the  wallower,  the  trunnel- 
head,  and  the  stones  operated  pretty  much  in  the  usual 
way.  The  Lilliputian  miller  displayed  all  the  airs  and 
importance  so  common  to  the  managers  of  such  noisy  es- 
tablishments. 

In  the  state  of  Ohio,  and  in  other  places  in  the  west,  are 
some  natural  curiosities,  with  respect  to  which  I  must  not 
be  silent;  but  as  I  can  probably  throw  no  light  upon  the 
mystery  in  which  they  are  involved,  my  remarks  upon 
them  will  be  brief. 

As  to  the  bones  of  animals  which  have  been  found  at  the 
Licks,  particularly  at  that  called  the  Big  Bone,11'  I  think 
there  can  be  no  doubt,  that  they  are  those  of  animals  which, 
from  a  variety  of  causes,  have  perished  there.  Animals  in 

118  For  the  Big  Bone  Lick,  see  Croghan's  Journals,  volume  i  of  our  series, 
note  104. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  271 

the  west  were  once  very  numerous,  and,  no  doubt,  vast 
herds  of  buffalo,  elk,  deer,  and  even  the  mammoth  re- 
sorted thither.  Probably  many  of  them  fell  into  these 
licks,  either  by  accident,  by  contention,  or  by  their  eager- 
ness to  get  to  the  salt,  and  were  thus  destroyed.  Some  too 
probably  killed  themselves  by  the  quantity  of  salt  water 
which  they  drank;  and  where  such  vast  numbers  were  con- 
stantly assembling,  many  must  have  died  in  consequence 
of  disease  and  old  age. 

Much  less  plausible  suppositions  can  be  suggested  rel- 
ative to  the  vast  mounds  and  walls  of  earth  in  the  west; 
the  former  of  which,  it  is  said,  contain  human  bones. 

[167]  It  may  be  presumed  that  these  walls  were  erected 
for  the  purpose  of  defence.  It  is  well  known  that  savage 
tribes  wage  with  each  other  the  most  destructive  wars. 
Some  of  the  tribes  of  North  America  have  distinguished 
themselves  by  their  blood-thirsty  and  exterminating  dis- 
position. The  Iroquois  were  once  the  terror  of  all  the 
neighbouring  tribes.  By  their  hostile  and  ferocious  spirit 
many  of  these  tribes  became  nearly  extinct.  Of  the  Nado- 
naicks  only  four  cabins  or  families  remained.  The  Puans 
too,  were  not  less  formidable  and  fierce  than  the  Iroquois. 
They  violated  every  humane  principle.  The  very  name 
of  stranger  embittered  them.  They  supposed  themselves 
invincible,  and  persecuted  and  destroyed  every  tribe 
whom  they  could  discover.  There  were  other  tribes  sim- 
ilarly disposed. 

Now  it  may  be  supposed,  that  the  tribes  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  those  whose  object  it  was  to  exterminate  all 
other  tribes,  would  assemble  for  mutual  defence.  Coali- 
sions  of  this  kind  are  not  unfrequent  among  savages. 
Further:  nothing  would  be  more  natural  than  for  savages, 
thus  situated,  to  erect  fortifications  of  trees  and  earth,  for 
the  purpose  of  securing  themselves  against  the  common 


272  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

enemy.  Such  a  principle  of  self-defence  would  be  nat- 
ural, and,  of  course,  universal. 

As  to  the  mounds  of  earth,  supposed  to  contain  human 
bones,  it  may  be  observed,  that  several  tribes  of  Indians 
may  have  combined  and  fortified  themselves  against  their 
enemies;  and  in  this  situation  they  may  have  been  con- 
quered and  destroyed.  It  is  well  known,  that  in  Indian 
battles  there  is  no  quarter  given.  The  dead  bodies  of  sev- 
eral thousand  persons  thrown  together  and  covered  with 
earth,  would  make  a  vast  heap.  But  even  supposing  that 
the  enemy  had  not  prevailed,  famine,  contagious  [168]  dis- 
eases, or  even  ordinary  causes  of  death,  would,  among  a 
great  assemblage  of  people,  produce,  in  a  short  time,  a 
sufficient  number  of  bodies  to  make  on  the  surface  of  the 
earth  a  vast  mound.  Covering  the  dead  with  mounds  of 
earth  instead  of  digging  graves  for  them,  might  not  only 
be  found  convenient,  under  certain  circumstances,  but  is 
a  custom  peculiar  to  the  aborigines  of  America. 

The  finding  of  one  or  two  pieces  of  ancient  coin  in  the 
west  has  occasioned  much  speculation.  A  copper  coin, 
bearing  Persian  characters,  has,  it  is  said,  been  found  on 
the  banks  of  the  Little  Miami  river. 

It  is  well  known,  that  mankind  are  naturally  itinerant ; 
and  that  they  carry  with  them  their  goods,  especially  those 
which  are  portable,  and  which  they  highly  value.  A  piece 
of  coin  possesses  both  of  these  qualities;  and  it  would  not 
be  more  strange  to  find  an  Asiatic  medal  in  North 
America,  than  to  find  here  an  Indian  of  Asiatic  origin. 

Our  first  parents  were  created  in  Asia;  and  the  rest  of 
mankind  descended  from  them.  By  emigrations  various 
distant  portions  of  the  world  have  been  settled.  Emi- 
gration was  an  act  of  necessity.  One  quarter  of  the 
world  could  not  have  contained  all  mankind;  and  the 
population  of  Asia  became,  in  time,  too  great.  Asia  is  at 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  273 

this  time  supposed  to  contain  five  hundred  millions  of 
people;  and  in  China,  such  is  the  excess  of  population,  that 
children  are  destroyed  by  their  parents,  with  as  little  cere- 
mony as  though  they  were  the  offspring  of  the  most  worth- 
less domestic  animals. 

It  is  to  be  presumed  that  the  Continent  of  North  America 
was  peopled  from  the  north-east  of  Asia.  In  no  other 
way  could  the  Western  Continent  have,  so  early,  become 
known.  The  north  is  not,  even  now,  known  beyond  the 
latitude  of  eighty-two;  and  [169]  with  respect  to  it  thus  far 
there  is  much  doubt.  The  eastern  and  western  continents 
may  be  connected  near  this  latitude;  and  in  this  direction 
the  aborigines  of  North  America  may  have  travelled  from 
the  former  to  the  latter.  Certain  it  is  that  the  water  be- 
tween the  north-east  of  Asia,  and  the  north-west  of  Amer- 
ica is  comparatively  shallow.  In  Bering's  Straits,  situated 
in  the  latitude  of  sixty-six,  there  are  many  islands;  the 
width  of  the  straits  is  only  about  fifty  miles,  and,  in  winter, 
the  passage  across  is  frozen. 

Even  here  the  eastern  and  western  continents,  were  per- 
haps, once  connected.  Such  an  idea  is  not  inconsistent 
either  with  the  nature  of  things,  or  with  analogy.  The 
earth  has  experienced,  from  time  to  time,  great  revolutions; 
and  Strabo,  an  ancient  and  celebrated  geographer,  speaks 
of  the  time  when  the  Mediterranean  Sea  did  not  exist. 
Why  may  not  the  two  great  continents  have  been  or  still 
be  united  as  well  as  those  of  Europe  and  Africa  ?  There 
is  in  the  north-east  of  Asia  much  more  evidence  of  its 
former  connection  with  the  north-west  of  America,  than 
there  is  of  a  similar  connection  between  Europe  and  Africa, 
inasmuch  as  the  water  between  the  former  is  unquestion- 
ably shallow;  and  between  the  latter  it  is  very  deep. 

Besides,  what  adds  great  weight  to  the  general  supposi- 
tion that  the  original  settlers  of  the  western  continent  emi- 


274  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

grated  from  the  north-east  of  Asia  is,  that  in  many  partic- 
ulars they  resemble  the  inhabitants  of  the  latter.  Many 
of  the  islands  of  Bering's  straits,  and  also  both  of  its  coasts, 
are  peopled ;  and  their  occupants  are  much  in  the  habit  of 
emigrating. 

The  original  inhabitants  of  South  America  were  prob- 
ably, the  descendants  of  the  aborigines  of  North  America; 
and  emigrated  from  the  latter  to  the  [i  70]  former  across  the 
Isthmus  of  Darien.  Nothing  is  more  natural  than  for 
people  to  emigrate  from  a  northern  to  a  southern  latitude; 
and  this  course  was,  no  doubt,  taken,  in  a  greater  or  less 
degree,  by  all  the  original  inhabitants  of  North  America. 
All  the  North  American  Indians,  with  whom  we  are  ac- 
quainted, excepting  the  Esquimeaux,  now  reside  south  of 
their  supposed  track  from  the  eastern  to  the  western  conti- 
nent. 

In  South  America,  as  in  other  warm  countries,  the  modes 
of  living  become  more  refined  than  in  climates  further 
north;  and  in  the  history  of  the  former  we  see  the 
same  diversity  of  character  as  existed  hi  North  America. 
Many  of  the  tribes  of  the  north  might  have  been  compared 
with  the  Peruvians  of  the  south,  a  mild  and  inoffensive 
people;  and  the  Iroquois  and  Puans  of  the  former,  with 
the  Chilians  and  Caribs  of  the  latter. 

As  to  Persian  coin  being  found  in  North  America, 
it  is  not  more  surprising  than  the  finding  of  Roman  coin 
in  Great  Britain.  The  same  effect  may  arise  from  differ- 
ent causes.  It  was  probably,  not  more  easy  for  Julius 
Caesar  to  invade  Britain,  than  for  the  Asiatics  to  emigrate 
to  North  America. 

In  dismissing  this  subject  I  may  observe,  that  all  the 
accounts  from  the  west  are  not  to  be  immediately  credited. 
Many,  to  please  their  fancies,  and  more,  to  fill  their  purses, 
speak  hyperbolically  respecting  it.  A  great  man  who 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  275 

prided  himself  upon  his  penetration,  once  being  questioned 
as  to  the  causes  of  some  supposed  appearance  in  nature, 
assumed  a  wise  phiz,  and  deeply  reasoned  upon  the  sub- 
ject. Stop,  my  friend,  said  the  quizzer,  had  you  not 
better  first  inquire  as  to  the  matter  of  fact  ? 

After  passing  Great  Sandy  River,  which  is  a  boundary 
line  between  Virginia  and  Kentucky,  I  entered  this  state. 
The  general  aspect  of  the  country  [171]  here  is  nearly  level. 
Near  the  Ohio,  however,  for  fifteen  or  twenty  miles,  the 
country  is  broken,  hilly,  and  even  mountainous.  In 
clambering  some  of  these  mountains  I  experienced  consid- 
erable fatigue.  They  are  so  steep,  that  one  can  ascend 
them  only  by  taking  hold  of  the  bushes  on  their  sides. 

There  are  in  Kentucky  scarcely  any  swamps  or  very  low 
lands.  The  soil  of  the  levels  is  rather  thin;  but  on  the 
swells  and  ridges  the  soil  is  exceedingly  fertile.  A  bed  of 
limestone  exists,  five  or  six  feet  below  the  surface,  through- 
out the  principal  part  of  the  state.  In  consequence  of  this 
circumstance  its  springs,  in  a  dry  season,  soon  become 
exhausted.  This  state  is  inferior  to  all  others,  with 
respect  to  mill  privileges,  inasmuch  as  very  few  of  its 
streams  stand  the  usual  drought  of  autumn. 

This  state  furnishes,  in  the  greatest  abundance,  all  the 
articles  which  the  State  of  Ohio  produces.  It  raises,  be- 
sides the  ordinary  objects  of  agriculture,  vast  quantities 
of  hemp,  and  considerable  tobacco.  Several  millions  of 
pounds  of  maple  sugar  are  made  here  annually;  and  the 
woods  of  this  state  feed  immense  droves  of  swine.  The 
rivers  abound  with  fish,  and  the  cane  brakes  support  herds 
of  deer. 

In  travelling  through  some  of  those  thickets,  I  was 
impressed  with  a  high  idea  of  the  luxuriance  of  the 
soil.  Indeed,  the  general  aspect  of  the  country  here 
evinces  great  fertility  of  soil,  and  mildness  of  climate.  In 


276  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

this  state  grow  the  coffee,  papaw,  hackberry,  and  cucum- 
ber tree;  also  the  honey  locust,  mulberry,  and  buck  eye. 
Many  accounts  respecting  the  fruitfulness  of  Kentucky 
are,  no  doubt,  exaggerated;  but  it  is,  in  fact,  an  abundant 
and  delightful  country.  For  my  own  part,  however,  I  pre- 
fer, to  its  rich  levels,  the  echoing  hills  of  New-Hampshire. 

[172]  As  this  part  of  the  country  abounds  with  interesting 
vegetation,  I  may  here  make  a  reflection  or  two  upon 
botany.  How  infinite  is  the  vegetable  kingdom!  and 
how  far  beyond  expression  is  the  variety  and  beauty  of  her 
hues!  these  tints  are  heavenly;  and  the  pencil  of  nature 
has  displayed  them  to  render  man  heavenly-minded. 
How  wonderful  too,  are  the  affections  and  sympathies  of 
plants!  Here  the  poet  finds  an  exhaustless  source  of 
imagery,  and  here  every  vicissitude  of  life  may  select  its 
appropriate  emblem. 

The  whole  of  the  north-westerly  parts  of  Kentucky  is 
bound  by  the  river  Ohio.  A  small  part  of  it  lies  on  the 
Mississippi;  and  this  river,  so  far,  is  its  western  boundary. 
Tennessee  lies  south  of  it.  The  principal  rivers  in  Ken- 
tucky which  enter  the  Ohio  are  Sandy,  Kentucky,  Cum- 
berland, and  Tennessee.  The  sources  of  these  rivers  are 
very  numerous,  and  in  proceeding  to  the  Ohio  fertilize  a 
vast  tract  of  rich  country.  The  Tennessee  passes  through 
a  small  part  of  Kentucky.  The  Cumberland  runs  into 
Tennessee,  and  then  extends  through  a  considerable  part 
of  Kentucky  in  an  east  and  west  direction.  Its  principal 
sources  are  in  the  Cumberland  mountains.  This  river 
furnishes  every  material  for  ship-building;  and  during  the 
rainy  season  can  float  vessels  of  the  largest  size.  Nash- 
ville,117 in  Tennessee,  lies  up  this  river;  and  much  business 
is  transacted  between  this  place,  Pittsburg,  and  New-Or- 

117  An  account  of  the  early  history  of  Nashville  is  given  in  A.  Michaux's 
Travels,  volume  iii  of  our  series,  note  103. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  277 

leans.  The  river  is  navigable  without  any  obstruction,  for 
five  hundred  miles,  and  is,  at  its  mouth,  about  three  hun- 
dred yards  wide. 

On  the  banks  of  Kentucky  river  are  many  precipices, 
some  of  which  are  three  or  four  hundred  feet  high.  In 
these  precipices  may  be  seen  much  limestone,  and  some 
fine  white  marble.  This  river  is  about  two  hundred  miles 
in  length,  and  in  width  [173]  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards. 
In  this  state  are  many  celebrated  salt-springs.  Its  iron 
ore  is  of  a  very  inferior  quality;  and  its  caves  and  other 
natural  curiosities  are  highly  interesting.  Lexington,  the 
capital  of  Kentucky,  is  an  elegant  and  polished  place.11* 

Many  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  state  emigrated  from 
every  part  of  the  United  States,  and  from  most  of  the 
countries  of  Europe.  A  great  many  of  them  came  from 
Virginia;  and,  unfortunately  for  our  common  country, 
they  brought  with  them  their  slaves.  What  a  source  of 
regret  is  it,  that  Kentucky  did  not  prohibit,  within  her 
jurisdiction,  the  bondage  of  these  friendless  beings!  A 
sense  of  propriety,  and  a  regard  for  the  reputation,  and 
true  interests  of  the  United  States,  should  have  taught  the 
guardians  of  her  public  weal  to  wash  their  hands  from 
this  foul  stain.  The  first  settlers  of  this  state  found  them- 
selves in  a  land  where  all  was  nature,  and  all  was  liberty. 
The  rivers  poured  their  unrestrained  tribute,  the  winds 
blew  where  they  listed,  the  earth  teamed,  the  birds  flew, 
the  fish  leaped,  the  deer  bounded  over  the  hills,  and  the 
savage  knew  no  master.  Enviable  situation!  But  the 
scene  is  marred.  There,  human  beings  toil  and  sweat 
under  the  lash  of  a  task-master.  It  is  said  that  slaves  are 
treated  well!  They  are, —  and  ittl  A  slave  is  a  slave,  in 
spite  of  all  the  logic  of  avarice,  indolence,  and  purse-proud 
humanity.  Power  creates  tyranny;  and  in  the  hands  of  a 

111  For  an  account  of  Lexington,  see  A.  Michaux's  Travels,  note  61. —  ED. 


278  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

tyrant  no  man  is  safe.  The  sufferings  of  the  slave,  even  in 
the  United  States,  are  sufficient  to  sink  any  country  into 
perdition.  A  record  of  them  would  make  us  run  mad 
with  shame.  Ask  the  mother  how  she  fared,  both  before 
and  after  her  deliverance.  Ask  these  children  of  toil  what 
it  is  to  die  for  want  of  repose  ?  —  What  it  is  to  perish  under 
the  lash  ? 

[174]  Some  of  the  United  States  have,  in  their  constitu- 
tions, ^set  their  faces  against  this  unbecoming, —  this  odious 
practice.  Had  the  western  states  followed  the  example, 
the  evil  would  have  been,  principally,  confined  to  the 
southern  states;  and  these  states,  finding  that  upon  their 
shoulders  alone  rested  the  terrible  responsibility  involved 
in  the  subject,  would  have  applied  a  remedy.  The  evil  is 
now  spreading.  In  Kentucky, —  a  garden  planted  in  the 
wilderness, —  a  land,  where  liberty  dwelt  for  six  thousand 
years,  there  are  herds  of  slaves.  May  the  states,  which 
shall  hereafter  impress  their  stars  upon  the  banner  of  our 
union  and  our  glory,  guard  against  this  wretched  state  of 
things;  and  may  the  slave-holding  states,  ere  long,  make  a 
noble,  generous  patriotic,  and  humane  effort,  to  remove 
from  human  nature  this  yoke  of  bondage,  and  from  their 
country  this  humiliating  stigma! 

The  great,  but  inconsistent  Burk,  in  speaking  of  the 
southern  states  says,  that  the  planters  there,  seeing  the 
great  difference  between  themselves  and  their  slaves,  ac- 
quire, thereby,  the  spirit  of  liberty.  For  my  own  part, 
however,  I  should  think  this  circumstance  would  create  the 
fire  of  aristocracy,  which  prides  itself  in  power,  and  in  sub- 
jugation. 

There  are  many  towns  in  Kentucky,  which  lie  on  the 
Ohio,  the  principal  of  which  is  Louisville.  This  place  is 
situated  just  above  the  rapids  of  the  Ohio  and  near  Bear 
Grass  Creek.  Its  scite  is  commanding  and  pleasant,  its 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  279 

aspect  spacious,  and  it  contains  many  large  and  elegant 
buildings.  At  this  place  resides  the  intrepid  Colonel 
Croghan.119  Opposite  to  Louisville  the  river  Ohio  is  more 
than  a  mile  in  width.  Much  ship  building  is  carried  on 
here;  and  at  this  place  boats  and  vessels,  going  down  the 
river,  stop  for  a  pilot.  Ships  of  four  hundred  tons  have 
[175]  passed  down  the  rapids.  The  river  is,  generally, 
in  its  highest  state  between  February  and  April. 

Opposite  to  this  place,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Ohio,  is 
the  town  of  Jeffersonville;  and  two  miles  below,  on  the 
Kentucky  side,  is  a  small  place  called  Shippingport.1"  At 
this  place  boats,  bound  down  the  river,  generally  land  for 
the  purpose  of  leaving  the  pilot,  and  of  obtaining  informa- 
tion as  to  the  markets  below.  Near  the  rapids  is  situated 
Fort  Steuben.121 

The  road  from  Louisville  to  Shippingport  lies  on  the 
bank  of  the  river,  and  on  the  river  side  of  it  are  groves  of 
large  sycamore  trees.  Below  the  latter  place,  for  fifty 
miles,  the  river  is  truly  beautiful.  In  the  vicinity  of  Louis- 
ville are  some  noble  plantations.  Some  of  the  planters 

119  On  the  settlement  of  Louisville,  see  Croghan's  Journals,  volume  i  of  our 
series,  note  106. 

The  plantation  of  "Locust  Grove"  was  the  estate  ofj  William  Croghan, 
Colonel  George  Croghan's  father.  William  Croghan  (1752-1822)  came  to 
America  from  Ireland  when  quite  young,  and  embracing  the  American  cause, 
served  through  the  Revolutionary  War,  being  colonel  of  Neville's  Fourth  Vir- 
ginia regiment  in  the  battle  of  Monmouth.  He  settled  at  "Locust  Grove" 
soon  after  the  Revolution,  and  became  an  honored  and  respected  citizen  of 
Kentucky. —  ED. 

"°For  Jeffersonville,  see  Flint's  Letters,  volume  be  of  our  series;  for 
Shippingsport,  see  Cuming's  Tour,  volume  iv  of  our  series,  note  171. —  ED. 

111  Fort  Steuben  (at  first  called  Fort  Finney)  was  a  subordinate  post  erected 
in  1786  upon  the  grant  to  the  Illinois  regiment  not  far  from  Clarksville. 
From  1786  to  1790  Colonel  John  Armstrong  was  in  command.  It  was  aban- 
doned shortly  after  1791.  This  must  be  distinguished  from  the  fort  higher  up 
the  Ohio,  that  formed  the  nucleus  of  Steubenville.  Some  remains  of  the  old 
buildings  connected  with  the  former  fort  were  to  be  seen  as  late  as  the  middle 
of  the  nineteenth  century  in  Clark  County,  Indiana.  See  English,  Conquest 
of  the  Northwest  (Indianapolis,  1896),  ii,  p  863. —  ED 


280  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

here  sow  five  hundred  acres  with  wheat,  set  twenty  ploughs 
a-going  in  one  field,  keep  sixty  horses,  several  hundred 
negroes,  and  carry  on  distilling,  coopering,  and  other 
trades. 

A  few  miles  below  Cincinnati,  on  the  Kentucky  side  of 
the  river,  is  situated  the  plantation  of  the  late  General 
Pike.122  It  was  interesting  to  see  the  residence  of  this 
great  man.  He  was  a  true  patriot;  and  possessed  all  the 
hardihood  and  intrepidity  of  Charles  the  twelfth.  After 
serving  his  country  for  many  years,  and  acquiring  her  con- 
fidence and  love,  he  nobly  died  under  her  triumphant 
banners.  Among  a  free  and  virtuous  people,  the  fate  of 
one  brave  man  kindles  the  latent  spark  of  patriotism  in 
ten  thousand  hearts,  and  in  his  example,  they  find  inspir- 
ing lessons  of  courage  and  devotion. 

Limestone  is  situated  on  Limestone  Creek  in  Ken- 
tucky.123 This  is  a  pretty  considerable  place,  but  the  river 
has  so  far  encroached  upon  the  bank  upon  which  it  is  situ- 
ated, that  it,  probably,  will  fall  in  the  course  of  a  few  years. 
Indeed  I  believe,  that  this  will  ultimately  be  the  fate  of 
many  places  on  the  immediate  banks  of  the  Ohio.  Even 
Marietta,  and  [176]  Cincinnati,  are,  probably  candidates 
for  speedy  ruin.  I  should  not  be  surprised  to  hear  that 
the  very  next  freshet  had  produced  such  an  effect.  With 
respect  to  all  these  places,  the  abrasion  of  the  banks  is 

122  Brigadier-general  Zebulon  Montgomery  Pike,   born  in  New  Jersey  in 
1779,  was  a  lieutenant  in  the  United  States  army,  when,  in  1805,  he  was  given 
command  of  an  expedition  to  trace  the  Mississippi  River  to  its  source.     Hav- 
ing made  this  journey  and  obtained  land  from  the  Indians  for  a  fort  at  the 
Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  he  was  sent  the  following  year  to  explore  the  Arkansas 
and  Red  rivers.     Ascending  the  Arkansas  to  the  mountains,  and  discovering 
Pike's  Peak,  but  unable  to  find  the  source  of  the  Red,  he  came  upon  the  Rio 
Grande,  and  there  was  taken  prisoner  by  the  Spanish,  and  sent  to  Santa  F£. 
While  in  command  of  an  expedition  against  York  (Toronto),  Canada,  in  1813, 
he  was  accidentally  killed  by  the  explosion  of  a  magazine. —  ED. 

123  For  a  brief  account  of  Limestone,  see  A.  Michaux's  Travels,  volume  iii 
of  our  series,  note  123. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  281 

constant,  and  hundreds  of  buildings  are  situated  near 
their  verge.  The  owners  of  these  buildings  have  already 
incurred  much  expense,  in  endeavouring  to  secure  the 
banks  where  their  individual  property  stands;  but  there  is 
no  union  in  these  efforts,  and  the  means  employed  are 
totally  inefficient.  Most  of  the  towns  on  the  Ohio  are  every 
year  partially  inundated,  in  consequence  of  the  astonish- 
ing rise  of  the  river.  The  banks  are  frequently  overflown 
to  the  depth  of  twenty  feet. 

Opposite  to  Cincinnati  is  Licking  River.  This  river  is 
navigable  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles.  On  its 
west  bank,  near  its  junction  with  the  Ohio,  is  the  town  of 
Coventry;  and  on  the  other  side  is  Newport.  They  are 
both  considerable  places,  and  present  an  elegant  appear- 
ance. 

In  travelling  through  the  woods,  a  few  miles  from  this 
river,  I  met  with  several  species  of  birds  which  I  had  never 
before  seen.  Nature's  fondness  for  variety  is  conspicu- 
ously displayed  in  all  her  works;  and  I  am  surprised  that 
naturalists  have  not  noticed  this  circumstance,  so  as  to 
furnish,  at  least  a  plausible  argument,  in  the  disquisitions 
of  philosophy  concerning  the  human  race. 

At  the  junction  of  the  Ohio  and  Cumberland  rivers  is 
the  little  town  of  Smithland.124  A  more  miserable  looking 
place  exists  no  where.  It  contains  a  few  wretched  build- 
ings, some  of  which  are  occupied  for  the  accommodation 
of  boatmen.  Here  the  slaves  are  more  numerous  than  the 
whites,  and  many  of  the  former  appear  far  better  in  point 
of  morals  and  intelligence. 

Before  I  leave  Kentucky,  I  may  touch  upon  a  [177]  topic, 
which  distinguishes  her,  and  many  of  the  Southern  and 

m  Smithland,  the  capital  of  Livingston  County,  Kentucky,  enjoyed  con- 
siderable trade  with  the  interior  of  Tennessee,  being  a  point  for  the  reshipment 
of  goods  up  the  Cumberland.  Its  prosperity  was  shortlived,  however;  in  1850 
the  population  was  twelve  hundred,  and  in  1890  five  hundred  and  sixty.— ED. 


282  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

Western  States,  from  those  of  New-England.  The  prac- 
tice which  prevails  in  the  former  of  individuals  publicly 
tendering  their  services  to  the  people,  pending  elections  for 
representatives,  may,  in  the  abstract,  be  productive  of  some 
evils;  but  relative  to  the  systems  of  intrigue,  which  exist, 
in  a  greater  or  less  degree,  in  every  state  in  the  Union,  it  is 
a  practice  which  policy  dictates,  and  patriotism  sanctions. 
A  large  concourse  of  people,  listening  to  the  animated  ora- 
tory of  rival  candidates,  may  experience  some  excitement ; 
but  is  not  this  a  less  evil  than  those  which  arise  from  the 
dark  and  silent  operations  of  abandoned  men,  who  have 
combined  for  their  own  exclusive  advancement,  and  for  the 
purpose  of  keeping  out  of  sight  those,  whose  virtues  and 
talents,  by  coming  into  contact  with  theirs,  would  render 
their  darkness  visible  ? 

The  safety  of  our  government,  rests  upon  the  existence 
of  good  principles;  and  the  preservation  of  these  principles 
depends  in  no  small  degree  upon  their  being  patronized, 
and  rewarded.  Under  such  a  government  as  ours,  every 
political  proceeding  should  be  fair  and  open.  No  intrigue 
should  be  countenanced.  The  people  should  be  able  to 
see  every  cause  and  effect  of  the  political  machinery.  Vir- 
tue, talents,  and  patriotism,  should  be  encouraged;  and 
vice,  ignorance,  and  selfishness,  discountenanced.  The 
latter  should  never  be  suffered  to  obtain  the  patronage  of 
the  people  through  private  intrigue,  and  the  agency  of 
petty  coalitions.  But  this  will  always  be  the  case,  where 
political  management  may  be  cloaked  under  the  bustle 
of  party  spirit  and  mock-patriotism. 

No  wise  man  will,  unless  prompted  by  a  sense  of  duty, 
arising  from  the  perils  of  the  times,  ever  wish  [178]  for  the 
toils,  and  the  responsibilities  of  office;  or  ever  expose  him- 
self to  the  caprice  of  the  multitude.  But  there  may  be 
seasons  when,  owing  to  the  corrupt  practices  incident  ta 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  283 

party  spirit,  the  jargon  of  ignorance,  and  the  pretended 
patriotism  of  villainy,  shall  have  usurped  the  management 
of  public  concerns,  and  have  cypherised  the  community,  it 
would  be  the  indispensable  obligation  of  the  true  patriot 
to  tender  his  services  to  his  country,  to  discountenance  ex- 
isting systems  of  political  traffic,  and  thereby  to  restore  to 
the  people  their  consequence,  their  security,  and  their  rep- 
utation. 

After  being  sometime  in  Kentucky,  I  crossed  the  Ohio 
and  entered  Indiana. 

This  state  lies  on  the  river  Ohio,  from  the  Great  Miami 
to  the  Wabash.  On  the  east  is  the  state  of  Ohio,  on  the 
west  Illinois;  and  on  the  north-west  Michigan.  The  form 
of  Indiana  is  that  of  an  oblong.  The  sinuosities  of  the 
Ohio,  however,  render  its  boundary  here  very  uneven.  The 
length  of  the  state  is  about  270  miles,  and  its  breadth  130. 

The  soil,  climate,  face  of  the  country,  and  productions 
of  this  state  resemble  those  of  Ohio.  Salt  springs,  coal 
pits,  lime,  free  stone,  and  valuable  clays  of  various  kinds 
abound  in  Indiana;  and  on  the  Wabash,  it  is  said  there  is 
a  silver  mine. 

The  salt  springs  of  the  west  generally  produce  a  bushel 
of  salt  from  about  one  hundred  gallons  of  the  water. 
This  water  is  frequently  obtained  by  boring,  from  sixty 
to  two  hundred  feet,  through  solid  rock.  There  is,  in  the 
west,  springs  of  salt  petre;  and  in  Indiana  there  are  very 
valuable  salt  springs,  which  belong  to  the  United  States, 
and  which  are  profitably  managed  by  the  government.125 

The  Prairie  in  Indiana,  called  Pilkawa,  is  a  high  level 

125  These  salt  springs  in  the  vicinity  of  Saline  Creek,  in  southeastern  Illinois, 
were  ceded  to  the  United  States  (1803)  by  an  Indian  treaty  negotiated  by  Gov- 
ernor Harrison  at  Fort  Wayne.  For  several  years  they  were  leased  by  the  gen- 
eral government,  but  in  the  Illinois  enabling  act  were  granted  to  that  state- 
They  were  a  subject  of  state  litigation  for  a  period  of  thirty  years,  the  last  one 
being  sold  in  1847. —  ED. 


284  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

ground,  seven  miles  long  and  three  broad.  Its  [179]  soil  is 
very  rich,  and  upon  it  there  was  never  known  to  be  a  tree. 

Vincennes,  the  capital  of  Indiana,  lies  on  the  Wabash.13' 
Here  the  commerce  of  the  state  principally  centres.  Goods 
from  Canada  pass  into  this  state  down  the  Illinois  river. 
From  New- Orleans  they  proceed  up  the  Mississippi,  Ohio, 
and  Wabash;  and  from  the  eastern  and  southern  states  by 
the  way  of  the  Ohio  and  last  mentioned  river. 

In  this  state,  on  the  river  Ohio,  is  the  celebrated  Swiss 
settlement.127  The  situation  does  not  present  a  very  fa- 
vorable appearance,  and  I  apprehend  that  much  success  is 
not  experienced  in  the  making  of  wine  there.  It  appears 
to  me  that  a  more  favorable  tract  for  this  business  might 
be  found  in  Kentucky.  The  soil  of  this  state  is  lighter 
and  warmer  than  that  of  Indiana. 

Near  the  Swiss  settlement  I  met  with  many  trees  and 
bushes  quite  new  to  me.  The  thorn  bush  here  produces 
thorns,  which  would  answer  the  purpose  of  nails.  They 
are  three  inches  long,  and  so  sharp  and  hard  that  they 
can  be  pressed,  with  the  hand,  through  an  inch  board. 
The  buck-eye,  of  which  I  have  spoken,  is,  probably,  the 
horse  chesnut  of  Europe.  The  magnolia  bears  blossoms 
very  beautiful  and  fragrant.  The  coffee  tree  resembles 
the  black  oak,  and  bears  a  pod  enclosing  a  seed,  of  which 
a  drink  is  made,  not  unlike  coffee.  The  papaw  resembles 
the  locust,  or  custard  apple  tree,  and  bears  a  pod,  contain- 
ing several  very  rich  kernels,  of  the  size  and  colour  of  a 
tamarind.128 

128  For  an  account  of  Vincennes,  see  Croghan's  Journals,  volume  i  of  our 
series,  note  113. —  ED. 

127  With  reference  to  the  Swiss  settlement  at  Vevay,  see  Bradbury's  Travels, 
volume  v  of  our  series,  note  164. —  ED. 

128  The  Ohio  buckeye  or  horse-chestnut   is  the  JEsculus  glabra;   the  Ohio 
species  is  the  mountain  magnolia  or  Magnolia  acuminata;  the  coffee  tree  (Gym- 
nocladus  canadensis)  resembles  the  black  oak;  the  papaw  tree  is  the  Asimina 
triloba.—  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  285 

The  principal  river  in  Indiana  is  the  Wabash.  The 
banks  of  this  river  are  high  and  fertile,  and  its  aspect  very 
beautiful.  It  is  navigable,  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year, 
upwards  of  six  hundred  miles.  White,  Theakiki  and 
Calumet  rivers  are  its  greatest  tributaries.129 

[180]  Just  above  Vincennes  is  Fort  Knox,  and  a  little 
above  the  latter  are  situated  the  Watenaus.180  The  Poo- 
tewatomies  are  settled  not  far  from  the  southerly  end  of 
Lake  Michigan.  It  may  here  be  observed,  that  the  In- 
dians of  North  America,  especially  those  who  reside  within 
the  boundaries  of  the  United  States,  are  continually  chan- 
ging their  place  of  residence;  that  they  divide  their  tribes 
into  many  small  societies,  and  each  of  these  occupy  one 
village.  These  societies,  although  of  the  same  tribe,  fre- 
quently acquire  a  new  name.  Hence  arise,  in  part,  the 
almost  innumerable  number  of  names,  which  suggest  the 
idea  of  new  tribes.  Different  names  too,  are  sometimes 
given  to  the  same  tribe  or  society.  But  the  tribes  of  the 
north  and  west  are  still  very  numerous.  It  has  been  sup- 
posed that  our  government  is  too  desirous  of  obtaining 
Indian  lands  upon  fair  purchase.  As  to  this  particular 
I  can  only  say,  that  many  tracts  which  are  sold,  are  not 
worth  a  cent  to  their  occupants,  in  as  much  as  they  have 
ceased  to  be  good  hunting  grounds,  and  the  owners  are 
about  to  abandon  them. 

The  river  Tippecanoe  is  a  branch  of  the  Wabash.    It  is 

"•The  Theakiki  is  the  Kankakee,  a  tributary  of  the  Illinois,  not  of  the 
Wabash.  Calumet  River  empties  into  Lake  Michigan  and  does  not  connect 
with  the  Wabash.—  ED. 

uo  A  fort  was  established  by  the  French  at  Vincennes  early  in  the  eighteenth 
century.  Upon  passing  into  the  hands  of  the  British,  it  was  renamed  Fort 
Sackville.  George  Rogers  Clark  marched  from  Kaskaskia  and  captured  it 
(1779),  changing  the  name  to  Fort  Patrick  Henry.  In  1787,  Major  Ham- 
tranck  was  stationed  there  with  a  detachment  of  infantry,  and  its  name  was 
once  more  changed  to  Fort  Knox,  in  honor  of  the  first  secretary  of  war. 

For  a  brief  account  of  the  Ouiatanon  (Watenans),  see  Croghan's  Journals, 
volume  i  of  our  series,  note  85. —  ED. 


286  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  a 

well  known  that  in  1811  a  bloody  battle  was  fought  on  the 
former,  between  the  Americans  and  Indians.131  The  his- 
tory of  this  engagement  is  very  interesting.  It  is  worth 
one's  while  to  recur  to  it.  Our  troops,  headed  by  the  in- 
trepid Harrison,  penetrated  through  a  dreary  wilderness 
for  the  purpose  of  destroying  the  Town  of  the  Prophet, 
who,  together  with  Tecumseh,  a  brother  of  his,  had  been 
endeavouring  to  excite,  in  several  tribes  of  Indians,  hostile 
feelings  towards  the  United  States.  The  troops  of  Harri- 
son were,  during  their  march,  surrounded  and  menaced 
by  many  hostile  tribes.  After  arriving  at  their  place  of 
destination,  they  encamped  for  the  night.  Just  before  day 
light  the  [181]  next  morning,  a  furious  and  determined  on- 
set was  made  by  the  Indians,  and  a  bloody  contest  ensued. 
Before  our  troops  could  form,  there  were  engagements, 
man  to  man,  in  the  tents.  The  tawny  Indian  and  the 
hale  soldier  grappled  for  mastery.  The  march  of  the 
Americans  had  been  very  laborious  and  fatiguing;  and 
both  by  day  and  by  night  the  strictest  watch,  and  the  ut- 
most readiness  for  action  had  been  maintained.  But  flesh 
and  blood  must  have  repose.  The  soldier  slept  upon  his 
arms.  He  saw  the  approach  of  the  savage,  but  awaking, 
found  it  was  a  dream.  He  slept,  and  dreamed  again;  — 
he  awoke  no  more :  —  some  of  our  troops  were  found  dead, 
and  even  scalped  in  their  tents.  This  was  a  night  full  of 
horror.  It  was  dark  and  rainy,  and  the  air  was  rended 
by  savage  yells. 

The  vigilant  Harrison  was  up,  and  giving  orders,  just 

m  The  people  of  Indiana  Territory  believed  the  Indian  chief  Tecumseh 
and  his  brother,  the  Prophet,  were  stirring  up  a  general  Indian  war;  and, 
wishing  to  anticipate  them,  Governor  William  H.  Harrison  led  an  attack  oa 
the  Indian  village  at  the  confluence  of  Tippecanoe  Creek  and  the  Wabash 
River,  November  7,  1811.  The  Indians  were  driven  back  and  the  village 
burned,  but  Tecumseh  continued  plotting,  and  took  ample  revenge  during 
the  War  of  1812-15.  See  Pirtle,  Battle  o}  Tippecanoe,  Filson  Club  Publica- 
tions, xv. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  287 

as  the  attack  commenced.  Our  officers  and  men  quickly 
stepped  to  their  posts.  In  their  way  they  met  the  savage  foe, 
and  contended  with  him  in  darkness.  The  General  ordered 
all  his  fires  to  be  immediately  extinguished ;  his  troops  were 
soon  formed,  and  the  contest  was,  for  some  time,  main- 
tained with  unabated  fury.  The  result  is  well  known. 

Those  of  our  countrymen,  who  fell  in  this  engagement, 
deserve  our  grateful  remembrance;  and  those  who  sur- 
vived it  should  be  rewarded. 

After  the  battle  the  wounded  suffered  exceedingly.  Car- 
ried in  waggons  over  so  rough  a  way,  their  ligatures  were 
loosened,  and  death  daily  lightened  the  load.  In  this  con- 
test the  renowned  4th  regiment  breasted,  with  an  immove- 
able  aspect,  the  fury  of  the  savages;  and  thereby  saved 
from  destruction  the  rest  of  the  troops.  Many  of  the 
militia,  thus  supported,  behaved  well;  but  some  of  them 
fled,  like  whipp'd  curs,  under  the  baggage  waggons. 

[182]  Colonel  Davies,183  who  fell  upon  this  sanguinary 
field,  possessed  a  high  military  genius.  His  enthusiasm 
was  lofty;  and  had  he  survived  this  bloody  conflict,  the  last 
war  would,  probably,  have  felt  his  giant  energies.  Other 
great  souls  fell  on  this  trying  night;  but  my  humble  records 
cannot  do  them  justice. 

Near  the  head  waters  of  the  Wabash  some  of  the  Kick- 
apoos  are  settled;  and  here  too  the  Shawanese  have  some 
of  their  hunting  grounds.188  This  last  idea  suggests  the 

131  Colonel  Joseph  Daviess  was  of  Scotch-Irish  descent,  born  in  Virginia  in 
1774.  His  parents  removed  to  Danville,  Kentucky,  while  Daviess  was  a  lad. 
He  studied  law  with  George  Nicholas,  and  became  one  of  the  ablest  and  most 
successful  lawyers  of  the  state,  serving  as  United  States  attorney  1800-07. 
During  this  period,  Daviess  brought  in  an  indictment  against  Aaron  Burr  (1806) 
which  caused  great  excitement  and  animosity.  He  was  noted  for  his  eccen- 
tricities as  well  as  his  courage,  and  his  death  on  the  Indian  battle-field  won  him 
wide  fame.  Counties  were  named  for  him  both  in  Kentucky  and  Illinois. —  ED. 

lffl  For  the  Kickapoo  and  Shawnee  Indians,  see  Croghan's  Journals,  volume 
i  of  our  series,  notes  108,  in. —  ED. 


288  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

subject  of  Zoology.  There  is  no  topic  in  nature  more  in- 
teresting than  this.  The  great  variety  of  species  which 
this  genius  presents,  and  the  dispositions  peculiar  to  each, 
render  this  subject  an  inexhaustible  source  of  instruction 
and  entertainment.  From  the  animal  world,  man  may 
derive  important  lessons  in  relation  to  industry,  economy 
and  perseverance.  Indeed,  here  are  displayed  all  the 
passions  and  affections  incident  to  human  nature; — all 
that  is  exalted,  and  all  that  is  mean :  —  the  generous  cour- 
age of  the  lion,  the  selfish  cunning  of  the  fox,  the  ferocity 
of  the  bull  dog,  and  the  fawning  of  the  spaniel.  Here  is  a 
fund  of  simile  illustrative  of  dispositions,  manners,  and 
morals,  which  are  exceedingly  forcible. 

The  relations  of  this  subject  are  too  numerous  for  inci- 
dental remark.  Unless  the  whole  of  it  is  embraced,  one 
hardly  knows  where  to  begin,  or  where  to  leave  off.  That 
part  of  natural  philosophy,  which  relates  to  the  animal  and 
vegetable  worlds,  have  an  intimate  connexion  with  moral 
nature.  The  whole  creation  presents  to  the  human  mind 
the  most  engaging  subjects  of  contemplation ; —  subjects 
which  speak  to  his  heart,  and  eloquently  persuade  him  to 
love  and  adore  his  Heavenly  Father.  The  Scriptures  de- 
rive from  this  source  moral  and  religious  illustrations, 
which  are  truly  impressive:  In  the  8oth  [183]  Psalm  the 
Deity  speaks  of  his  chosen  people  under  the  similitude  of 
a  vine  brought  out  of  Egypt ;  and  on  account  of  transgres- 
sion, "the  boar  out  of  the  wood  doth  waste  it,  and  the  wild 
beast  of  the  field  doth  devour  it. ' '  David,  in  represent- 
ing the  happiness,  security,  and  comfort  of  a  Christian 
spirit,  exclaims,  "the  sparrow  hath  found  an  house,  and 
the  swallow  a  nest  for  herself; — even  thine  altars,  O 
Lord  of  hosts!"  And  in  speaking  of  the  universal  care 
of  Providence,  he  says,  "He  giveth  to  the  beast  his  food, 
and  to  the  young  ravens  which  cry."  Jeremiah  too,  in 


i8i8]  Evans  s  Pedestrians  Tour  289 

censuring  the  Jews  for  their  insensibility  and  impenitence, 
declares,  "yea,  the  stork  in  the  heaven  knoweth  her  ap- 
pointed times;  and  the  turtle,  and  the  crane,  and  the  swal- 
low, observe  the  time  of  their  coming :  but  my  people  know 
not  the  judgment  of  the  Lord. ' '  Lastly,  how  supremely 
interesting,  in  view  of  the  innocence  of  the  lamb,  is  the  ex- 
clamation, "Behold  the  Lamb  of  God  which  taketh  away 
the  sins  of  the  world!"  The  Author  of  the  Scriptures  is, 
indeed,  the  great  God  of  nature ;  and  in  his  Word,  he  has 
employed  that  wonderful  pencil,  with  which  he  has  gar- 
nished the  heavens. 

The  opossum  of  Indiana  is  said  to  possess  peculiar  qual- 
ities. This  animal  has  ever  excited  the  attention  of  natur- 
alists, by  its  extraordinary  means  of  cherishing  and  secur- 
ing its  young.  Under  the  belly  of  the  opossum  is  a  bag, 
composed  of  a  thick  skin  completely  lined  with  soft  fur, 
and  this  skin  fully  covers  the  animal's  teats.  Into  this  bag 
the  young  of  the  opossum  lie;  and,  in  a  time  of  danger, 
the  parent  closes  this  bag,  the  young  hang  upon  her  teats, 
and  in  this  situation  she  endeavours  to  escape  from  her 
pursuers. 

It  is  well  known  that  the  opossum,  at  its  birth,  is  re- 
markably small;  but  the  account  which  I  received  [184] 
from  an  intelligent  farmer  of  Indiana,  in  relation  to  this 
particular,  is  almost  incredible.  This  account,  however, 
seems  to  be  supported,  analogically,  by  the  testimony  of 
naturalists.  The  young  of  the  marmose,  a  species  of 
opossum,  is,  when  first  born,  not  larger  than  a  bean.  This 
animal  has  two  longitudinal  folds  of  skin,  near  the  thighs, 
in  which  her  young  are  comfortably  kept  until  they  ac- 
quire strength  enough  to  take  care  of  themselves. 

The  Indiana  planter  says,  that  the  young  of  the  real 
opossum  has  been  found,  in  the  bag  described,  not  larger 
than  a  grain  of  barley.  We  may  here  inquire,  in  what 


290  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

way  the  opossum  is  propagated  ?  The  above  account  of 
the  young  of  the  opossum  is  not  absolutely  incredible. 
Nature's  modes  of  production  are  astonishingly  various. 
Aristotle  says,  that  she  abhors  a  vacuum;  and  certain  it  is, 
that  she  dislikes  similarity.  Some  of  her  animated  ex- 
istences she  produces  through  the  instrumentality  of  one 
sex,  some  of  two,  some  of  three,  and  some  without  any 
sex.  The  snail  is  an  hermaphrodite;  and  some  shell-ani- 
mals in  the  East-Indies  require,  in  order  to  their  produc- 
tion, the  union  of  three  individuals.  The  polypus  is  very 
prolific,  and  yet  is  destitute  of  sexual  distinction.  Upon 
its  body  appear  protuberances,  similar  to  buds  upon  trees, 
and  these  are  the  real  animal  in  miniature.  Whilst  in  this 
state,  they  are  nourished,  apparently,  as  buds  are  nour- 
ished by  sap,  and  when  they  are  capable  of  taking  care  of 
themselves,  they  fall  off  like  ripe  fruit. 

Two  other  peculiarities  of  the  opossum  are  its  dread 
of  water,  and  indifference  to  fire.  It  is  said  that  this 
animal,  upon  being  slightly  stricken,  pretends  to  be  dead; 
and  continues  to  appear  so  even  when  its  paws  are 
burning  off;  but  when  put  into  water  it  immediately 
becomes  alarmed,  and  struggles  to  save  itself.  Natu- 
ralists say,  that  this  animal  subsists,  principally,  upon 
birds. 

[185]  Leaving  the  state  of  Indiana,  I  passed  into  the 
Illinois  Territory.  This  territory  is  generally  level,  but  I 
think  it  more  diversified  than  Indiana.  The  Illinois  Ter- 
ritory is  of  immense  extent.  It  is  bounded  on  the  east,  by 
Lake  Michigan  and  Indiana;  on  the  south,  by  the  Ohio 
river:  on  the  south-west  and  west,  by  the  Mississippi;  on 
the  north  by  Lake  Superior;  on  the  north-west  by  the  Lake 
of  the  Woods;  and  west-south-west,  by  the  most  northern 
source  of  the  Mississippi.  It  constitutes  the  whole  of  the 
North- West  Territory,  excepting  Ohio,  Michigan,  and  In- 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  291 

diana,  and  contains  about  20x3,000  square  miles,  exclusive 
of  the  waters  of  Lake  Superior  and  Michigan. 

The  meadows  on  the  river  Illinois  are  very  extensive. 
The  aspect  of  the  river  is  expansive  and  gentle;  and  at  its 
confluence  with  the  Mississippi,  it  is  about  four  hundred 
yards  wide.  The  other  principal  rivers  in  this  territory, 
are  the  Ouisconsin,  and  Fox  rivers.  The  former  runs  very 
near  Fox  river,  which  enters  Lake  Winnebago.  This 
Lake  is  the  nearest  average  point  of  communication  be- 
tween the  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico.  On  the  Illinois  river,  there  is  pit  coal,  salt  springs, 
and  in  other  parts  of  the  territory,  lead  and  copper  mines. 
Between  the  rivers  Kaskaskias,  and  Illinois,  there  is  an 
extensive  tract  of  rich  land,  which  terminates  in  a  high 
ridge.  In  this  fertile  vale  are  a  number  of  small  French 
villages.134 

There  is  a  communication,  between  the  Illinois  river 
and  Lake  Michigan,  by  the  way  of  Chicago  river,  and  two 
small  portages.185  The  Illinois  strikes  the  Mississippi 
about  twenty  miles  above  the  Missouri,  and  its  principal 
branch  runs  in  the  direction  of  Detroit.138 

The  principal  towns  in  the  Illinois  Territory  are  Kas- 
kaskia,  Cohokia,  and  Goshen.137  Shawne  town  [186]  lies 
on  the  Ohio,  and  is  an  inconsiderable  place.138  Here  are 

134  A  brief  account  of  the  early  French  settlements  in  Illinois  may  be  found 
in  A.  Michaux's  Travels,  volume  iii  of  our  series,  notes  132-136. —  ED. 

135  From  the  Des  Plaines,  the  northern  fork  of  the  Illinois,  one  portage  led 
to  the  Chicago  River,  the  other  to  the  Calumet,  which  empties  into  Lake  Michi- 
gan at  the  present  South  Chicago. —  ED. 

138  The  Kankakee  River,  called  by  the  French  Theakiki.  For  these  early 
routes  of  water  travel,  see  Wisconsin  Historical  Collections,  xvi,  p.  372. —  ED. 

137  The  present  Madison  County  in  Illinois  was  explored  about   1799,  and 
called  Goshen.    The  village  of  that  name,  about  five  miles  southwest  of  Ed- 
wardsville,  was  begun  in  1800. —  ED. 

138  For  the  founding  of  Shawneetown,  see  Croghan's  Journals,  volume  i  of 
our  series,  note  108. —  ED. 


292  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

several  taverns,  a  bake-house,  and  a  few  huts.  Some  of 
the  settlements  in  Illinois  are  ancient,  and  very  consider- 
able. 

Formerly  there  were  about  twenty  tribes  of  Indians  in- 
habiting the  Illinois  Territory;  and  a  large  proportion  of 
the  lands  here  still  belong  to  them.  The  Winnebagoes  still 
reside  on  Fox  river;  the  Saukies  on  the  upper  part  of  the 
Ouisconsin;  and  the  Ottiganmies  near  its  mouth.189 

Fort  Massac  is  situated  in  Illinois,  near  the  mouth  of 
the  Ohio."0  Its  site  is  elevated;  but  the  adjacent  country 
is  frequently  overflown. 

The  Illinois  Territory  possesses  a  fine  climate,  a  variety 
of  rich  soils,  and  many  peculiarities,  which  are  calculated 
to  render  her,  at  some  future  period,  a  very  distinguished 
state. 

About  ten  miles  beyond  Cumberland  river,  on  the  Ohio, 
is  the  river  Tennessee.  This  river  finds  its  most  remote 
sources  in  Virginia,  passes  through  the  state  of  Tennessee 
from  east  to  west,  and  in  its  course  enters  the  State  of 
Mississippi.  This  is  the  largest  source  of  the  Ohio.  It 
pursues  its  course  about  one  thousand  miles  before  it  en- 
ters the  Ohio,  and  at  its  junction  with  it,  its  width  is  about 
six  hundred  yards.  It  is  navigable,  for  the  largest  vessels, 
to  the  Muscle  Shoals,  a  distance  of  two  hundred  and  fifty 
miles.  These  shoals  are  about  twenty  miles  in  length; 
but  the  navigation  here  may  be  easily  improved.141 

138  On  these  Indian  tribes,  consult  Long's  Voyages,  volume  ii  of  our  series, 
notes  85,  86. —  ED. 

140  For  the  early  history  of  Fort  Massac,  see  A.  Michaux's  Travels,  volume  iii 
of  our  series,  note  139. —  ED. 

141  The  "Muscle  Shoal"  Rapids  fall  within  northern  Alabama.     The  im- 
provement of  the  Tennessee  at  this  point  was  long  under  discussion.     In  1825 
commissioners  were  appointed  by  the  governors  of  Tennessee  and  Alabama  to 
report  thereupon;  three  years  later  a  survey  was  made  by  order  of  the  depart- 
ment of  war,  relative  to  removing  obstructions  in  the  channel.     A  canal  around 
the  rapids  was  begun  (1829),  but  about  that  time  railroads  began  to  absorb  the 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  293 

At  no  far  distant  period,  a  considerable  part  of  the  pro- 
duce of  the  Ohio,  and  its  tributaries,  will,  probably,  find 
a  market  in  West-Florida,  instead  of  New  Orleans.  This 
will  be  more  particularly  the  case,  should  Pensacola  be- 
come the  property  of  the  United  States;  and  of  this  event 
there  can  be  no  doubt.  It  will  soon  become  ours  by  pur- 
chase, or  by  [187]  conquest.  For  an  honest  purpose  Spain, 
or  her  secret  ally,  will  not  wish  to  own  it ;  she  will,  there- 
fore, forfeit  it  by  transgression,  or  when  it  shall  become 
useless  to  her  in  this  respect,  she  will  sell  it.  There  can  be 
no  doubt,  that,  ere  long,  East-Florida,  and  that  part  of 
West-Florida  which  belongs  to  Spain,  will  become  ours.14* 

Pensacola,  Mobile,  and  other  places  on  the  coast  of 
West-Florida  will  soon  become  places  of  immense  trade. 
The  great  cause  of  the  business  and  wealth  of  New-Or- 
leans, is  the  union,  which  there  takes  place,  between  a  vast 
inland  and  foreign  commerce.  Such  a  union  at  Pensacola, 
or  Mobile  would  be  much  more  advantageous.  The 
planters  on  the  Ohio  and  its  waters,  could  carry  their 
produce  to  these  markets  at  much  less  expense;  and  the 
shipper  could  here  freight  vessels  for  its  exportation  at  a 
lower  rate. 

Boats  on  the  Ohio,  instead  of  passing  into  the  Missis- 
sippi, may  ascend  the  Tennessee  as  far  as  the  Muscle 
Shoals,  or  within  fifty  miles  of  them,  and  then  entering 
the  Tombecbee  by  a  canal,  which  may  easily  be  made,  pass 
down  to  Mobile.  The  current  of  the  Tennessee  to  the 
Muscle  Shoals  is  gentle,  and  boats  may  be  pushed  up  the 

attention  of  the  Southern  states,  ar.1  the  War  of  Secession  following,  it  has  never 
been  completed.  The  necessary  improvements  in  the  river  channel  have 
finally  been  made  by  the  United  States  government. —  ED. 

10  The  diplomatic  negotiations  leading  to  the  purchase  of  Florida  were  long 
and  involved,  and  grew  out  of  the  attempt  to  fix  the  boundary  between  West 
Florida  and  the  United  States.  The  treaty  was  signed  in  1819,  Spain  ceding 
East  and  West  Florida  and  the  United  States  paying  five  million  dollars. —  ED. 


294  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

stream  without  much  expense.  Coosee  river,  a  branch  of 
the  Alabama,  also  approaches  very  near  to  the  Tennessee; 
and  from  the  Alabama  to  the  river  Perdido,  near  Pensa- 
cola,  the  distance  is  very  small. 

If  these  ideas  are  correct,  the  trade  of  New  Orleans, 
both  foreign  and  domestic,  will  not  increase  so  rapidly  as 
might  otherwise  be  expected.  It  is  well  known,  that  the 
expense  attending  the  navigation  of  vessels  up  the  Missis- 
sippi to  New-Orleans,  and  in  passing  from  thence  to  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  is  frequently  great.  Vessels  are  some- 
times from  thirty  to  sixty  days  in  ascending  this  river  to 
the  city;  and  in  descending  it  the  detention,  both  on  the 
[188]  river  and  at  the  pilot-ground,  near  its  entrance 
into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  is  often  considerable.  Besides,  the 
danger  attending  this  navigation  is  far  from  being  small. 

Should  the  produce  of  that  part  of  the  Western  Coun- 
try, which  lies  on  the  Ohio,  pass  into  the  Tombecbee  and 
Alabama  rivers,  Mobile  will  rapidly  increase;  and  should 
the  United  States  acquire  a  right  to  Pensacola,  it  will  prob- 
ably become,  in  time,  one  of  the  greatest  commercial 
places  in  the  world.  No  maritime  city  will,  in  this  event, 
possess  a  back  country  so  extensive,  rich,  and  populous; 
and  none  more  completely  combine  the  energies  of  inland, 
and  foreign  commerce.  The  harbour  of  Pensacola  is  one 
of  the  best  in  the  world. 

Before  I  leave  the  Ohio,  it  may  be  well  for  me  to  intro- 
duce a  general  idea  of  the  courses  of  this  river.  Its  minor 
sinuosities  are  too  numerous  to  mention.  From  Pitts- 
burg,  this  river  proceeds  in  a  north-west  course  about 
thirty  miles; — west-south-west,  five  hundred  miles; — 
south-west,  one  hundred  and  seventy  miles; — west,  two 
hundred  and  eighty  miles;  —  south-west,  one  hundred 
and  eighty  miles; —  and  the  residue  of  the  distance,  west- 
south-west. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  295 

The  Ohio  is  a  wonderful  river.  Its  utility,  and  beauty 
are  highly  conspicuous.  Its  banks,  where  not  cultivated, 
are  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  trees,  and  bushes,  which, 
bending  over  the  water,  yield  a  prospect  at  once  serene  and 
rich.  Some  of  the  banks,  especially  on  the  upper  parts  of 
the  river,  are  covered  with  lofty  forests  of  sycamores. 

The  fish  in  this  river  are  of  various  kinds;  among  which 
is  the  cat-fish,  weighing  from  five  to  one  hundred  pounds. 
The  fish  in  the  western  waters  are  generally  very  fat. 

Whilst  on  the  Ohio,  and  near  the  mouth  of  the  Cumber- 
land, I  witnessed  a  deer  hunt,  if  it  may  so  [189]  be  called, 
which  excited  no  little  sensibility.  Several  keels  were  pass- 
ing silently  down  the  current.  It  was  noon-day,  and  the 
river  was  full,  expansive,  and  calm.  The  men  on  board 
of  the  boats  espied,  a  mile  ahead,  several  deer  swimming 
across  the  river.  One  of  the  deer  had  proceeded  nearly 
half  way  across,  when  the  skiffs  belonging  to  two  of  the 
keels  were  manned,  and  went  in  pursuit  of  him.  Each 
skiff  contained  two  oars-men,  and  one  in  the  bows  with 
a  boat  hook.  The  rival  skiffs  ploughed  through  the  silver 
stream.  The  deer  retreated  towards  the  wood;  but  one  of 
the  boats  outsped  him.  He  was  now  between  two  enemies. 
The  scene  was  interesting :  I  almost  prayed  for  his  rescue. 
For  twenty  minutes  the  fate  of  this  guileless  animal  was 
doubtful.  The  calm  which  prevailed  seemed  to  listen  to 
the  dashing  oar,  the  successless  blow,  and  the  almost 
breathless  efforts  of  the  poor  deer.  At  length  all  was 
silent;  the  boats  were  on  their  return; —  no  deer  was  seen 
in  the  river.  The  tired,  yet  sprightly  oar,  told  the  tale  of 
death;  and  nature,  for  a  moment,  seemed  to  darken  on  the 
scene. 

The  deer  was  a  buck,  two  years  old,  remarkably  large, 
and  elegantly  proportioned.  When  I  beheld  this  bleed- 
ing victim,  and  heard  the  boatmen's  song  of  triumph,  my 


296  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

heart  involuntarily  exclaimed,  if  men  must  butcher,  for 
Heaven's  sake,  let  them  not  do  it  in  mirth! 

Viewing  the  Mississippi  from  the  banks  of  the  Ohio,  its 
appearance  is  narrow,  and  confined;  but  it  is,  generally, 
much  wider,  and  in  many  places  expansive  and  elegant. 

All  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi,  above  the  Ohio,  are 
not  yet  known.  The  Missouri,  however,  is,  no  doubt, 
its  largest  tributary,  and  perhaps  its  main  branch. 
The  principal  source  of  the  Mississippi  above  the  Missouri 
appears  to  proceed  from  Bear  lake. 

[190]  The  river  Missouri  is  several  thousand  miles  in 
length,  and  runs  in  a  direction  north  of  west.  This  part 
of  the  country  has  been  explored  by  order  of  the  American 
Government ;  but  so  vast  is  it,  that  many  years  must  elapse, 
and  much  population  be  introduced  into  it,  before  infor- 
mation, to  be  fully  depended  upon,  can  be  obtained  re- 
specting it.  We  have,  by  the  efforts  of  Lewis  and  Clark,143 
and  other  hardy  spirits,  obtained  some  general  ideas  re- 
specting the  vast  tract  of  country,  between  the  mouth  of 
the  Missouri  and  the  Pacific  Ocean,  which  will  assist  us 
in  making  more  particular  discoveries;  but  at  present,  cau- 
tion should  be  exercised  in  relation  to  every  record  which 
is  made  upon  this  subject.  The  American  people  are  con- 
siderably interested  in  it,  and,  of  course,  will  be  disposed 
to  believe  every  assertion  in  favour  of  the  country.  Our 
government,  it  appears,  are  preparing  for  several  expedi- 
tions into  the  interior  of  the  Louisiana  purchase.  It  cer- 
tainly is  well  to  be  engaged,  during  the  present  season  of 


143  In  1803,  President  Jefferson  secured  a  small  appropriation  from  Congress, 
which  enabled  him  to  carry  out  a  long-cherished  plan  of  sending  an  exploring 
party  across  the  continent.  May  14,  1804,  the  expedition  of  Lewis  and  Clark 
started  up  the  Missouri  River,  reached  the  Pacific  Ocean  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia,  November  i,  1805;  and  returned  to  St.  Louis,  September,  1806. 
See  Original  Journals  of  the  Lewis  and  Clark  Expedition  (Thwaites's  ed.,  New 
York,  1904). —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  297 

tranquillity,  in  ascertaining  our  boundaries;  in  order  that 
our  resources  may  be  known,  and  that,  having  the  whole 
state  of  the  nation  before  us,  we  may  know  what  policy 
to  pursue  towards  its  respective  parts,  how  to  guard  against 
evils  which  may  be  apprehended,  and  to  promote  interests 
which  may  present  themselves  to  our  view. 

The  principal  town  in  the  Missouri  Territory  is  St. 
Louis.  This  town  is  very  pleasantly  situated,  about  fif- 
teen miles  below  the  river  Missouri,  and  contains  two  or 
three  hundred  houses.  St.  Genevieve  is  situated  about 
seventy  miles  below  St.  Louis.144  Near  this  place  are  inex- 
haustible lead  mines.  St.  Louis  is  rapidly  increasing,  and 
is  the  centre  of  the  fur  trade,  west  of  the  Mississippi.  It 
is  probable  that  the  country  west  of  the  river  Missouri  is 
elevated  and  broken,  and  contains  a  great  variety  of  ores. 
It  is  probably  too,  a  very  rich  fur  country. 

[191]  How  far  the  Louisiana  purchase  will  ultimately 
prove  beneficial  to  our  country,  tune  alone  can  determine. 
It  was  certainly  of  consequence  to  us  to  possess  the  right 
of  deposit  at  New-Orleans;  and  this,  it  is  presumed,  might 
have  been  acquired  without  a  purchase  of  the  soil.  We 
were  rich  enough  in  territory,  and  in  every  other  physical 
means  of  rendering  ourselves  a  great  and  a  happy  people. 
I  am  aware,  however,  that  wealth  is  beneficial,  if  it  does 
not  corrupt.  In  the  hands  of  the  virtuous,  it  is  a  mean 
of  doing  good. 

I  am  also  sensible  that  there  was  a  powerful  motive  for 
the  purchase  of  the  soil,  in  relation  to  a  change  of  govern- 
ment in  the  city  of  New-Orleans.  To  this  place  the  peo- 
ple of  the  west  would,  as  a  matter  of  course,  resort  for  a 
market.  In  relation  to  this  particular,  lies  the  principal 
motive,  and  the  principal  objection  with  respect  to  the 

144  For  St.  Louis,  see  A.  Michaux's  Travels,  note  138;  for  Ste.  Genevieve, 
see  Coming's  Tour,  note  1 74. —  ED. 


298  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

purchase;  and  whether  it  shall  prove  beneficial  or  other- 
wise, depends  upon  ourselves.  If  the  manners  of  this  city 
shall  not  be  improved  by  our  own  population,  who  may 
emigrate  thither,  where  will  be  the  moral  advantage  of  the 
purchase  ?  Indeed  will  not  our  citizens,  by  its  being  their 
own  territory,  more  readily  imbibe,  and  more  freely  com- 
municate the  corrupt  practices  of  this  place  ?  But,  if  by 
the  praiseworthy  conduct  of  our  citizens  residing  in  New- 
Orleans,  immorality  shall  be  checked,  and  good  principles 
introduced,  then,  indeed,  it  will  prove  a  purchase,  not  only 
for  our  country,  but  for  mankind.  Should  this  be  the  case, 
those  demoralizing  effects,  which  could  not  but  have  been 
apprehended  from  the  intercourse  between  our  citizens  and 
the  mixed  multitudes  of  Louisiana,  will  not  only  be  re- 
moved, but  in  the  place  of  these  exotic  weeds  will  flourish 
our  own  indiginous  plants.  There  were,  no  doubt,  other 
motives  for  the  purchase,  but  whether  they  ought  [192]  to 
have  operated  under  such  a  political  system  as  ours  is 
questionable. 

The  United  States  resemble,  in  many  particulars  of  their 
history,  the  Jewish  nation;  and  it  is  not  improper  to  say 
that  we  are  a  peculiar  people.  We  seem  to  be  treading 
in  every  direction,  upon  the  heels  of  the  savages:  they  are 
receding,  and  we  are  following  them. —  Happy  shall  we  be 
if  we  eye  the  hand  which  leads  us,  and  the  stretched  out 
arm  which  supports  us! —  happy  will  it  be  for  us,  if  instead 
of  corrupting  those  whose  places  we  occupy,  we  do  them 
good,  and  teach  them  to  be  virtuous! 

When  we  behold  the  United  States  every  day  extending 
their  boundaries,  and  increasing  their  resources  —  when 
we  see  the  moral  and  physical  energies  of  a  single  constitu- 
ent part  of  the  Union,  in  possession  of  more  real  force  than 
many  of  the  states  of  Europe,  we  are  astonished  at  our 
own  power,  and  our  own  responsibility.  Millions  are  yet 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  299 

to  be  influenced  by  our  example.  It  is  impossible  that  so 
much  power,  and  so  much  enterprise  should  remain  inac- 
tive. Our  western  boundary  will,  ultimately,  be  the  Pa- 
cific Ocean ;  our  northern,  the  North  Pole ;  our  southern,  the 
Isthmus  of  Darien;  and  on  the  ocean  we  shall  have  no 
competitor.  May  our  justice  ever  direct  our  power,  and 
may  we  be  the  patron  and  protector  of  oppressed  nations. 

Before  I  proceed  from  the  Ohio  towards  New-Orleans, 
it  may  be  observed  that  what  is  generally  understood  by 
the  Western  States  and  Territories,  is  all  that  part  of  the 
territory  of  the  United  States,  which  lies  west  of  the  Alle- 
ghany  mountains,  and  east  of  the  Mississippi  river. 

I  have  expressed  a  few  general  ideas  upon  this  vast  and 
excellent  tract  of  country.  Much  more  might  be  offered; 
but  it  would  be  both  useless,  and  improper  to  retail  the  rec- 
ords of  geographers.  [193]  However  few  may  be  my  state- 
ments upon  this  subject,  they  shall  be  dictated,  exclu- 
sively, by  my  own  observations. 

I  may  add,  that  the  timber  of  the  west  is  much  more 
various  than  that  of  the  east,  and  equally  useful.  The 
sugar-maple  tree  is  here  so  numerous,  that  they  would  prob- 
ably supply  the  whole  United  States  with  sugar.  The 
Spanish  oak  is  peculiar  to  the  west.  Here  too,  are  the 
lynn  tree,  gum  tree,  sugar  tree,  iron-wood,  aspin,  crab- 
apple,  bark-spice,  leather-wood,  &c.  &c.  The  sugar-tree 
produces  a  sweet  pod,  like  that  of  a  pea,  and  furnishes  very 
nutritious  food  for  swine. 

The  weather  in  the  west  is  milder  than  on  the  Atlantic 
coast;  but  it  is  also  more  changeable.  Rheumatism,  pleu- 
risies, consumptions,  billious  complaints,  &c.  cannot  but 
prevail  here.  The  exhalations  from  the  earth,  and  rivers 
is  great,  and  the  general  aspect  of  the  people,  situated  near 
these  rivers,  is  pale,  emaciated,  and  feeble;  but  in  these 
respects  the  country,  in  time,  will  be  less  disagreeable. 


300  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

The  earth  here,  in  summer,  is  covered  with  a  luxuriance 
of  vegetation,  which,  together  with  the  absence  of  varied 
scenery,  sicken  the  eye,  and  heart  of  the  traveller.  In 
some  places  one  can,  after  a  shower,  almost  hear  the  earth 
teem.  The  very  atmosphere  seems  fattening  to  the  cattle ; 
and  garden  weeds  grow  in  great  profusion  upon  the  un- 
cultivated grounds.  The  cane,  which  grows  here,  bears  a 
wide  leaf,  like  those  of  herds  grass;  and  for  cattle  it  is  pal- 
ateable,  and  nourishing.  The  stalk  of  the  cane  is  used  for 
angling  poles,  and  for  making  chairs,  looms,  &c. 

I  now  suppose  myself  on  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi. 
The  average  width  of  this  river  is  about  a  mile,  and  its 
length,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  is  [194]  about  twelve 
hundred  miles.  It  contains  a  great  many  islands,  some  of 
which  are  several  miles  in  length,  and  its  course  is  very 
serpentine.  Owing  to  the  soil  in  its  vicinity  being  allu- 
vian,  it  frequently  changes  its  course.  Sometimes  its  tribu- 
taries inundate  the  whole  country  on  both  sides  of  it.  The 
banks  of  the  river  are  generally  a  little  higher  than  the  ad- 
jacent country;  the  water,  therefore,  which  rises  over  them 
never  returns,  but  passes  off  into  the  swamps.  These 
swamps  are  very  extensive,  and  being  incapable  of  culti- 
vation, will  ever  render  the  climate  of  this  part  of  the  coun- 
try insalubrious.  During  freshets  the  water  of  the  Missis- 
sippi breaks  through  points  of  land  of  the  width  of  many 
leagues.  By  these  inundations  vast  trees  are  uprooted, 
carried  into  the  main  channel  of  the  river,  and  there  lodge. 
In  consequence  of  these  circumstances  the  navigation  of 
the  river  is  very  dangerous.  Hundreds  of  boats,  laden 
with  valuable  cargoes,  are  annually  wrecked,  and  destroyed 
here.  Here  too,  sudden  squalls,  attended  with  severe 
thunder  and  lightning,  are  frequent.  Even  on  the  Ohio, 
there  is,  at  tunes,  such  an  undulation  of  the  water,  as  to 
render  being  in  a  small  boat  very  dangerous.  Upon  the 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  301 

appearance  of  squalls  on  the  Mississippi,  the  boats  put 
ashore  as  soon  as  possible ;  and  it  is  interesting  to  see  them 
moving  in  with  so  much  labour,  bustle,  and  difficulty. 
There  is  frequently  much  danger  in  landing,  and  the  boats 
in  doing  so  sometimes  make  a  great  crash. 

The  principal  obstructions  to  the  navigation  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, are  sawyers,  planters,  and  snags.  The  first  are 
trees,  the  tops  of  which  are  fixed  in  the  bed  of  the  river 
near  a  strong  current ;  which  causes  them  to  rise  and  sink, 
so  as  to  resemble  the  action  of  a  saw  in  a  mill.  These 
make  a  formidable  appearance,  and  are  very  dangerous. 
Sometimes  [195]  the  sawyers  continue  under  water  for 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  and  then  instantaneously  rise 
above  the  surface,  to  the  distance  of  eight  or  ten  feet. 
They  frequently  make  their  appearance  very  near  the 
bows  of  the  boats,  in  which  case  much  judgment,  and  activ- 
ity are  necessary  to  escape  the  impending  destruction. 
Some  of  the  sawyers  do  not  appear  above  the  surface  at 
all;  and  by  being  concealed,  are  the  more  dangerous. 
Planters,  are  trees  likewise  lodged  in  the  bed  of  the  river, 
but  they  are  immoveable.  These  trees,  at  first,  lie  hor- 
izontally; but  by  the  force  of  the  current,  the  end  up  the 
river  is  raised,  and  sometimes  presents  a  sharp  point  con- 
siderably above  the  surface  of  the  water.  Snags,  are  trees 
which  lie  upon  the  shoals  of  the  river;  and  the  branches  of 
them  extend  into  the  channel.  There  are  several  difficult 
passes  on  the  Mississippi,  in  which  these  obstructions 
abound.  The  principal  of  these  passes,  are  the  Devil's 
Race-ground,  and  Picket-Island  passage. 

During  the  last  summer  two  steam-boats,  and  many 
boats  of  other  kinds  were  sunken  by  planters.  Floating 
barrels  of  flour  are  often  seen  in  the  Mississippi;  and  hun- 
dreds of  barrels  of  wheat,  and  hogsheads  of  tobacco,  lie  on 
its  shores  in  a  state  of  ruin. 


302  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

The  thunder  and  lightning  which  prevail  on  this  river 
are  truly  grand;  and  the  sunken  islands  here  are  interest- 
ing. This  effect  was  produced  by  the  earthquakes,  which 
were  experienced  in  the  west  in  1811.  The  traveller  too, 
on  the  bank  of  Mississippi,  frequently  sees  huge  masses 
of  earth  fall  from  them  into  the  bed  of  the  river.  These 
masses  sometimes  constitute  an  acre,  and  are  covered  with 
a  heavy  growth  of  trees.  The  noise,  occasioned  by  the 
falling  of  the  banks,  is  as  loud  as  distant  thunder,  [196] 
but  far  more  impressive.  It  speaks  of  nature's  final  grave. 

There  are  other  dangers  incident  to  the  navigation  of  the 
Mississippi.  The  falling  banks  frequently  crush  the  boats 
laying  along  side  of  them.  Boats  too,  are  sometimes 
dashed  to  pieces  upon  huge  masses  of  wood,  which,  hav- 
ing lodged  near  the  shore,  continue  to  accumulate  so  as 
to  produce  near  them  a  very  rapid  current.  The  fogs, 
which  sometimes  exist  on  this  river,  are  so  thick  that  one 
cannot  see  an  object  at  the  distance  of  fifty  feet.  The 
whirlpools  in  the  Mississippi  appear  formidable;  but  they 
are  not  sufficiently  large  to  endanger  boats  of  a  consider- 
able size. 

The  general  aspect  of  the  country  on  both  sides  of  the 
Mississippi,  from  its  junction  with  the  Ohio  to  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico,  is  perfectly  level  and  exceedingly  rich.  A  very 
few  situations  near  the  river  are  higher  than  the  adjacent 
country,  and  the  soil  of  these  eminences  is  sandy  and 
sterile.  The  timber  in  this  part  of  the  country,  is  in  some 
places  very  large,  but  generally  it  is  small,  and  appar- 
ently young.  The  soil  here  is  subject  to  such  fre- 
quent revolutions,  that  sufficient  time  is  not  allowed  for 
trees  to  obtain  their  full  growth.  The  banks  of  the  river 
are  not,  generally,  high  enough  to  warrant  settlements 
upon  them;  consequently  almost  the  whole  country,  from 
the  Ohio  to  Natches,  is  a  pathless  wilderness.  This  is 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  303 

particularly  the  case  with  respect  to  the  western  bank  of 
the  river.  Much  of  the  Louisiana  purchase  is  not  worth 
a  cent. 

Below  Natches,  there  are  a  great  many  superb  planta- 
tions, and  the  country  is  under  a  high  state  of  cultivation. 
Here,  however,  the  water  of  the  river  is  confined  to  its  bed 
by  a  levee,  or  embankment. 

[197]  The  cane  thickets  near  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi 
are  very  luxuriant;  and  the  extensive  groves  of  willows 
upon  them  form  an  impervious  shade,  and  present  a 
gloomy  aspect. 

About  fifty  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  stands  New  Madrid.145  Ow- 
ing to  destructive  freshets  and  other  causes,  it  is  unflour- 
ishing. 

After  leaving  this  side  of  the  river,  I  entered  Tennessee 
on  the  east.  This  state  is  bounded  on  the  Mississippi, 
from  the  Iron  Banks  to  one  of  the  Chickasaw  Bluffs,14*  a 
distance  of  about  one  hundred  miles.  The  length  of  the 
state  is  four  hundred  miles.  That  part  of  Tennessee, 
which  lies  on  the  Mississippi,  is  a  perfect  wilderness,  and 
inhabited,  principally,  by  Indians.  In  and  near  this  part 
of  the  state  reside  the  Cherokees  and  Chickasaws.  The 
Chickasaws  have  always  been  well  disposed  towards  the 
United  States,  and  their  physiognomy  and  general  appear- 
ance are  much  in  their  favour.  The  language  of  this 
tribe,  and  of  the  Choctaws  is  very  similar.  The  Chero- 
kees were  once  very  numerous;  but  being  much  disposed 
to  war,  and  frequently  contending  unsuccessfully  with  the 
northern  Indians,  their  numbers  have  become  small,  and 
their  spirits  broken.  The  Chickasaws  are  likewise  the 

145  On  the  founding  of  New  Madrid,  see  Cuming's  Tour,  note  185. —  ED. 
148  See  Cuming's   Tour,   notes   188,    189,  for  information  regarding  these 
bluffs.—  ED. 


304  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  & 

remnant  of  a  great  tribe.  They  originally  resided  further 
west;  and  were  slaughtered  by  the  Spaniards,  towards 
whom  they  still  entertain  much  hatred.147 

The  principal  rivers  which  run  directly  from  the  state 
of  Tennessee  into  the  Mississippi,  are  the  Obian,  Forked, 
and  Wolf  rivers.  Just  below  the  latter  is  Fort  Pike.14* 
Some  parts  of  Tennessee  are  so  mountainous  as  to  be  even 
incapable  of  cultivation ;  but  its  soil  generally  is  fertile,  and 
on  the  banks  of  the  rivers  very  rich.  Some  of  its  moun- 
tains are  stupendous.  The  state  is  exceedingly  well 
watered;  [198]  and  its  principal  rivers  are  the  Mississippi, 
Tennessee,  Cumberland,  Holston,  and  Clinch.  The  face 
of  the  country  is  uneven,  and  presents  a  pleasing  variety 
of  aspect.  Although  its  eminences  are  fertile,  and  its 
levels  rich,  it  contains  some  barrens,  similar  to  those  of  the 
Carolinas  and  Georgia.  The  productions  of  this  state  are 
unlike  to  those  of  Ohio;  and  it  also  produces  large  quan- 
tities of  cotton,  tobacco,  and  some  indigo.  It  is  too, 
well  calculated  for  rice.  Its  commerce  is  similar  to  that 
of  Kentucky;  but  it  derives  many  of  its  foreign  goods 
from  Virginia,  by  the  way  of  Richmond,  as  well  as  from 
Philadelphia,  and  Baltimore,  by  that  of  Pittsburg. 

Indigo  is  raised  upon  a  rich,  deep,  and  mellow  soil  well 
pulverized.  The  seed  is  sown  in  beds,  during  the  month 
of  April.  The  stalk  is  cut  three  times  a  year,  and  steeped 
for  eight  and  forty  hours.  The  impregnated  liquor  is  then 
drawn  off,  and  lime  water  added,  to  produce  a  separation 
of  the  particles  of  indigo  from  the  aqueous  fluid.  This 
fluid  is  then  again  drawn  off,  and  the  indigo  spread  to  dry. 
Afterwards  it  is  pressed  into  boxes,  and  whilst  soft,  cut 

147  An  interesting  description  of  these  Southern  Indian  tribes  may  be  found 
in  Roosevelt,  Winning  of  the  West  (New  York,  1889),  i,  pp.  49-69.     See  also, 
brief  notes  in  our  volumes  i,  pp.  34,  75;  iv,  p.  287. —  ED. 

148  Fort  Pike  was  maintained  for  only  a  few  years.     The  location  proving 
undesirable,  the  troops  were  removed  to  Fort  Pickering. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  305 

into  square  pieces.  Finally,  these  pieces  are  placed  in  the 
sun,  until  they  become  hard,  and  then  are  packed  for  the 
market. 

The  state  of  Tennessee  is,  in  many  respects,  peculiar. 
It  will  become  a  great,  and  a  polished  republic.  Its  moun- 
tains, rivers,  minerals,  fossils,  botany,  zoology,  and  natural 
curiosities,  all  promise  developments  of  much  interest  to 
the  philosopher,  politician,  and  man  of  science. 

In  marching  through  the  woods,  near  the  banks  of  the 
Mississippi,  nature  presents,  to  the  traveller  from  the  east, 
a  novel  aspect.  In  moving  hundreds  of  miles,  he  does  not 
see  a  single  rise  of  land.  His  eye  is  pained  by  the  absence 
of  variety;  and  he  feels  [199]  that  he  would  undergo  much 
labour  to  obtain  the  prospect  of  a  hill-country.  Here  too, 
in  the  spring  and  summer,  he  sees  nothing  around  him  but 
the  most  umbrageous  growth  of  trees,  bushes,  and  cane. 
The  earth  here  teems  with  a  sickening  luxuriance ;  and  the 
perpetual  hum  of  myriads  of  musquetoes,  and  other  in- 
sects, renders  the  rays  of  the  sun  doubly  oppressive.  The 
musquetoes  near  the  Mississippi  are  very  large,  and  not 
at  all  ceremonious.  When  in  the  woods,  my  nights  were 
rendered  completely  sleepless  by  them. 

In  bathing  in  this  river,  I  found  the  water  remarkably 
soft.  It  is  well  known  that  the  human  body  is  much  less 
buoyant  in  fresh  than  in  salt  water;  but  the  water  of  the 
Mississippi  is  conspicuous  in  this  respect :  many  persons, 
who  were  good  swimmers,  have  fallen  into  this  river,  and 
in  a  moment  were  seen  no  more.  After  travelling  in  the 
heated  wood,  and  being  much  bitten  by  musquetoes,  I 
found  bathing  in  the  Mississippi  very  refreshing.  The 
water  of  this  river  is  always  thick,  so  that  a  tumbler  full  of 
it  will  deposit -a  sediment  of  one  sixteenth  part  of  the 
whole.  It  is,  however,  not  very  unpalateable,  and  is,  I 
think,  not  unwholesome. 


306  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

The  fish  in  this  river  are  numerous,  and  large;  but  they 
are  too  fat  to  be  delicate.  Geese,  ducks,  and  swan,  are 
also  numerous  here.  The  latter  are  very  beautiful.  Wild 
ducks,  with  their  broods,  are  frequently  seen  moving  in 
the  coves  of  the  river,  and  numerous  paroquets  occupy 
the  trees  on  its  banks. 

The  swan  is  well  known;  but  pleasure  is  derived  from 
dwelling  upon  the  beauties  of  this  bird.  There  is  nothing 
very  interesting  in  its  colour;  but  its  milk-white  feathers, 
connected  with  its  large  size,  renders  this  species  of  bird 
an  object  of  attention  even  in  this  respect.  The  grace  of 
its  motions,  however,  [200]  is  indescribably  charming. 
The  mild  majesty  of  its  appearance,  when  moving  upon 
the  calm  and  glassy  bosom  of  the  water,  and  the  wonder- 
ful elegance  of  the  positions  and  motions  of  its  neck,  ex- 
cite admiration.  Poets  feign,  that  the  swan,  in  the  hour 
of  death,  beguiles  the  pains  of  dissolution  with  the  most 
plaintive  notes.  It  is  no  doubt  true,  that  her  voice,  at  such 
a  season,  charms  the  ear  of  those  who  love  to  feel  innocent 
and  resigned.  The  ways  of  nature  are  wonderful;  and  she 
enables  man,  by  her  operations,  to  catch  some  faint  im- 
pression,—  to  receive  some  prophetic  foretaste  of  the  sub- 
limity of  her  principles,  and  the  eloquence  of  her  senti- 
ments. 

The  paroquet  is  smaller,  and  more  beautiful  than  the 
common  parrot.  They  go  in  flocks,  and  their  notes  are 
rapid,  harsh,  and  incessant.  It  is  remarkable,  that  this 
bird  is  subject  to  a  disease  resembling  apoplexy. 

There  is  much  music  near  the  Mississippi.  Amidst  the 
silence  of  the  wood,  rendered  even  more  impressive  by  the 
umbrageous  aspect  of  the  trees,  by  the  teeming  earth,  the 
darting  serpent,  the  creeping  turtle,  and  the  hum  of  in- 
numerable insects;  —  amidst  this  silence,  the  bag-pipe,  or 
violin,  or  fife,  strikes  the  ear  with  an  almost  celestial  sound. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  307 

Sometimes  the  busy  silence  of  nature  is  interrupted  by  the 
fall  of  a  bank  of  the  river;  and  sometimes  the  whoop  of 
the  Indian,  hunting  in  the  wood,  tells  the  traveller  to  tread 
lightly  in  his  path. 

On  board  of  a  boat,  on  the  Mississippi,  into  which  I 
stepped  for  a  few  hours,  there  was  a  lad  from  the  High- 
lands of  Scotland.  He  had  with  him  his  bag-pipe, 
trimmed  with  plaid,  and  he  tuned  his  instrument  to  several 
interesting  airs,  connected  with  the  history  of  his  country. 
During  his  exhibitions,  there  was  in  his  countenance  some- 
thing singularly  wrapt,  which,  to  those  acquainted  with 
the  fortunes,  manners,  [201]  and  national  characteristics 
of  the  Scotch,  could  not  fail  to  produce  much  effect. 

Whilst  in  Tennessee  I  met  with  a  whole  tribe  of  Indians, 
who  were  about  going  to  war  with  some  tribe  situated 
north-west  of  them.  As  they  were  about  to  cross  the 
Mississippi,  some  persons  on  board  of  a  descending  boat 
whooped  at  and  insulted  them.  The  Indians  fired  upon 
the  boat,  but  no  injury  was  done.  How  natural  is  it  to 
man  to  persecute  the  unfortunate  and  weak !  How  natural 
is  the  abuse  of  power!  The  Indians  are  a  wronged,  and 
an  insulted  people.  Their  cruelties,  no  doubt,  surpass  de- 
scription.—  Their  conduct  is  by  no  means  justifiable;  but 
how  can  we  rationally  expect  from  them  that  human  mode 
of  warfare,  which  is  the  consequence  of  civilization? 
Their  revenge,  is  the  natural  effect  of  their  weakness. 
They  improve  every  opportunity  to  lessen  that  power, 
which,  they  fear,  is  destined  to  destroy  them.  And  what 
should  they  do  with  prisoners  ?  They  have  no  extraor- 
dinary means  of  feeding  them,  and  no  castles  for  their 
confinement.  Besides,  think  of  the  examples  which  have 
been  set  them  by  England,  by  France,  by  Spain,  and  by 
America.  Many  a  harmless,  humane,  and  magnanimous 
Indian,  has  been  murdered,  in  cold  blood,  by  the  sons  of 


308  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

civilization;  and  many  a  charge  of  robbery  and  murder, 
committed  by  white  men,  has  been  made  against  the 
peaceable,  and  inoffensive  children  of  the  forest.  But  I 
wish  to  be  understood,  that  I  believe  the  disposition  of  the 
General  Government  of  the  United  States  towards  the 
Indians,  to  have  ever  been  fair  and  friendly. 

The  boatmen  on  the  western  waters  are  great  marks- 
men, and  pride  themselves  in  sharp  shooting.  One  morn- 
ing, whilst  on  the  Mississippi,  a  solitary  little  duck,  prob- 
ably not  a  fortnight  from  the  shell,  passed  the  bows  of  the 
boat,  on  board  of  which  I  [202]  then  was,  and  the  captain 
immediately  raised  his  rifle  to  blow  this  little  being  to 
pieces.  How  wanton  in  cruelty  is  man!  The  young 
duck,  conscious  of  its  danger,  plied,  with  all  its  might,  its 
little  feet  and  wings.  I  pitied  its  pert  and  apprehensive 
spirit,  and  seizing  the  captain's  gun  said,  he  is  yours, — 
I  will  give  you  a  dollar  for  him  as  he  is.  The  captain  ac- 
cepted my  offer,  and  the  little  duck  hiding  himself  under 
the  reeds  of  the  shore,  we  passed  on. 

After  being  sometime  in  Tennessee,  I  crossed  the  river, 
and  entered  the  Missouri  Territory.  There  is  no  great 
difference  between  the  soil  and  aspect  of  the  country  here, 
and  those  of  the  Tennessee  side  of  the  Mississippi.  In 
the  latter,  however,  there  are  some  rises  of  land,  called 
banks  and  bluffs,  which  present  a  sandy  and  an  unproduc- 
tive appearance.  The  bluffs  are  known  by  the  words  first, 
second,  third,  and  fourth  bluff.  The  aspect  of  the  sec- 
ond one  is  interesting,  and  is  evidently  one  of  the  ends  of 
those  mountainous  ridges  in  Tennessee,  which,  passing 
into  South-Carolina  and  Georgia,  terminate  in  the  vast 
savannas  of  the  Alabama  and  Appalachicola. 

The  musquetoes  are  more  troublesome  on  the  Missouri 
than  on  the  Tennessee  side  of  the  river.  The  smoke  of 
my  fire  would  hardly  keep  them  at  a  respectful  distance; 


1818]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  309 

and  the  only  way  to  avoid,  by  night,  being  completely 
blinded  by  them,  was,  to  cover  my  face  with  small  bushes. 
No  covering  of  cloth  could  resist  their  stings. 

The  river  near  the  lower  part  of  the  Missouri  Territory 
is  very  crooked,  and  the  islands  numerous.  These  islands 
are  formed  by  the  current,  during  freshets,  cutting  through 
the  soil  and  making  new  channels  for  itself.  The  islands 
are  covered  with  trees  and  bushes,  but  are  low,  and  fre- 
quently overflown.  Near  some  of  these  islands  I  saw 
many  pelicans.  [203]  This  bird  interested  me  because  it 
is  both  a  scriptural  and  poetical  bird.  David  said,  "I 
am  like  a  pelican  of  the  wilderness,"  and  the  poets  of  fab- 
ulous times  supposed  that  she  nourished  her  young  with 
her  own  blood. 

The  seasons  of  the  greatest  rise  of  the  Mississippi  are 
early  in  the  spring,  and  in  July.  During  the  latter  period 
the  crops  are  on  the  ground,  and  of  course  much  damage 
is  sustained.  But  here  I  may  again  observe,  that  the 
country  on  the  Mississippi,  for  a  thousand  miles  below 
the  Ohio,  is,  with  a  very  few  exceptions,  a  perfect  wilder- 
ness; and  that  much  of  it  will  never  admit  of  cultivation. 
The  rise  of  the  river,  frequently  appears  to  be  occasioned 
by  some  secret  causes,  operating  beneath  the  surface. 
Indeed  it  is  to  be  presumed,  that  many  of  the  sources  of 
the  river  proceed  from  under  the  surface  of  the  adjacent 
land. 

On  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  I  frequently  passed  the 
graves  of  the  boatmen.  The  rudely  sculptured  monu- 
ments of  their  lowly  dwelling,  prove  that  there  is  still 
charity  for  the  dead;  and  that  a  fellow-feeling  seldom 
leaves,  under  any  circumstance,  the  human  breast."' 

141  In  the  day  of  the  flatboat,  a  craft  which  went  down  stream  and  never  re- 
turned, it  was  customary  for  the  boatmen  to  return  by  land.  This  journey  was 
often  undertaken  at  unhealthy  seasons  of  the  year,  and  the  death  of  boatmen 
and  raftsmen  was  common.  As  the  travellers  usually  carried  large  sums  of 


310  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

Having  progressed  some  way  in  the  Missouri  Territory, 
I  again  crossed  the  river,  and  entered  the  Indian  Village 
at  one  of  the  Chickasaw  Bluffs.  The  settlement  here  is 
considerable;  and  the  Chickasaws,  being  friendly  to  the 
United  States,  evince  in  their  appearance,  the  beneficial 
consequences  of  a  peaceful  policy.  White  men  of  little 
or  no  reputation  frequently  intermarry  with  this  tribe;  and 
the  Indians  are  much  pleased  with  the  connexion.  On 
this  Bluff  is  situated  Fort  Pickering.150 

The  evenings  in  this  part  of  the  country  are  delightful ; 
especially  in  the  woods,  far  from  the  haunts  of  men.  The 
aspect  of  the  heavens  is  here  [204]  peculiarly  serene;  and 
the  human  mind  is  disposed  to  dwell  upon  the  power, 
wisdom,  and  goodness  of  God ;  the  station  of  man  in  the 
scale  of  being;  his  probationary  state,  with  all  its  relations 
and  events;  and  his  hopes  of  happiness  beyond  the  grave. 

The  traveller,  in  proceeding  from  a  cold  to  a  warm  cli- 
mate, is  forcibly  impressed  by  a  sense  of  the  revolutions  of 
the  seasons;  especially  if  he  commences  his  tour  in  the 
midst  of  winter.  Those  who  are  acquainted  with  astron- 
omy, who  know  what  are  the  effects  of  the  annual  motion 
of  the  earth;  and  particularly  the  beneficial  consequences 
of  its  declination,  will,  if  they  have  any  sense  of  moral 
power  and  goodness,  unite  with  Milton  in  his  sublime 
fiction :  — 

"Some  say  He  bid  his  angels  turn  askanse 
The  poles  of  earth,  twice  ten  degrees  and  more, 
From  the  sun's  axle;  they,  with  labour, 
Push'd  oblique  the  central  globe." 

The  remembrance  of  those  aspects  in  nature,  which  are 
peculiar  to  the  various  seasons  of  the  year,  are  delightfully 

money,  their  routes  were  beset  by  robbers  who  could,  undoubtedly,  have  ex- 
plained many  a  grave  on  these  lonely  roads. — Hulbert,  Historic  High-ways  of 
America,  ix,  pp.  125,  126. —  ED. 

150  For  port  Pickering,  see  Cuming's  Tour,  note  192. —  ED. 


1 8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  311 

painful.  There  is  a  religious  influence  in  them; — they 
are  connected  with  the  recollection  of  a  thousand  events 
which  mark  the  stages  of  man's  pilgrimage  through  life. — 
The  winds  of  spring;  the  autumnal  evening;  the  equinoc- 
tial gale;  the  frozen  ground;  the  January  thaw;  all  elo- 
quently speak  of  childhood,  the  vicissitudes  of  time,  and 
of  a  better  world. 

In  addition  to  the  difficulties,  attending  the  navigation 
of  the  Mississippi,  already  mentioned,  there  are  here  many 
bends,  points,  and  sand  bars,  which  cause  the  current  to 
set  in  a  great  variety  of  directions,  and  render  necessary, 
not  only  constant  watchfulness,  but  much  practical 
knowledge. 

[205]  Whilst  in  the  Missouri  Territory,  and  not  far  from 
the  bank  of  the  river,  a  bald  eagle,  perched  upon  a  tall  and 
blasted  oak,  attracted  my  attention.  It  was  in  the  fore- 
noon, and  he  viewed  the  sun  with  an  unblinking  eye. 
Whilst  I  was  admiring  the  strength  of  his  form,  and  the 
majesty  of  his  aspect,  a  wild  turkey  flew  from  a  neighbour- 
ing tree,  and  alighted  on  the  ground.  The  eagle  imme- 
diately pounced  upon  his  prey;  but  ere  he  could  effect  his 
object  the  turkey  was  shot.  I  might  too,  have  killed  the 
eagle,  but  admiration  and  awe  prevented  me.  I  felt  that 
he  was  the  emblem,  and  the  inspiration  of  my  country; 
and,  at  that  moment,  I  would  not,  for  ten  thousand  worlds 
like  ours,  have  cut  a  feather  of  his  wing. 

There  is  something  wonderfully  impressive  in  the  nature 
of  this  bird ;  and  it  is  not  surprising  that  the  Romans  were 
devoted  to  it.  When  quite  a  lad,  I  mortally  wounded  an 
eagle,  supposing  it  to  be  a  hawk.  It  was  a  half  hour  be- 
fore it  died,  and  during  this  time  my  heart  was  filled  with 
mingled  emotions  of  regret  and  awe.  I  felt  as  though  I 
were  witnessing  the  last  moments  of  some  mountain  hero, 
who  had  fallen  upon  the  hills  of  his  fame.  This  noble 


3 1 2  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

bird  fixed  his  eyes  upon  me,  and  without  a  single  blink 
supported  the  pangs  of  death  with  all  the  grandeur  of  for- 
titude. I  could  not  endure  his  aspect, —  I  shrunk  into  my 
own  insignificance,  and  have  ever  since  been  sensible  of 
my  inferiority. 

After  remaining  a  day  or  two  on  this  side  of  the  river,  I 
crossed  it  and  entered  the  State  of  Mississippi.  This  state 
is  bounded  by  this  river  west;  north  by  Tennessee;  east 
by  Georgia;  and  south  by  West-Florida.  The  principal 
rivers  in  this  state  are  the  Yazoo,  Pearl,  Big  Black,  Tom- 
becbee,  and  Alabama.  The  grand  chain  of  mountains, 
called  the  Alleghany,  terminates  in  this  state.  On  the 
[206]  Tombecbee  is  situated  Fort  Stoddard.151  The  city  of 
Natches  is  the  only  considerable  settlement  in  this  state. 
The  aspect  of  the  country  is  level,  and  generally  very 
fertile;  but  some  parts  of  it  are  sandy  and  unproductive. 
Its  principal  products  are  tobacco,  cotton,  indigo,  and 
rice.  Live  oak  of  the  best  quality  abounds  here.  In 
this  state  are  tribes  of  the  Creeks,  Cherokees,  Choctaws, 
and  Chickasaws.  These  tribes  are  acquainted  with  agri- 
culture, and  with  some  manufactures.  The  Natches 
Indians,  formerly  a  powerful,  and,  in  many  respects,  a 
civilized  people,  were  exterminated  by  the  French  in 
I730.182  The  Creek  Indians  consist  of  about  twenty 
tribes,  who  united  for  the  purpose  of  exterminating  the 

1U  Fort  Stoddard  was  built  in  1799  by  Captain  Shaumburg,  U.  S.  A.,  on 
the  Mobile  Riverj  at  the  Spanish  boundary  line  provided  in  the  treaty  of  1795, 
and  was  named  in  honor  of  the  acting  secretary  of  war.  It  was  a  port  of  entry 
until  Mobile  became  part  of  the  United  States. —  ED. 

1B  For  the  early  history  of  the  city  of  Natchez,  see  F.  A.  Michaux's  Travels, 
vol.  iii  of  our  series,  note  53. 

The  Natchez  Indians,  of  Maskoki  stock,  were  first  encountered  by  the  French 
near  the  present  city  of  their  name.  In  1729  they  fell  upon  the  French  garri- 
son and  massacred  them  all.  The  following  year  the  French  army  took  a  ter- 
rible revenge,  a  remnant  only  of  the  tribe  escaping.  For  full  account,  see  Gay- 
arre',  History  of  Louisiana  (rev.  ed.,  New  Orleans,  1903),  i,  pp.  396-440.—  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  3 1  3 

Choctaws.  The  names  of  these  tribes  are  derived  from 
those  of  several  rivers  in  the  states  of  Georgia  and  Mis- 
sissippi, and  the  whole  are  called  Creeks,  from  the  great 
number  of  streams  which  pass  through  these  parts  of  the 
country.  They  are  sagacious,  bold,  and  jealous  of  their 
rights.  General  Jackson  has  made  great  havoc  among 
them. 

On  the  twenty-sixth  of  May  I  passed  through  a  little 
settlement  called  Point  Sheco.  Vegetation  here  was,  at 
this  time,  very  backward.  The  inhabitants  are  princi- 
pally French.  The  small-pox  prevailed  among  them, 
and  they  appeared  sallow  and  emaciated.  The  land 
here  is  very  rich;  but  indolence  characterizes  the  place. 
The  people,  however,  possess  many  herds  of  fine  cattle, 
and  much  poultry.  The  musquetoes  here  are  literally 
intolerable.  My  journal  says,  ''they  are  three  times  as 
large  as  Yankee  musquetoes;  my  face,  neck,  hands,  and 
feet  are  covered  with  then*  inflictions,  and  for  several 
nights  I  have  not  slept  a  moment."  The  people  in 
this  part  of  the  country  always  sleep  under  close  curtains, 
called  musquetoe  bars. 

The  Mississippi,  a  little  below  this  place,  is  very  [207] 
wide  and  expansive.  I  have  spoken  of  its  islands.  There 
are  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  between  the  mouth  of 
the  Ohio  and  New-Orleans.  These  islands  are  some- 
times formed  by  the  lodgment  of  floating  trees  upon  a 
bank  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  and  by  after  accumulations 
of  the  various  substances  which  freshets  bring  from  the 
country  above.  The  river  here  deposits  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  floating  soil  to  produce  vegetation,  and  the  island 
is  soon  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  bushes  and  trees. 
The  current  of  the  Mississippi  moves  from  three  to  five 
miles  an  hour,  according  to  the  rise  and  fall  of  its  water. 
I  have  also  spoken  of  the  boats  on  this  river.  They  are 


314  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

as  various,  and  their  number  as  great,  as  on  the  Ohio. 
The  usual  passage  of  barks,  and  barges,  from  New- 
Orleans  to  the  mouth  of  the  Cumberland,  on  the  Ohio,  is 
ninety  days;  sometimes,  however,  they  are  six  months  in 
getting  up  thus  far,  and  sometimes  lose  all  their  hands  on 
the  way,  by  sickness.  These  boats  generally  carry  from 
sixty  to  seventy  men  each,  whose  compensation  is  from 
fifty  to  eighty  dollars  a  trip.  Many  old  sailors  prefer  this 
inland  navigation  to  that  of  the  ocean.  Here  they  spend 
their  second  childhood;  and  venture  only  on  those  little 
seas  which  met  the  earliest  efforts  of  their  boisterous 
career.  The  vessels  of  which  I  have  been  speaking,  are 
from  eighty  to  one  hundred  tons  burthen.  The  freight 
from  New-Orleans  to  the  Cumberland  is  about  five  dol- 
lars a  hundred  weight.  Down  the  river  the  price  is  fifty 
per  cent  less. 

The  cotton-wood  tree  abounds  near  the  Mississippi, 
and  is  said  to  be  the  New-England  poplar;  I  think,  how- 
ever, that  this  is  not  the  case.158  Here  too  are  bulrushes; 
such,  probably,  as  concealed  the  child  Moses  on  the  Nile. 
There  is  a  very  interesting  connexion  between  the  scenes 
and  productions  of  [208]  nature,  and  the  simple  stories  of 
inspiration.  In  view  of  it  the  enlightened  agriculturalist  is 
charmed.  The  situation  of  our  first  parents,  the  patri- 
archal days,  and  the  history  of  the  Judean  Shepherds, 
furnish  him,  whilst  he  is  tilling  his  ground  and  tending 
his  flocks,  with  sources  of  reflection,  which  at  once  delight 
his  mind,  improve  his  heart,  and  prepare  him  for  that 
state  of  innocence  and  love,  which  awaits  the  good  be- 
yond the  scenes  of  time. 

The  animal  and  vegetable  worlds  furnish  an  inexhaust- 
ible source  of  illustration  and  imagery;  and  in  the  scrip- 

183  The  cottonwood  is  a  member  of  the  poplar  family,  the  scientific  name 
being  Populus  monilijera. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  315 

tures,  they  are  employed  with  all  the  simplicity  of  truth, 
and  the  sublimity  of  inspiration. 

The  sight  of  the  bulrushes,  connected  with  several 
other  circumstances,  forcibly  reminded  me  of  the  River 
Nile,  and  the  story  of  that  forsaken  babe,  who,  by  the 
might  of  Heaven,  conducted  Israel  from  Egypt  to  the 
Promised  Land,  in  type  of  that  Great  Leader,  who  is  now 
calling  man  from  the  thraldom  of  iniquity  to  the  liberty  of 
the  heavenly  Canaan.  On  the  Mississippi  there  are  arks, 
and  alligators,  which  resemble  the  crocodile;  and  the  gen- 
eral appearance  of  this  river  is  similar  to  that  of  the  Nile. 

Not  far  from  the  Iron  Banks,  before  mentioned,  are 
the  Chalk  Banks;  and  a  little  below  the  latter  is  the 
Bayau  de  She. 

The  St.  Francis  is  the  principal  river  in  the  Missouri 
Territory,  excepting  the  river  of  this  name;  and  it  enters 
the  Mississippi  just  below  Tennessee.  It  is  navigable 
about  three  hundred  miles,  and  at  its  mouth  is  two  hun- 
dred yards  wide.  White  River  runs  in  the  same  direc- 
tion, and  enters  the  Mississippi  about  eighty  miles  below. 
Its  width  is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards. 

Whilst  in  the  state  of  Mississippi,  I  crossed  a  high, 
broken,  and  fertile  ground,  constituting  about  two  hun- 
dred acres. 

[209]  After  passing  over  hundreds  of  miles  of  country 
perfectly  level,  such  an  appearance  was  highly  gratifying. 
On  this  rise  of  ground  were  a  few  scattering  trees,  the 
kinds  of  some  of  which  I  had  never  before  seen.  Here 
grew  the  China  tree,  of  a  beautiful  appearance,  and  bear- 
ing fruit  of  an  inviting  aspect,  but  of  an  unpleasant  taste.154 
I  stopped  a  moment  to  receive  instruction  —  moral 
beauty  only  can  be  depended  upon. 

1M  The  China  tree  (Melia  azedaracK)  is  a  native  of  India,  and  much  cul- 
tivated in  the  Southern  states  for  its  shade. —  ED. 


3 1 6  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

This  situation  reminded  me  of  St.  Pierre's  interesting, 
and  affecting  story  of  Paul  and  Virginia.  On  one  of  the 
broken  ridges  of  this  rise  of  ground  stood  a  raven.  He 
looked  as  though  he  had  seen  a  hundred  winters,  and  his 
appearance  inclined  me  to  believe  Hesiod's  extravagant 
account  of  the  longevity  of  this  bird.  There  are  many 
interesting  ideas  in  relation  to  this  species  of  bird:  In  this 
country  they  build  on  high  trees;  and  in  Europe  in  old 
towers.  The  Romans  hold  them  in  high  estimation; 
and  God  employed  them  to  carry  food  to  the  Prophet 
Elijah. 

After  leaving  this  interesting  situation,  I  passed  a  place 
called  Point  Pleasant,  where  there  are  a  few  small  dwell- 
ing-houses.155 The  country  here  is  perfectly  level,  and 
the  river  wide  and  beautiful.  Here  I  met  with  many  live 
oaks,  so  valuable  for  ship  timber;  but  I  think  that  on  no 
part  of  the  Mississippi  do  they  so  abound  as  in  the  State 
of  Georgia.  This  species  of  tree  grows  tall  and  straight, 
and  has  but  a  very  few  branches;  these,  however,  are  gen- 
erally large,  and  well  calculated  for  knees  in  building. 

Between  this  situation  and  the  city  of  Natches  is  a 
place  in  the  river  called  the  Grand  Gulph.  Here  nature 
presents  an  aspect,  which  blends  the  sublime  and  beautiful. 
She  has  here,  with  a  majestic  air,  given  to  the  river  an 
expansive  bend;  and  renders  its  waters  wide,  deep,  and 
gentle.  On  one  side  of  it  she  presents  [210]  an  intermin- 
able lawn,  and  on  the  other  a  broken  hill,  thickly  covered 
with  a  variety  of  trees.  How  great  are  the  privileges  of 
man !  How  small  his  merit,  and  yet,  how  noble  his  nature ! 

The  expansive  calmness  of  this  scene,  viewed  from  the 
hill,  suggests  to  the  human  heart  great  and  deep  things, 
too  sublime  for  human  utterance. —  Things  which  point 

154  Point  Pleasant,  ten  miles  below  New  Madrid,  must  not  be  confounded 
with  the  point  of  that  name  at  the  mouth  of  Great  Kanawha  River. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  317 

to  the  future  development  of  mind,  to  the  high  destinies 
of  virtue,  and  to  the  nameless  peace  of  heaven.  When  on 
this  hill  it  was  evening;  and  the  moon,  mild  in  majesty, 
moved  in  an  unclouded  course.  She  seemed  to  say,  in 
the  language  of  Young,  "How  great, —  if  good,  is  man!" 
Under  such  circumstances  the  human  mind  sensibly  feels, 
that  every  thing,  by  the  sacred  and  benevolent  constitu- 
tion of  nature,  belongs  to  the  virtuous  man.  He  here 
dwells  upon  St.  Paul's  declaration,  "Ah1  is  yours!"  and 
fears  not  "life,  or  death,  or  principalities,  or  powers." 
The  good  man  has,  indeed,  every  thing  to  excite  his  hopes; 
and  if  his  mind  is  enlightened  by  science,  and  polished  by 
taste,  he  has  every  thing  to  excite  his  admiration. —  Is  he 
acquainted  with  architecture  ? —  "The  heavens  declare  the 
glory  of  the  Creator,  and  the  firmament  showeth  his  handy 
work."  Is  he  fond  of  music? — let  him  listen  to  that  of 
the  spheres.  Does  eloquence  charm  him  ? —  he  hears  the 
voice  of  God  in  his  own  heart,  persuading  him  to  be 
good. 

The  River  Arkansas  enters  the  Mississippi  from  the 
west,  about  one  hundred  miles  below  the  St.  Francis. 
This  river  is  certainly  navigable  about  five  hundred  miles, 
and  is,  probably,  from  fifteen  hundred  to  two  thousand 
miles  in  length.  The  country  on  this  river  will  hereafter 
be  known  for  its  productions  and  trade.16' 

A  little  below  this  river  is  the  Cypress  Bend.  Here 
grow  considerable  forests  of  this  interesting  [211]  tree. 
They  are  here  covered  with  moss,  and  suggest  the  ideas 
of  old  age  and  death.  The  growth  of  the  moss,  however, 
is  not  confined  to  this  species  of  tree;  and  it  probably  is 
created  by  some  peculiar  quality  in  the  atmosphere  of  the 
river.  This  moss  sometimes  grows  to  the  length  of  fifteen 

1M  For  an  exploration  of  Arkansas  River,  see  Nuttall's  Journal,  vol.  xiii  of 
our  series. —  ED. 


3 1 8  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

feet,  but  generally  is  much  shorter.  It  proceeds  from 
the  bark  of  the  tree,  and  as  to  its  formation  and  manner 
of  growth,  resembles  rock-weed  on  the  seashore.  Its 
colour  is  that  of  the  dove.  Being  fibrous,  it  is  laid  in 
water,  then  dried,  threshed,  and  used  as  a  substitute  for 
horse  hair  in  the  stuffing  of  mattresses,  &c.  It  is,  when 
well  prepared,  nearly  as  valuable  as  hair,  and  is  exported 
in  considerable  quantities.  The  sources  of  this  article  on 
the  Mississippi  are  inexhaustible,  whole  forests  are  here 
covered  with  it. 

In  this  part  of  the  country  too,  grows  the  celebrated 
plant  called  misletoe.  It  is  found  on  the  trunk  and 
branches  of  trees,  and  may  be  propagated  by  rubbing  its 
berries  against  the  bark.  This  is  frequently  done  by  the 
thrush,  in  wiping  its  bill  after  feeding  upon  them.  Ancient 
superstition  venerated  this  plant;  and  it  was  hung  upon 
the  neck  to  prevent  the  effect  of  witchcraft.  In  modern 
times  it  is  considered  good  for  epilepsy  and  other  diseases. 

In  several  places  near  the  Mississippi  there  are  situa- 
tions where  hurricanes  have  prevailed;  and  it  is  interest- 
ing to  see  the  contrast  between  their  desolated  path,  and 
the  smiling  aspect  of  the  contiguous  country.  In  some 
places  here  hundreds  of  lofty  trees  have  been  dashed  by 
the  hand  of  violence;  and  the  spectator  inspired  by  the 
view,  finds  a  source  of  regret  in  not  having  actually  wit- 
nessed the  grandeur  of  ruin's  march. 

Great  minds  only  imitate  the  grand  in  nature.  She 
never  proclaims  her  works,  but  leaves  them  to  [212]  speak 
for  themselves.  Sampson  possessed  a  portion  of  her 
spirit.  Upon  his  journey  to  Timnath,  he  slew  a  lion;  but 
passing  on,  told  neither  father  nor  mother  of  it. 

After  having  experienced,  for  several  weeks,  much 
labour  and  many  privations,  I  arrived  at  the  city  of 
Natches,  which  is  situated  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  319 

Mississippi.  In  approaching  the  city,  from  the  banks  of 
the  river,  nothing  is  seen  but  a  village  of  ragged  buildings 
under  the  hill,  a  little  back  of  which  the  city  itself  is 
located.  This  hill  is  very  high,  and  steep,  and  its  soil  is 
sandy.  Along  the  banks  of  the  river,  under  the  hill,  the 
boats,  both  in  going  up  and  down,  frequently  stop,  either 
for  a  market,  or  information.  The  number  of  buildings 
here  is  about  one  hundred,  and  they  are  principally  occu- 
pied for  shops  and  boarding-houses  for  the  boatmen.  It 
is  perhaps  one  of  the  most  wretched  places  in  the  world. 

The  ascent  to  the  city  is  very  steep;  and  on  each  side  of 
the  road  are  considerable  precipices.  The  city  itself  is 
singular  in  its  aspect;  being  irregular,  and  having  large 
unoccupied  grounds  in  different  parts  of  it.  After  rising 
the  hill,  one  sees,  in  front,  a  wide  street  leading  into  the 
country;  on  the  left  a  spacious  grove  of  trees,  back  of 
which  is  a  precipice  of  two  hundred  feet ;  and  on  the  right 
of  the  grove  are  the  principal  streets  and  buildings.  Many 
of  the  houses  and  stores  are  large;  but  there  are  not  many 
buildings  here  which  can  be  termed  elegant.  The  court- 
house is  inconsiderable,  and  the  theatre  is  a  very  ordinary 
building.  In  the  evening  the  city  is  remarkably  silent. — 
Scarcely  a  person  is  to  be  seen  in  its  streets  after  dark. 
This  place  is  conspicuous  for  its  hospitality. 

Whilst  in  this  place  I  was  on  board  a  boat,  with  the 
captain  of  which  I  had  become  acquainted  at  the  [213] 
mouth  of  the  Cumberland.  To  this  gentleman,  a  foppish 
French  barber  introduced  himself;  and  played  with  his 
crew  a  pretty  deep  game.  The  barber  was  profoundly 
polite,  and  extremely  disinterested.  He  begged  the  cap- 
tain to  sit  down  and  have  his  hair  cut,  saying,  that  it  was 
"all  for  de  pleasure,"  and  that  he  "no  value  de  money," 
&c.  So  much  apparent  good  will,  although  troublesome, 
seemed  to  deserve  condescension;  and  the  captain  yielded 


320  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

to  the  importunity.  After  the  work  was  accomplished, 
payment  was  tendered,  and  refused;  the  barber  still 
insisting,  with  a  thousand  flourishes,  that  it  was  "all 
for  de  pleasure."  The  barber  then  turned  his  attention 
to  the  boatmen,  who  all  admired  his  liberality,  saying, 
"come  sare,  me  cut  your  hair  bery  vel."  The  boatmen, 
one  after  another,  sat  down;  the  Frenchman  all  the 
time  clipping  away  as  for  his  life,  grinning  like  a 
monkey,  and  declaring,  with  many  airs,  "me  barber  de 
Buonaparte !' '  After  the  barber  had  effected  his  object, 
and  had  rolled  up  his  napkin,  he,  with  much  gravity,  and 
an  altered  tone,  addressed  the  boatmen,  saying,  "yentle- 
men,  you  be  please  to  pay  me."  The  poor  fellows  were 
ashamed  to  acknowledge  their  mistake,  and  inquired 
how  much  it  was  a  piece.  The  Frenchman  replied,  with 
a  concerned  animation,  ' '  Oh  sare !  only  one  quarter 
dollar."  They  produced  their  money,  and  the  barber, 
well  pleased  with  his  success,  strutted  off. 

In  the  city  of  Natches  slaves  are  very  numerous.  There 
is  no  branch  of  trade,  in  this  part  of  the  country,  more 
brisk  and  profitable  than  that  of  buying  and  selling 
negroes.  They  are  a  subject  of  continual  speculation, 
and  are  daily  brought,  together  with  other  live  stock, 
from  Kentucky  and  other  places  to  the  Natches  and  New- 
Orleans  market.  How  deplorable  is  the  condition  of  our 
country!  —  [214]  So  many  bullocks,  so  many  swine,  and 
so  many  human  beings  in  our  market!  The  latter  are 
rated  in  our  prices  current. —  Enviable  distinction ! 

Notwithstanding  the  difficulties  so  frequently  sug- 
gested, relative  to  the  abolition  of  slavery  within  the  United 
States,  the  evil  can  easily  be  removed.  Let  the  people 
instruct  their  representatives  in  Congress  to  purchase  the 
freedom  of  every  slave  in  the  Union;  and  to  hold  the  slaves 
for  the  discharge  of  the  debt  thus  incurred :  each  individual 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  321 

of  them  to  receive  an  unconditional  manumission  as  soon 
as  they  shall,  by  their  labour,  offset  the  amount  paid  for 
them. 

The  law  under  which  the  purchase  should  be  made, 
ought  to  declare  the  slaves  to  be  free,  and  as  possessing  all 
the  rights  and  privileges  of  the  white  people  of  the  United 
States;  with  the  declaration,  however,  that  these  slaves 
are  individually  indebted  to  the  government,  according  to 
the  price  paid  for  each.  The  government  would  then  be 
the  guardian  of  the  blacks,  for  a  particular  purpose.  The 
latter  would  be  free;  they  would  have  no  master,  and  they 
might,  under  proper  regulations,  sue  for  any  invasion  of 
their  rights.  The  government  should,  in  the  supposed 
act,  provide  for  the  appointment  of  agents  in  all  the  slave- 
holding  states;  which  agents  should  contract  for  the  pur- 
chase of  the  slaves,  and  for  the  letting  of  their  services 
for  a  length  of  time  sufficient  to  cancel  the  debt  thus  in- 
curred. 

I  have  no  doubt  that  slave  holders  would,  generally, 
sell  their  slaves  to  the  United  States,  for  this  purpose, 
upon  liberal  terms.  Indeed,  I  know  it  to  be  a  fact,  that 
some  of  the  planters  would  deduct,  in  relation  to  this 
subject,  from  25  to  50  per  cent,  from  the  real  value  of  the 
slave.  Many  of  the  planters  too,  would  also  hire  the 
slaves  of  the  government  [215]  according  to  the  proposed 
plan.  Some  of  the  planters  prefer  hiring  to  purchasing 
negroes.  This  preference  is  grounded  upon  many  con- 
siderations. 

As  soon  as  the  slaves,  upon  the  supposed  plan,  should 
discharge  their  obligations  to  the  United  States,  they 
would  be  as  independent  as  any  of  her  citizens,  and  would 
let  their  services  upon  their  own  contracts,  and  according 
to  their  own  calculations. 

Some  may  object  to  having  so  many  free  blacks  in  the 


322  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

United  States;  but  I  think  that  no  danger  need  be  appre- 
hended from  them.  I  am  not  particularly  partial  to  blacks ; 
but  I  have  a  good  opinion  of  their  intelligence  and  disposi- 
tion. Much  of  their  bad  conduct  arises  from  their  being 
slaves.  Were  they  free,  they  would  be  more  industrious, 
more  honest,  and  would  have  no  extraordinary  grounds  for 
irritation  and  crime.  Besides,  being  free,  they  would  be 
much  less  numerous  in  one  place.  They  would  spread 
themselves  over  the  country.  Some  would  go  to  the  west 
and  east,  and  become  farmers  and  day  labourers;  some 
would  plough  the  ocean,  and  some  would  emigrate  to 
Europe,  and  perhaps  to  Africa.  Surely,  within  a  terri- 
tory so  vast  as  ours,  we  need  not  fear  a  population  so  lim- 
ited, even  if  it  were  a  population  hostile  to  the  country 
and  to  human  nature.  But  the  fact  is  otherwise.  They 
would  form  a  highly  valuable  population.  Under  proper 
systems  of  instruction,  they  would  become  as  virtuous  as 
any  class  of  white  people  in  the  United  States.  The  free 
blacks  in  the  West  Indies,  are  industrious  and  peaceable. 
It  is  the  case  too,  with  those  in  this  country;  and,  as  to  the 
abstract  question,  it  may  be  added,  that  the  freed  vassals 
of  Russia,  Denmark,  and  Sweden  are  equally  inoffensive. 

This  subject  suggests  many  ideas  in  opposition  to  popu- 
lar objections:  but  my  limits  will  not  permit  a  particular 
investigation  of  them. 

[216]  Under  the  system  proposed,  the  United  States 
need  not  incur  any  expense,  or  make  any  pecuniary  ad- 
vances. In  most  cases,  those  who  should  sell  their  slaves 
would  hire  them  of  the  government,  and  of  course  no 
money  need  be  advanced.  The  expense  of  transacting 
the  business,  and  also  the  interest  upon  any  advance  of 
cash,  might  be  added  to  the  amount  of  the  purchase. 
The  price  of  the  slaves  in  the  United  States  would  not, 
probably,  average  more  than  300  dollars  each. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  323 

I  know  it  to  be  the  case,  that  the  slave  holders,  generally, 
deprecate  the  practice  of  buying  and  selling  slaves,  and 
they  would,  no  doubt,  aid  the  government  in  its  efforts  to 
enfranchise  them. 

Should  the  government  act  upon  the  supposed  plan, 
she  would  greatly  increase  her  reputation  and  security; 
relieve  an  unfortunate  and  oppressed  portion  of  the 
human  race,  and  remove  forever  this  dark  stain  upon  her 
glory.  Should  she  make  this  uncostly  effort,  Freedom 
would  call  us  her  own  peculiar  people,  and  in  some  future, 
trying  day,  might  remember  and  defend  us. 

Why  do  we  boast  of  liberty,  when,  every  day,  we  violate 
its  most  sacred  principles  ?  As  it  is  in  our  power  to  give 
freedom  to  the  slaves  within  our  jurisdiction,  we  do,  by 
delaying  to  take  this  step,  sanction  and  support  their 
oppression.  Should  a  slave  endeavour  to  obtain  his  free- 
dom, which,  no  doubt,  he  has  a  right  to  do,  the  law  of  the 
land, —  the  whole  power  of  the  Union,  would  enforce  his 
obedience,  and  again  rivet  his  chains.  Oh,  cruel  nation ! 
Oh,  detestable  system!  The  slave  holder  cannot,  con- 
sistently with  the  law  of  the  land,  take  the  We  of  his 
slave;  but  he  may  scourge  him,  overwhelm  his  heart  with 
grief,  and  by  a  lingering  torture  bring  him  to  a  premature 
grave.  This  is  frequently  the  case.  Indeed,  slaves  are 
often  killed  [217]  at  once,  and  that  with  impunity.  How 
is  the  act  to  be  known,  when  it  is  committed  on  a  planta- 
tion? 

The  oppressor  is  hateful  to  the  eye  of  Heaven:  and 
Heaven's  justice  may  be  preparing  for  us  pestilence, 
famine,  and  subjugation.  The  wisdom  of  the  world,  the 
policy  of  states,  the  pride  of  birth,  the  love  of  wealth,  the 
calculations  of  avarice,  the  luxuries  of  indolence,  and  the 
thoughtlessness  of  inhumanity,  may  all  prate  about  the  in- 
expediency of  giving  freedom  to  the  slave ;  but  there  is  an 


324  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

Almighty  arm,  and  the  cause  of  the  oppressed  will  not 
always  be  unavenged. 

Whilst  in  Natches  I  met  with  a  company  of  Indians, 
of  the  Choctaw  tribe.  Most  of  them  were  intoxicated,  and 
all  highly  painted.  A  few  days  before  my  visit  to  this 
place,  an  Indian  had,  in  a  moment  of  passion,  murdered 
one  of  the  company.  The  law  of  the  tribe  declared  the 
act  worthy  of  death;  and  the  criminal  was  immediately 
called  upon  to  meet  his  fate.  With  a  fearless  and  com- 
posed aspect,  he  marched  off,  faced  his  executioners,  and 
opened  his  arms  to  receive  their  fire. —  In  a  moment  he 
was  a  dead  man.  It  is  a  singular  fact,  that  Indians 
when  condemned  to  die  for  the  violation  of  the  laws  of 
their  tribe,  never  attempt  to  escape. —  The  rules  of  edu- 
cation are  more  operative  than  those  of  legislatures. 

Before  I  left  Natches,  I  witnessed  an  interesting  race 
between  two  Indians.  Their  speed  was  very  great. 

Having,  in  the  course  of  my  tour,  seen  hundreds  of 
Indians,  both  of  the  northern  and  southern  tribes,  I  was 
able  to  form  an  opinion  as  to  their  relative  aspect.  The 
northern  Indians  are  more  athletic  than  the  southern. 
They  are  also  more  grave,  and  as  to  manner  resemble  the 
Germans.  The  southern  [218]  Indians  are  slender,  vol- 
atile, cunning,  vindictive,  and  in  their  manners  resemble 
the  Italians. 

In  Natches  there  are  a  great  many  Turkey  Buzzards; 
and  their  colour  and  tameness  remind  one  of  Pliny's  crows. 
The  Buzzard  is  nearly  as  large  as  a  small  turkey.  By 
day  these  birds  fly  about  the  city,  occasionally  lighting 
upon  the  houses,  and  in  the  yards,  like  pigeons.  Towards 
night  they  all  retire  to  the  highest  part  of  the  precipice 
fronting  the  river,  and  there  remain  until  the  morning. 
Seeing  them  thus  assembled,  suggests  the  idea  of  Milton's 
conclave  in  Pandemonium. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  325 

These  birds  are  very  useful  in  warm  climates,  as  they 
devour  animals  which  die  and  remain  upon  the  surface 
of  the  ground.  In  the  southern  states  they  are  numerous, 
and  are  protected  by  law. 

During  the  last  summer,  business  in  Natches  was  dull. 
But  the  constant  arrival  of  boats  from  up  and  down  the 
river,  gave  an  active  appearance  to  the  place.  The  profits 
attending  the  business  of  steam  boats  upon  the  western 
rivers  are  almost  beyond  belief;  but  the  competition  aris- 
ing from  this  circumstance  is  daily  lessening  them.  The 
steam  boats  move  with  so  much  velocity,  even  up  the  river, 
that  the  expenses  of  a  trip  are  not  great,  whilst  the  freight 
of  goods,  and  the  price  of  passage  are  very  high. 

I  think  there  can  be  no  doubt,  that  foreign  goods  will 
for  the  future,  be  transported  from  New-Orleans  to  the 
settlements  above,  in  steam  boats,  instead  of  proceeding 
down  the  rivers  from  the  east  and  south.  Although  the 
western  rivers  present  a  dangerous  navigation  to  steam 
boats,  yet  they  may  be  very  profitably  employed,  even 
after  paying  a  reasonable  premium  for  insurance,  and 
reducing  the  price  of  freight  thirty  per  cent. 

[219]  After  remaining  at  Natches  two  or  three  days,  I 
progressed  towards  New- Orleans.  About  sixty  miles  be- 
low the  former  are  Loftus'  Heights,  and  just  below  these, 
stands  Fort  Adams.157  Not  far  from  the  fort,  the  country 
becomes  in  some  measure  settled;  and  for  about  one 
hundred  miles  above  New-Orleans,  both  banks  of  the 
river  are  under  a  high  state  of  cultivation.  The  country 
continues  thus  cultivated  for  twenty  miles  below  the  city. 
The  plantations  within  these  limits  are  superb  beyond 
description.  Some  of  them  resemble  villages.  The 
dwelling  houses  of  the  planters  are  not  inferior  to  any  in 

187  For  a  brief  description  of  Loftus  Heights  and  Fort  Adams,  see  Cuming's 
Tour,  volume  iv  of  our  series,  note  211. —  ED. 


326  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

the  United  States,  either  with  respect  to  size,  architecture, 
or  the  manner  in  which  they  are  furnished.  The  gardens, 
and  yards  contiguous  to  them,  are  formed  and  decorated 
with  much  taste.  The  cotton,  sugar,  and  ware  houses 
are  very  large,  and  the  buildings  for  the  slaves  are  well 
finished.  The  latter  buildings  are,  in  some  cases,  forty 
or  fifty  in  number,  and  each  of  them  will  accommodate 
ten  or  twelve  persons.  The  plantations  are  very  ex- 
tensive, and  on  some  of  them  there  are  hundreds  of 
negroes.  The  planters  here  derive  immense  profits  from 
the  cultivation  of  their  estates.  The  yearly  income 
from  them  is  from  20,000  to  30,000  dollars.  Their  pro- 
duce is  sent  down  to  the  New-Orleans  market,  at  which 
place  prompt  payment  in  specie  is  immediately  realized. 
At  Natches  and  New-Orleans,  gold  and  silver  are  as 
plenty  in  the  market  as  any  other  article.  Some  of  the 
noted  plantations  above  mentioned  are  those  of  Balay, 
Arnold,  Baronge,  and  Forteus. 

The  plantations  on  the  Mississippi  produce  vast  quan- 
tities of  sugar  and  cotton.  The  latter  article  grows  in 
pods,  upon  a  stalk;  and  the  appearance  of  the  latter  is  not 
much  unlike  that  of  the  bean.  These  pods,  when  ripe, 
open;  and  the  cotton  is  then  [220]  gathered  from  the  stalk, 
and  separated  from  the  seeds  by  a  machine  which  will 
clean  1000  pounds  in  a  day.  An  acre  of  land  will  yield 
about  800  pounds. 

Cotton  is  sewed  in  drills  about  eight  feet  apart.  The 
seed  is  thrown  in  thick;  and  after  they  spring,  the  stalks 
are  thinned  so  as  to  make  them  eighteen  inches  apart. 
They  are  then  weeded,  and  the  earth  taken  from  the 
upper  roots,  so  as  to  leave  them  bare.  A  few  weeks  after 
this  process,  the  earth  is  hoed  up  to  the  stalk,  and  the 
roots  covered.  Then  there  is  a  third  hoeing  like  the  sec- 
ond. If  the  ground  is  well  prepared,  and  the  growth 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  327 

favourable,  the  rows  of  cotton,  when  fully  grown,  will 
nearly  meet  each  other. 

The  sugar,  cane  is  a  jointed  stalk,  not  unlike  that  of 
corn;  and  it  grows  from  three  to  seven  feet  in  length,  and 
from  one  half  inch  to  an  inch  in  diameter.  It  is  pithy,  like 
the  corn  stalk,  and  affords  a  copious  supply  of  juice.  No 
sweet  is  less  cloying,  and  no  vegetable  substance  so  nutri- 
tious as  the  sugar  cane. 

Sugar  is  cultivated  by  cuttings,  set  two  inches  from 
each  other,  in  drills  eight  feet  apart.  Each  cutting 
possesses  one  joint ;  and  one  setting  answers  for  two  years. 
In  getting  in  the  harvest  the  first  year,  the  stalks  are  cut 
within  about  eight  inches  of  the  ground.  In  the  produc- 
tion of  sugar,  the  stalks  are  passed  end  ways  through 
smooth  brass  nuts,  and  the  juice  thus  extracted  is  boiled 
down  to  a  thick  syrup.  It  is  then  put  into  other  vessels, 
and  as  it  becomes  cool,  it  forms  into  small  grains,  and 
thus  becomes  sugar.  Molasses  is  produced  from  the 
drainings  of  the  sugar;  and  after  this  process  there  is 
another  by  distillation;  and  here  rum  is  obtained.  The 
sugar  and  molasses  of  New-Orleans  are  celebrated  for 
their  excellence. 

[221]  Most  of  the  planters  on  the  lower  parts  of  the 
Mississippi  are  French;  and  there  are  in  New-Orleans, 
and  on  other  parts  of  the  river  many  French  people,  who 
have,  since  the  restoration  of  the  Bourbon  dynasty,  emi- 
grated thither  from  France.  Many  of  them  are  very 
interesting  characters. 

Before  reaching  Natches,  I  had  travelled  considerably 
in  the  state  of  Louisiana,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river; 
but  there  is  nothing  here  to  distinguish  it  from  the  lower 
part  of  the  Missouri  Territory. 

The  old  line  of  demarcation,  between  the  United  States 
and  Florida,  is  about  sixty  miles  below  Natches.  At 


328  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

Point  Coupe  on  the  right  side  of  the  river,  there  are  many 
elegant  dwelling-houses,  and  they  are  superbly  fur- 
nished.188 At  the  front  and  back  of  the  houses,  there  are 
piazzas,  and  the  doors  and  windows  extend  to  the  floor. 
In  summer  the  former  are  removed,  and  their  place  sup- 
plied with  duck,  which  excludes  the  sun,  and,  by  its 
motion,  creates  air.  In  the  front  yards  are  many  orna- 
mental trees,  and  the  yards  back  of  the  houses  are  rilled 
with  a  great  variety  of  domestic  fowls.  Here  one  almost 
supposes  himself  in  the  West-Indies. 

When  I  arrived  at  this  village,  the  weather  and  prospects 
were  delightful.  A  tree  in  blossom  there  presented  col- 
ours, the  powers  of  which  seen  at  a  distance,  are  indescrib- 
able. These  colours  wore  an  astonishing  combination  of 
crimson  and  pink;  and  viewed  through  the  medium  of  the 
sun's  reflection,  appeared  celestial.  How  great  and 
various  are  the  powers  of  the  human  eye,  when  aided  by 
fancy !  The  blossoms  of  Point  Coupe  spake  of  the  bright 
colours  of  heaven,  and  the  livery  of  angels. 

Opposite  this  settlement  is  Bayou  Sara;  and  here  there 
are  a  few  buildings. 

Not  far  from  these  situations  there  is  another  settle- 
ment; but  it  is  not  so  large  as  Point  Coupe.  [222]  When 
I  passed  through  it  the  weather  was  mild,  and  the  sun 
about  setting.  Large  herds  of  cattle  were  feeding  luxuri- 
antly upon  the  banks  of  the  river;  the  negroes  had  finished 
their  work,  and  some  of  them  were  wrestling  on  the  green, 
some  fishing  near  the  shore,  some  swimming  in  the  stream, 
and  some  running  their  horses.  The  scene  was  interesting. 

Above  Point  Coupe,  and  near  a  little  village,  called 
Tunica,  is  Red  River.  This  river  enters  the  Mississippi 
from  the  west,  and  is  navigable  to  a  great  distance.  About 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  its  mouth,  is  Nachito- 

168  On  Point  Coup6e,  see  Cuming's  Tour,  note  220. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  329 

ches.  Black  river  enters  the  Red  river  about  fifty  miles 
from  the  junction  of  the  latter  with  the  Mississippi. 
Red  river  is  becoming  of  considerable  note,  and  will,  in 
time,  furnish  much  produce  for  the  New-Orleans  market. 
A  little  below  this  river,  is  the  Bayou  Chafalia. 

On  the  east  of  the  Mississippi,  and  not  far  below  the 
old  line  of  demarcation,  is  Baton  Rouge.  About  the  same 
distance  above  this  line  is  Clarkeville.  Baton  Rouge  is 
a  very  considerable  place.  The  plantations  near  this  situ- 
ation are  superb  indeed.  The  buildings  upon  them  evince 
great  wealth,  and  refinement  in  modes  of  living.  Ships  of 
500  tons  sometimes  ascend  the  river  to  the  vicinity  of 
Baton  Rouge,  and  receive  from  the  plantations,  cargoes 
of  sugar  and  cotton.159  The  enclosed  fields  of  the  planters 
are  very  spacious,  and  highly  cultivated.  The  negroes 
upon  these  plantations  are  numerous;  and  vast  herds  of 
cattle  feed  upon  the  banks  of  the  river.  The  cattle  are 
large  and  beautiful.  The  horses  are  fleet,  and  well  cal- 
culated for  labour;  but  they  are  small,  and  far  from  being 
handsome. 

The  river  below  Baton  Rouge  is  very  spacious.  Here, 
towards  evening,  the  piazzas  and  porticos  of  the  dwelling- 
houses  are  filled  with  ladies.  Their  [223]  appearance, 
together  with  the  expansive  and  serene  aspect  of  the  river, 
the  mild  azure  of  the  heavens,  the  silver  moon,  rising  in 
the  majesty  of  meekness,  and  the  almost  celestial  music, 
which  proceeds  from  the  gently  gliding  boats,  remind 
one  of  primeval  innocence,  and  point  the  heart  to  that 
Being,  in  whose  smile  is  everlasting  life. 

In  this  part  of  the  country  there  are  many  Bayous, 
which  I  have  not  mentioned.  The  principal  of  them  are 
Manchac,  Plaquemine,  and  De  la  Fourche.  There  are 
here  also  many  churches,  some  of  which  are  Contrelle, 

189  For  an  account  of  Baton  Rouge,  consult  running's  Tour  note  215. —  ED 


330  Early  Western  Trawls  [Vol.8 

Bona  Cara,  and  Red  Church.  In  the  morning  and  even- 
ing, cavalcades  of  gentlemen  and  ladies,  may  frequently 
be  seen  going  thither,  to  attend  marriage  and  other  cere- 
monies. 

About  seventy  miles  below  Baton  Rouge,  the  country  is 
wonderfully  fine.  No  description  of  mine  can  do  justice 
to  the  appearance  of  its  principal  establishments.  There 
are  here  the  most  superb  dwelling  houses.  They  are  sec- 
ond to  none  in  size,  architecture,  or  decorations.  The 
gardens  attached  to  them  are  spacious,  and  elegantly 
ornamented  with  orange  and  fig  trees.  At  a  little  distance 
from  them  are  vast  buildings,  occupied  for  sugar  mills  and 
cotton  presses,  and  for  the  storage  of  the  immense  pro- 
ductions of  the  plantations.  Near  these,  are  from  fifty  to 
one  hundred  neat  buildings,  for  the  negroes,  beyond  them 
are  spacious  and  elegant  oblong  fields,  constituting  one 
hundred  acres,  and  under  the  highest  state  of  cultivation. 

In  many  places,  along  the  banks  of  the  river  are  large 
orange  groves,  and  here  almost  all  kinds  of  fruits  are 
raised  for  the  New-Orleans  market.  My  journal  says, 
this  is,  indeed,  a  fascinating  country!  Here  are  all  the 
splendours  of  wealth,  and  the  blandishments  [224]  of 
beauty:  but  to  the  rocky  land  of  my  birth,  my  heart  will 
ever  be  supremely  attached. 

Upon  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  there  is  a  luxuriant 
growth  of  white  clover,  which  feeds  thousands  of  cattle. 
These  cattle  drink  from  the  river.  Some  of  the  planters 
yearly  mark  thousands  of  calves,  and  send  them  into  the 
prairies  to  feed.  Here  their  maintenance  costs  nothing. 

The  cattle  of  this  part  of  the  country  are  not  often  fat. 
This  circumstance  is,  probably,  owing  to  many  causes; 
some  of  which  are,  their  being  much  troubled  by  flies,  not 
being  salted,  and  the  food  which  they  eat  being  of  rapid 
growth,  and  of  course  unsubstantial.  The  latter  does  not 


i8:8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  331 

possess  the  consistency  of  the  New-England  grass.  The 
flies  and  musquetos  on  the  Mississippi  are  so  numerous 
and  voracious,  that  nothing  is  more  common  here  than  to 
see  horses  tied  in  the  fields  to  feed,  and  a  small  fire  by 
them  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  at  a  distance  these  trou- 
blesome assailants. 

The  cattle  in  this  part  of  the  country  are  not  worth,  in 
the  market,  more  than  one  fourth  of  the  price  of  New- 
England  cattle.  The  cows  seldom  calve  more  than  once 
in  two  years,  and  they  give  very  little  milk.  The  milk  of 
a  Yankee  cow  will  make  more  butter  than  that  of  ten  of 
them. 

In  progressing  towards  the  tropics,  appearances  peculiar 
to  the  various  degrees  of  climate  were  continually  pre- 
senting themselves.  Many  kinds  of  trees,  flowers,  and 
grasses,  and  many  species  of  birds  and  quadrupeds,  en- 
tirely new  to  me,  made  their  appearance.  The  rains, 
winds,  thunder  and  lightning  too,  of  the  country,  towards 
the  equator,  are  peculiar.  The  latter  are  here  more  sud- 
den, loud,  and  vivid  than  those  of  the  north.  The  rains 
near  the  Mississippi  resemble,  in  a  measure,  those  of  the 
West-Indies.  Here  it  frequently  rains  violently  at  a  lit- 
tle [225]  distance,  whilst  where  one  stands  there  is  a  clear 
sun-shine.  These  showers  sound  quite  loud,  and  present 
an  interesting  appearance. 

I  have  repeatedly  spoken  of  the  slaves  in  the  south  and 
west.  Some  of  them  are  treated  kindly;  but  some  suffer 
all  the  evils  incident  to  this  wretched  condition.  All  the 
pride,  all  the  ill-nature,  all  the  petulance  of  man  are  fre- 
quently wreaked  upon  these  friendless  beings.  I  speak 
from  experience.  For  a  venial  fault,  I  have  witnessed 
cruel  inflictions.  Whilst  passing  a  plantation  on  the 
lower  part  of  the  Mississippi,  my  ears  were  assailed  by 
sounds  novel  and  distressing.  The  shriek  of  anguish,  and 


332  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

the  sound  of  the  hateful  lash  quickly  brought  me  to  the 
theatre  of  suffering.  There  I  witnessed  a  madning  sight. 
A  poor  negro,  fastened  to  the  ground,  in  vain  implored 
for  mercy;  whilst  an  iron-hearted  overseer,  enraged  by  his 
own  cruelty,  was  inflicting  unlimited  vengeance.  I  believe 
my  presence  unbound  the  victim. —  Shame  frequently 
achieves  what  conscience  cannot  accomplish.  I  could 
mention  cruelties  inflicted  upon  slaves,  which  would  ex- 
cite the  tears  of  humanity,  the  blush  of  virtue,  and  the 
indignation  of  freedom.  On  the  Mississippi  there  are 
large  oak  frames  for  whipping  slaves, —  without  law,  and 
without  any  rule,  excepting  that  of  self-will  and  uncon- 
trolled power. 

Man,  when  uncontrolled,  is  a  tyrant;  and  no  human 
being  should,  for  a  moment,  be  without  the  protection  of 
natural,  or  municipal  law. 

There  are  prejudices  against  the  race  of  blacks,  and  I 
pronounce  them  vulgar !  Some  even  pretend  that  negroes 
are  not  human  beings;  but  history  and  daily  observation 
prove  the  contrary.  Oh!  how  detestable  are  the  preju- 
dices of  avarice  and  inhumanity.  Our  vanity  teaches  us 
to  think  better  of  our  own  colour  than  of  theirs.  They 
entertain  the  [226]  same  opinion  of  white,  which  we  do  of 
black.  On  the  coast  of  Africa  the  Evil  Spirit,  which  we 
call  Devil,  is  there  imagined  under  the  hideous  semblance 
of  a  white  man. 

Many  too,  speak  against  the  disposition  of  Negroes. 
They  no  doubt  possess  strong  passions;  but  their  passions 
may  all  be  enlisted  on  the  side  of  virtue.  The  quickness 
and  strength  of  their  feelings,  connected  with  their  intel- 
ligence, prove  their  greatness.  It  is  evident  that  negroes 
are  capable  of  being  rendered  great  philosophers,  divines, 
physicians,  legislators  and  warriors.  They  are  likewise 
capable  of  being,  in  their  principles  and  conduct,  real  gen- 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  333 

tlemen ;  and  as  to  fidelity  and  affection,  they  are  second  to 
no  people  on  the  face  of  the  earth.  Some  will  sneer  at 
these  ideas;  but  I  rejoice  in  defending  this  despised  and 
oppressed  race  of  men;  and,  would  to  heaven  that  my 
power  was  equal  to  my  regard  for  them!  In  the  course 
of  the  last  war  there  was  as  much  courage  and  patriotism 
evinced  by  a  negro,  as  by  any  individual  in  the  nation. 
During  a  naval  engagement  he  was  dreadfully  mangled 
by  a  cannon  ball;  and  just  as  his  soul  was  departing,  he 
exclaimed,  "no  haul  a  colour  down!" 

The  slaves  are  accused  of  committing  crimes;  but  are 
not  white  men  sometimes  criminal  ?  and,  I  would  ask,  are 
they  not  as  frequently  so?  Besides,  what  can  be  ex- 
pected of  slaves  ?  Why  do  we  not  give  them  their  liberty, 
and  admit  them  to  the  privileges  of  citizenship  ?  We  are 
men  of  like  passions;  yet  does  God  grind  down  and  oppress 
us  ? —  No,  but  has  enabled  us  to  preserve  our  liberty,  and 
sends  his  Holy  Spirit  to  regenerate  and  redeem  us.  Oh ! 
what  a  requital  of  his  goodness  do  we  display  in  the  thral- 
dom of  our  brethren.  Among  slaves,  nature,  in  her  own 
defence  sometimes  lifts  the  arm  of  death.  Can  she  bear 
every  thing  ?  Oppressed,  and  scourged,  and  [227]  with- 
out refuge,  self  protection  is  her  only  law;  and  God,  under 
such  circumstances,  justifies  homicide.  The  brethren  of 
Moses  were  enslaved;  and  seeing  an  Egyptian  smite  a 
Hebrew,  he  slew  him.  Has  a  slave  a  right  to  his  liberty  ? 
Certainly.  Then  no  one  has  a  right  to  deprive  him  of  it; 
and  in  attempting  to  do  so,  the  assailant  must  abide  by 
the  consequences.  Will  the  laws  of  this  country  con- 
demn the  slave  to  die  in  this  case?  If  so  my  country 
sanctions  murder  as  well  as  robbery.  What  should  we 
think  of  a  Christian  system  which  should  warrant  slavery, 
or  even  be  silent  respecting  it  ?  Stand  forth  ye  ministers 
of  our  holy  religion,  ye  vicegerents  of  a  righteous  God, 


334  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

and  speak  the  truth  in  behalf  of  the  slave.  Why  should 
our  pulpits  be  silent  upon  this  great  subject  ?  Why  do 
not  our  Christian  preachers  constantly  pray  as  David  did, 
"break  thou  the  arm  of  the  oppressor."  Why  do  they 
not  inquire  with  the  voice  of  authority,  and  in  the  Al- 
mighty's name,  "what  mean  ye,  that  ye  beat  my  people 
to  pieces,  saith  the  Lord  God  of  Hosts. ' ' 

I  am  disposed  to  offer  a  few  ideas  upon  the  origin  of  the 
race  of  blacks.  Their  colour  is  generally  supposed  to 
arise  from  climate;  but  the  idea  is  not  well  supported. 
Some  too,  imagine  that  their  colour  is  a  peculiar  mark 
which  the  Creator  put  upon  them  for  some  special  pur- 
pose; but  these  suggestions  are  chimerical.  The  specu- 
lations upon  this  topic  have  ever  been  very  numerous:  for 
my  own  part,  however,  I  think  there  is  no  difficulty  in- 
volved in  the  subject.  Where  an  effect  cannot  be  satis- 
factorily accounted  for  but  upon  one  principle;  and  this 
principle  is  conclusive  in  point  of  analogy,  we  need  not 
look  any  further. 

Now,  certain  it  is  that  Nature,  in  all  her  works,  evinces 
a  great  fondness  for  variety,  both  in  relation  to  colour  and 
form.  Man,  as  to  his  physical  nature,  [228]  is  an  animal; 
and  black  and  white  in  men,  are  as  easily  accounted  for 
as  black  and  white  among  beasts  and  birds,  or  any  other 
part  of  animated  nature.  There  is  no  species  of  animal, 
among  which  a  greater  variety  of  form  and  of  simple 
colours  exist,  than  among  men.  Here  we  see  every  shade 
of  complexion,  from  jet  black  to  the  clearest  white;  here 
too,  we  find  every  variety  of  feature.  Why  should  there 
not  be  the  same  variety  among  men  as  among  mere  ani- 
mals ?  We  see  this  variety  in  every  particular,  and  yet  as 
to  black  we  doubt  the  universality  of  the  principle.  Why 
do  we  not  inquire  as  to  the  cause  of  the  colour  of  the 
black  horse?  Why  do  we  not  ask,  whether  his  remote 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  335 

ancestors  were  not  bora  in  the  Torrid  Zone?  Besides, 
the  variety  of  which  I  speak  exists  in  the  vegetable  world ; 
and  in  order  to  remove  the  principle  upon  which  the 
argument  is  predicated,  the  most  conspicuous  attribute  of 
nature  must  be  disproved. 

Some  learned  writers  have  supposed  the  negro  race  to 
be  the  descendants  of  Cain,  and  that  their  colour  is  the 
mark  which  the  Deity  set  upon  their  great  progenitor,  on 
account  of  the  murder  of  his  brother  Abel.  Others 
imagine  that  the  negroes  have  proceeded  from  the  loins 
of  Ham;  and  that  he  was  rendered  black  by  the  hard 
cursing  of  his  father  Noah.  As  to  Noah's  curse  produ- 
cing this  effect,  if  such  a  notion  deserves  any  thing  but 
ridicule,  it  may  be  observed,  that  the  descendants  of  Ham 
occupied  Africa;  and  that  here  the  inhabitants  are  not  all 
black.  In  that  part  of  Asia  too,  where  it  is  supposed  the 
descendants  of  Seth,  a  favourite  son,  reside,  the  people  are 
full  as  black  as  any  of  the  negroes  of  Africa. 

The  heat  of  the  climate  cannot  be  the  cause  of  black- 
ness in  negroes;  for  a  great  part  of  the  continent  of  Amer- 
ica lies  within  the  Torrid  Zone,  and  [229]  yet  there  were 
no  black  people  here  until  Europeans  transported  them 
thither  from  Africa. 

Climate,  education,  modes  of  living,  customs  and  man- 
ners, do,  no  doubt,  affect  the  form,  aspect,  and  features 
of  individuals;  but  all  these  causes  are  not  sufficient  to 
produce  a  total  change  in  complexion  or  any  other  par- 
ticular. 

About  the  middle  of  June  I  arrived  at  New-Orleans. 
The  general  aspect  of  the  city,  viewed  at  a  little  distance 
from  it,  is  much  in  its  favour.  It  appears  large,  ancient, 
and  populous.  I  entered  the  city  at  noon  day.  Its 
streets  were  crowded  with  people  of  every  description. 
Perhaps  no  place  in  the  world,  excepting  Vienna,  con- 


336  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

tains  a  greater  variety  of  the  human  race  than  New-Or- 
leans. Besides  foreigners  of  all  nations,  there  are  here  a 
various  population  peculiarly  its  own.  These  are  of  every 
shade  of  complexion.  Here  may  be  seen  in  the  same 
crowd  Creoles,  Quadroons,  mulattoes,  Samboes,  Mus- 
tizos,  Indians,  and  Negroes;  and  there  are  other  commix- 
tures which  are  not  yet  classified.  As  to  negroes,  I  may 
add  that  whilst  in  this  place  I  saw  one  who  was  perfectly 
white.  This  peculiarity,  however,  is  rarely  witnessed  in 
this  country. 

Dissipation  in  New-Orleans  is  unlimited.  Here  men 
may  be  vicious  without  incurring  the  ill  opinion  of  those 
around  them: — for  all  go  one  way.  Here  broad  indeed 
is  the  road  to  ruin;  and  an  insulated  spectator,  sees  the 
multitude  passing  down  the  stream  of  pleasure  to  the 
gulf  of  remorse.  Surrounded  by  the  facinations  of  wealth, 
the  blandishments  of  beauty,  and  the  bewitching  in- 
fluences of  music,  they  do  not  realize  that  they  are  losing 
the  dignity  of  their  nature,  and  preparing  for  themselves 
the  most  bitter  self-reproach: — they  do  not  realize  that  an 
eternity  cannot  undo  an  ignoble  deed. 

"Fair  laughs  the  mom,  and  soft  the  zephyr  blows; 
While  proudly  riding  o'er  the  azure  realm, 
In  gallant  trim  the  gilded  vessel  goes, — 
Youth  on  the  prow,  and  Pleasure  at  the  helm! 
Regardless  of  the  sweeping  whirlwind's  sway, 
Which,  hush'd  in  grim  repose,  expects  his  ev'ning  prey." 

The  gambling  houses  in  this  city  are  almost  innumer- 
able, and  at  any  hour,  either  by  night  or  day,  the  bustle 
of  these  demoralizing  establishments  may  be  heard.  Here 
too,  the  Sabbath  is  devoted  to  recreation.  On  this  day 
the  negroes  assemble,  and  amuse  themselves  and  specta- 
tors by  dancing.  Religion,  in  behalf  of  the  slave,  has 
thus  benevolently  wrested  one  day  in  seven  from  hard- 
hearted avarice. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  337 

I  am  happy  in  being  able  to  say,  that  New-Orleans  is 
much  less  corrupt,  in  many  particulars,  than  it  used  to  be. 
The  American  population  there  is  rapidly  increasing;  and 
New-England  customs,  manners  and  habits,  are  there 
gaining  ground.  This  population  will,  no  doubt,  be  con- 
taminated; but  it  is  sincerely  hoped  that  there  will  be  a 
balance  in  favour  of  morality.  The  police  of  this  place 
is  still  in  the  hands  of  the  French. 

The  city  of  New-Orleans  is  situated  on  the  east  bank 
of  the  Mississippi,  about  eighty-five  miles  from  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico.  The  city  stands  immediately  upon  the  bank, 
and  upon  a  curve  or  bend  in  the  river.  The  land  here,  like 
the  whole  country  below  Natches,  and  indeed  generally 
below  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  is  low  and  level.  The  water 
is  kept  from  flowing  into  the  city  by  a  Levee  or  embank- 
ment, which  was  raised  by  the  Spanish  government.  The 
Levee  extends  from  Fort  Plaquemine,  about  forty  miles 
below  the  city,  to  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  above  it. 
This  embankment  is  about  four  feet  high  and  fifteen  feet 
wide.  A  great  deal  [231]  has  been  said  respecting  this 
road ;  but  it  is  not  deserving  of  much  notice.  The  under- 
taking was  not  great,  and  its  execution  displays  no 
ingenuity  or  neatness.  All  the  market-people  bring  their 
produce  upon  the  Levee;  and  here  the  inhabitants  of 
the  place  take  their  evening  walk. 

The  city  extends,  on  the  river,  about  a  mile  and  a 
quarter;  and  its  breadth  is  about  a  half  mile.  The  streets 
cross  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  the  side  walks  of 
some  of  them  are  paved  with  flat  stones  or  bricks.  Most 
of  the  streets  are  narrow.  On  the  river  side  of  the  city 
the  buildings  are  large,  and  many  of  them  are  built  of 
brick  and  covered  with  slate  or  plaster;  but  those  on  the 
back  of  the  place  are  very  small,  and  consist  of  wood. 
The  former  are  compact,  and  the  latter  scattered.  From 


338  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

the  Levee  to  the  buildings  fronting  the  river  the  distance 
is  about  seven  rods.  At  the  upper  part  of  the  city,  near 
the  river,  is  the  Custom-House;  and  at  the  lower  part  of  it 
is  the  Fort  and  Cantonment.  Not  far  from  these  is  a  spa- 
cious establishment,  which  is  occupied  by  an  association  of 
Nuns.  The  Cathedral  stands  near  the  centre  of  the  town. 

The  streets  near  the  Levee  are  generally  crowded  with 
thousands  of  women,  who  are  employed  in  vending  fruits 
and  goods.  There  is  in  this  city  much  female  beauty: — 
fine  features,  symmetry  of  form,  and  elegance  of  man- 
ners; but  the  virtuous  man  often  perceives  in  these  the 
fatal  testimony  of  moral  aberration.  Here  the  fascina- 
tions of  accomplished  dissipation  move  in  the  guise  of 
delicacy,  and  captivate  the  youthful  heart;  but  the  mor- 
alist views  their  momentary  and  belittling  influence,  with 
the  indifference, —  not  of  pride,  but  of  reason,  religion,  and 
sentiment.  Youths  of  my  country,  to  conquer  ourselves 
is  victory  indeed! — to  foil  temptation  in  the  doubtful 
field,  is  imperishable  renown ! 

[232]  New-Orleans  is  situated  on  the  island  of  Orleans. 
This  island  is  formed  by  the  Mississippi,  the  Lakes  Pon- 
chartrain  and  Maurepas,  and  the  river  Ibberville.  The 
latter  river  is  an  outlet  of  the  Mississippi  fifteen  or  eigh- 
teen miles  below  Baton  Rouge.  Lake  Ponchartrain  is 
about  thirty  miles  long,  and  nearly  the  same  distance  in 
breadth.  Its  depth  is  ten  or  fifteen  feet.  Lake  Maurepas 
is  about  ten  miles  long,  and  seven  or  eight  broad. 

It  may  here  be  observed  that  the  Louisiana  purchase 
was  made  in  1803.  This  territory  is  of  immense  extent; 
but  its  boundaries  are  doubtful.  It  would  be  well  for 
the  government  to  satisfy  themselves  upon  the  subject, 
and  to  run  their  lines,  and  establish  their  forts  without 
delay.  Seasons  of  public  tranquillity  are  the  seasons  for 
such  business. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  339 

The  city  of  New-Orleans  is  a  place  of  immense  business. 
In  the  course  of  fifty  years  it  will  probably  be,  in  a  mer- 
cantile point  of  view,  second  to  none  in  the  world.  At 
this  place  inland  and  maritime  commerce  combine  their 
energies.  An  immense  tract  of  the  most  productive  coun- 
try in  the  world,  is  continually  sending  its  produce, 
through  a  thousand  channels,  to  this  great  mart.  Al- 
ready five  or  six  hundred  vessels,  some  of  which  are  very 
large,  may  occasionally  be  seen  lying  at  the  Levee;  and 
upon  this  embankment  are  vast  piles  of  produce  of  every 
description.  Foreign  vessels  frequently  arrive  here  with 
from  500,000  to  1,000,000  dollars  in  specie,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  purchasing  cargoes  of  sugar,  cotton,  and  tobacco. 
Perhaps  in  no  place  is  specie  more  plenty,  or  more  free 
in  its  circulation  than  at  New-Orleans.  The  banks  here 
sometimes  refuse  to  receive  it  as  a  deposit.  From  the 
future  imports  into  this  city,  and  the  shipping  employed 
here,  the  General  Government  will  derive  an  immense 
revenue.  The  country  above  is  more  and  [233]  more 
supplied  with  foreign  goods  from  New-Orleans,  by  steam 
boats  and  other  vessels,  instead  of  receiving  them,  as  for- 
merly, from  Baltimore  and  Philadelphia,  by  the  way  of 
Pittsburg;  and  from  Richmond  by  the  rivers  Cumberland 
and  Tennessee. 

Vast  quantities  of  provisions  of  every  kind,  proceed 
from  the  Ohio,  the  Mississippi,  and  their  tributaries,  for 
the  consumption  of  the  people  of  New-Orleans,  for  ship 
stores,  and  for  foreign  markets.  The  immense  value  and 
rapid  rise  of  real  estate  in  this  place,  proves  the  flourish- 
ing condition  of  its  trade.  A  small  lot  of  land  there  is  al- 
most a  fortune;  and  a  large  building  lets  for  3000  dollars 
per  year, —  an  interest  upon  50,000.  Within  twelve 
months,  real  estate  there  has  risen  from  fifty  to  seventy- 
five  per  cent. 


340  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

New-Orleans  is,  no  doubt,  an  unhealthy  place;  but  I 
believe  it  is  much  less  so  than  is  generally  supposed. 
Much  might  be  done  to  improve  it  in  this  respect.  When 
the  municipal  concerns  of  this  city  shall  be  directed  by 
Americans,  which  will  probably  be  very  soon,  the  place 
will  become  less  unheaHhy  and  less  dissipated  than  it  is. 
In  this  case,  people  who  now  go  thither  merely  for  the 
purposes  of  trade,  will  permanently  reside  there,  and  will, 
of  course,  be  more  interested  in  the  destinies  of  the  place. 
The  police  of  the  city  is,  at  present,  quite  inefficient. 
Murders  here  are  frequent,  and  sometimes  not  enquired 
into ;  and  the  streets  are  suffered  to  be  very  dirty.  It  may 
be  observed  too,  that  but  little  respect  is  paid  to  the  dead 
at  New-Orleans.  The  burying-ground  lies  in  the  heart 
of  the  city,  is  in  an  exposed  situation,  and  the  surface  of  it 
is  covered  with  human  bones.  People  here  generally  go 
armed,  particularly  the  Spaniards,  French,  and  Portu- 
guese. Owing  to  the  unhealthiness  of  this  place,  its  prin- 
cipal characters  spend  the  summer  months  at  [234]  the 
Eastward,  and  in  some  cases  at  the  Bay  of  St.  Louis, 
situated  about  fifty  miles  from  the  city.190  This  is  said 
to  be  a  healthy  situation.  The  American  population  at 
New-Orleans  are  hospitable. 

The  orange  groves,  and  the  Levee,  at  and  near  this 
place,  and  which  travellers  have  glowingly  described,  by 
no  means  equal  their  representations.  Of  the  latter  I 
have  already  spoken,  and  as  to  the  former  they  are  small 
and  unflourishing. 

The  market,  at  New-Orleans,  is  very  long  and  spacious. 
Near  this  place  are  a  great  many  poultry-boats,  which  are 
employed  in  bringing  poultry  from  the  plantations  in  the 

160  St.  Louis  Bay  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Borgne  on  Mississippi  Sound,  was 
explored  by  Iberville  in  1699  and  named  after  Louis  IX,  the  saintly  king  of 
France.  On  it  was  located  one  of  the  early  French  colonies. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  341 

vicinity.  The  beef  in  the  market  is  very  inferior.  Owing 
to  the  climate,  or  bad  management,  the  cattle,  although 
large  and  elegant,  are  poor.  All  the  wealth  of  New-Or- 
leans could  not  purchase  there  a  piece  of  any  kind  of  flesh 
equal  to  what  is  every  day  seen  in  the  New-England  mar- 
kets. Vegetables  are  plenty  at  New-Orleans,  but  provi- 
sions of  every  kind  are  here  very  high.  Turkies  are  from 
four  to  six  dollars  apiece,  fowls  one  dollar  each,  beef  about 
twenty  cents,  and  butter  seventy-five  cents  per  pound. 
The  best  boarding  here  is  eighty  dollars  per  month.  Some 
of  the  hotels  are  superb  establishments.  Money  is  here 
easily  obtained  and  expended;  its  circulation  is  free. 
Wages  are  here  very  high,  and  labourers  in  great  demand. 
Indolence  characterizes  a  portion  of  the  people.  There 
are  two  theatres  and  a  circus  at  New-Orleans.  The  prin- 
cipal season  for  amusement  is  the  winter.  In  the  summer, 
a  very  considerable  proportion  of  the  population  leave  the 
city,  and  during  this  period  but  little  business,  compara- 
tively, is  done. 

I  have  mentioned  the  Nunnery  at  New-Orleans.181  In 
entering  some  of  the  apartments  of  this  interesting  seclu- 
sion, I  was  much  less  disposed  to  censure  than  to  venerate 
the  motives  of  its  inmates.  Man  [235]  is  a  religious  being: 
and  he  often  realizes  that  this  world  is  not  his  home. 
This  is  particularly  the  case  in  seasons  of  affliction.  Here 
the  human  mind,  sensible  of  its  unworthiness,  and  of  its 
dependence  upon  God,  seeks  the  favour  of  that  Being,  who 
only  can  forgive  and  render  happy.  When  the  affections 
of  man  are  weaned  from  the  world,  he  sighs  for  the 
purity  and  peace  of  heaven.  Human  society  no  longer 
interests  him.  He  wishes  well  to  mankind;  but  prefers 
to  their  society,  the  seclusions  of  meditation.  Some- 

111  On  the  Ursuline  convent  at  New  Orleans,  see  Cuming's  Tow,  volume  iv 
of  our  series,  note  225. —  ED. 


342  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

times  this  is  the  immediate  effect  of  the  spirit  of  re- 
generation; and  sometimes  it  proceeds  from  the  loss  of 
some  earthly  friend,  upon  whom  the  heart  continually 
dwelt ;  and  in  whom  it  might  be  said  to  move  and  have  its 
being: — some  friend,  the  remembrance  of  whose  lovely 
life, —  whose  almost  superhuman  aspect,  manner,  and  con- 
verse, alienates  the  affections  from  earth,  and  points  them, 
with  a  pure  and  tranquil  spirit,  to  an  anticipated  reunion 
in  a  better  world. 

Under  such  circumstances  have  females,  of  the  most 
enlightened  minds,  and  purest  hearts,  received  the  veil. 

There  is,  probably,  in  New-Orleans  and  its  vicinity,  a 
population  of  about  40,000.  About  a  third  part  of  these 
may  be  presumed  to  be  slaves.  The  French  here  are 
more  numerous  than  any  other  distinct  class.  Among 
them  are  many  persons,  who  have  lately  emigrated  from 
France.  Some  of  these  persons  are  gentlemen  of  great 
talents  and  noble  principles.  It  seems  unnatural  that 
they  should  have  left  their  native  country  in  the  hour  of 
her  adversity;  but,  no  doubt,  their  object  is  to  preserve 
their  lives,  in  this  land  of  liberty,  for  the  service  of  France 
when  she  shall  again  be  true  to  herself.  Colonel  L.  who 
was  at  the  fatal  battle  of  Waterloo,  is  a  real  Frenchman. 
He  considers  Buonaparte  a  [236]  great  and  good  man;  but 
says,  that  in  several  instances  he  acted  imprudently.  The 
Colonel  almost  hates  his  country  for  abandoning  that 
great  General,  who  had  so  long  defended  France,  and  who 
had  acquired  for  her  unparalleled  fame.  France  was,  in- 
deed, great;  and  Frenchmen  have  had  much  cause  for 
pride.  All  Europe  combined  for  her  subjugation.  The 
coalition  of  a  world  was  necessary  to  subdue  a  single  na- 
tion, acting  under  the  auspices  of  the  mighty  genius  of 
her  Emperor.  This  man,  even  in  his  humiliation,  is  the 
terror  of  all  Europe;  and  this  terror  arises  from  their  sense 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  343 

of  his  superiority.  All  Europe  are  now  engaged  in  legis- 
lating upon  this  wonderful  character;  whole  fleets  are  em- 
ployed in  guarding  him;  and  vast  armies  are  stationed  on 
the  confines  of  France,  to  prevent  the  rise  of  that  spirit 
which  he  had  created  in  her  bosom.  Shame  to  England ! 
shame  to  her  Continental  allies !  Why  do  not  these  Powers 
who  boast  of  their  strength  and  their  magnanimity,  leave 
this  King  of  men  to  choose  his  own  residence  ?  He  over- 
threw Monarchs,  but  he  did  not  trample  upon  them, — 
he  generously  restored  them  their  crowns  and  their  lib- 
erty. If  England, —  if  the  powers  of  the  continent  wish 
to  destroy  Buonaparte,  why  do  they  not  issue,  at  once,  an 
order  for  his  execution?  Why  do  they  disgrace  them- 
selves, by  the  infliction  of  contemptible  privations  ?  Well 
may  this  great  man  say,  when  deprived  of  that  liberty 
which  is  essential  to  health,  ' '  if  these  proceedings  should 
be  fatal  to  me,  I  bequeath  my  death  to  the  reigning  house 
of  England." 

I  am  not  sensible  of  any  undue  partiality  for  France. 
I  wish,  in  this  world  of  error,  to  be  a  candid  spectator  of 
passing  events,  and,  in  my  humble  sphere,  to  approve  of 
what  is  great,  and  to  censure  what  is  mean.  Many  per- 
sons cannot  bear  the  name  of  France,  on  account  of  the 
horrors  of  her  Revolution;  [237]  but  they  should  reflect, 
that  these  excesses  were  the  natural  consequence  of  op- 
pression. The  Monarchy  of  France  was  corrupt  and 
tyrannical.  Her  religion  was  foul,  and  deceptive.  When 
the  light  of  liberty  shone  upon  the  recesses  of  her  pollu- 
tions, the  people  were  shocked;  and  in  a  paroxism  of  as- 
tonishment, and  indignation,  declared  that  the  Christian 
Religion  itself  was  a  mere  name.  Did  not  England  go  as 
far  as  this  ?  Previous  to  the  Restoration,  her  Parliament 
declared  the  Decalogue  to  be  without  authority. 

Opposite  the  City  of  New-Orleans  the  river  is  more 


344  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

than  a  mile  wide.  The  channel  is  very  deep,  and  the  cur- 
rent rapid.  Boats,  destined  for  the  city,  are  sometimes 
swept  down  the  stream  for  several  miles,  before  they  can 
make  a  landing.  The  inhabitants  of  the  place  procure 
all  then*  water  from  the  Mississippi;  but  it  is  generally 
filtered  before  using.  The  boatmen,  however,  drink  it  as 
it  is;  and  some  suppose  it,  in  this  state,  conducive  to  health. 
It  must  not,  however,  be  taken  from  the  eddies. 

The  numerous  stories,  which  have  so  often  been  circu- 
lated, and  believed,  respecting  the  cruel  modes  of  fighting, 
prevalent  among  the  boatmen  of  the  west,  are,  generally 
speaking,  untrue.  During  the  whole  of  my  tour,  I  did 
not  witness  one  engagement,  or  see  a  single  person,  who 
bore  those  marks  of  violence  which  proceed  from  the  in- 
human mode  of  fighting,  said  to  exist  hi  the  west,  partic- 
ularly in  Kentucky  and  Tennessee.  The  society  of  this 
part  of  the  world  is  becoming  less  savage,  and  more  re- 
fined. 

The  judicial  proceedings  at  New-Orleans  are  recorded 
both  in  the  French  and  English  languages;  and  the  juries 
there  consist  of  men  of  both  nations.  In  all  cases,  ex- 
cepting those  of  a  criminal  nature,  the  Code  Napoleon 
prevails;  but  in  criminal  cases,  [238]  the  Common  Law  is 
the  rule  of  action.  Here  genius  is  not  trammelled  by  the 
rules  of  special  pleading.  The  allegations  of  the  parties, 
if  intelligible,  have  to  encounter  no  quibbles. 

The  science  of  special  pleading  is,  no  doubt,  a  science 
purely  logical;  and  so  far  the  courts  of  New-Orleans  rec- 
ognize it;  but  in  the  New-England  states  many  rules,  in 
relation  to  this  subject,  which  have  no  foundation  in  rea- 
son, and  which  are  the  vestiges  of  ancient  sophistry,  are 
adhered  to,  by  some  of  our  lawyers,  with  all  the  pedantry 
of  ignorance,  and  the  pertinacity  of  dullness.  Many  a 
genius  has  left  the  bar  of  our  judicial  tribunals,  because 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  345 

he  would  not  consent  to  argue  upon  rules  which  had  no 
foundation  in  common  sense,  and  to  quibble  upon  points, 
upon  which  effrontery  and  nonsense  may  prevail  over 
modesty  and  reason. 

The  lawyers  in  New-Orleans  acquire  immense  fortunes 
by  their  profession ;  and  it  may  be  added,  that  physicians 
and  surgeons  are  equally  successful.  It  requires  almost 
a  fortune  there  to  fee  a  lawyer,  or  to  obtain  medical  ad- 
vice; and  real  estate  is  so  valuable,  that  actions  upon  land 
titles  often  involve  several  hundred  thousand  dollars. 

In  this  city,  a  building  is  about  being  erected  for  a  Pres- 
byterian society.  Over  this  congregation,  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Larned  is  to  be  ordained.  The  eloquence  of  this  gentle- 
man is  highly  spoken  of. 

There  is,  perhaps,  no  place  in  the  civilized  world,  where 
the  influence  of  the  gospel  is  more  needed  than  at  New- 
Orleans.  There  the  light  of  Revelation  exists;  but  the 
people  walk  in  moral  darkness.  The  thunder  of  divine 
displeasure  alone  can  arouse  them  from  their  deep 
slumber.  It  may,  indeed,  be  supposed,  that  they  are 
''dead  in  trespasses  and  sins." 

Here  I  may  observe,  that  the  success  of  the  gospel  [239] 
depends,  as  jar  as  it  respects  human  means,  upon  modes 
of  preaching;  and  these  modes  should  always  have  a  ref- 
erence to  the  education  and  habits  of  the  people.  Where 
there  is  little  or  no  sense  of  the  obligations  of  morality,  it 
is  truly  unwise  to  expatiate  upon  abstruse  doctrinal  points. 
It  is  very  doubtful  whether  discussions  upon  the  mysteri- 
ous parts  of  scripture  are  ever  useful;  and  it  is  certain  that 
such  discussions  are  often  productive  of  contention,  dis- 
couragement, and  unbelief.  Although  a  layman,  I  would 
respectfully  recommend  to  some  of  our  clergy,  to  doubt 
their  own  wisdom;  to  suspect  their  ability  to  understand 
those  secret  things  which  belong  unto  God;  and  to  take 


346  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

with  them  the  following  words  of  the  son  of  Sirach: — 
"Seek  not  out  the  things  which  are  too  hard  for  thee, 
neither  search  the  things  which  are  above  thy  strength; 
but  what  is  commanded,  think  thou  upon  with  reverence. ' ' 

The  love  of  money  in  New-Orleans  is  conspicuous;  and 
the  vast  sums,  which  may  there  be  accumulated,  render 
keen  the  spirit  of  avarice.  This  spirit  is  too  prevalent 
throughout  the  United  States,  and  much  fraud  is  the  con- 
sequence of  it.  It  is  truly  disgusting  to  hear  people  con- 
tinually inquiring  respecting  this  and  that  man's  property; 
as  though  property  was  the  only  subject  worthy  of  re- 
mark, and  the  only  test  of  merit. 

The  love  of  wealth  in  this  country  is  making  rapid  in- 
roads upon  the  love  of  principle;  and  nothing  can  retard 
its  progress  but  the  exclusive  patronage  of  virtue  and 
talents. 

These  two  last  terms  constitute  true  taste;  and  this 
should  be  the  only  distinction  in  society.  The  distinc- 
tion of  wealth  is  odious;  and  that  of  birth  is  nonsensical. 
Neither  is  learning  the  exclusive  test  of  merit.  High 
talents  may  exist  without  much  learning,  [240]  and  can 
easily  overthrow  the  tinsel  of  the  schools.  Integrity, 
noble  principles,  polished  sentiments,  and  a  becoming  de- 
portment, constitute  the  real  gentleman ;  and  such  a  man, 
whether  he  originated  in  a  palace,  or  in  a  straw-built  shedr 
is  an  ornament  to  society,  and  an  honour  to  any  com- 
pany. 

There  are,  no  doubt,  public  and  private  advantages  in 
wealth.  As  a  motive,  it  enlists  the  passions  in  behalf  of 
science,  industry,  and  commercial  enterprise;  but  no  man 
is  justified  in  desiring  a  great  estate,  excepting  for  the  pur- 
pose of  aiding  private  charity,  and  institutions  which 
have  in  view  the  welfare  of  mankind.  Gold  and  silver  are 
of  consequence  to  a  state,  both  as  a  circulating  medium, 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  347 

and  as  a  means  of  dividing  property,  and  distributing  it  to 
those,  whose  gains  are  small,  and  whose  pecuniary  in- 
dependence is  important  both  to  them  and  to  the  com- 
munity; but  those  who  regard  this  shining  dross  more 
than  justice  and  prudence  warrant,  ought  to  be  despised. 
Compared  with  the  vast  estates  frequently  accumulated 
for  selfish  purposes,  mankind  want  but  little.  Artificial 
views  incur  unnecessary  expenses,  and  fraud  is  frequently 
made  to  cater  for  their  discharge. 

It  may  be  supposed  that  I  ought,  ere  this  stage  in  my 
tour,  to  have  mentioned  some  particular,  relative  to  the 
prevailing  manners  and  customs  of  the  people  situated  in 
those  parts  of  the  country  through  which  I  passed.  But 
my  course  did  not  lead  me  through  many  settled  places, 
and  I  met  with  no  peculiarities,  in  relation  to  this  subject, 
worthy  of  remark.  Indeed,  the  Yankees  are  so  scattered 
over  the  whole  country,  and  their  influence  in  society  is 
generally  so  considerable,  that  their  habits  and  modes  of 
living  are,  in  a  greater  or  less  degree,  imitated  every  where. 
These  observations  apply  particularly  to  that  part  of  the 
country  west  of  the  Ohio.  At  [241]  New-Orleans,  the 
population  being  principally  French,  the  manners  and 
customs  of  the  place  are,  generally  speaking,  peculiar  to 
them. 

Upon  my  arrival  at  New-Orleans,  and  in  looking  back 
upon  my  course,  I  could  not  but  be  forcibly  impressed 
with  the  wonderful  wealth  and  physical  force  of  the 
United  States.  In  comparing  the  present  situation  of  the 
country  with  what  it  was  when  first  discovered  by  Euro- 
peans, the  mind  is  astonished;  and  in  dwelling  upon  its 
probable  increase,  in  the  course  of  one  hundred  years, 
numbers  fail,  and  calculation  becomes  alarmed.  Here 
too,  the  hand  of  Providence  is  visible  in  the  discovery  and 
settlement  of  the  country;  in  the  protection  of  the  infant 


348  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

colonies  of  our  forefathers,  and  in  the  great  events  of  our 
history  to  the  present  time.  With  reference  to  these  ideas* 
the  thoughts  of  the  Psalmist  interestingly  apply: — "Unto 
thee  will  I  give  the  land  of  Canaan,  the  lot  of  your  inheri- 
tance. ' '  And  again :  ' '  When  there  were  but  a  few  men 
in  number,  yea,  very  few,  and  strangers  in  it;  He  suffered 
no  man  to  do  them  wrong !  —  He  reproved  kings  for  their 
sakes." 

Any  comparison,  which  I  may  make  between  the  coun- 
try situated  on  the  Mississippi,  and  the  New-England 
States,  will,  perhaps,  be  partial.  That  I  prefer  the  latter, 
in  every  point  of  view,  will  be  readily  accounted  for.  It 
may  appear  strange,  however,  that  my  principal  objec- 
tion to  the  former,  is  the  productive  capacity  of  its  soil. 
Both  in  a  moral  and  political  point  of  view,  this  is  a  seri- 
ous evil.  Industry  is  indispensable  to  the  health  of  the 
mental  and  physical  nature  of  man;  and  also  to  the  pres- 
ervation of  his  virtue.  On  the  Mississippi,  plenty  may 
be  obtained  by  a  very  small  degree  of  labour.  An  addi- 
tional exertion  produces  wealth;  and  indolence,  luxury, 
and  dissipation  are,  in  this  [242]  part  of  the  United  States, 
its  general  consequences.  This  is  too,  in  a  measure,  the 
case  with  all  the  western  country.  There  are  many  other 
objections;  but  they  are  too  numerous  to  mention.  The 
country  on  the  Mississippi  is  not  a  grazing  country. 
The  hills  of  New-England  feed,  on  the  contrary,  the  finest 
cattle,  furnish  the  most  delightful  prospects,  and  produce 
the  hardiest  plants  of  freedom.  New-England  too,  is  a 
peculiarly  happy  country  with  respect  to  religion,  morals, 
education,  and  health.  Here  industry  gives  a  zest  to  the 
ordinary  enjoyments  of  life,  strengthens  the  mind  for  the 
acquisition  of  knowledge,  prepares  the  heart  for  the  de- 
fence of  principle,  and  nerves  the  physical  man  for  the 
maintenance  of  national  right. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  349 

I  might  now  consider  my  pedestrious  tour  as  finished; 
but  it  may  not  be  amiss  to  continue  my  narrative  to  the 
time  of  my  arrival  in  New-Hampshire.  As  this,  however, 
will  be  rather  an  unproductive  field,  I  must  introduce,  in 
my  course,  some  brief  reflections  upon  foreign  topics. 

About  the  first  of  July  I  sailed  from  New-Orleans  for 
Boston.  The  course  of  a  vessel  from  and  to  these  places 
is  circuitous,  and  nearly  as  long  as  that  of  a  voyage  across 
the  Atlantic.  The  distance  is  about  2,500  miles. 

Having  hauled  off  from  the  Levee  into  the  current,  we 
beat  down  the  river  with  a  light  breeze;  at  length  took  in 
our  top-gallant-sails,  moved  briskly  about  thirty  miles, 
and  moored  along  the  bank  for  the  night.  I  had  previ- 
ously been  below  the  city,  about  seven  leagues,  for  the 
purpose  of  visiting  General  Wilkinson.  In  the  General's 
library  I  met  with  many  rare  and  interesting  works.  Dur- 
ing this  excursion  I  viewed  the  celebrated  battle-ground, 
five  miles  below  New-Orleans.162  The  Americans  were 
fortified,  having  a  marsh  in  front,  the  river  on  [243]  the 
right,  an  impervious  wood  on  the  left,  and  the  resources 
of  the  city  in  the  rear: — an  admirable  position!  The 
enemy  displayed  the  most  desperate  courage  in  attacking 
the  Americans  thus  situated.  British  glory  never  shone 
brighter  than  upon  this  occasion;  and  British  troops  never 
experienced  a  greater  overthrow. 

Below  New-Orleans  snakes,  lizards,  and  alligators  are 
numerous;  and  the  bees  and  grasshoppers  are  very  large. 
Here  one  almost  supposes  himself  in  the  West-Indies. 
Cotton  does  not  flourish  well  so  low  down  as  General 
Wilkinson's  plantation;  but  sugar-cane  is  here  remark- 
ably productive.  The  craw-fish,  which  naturalists  say  is 

m  For  a  brief  biography  of  General  Wilkinson,  see  Coming's  Tour,  note 
160.  The  site  of  the  battle  of  New  Orleans  (January  8,  1815)  is  five  miles 
below  the  city.—  ED. 


350  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

a  fresh  water  lobster,  here  passes  under  the  banks  of  the 
Mississippi  to  a  considerable  distance,  and  comes  up 
through  the  earth  into  the  fields.  This  circumstance 
proves  that  the  land  in  this  part  of  the  country  is  afloat, 
and  also  that  this  species  of  animated  nature  is  amphibi- 
ous. It  is  exceedingly  interesting  to  notice  the  economy 
of  nature  in  her  transitions  from  the  vegetable  to  the  ani- 
mal world ;  and  in  some  measure,  from  the  mere  animal  to 
human  existence.  With  respect  to  the  former  we  may 
inquire  whether  the  oyster  and  sponge  are  animals  or 
vegetables?  The  oyster  is  rooted  to  the  earth  like  a 
plant,  and  yet  it  feeds  upon  animals.  The  dexterity 
which  it  displays  in  closing  its  shells  upon  those  worms, 
which  are  so  unfortunate  as  to  creep  into  them,  is  worthy 
of  remark.  There  are  two  amphibious  plants  as  well  as 
amphibious  animals.  The  flag  is  considered  an  aquatic; 
but  it  flourishes  best  between  land  and  water.  An 
amphibious  fish,  such  as  the  craw-fish  appears  to  be,  is 
a  new  link  in  the  chain  of  existences. 

About  eighteen  miles  below  New-Orleans  is  the  English 
Turn.163  This  is  a  bend  in  the  river,  which  [244]  is  thus 
called,  because  the  English  ships,  in  their  first  attempt 
upon  the  city,  were  obliged  to  return.  Twenty-five  miles 
below  the  Turn  is  Fort  Plaquemine.164  This  fort  is  on 
the  left  side  of  the  river,  and  makes  a  very  elegant  appear- 
ance. Not  far  from  this  place,  the  country  immediately 
becomes  very  low;  trees  soon  disappear;  and  the  river 

188  Bienville,  colonial  governor  of  Louisiana,  returning  from  an  exploring 
trip  (1699),  met  an  English  vessel  of  sixteen  guns,  about  eighteen  miles, 
below  the  site  of  New  Orleans.  The  captain  stated  he  was  looking  for  a  loca- 
tion for  an  English  colony,  and  Bienville  assured  him  that  the  Mississippi  was 
already  occupied  by  the  French.  Much  to  the  tatter's  surprise,  the  vessel 
sailed  away.  From  this  episode  the  English  Bend  received  its  name,  not,  as 
Evans  implies,  from  the  attacking  fleet  of  1815. —  ED. 

164  Plaquemine  Turn  is  thirty  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi.  It 
was  fortified  by  the  French  in  1746. —  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  351 

flows  over  both  its  banks,  watering  immense  marshes, 
covered  with  flags  and  high  grass. 

Two  days  after  leaving  New-Orleans  for  the  eastward, 
we  passed  the  above  mentioned  fort,  and  towards  even- 
ing, anchored  near  the  shore.  Here  the  prospect  from 
the  top  gallant-masts  of  the  vessel  was  gloomy.  In  the 
course  of  the  evening,  a  black  and  ragged  little  schooner 
floated  by  us;  and  she  proved  to  be  the  vessel,  from  the 
fore-yard  of  which  the  Indian  Chief  Hemattlemico,  and 
the  Indian  Prophet  Francis  were  hung,  by  order  of  Gen- 
eral Jackson.165— 

"Oh!    what  doth  that  vessel  of  darkness  bear! 
The  silent  calm  of  the  grave  is  there: — 

Save  now, and  again,  a  death  knell  rung; 

And  the  flap  of  her  sails,  with  night  fog  hung." 

The  late  conduct  of  General  Jackson  has  excited  much 
interest,  both  in  Europe  and  America.  Some  advocate 
his  proceedings,  and  like  himself,  seem  determined  to 
brave  the  tempest  which  is  ready  to  overwhelm  him. 
That  is  a  dear  and  glorious  cause,  which  involves  moral 
strength  and  physical  weakness;  and  I  should  rejoice  in 
enlisting  under  the  banners  of  a  virtuous  man,  when 
unjustly  assailed  by  popular  prejudice,  and  popular  in- 
dignation. But  General  Jackson  has  violated  the  prin- 
ciples of  humanity,  and  tarnished  the  glory  of  the  nation. 
Whatever  may  be  the  services  of  our  public  men  they 
must  be  taught  that  they  are  the  servants  of  the  [245] 
people,  and  at  all  times  officially  accountable  to  them. 
No  one  is  disposed  to  deny  that  General  Jackson  has  done 

1M  When,  during  the  Seminole  War,  Jackson  took  possession  of  St.  Marks, 
the  Indian  prophet  Francis  or  Hellis  Hajo,  and  the  chief  Hemollemico,  were 
lured  on  board  an  American  vessel  (April  6,  1818)  and  hung  by  Jackson's 
orders.  These  Indians  had  led  the  attack,  the  previous  November,  upon  a 
boat  under  command  of  Lieutenant  Scott,  which  was  ascending  the  Appalachi- 
cola  River.  Having  been  forced  to  surrender,  all  survivors  were  tortured  to 
death.  Jackson's  act  was  in  retaliation  for  this  outrage. —  ED- 


352  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

much  for  the  United  States;  but  this  is  only  one  side  of  the 
subject:  Julius  Cesar  was  a  celebrated  general,  and 
achieved  great  victories  for  Rome:  but  Julius  Cesar 
became  a  tyrant. 

I  do  not  pretend  to  know  what  were  the  motives  of 
General  Jackson  in  putting  to  death  the  above  mentioned 
Indians,  who,  it  appears,  had  been  decoyed  into  the  cus- 
tody of  his  officers,  and  were  prisoners  of  war;  but  we  have 
reason  to  believe  that  they  were  bad  motives.  Conscious 
of  his  high  military  reputation,  the  native  ferocity  of  his 
disposition,  cloaking  itself  under  the  garb  of  energy,  burst 
upon  these  poor,  ignorant  savages,  who,  being  prisoners 
of  war,  were  perfectly  harmless.  And  why  was  this  ?  be- 
cause they  refused  to  answer  a  question  which  he  put  for 
the  purpose  of  entrapping  them. —  The  very  essence  of 
tyranny! 

Neither  General  Jackson,  nor  the  government  had  any 
more  right  to  take  the  lives  of  these  Indians,  than  the 
British,  even  setting  aside  the  idea  of  rebellion,  would  have 
had  to  execute  General  Washington,  had  he,  during  the 
Revolutionary  war,  been  taken  prisoner.  The  Indians, 
engaged  in  the  Seminole  war,  were  at  issue  with  the 
United  States.  The  parties  were  equally  independent, — 
their  rights  were  equal.  The  law  of  nature  is  the  original 
source  of  all  national  right,  and  Indian  tribes  are  in  a  state 
of  nature. 

General  Jackson's  conduct  upon  this  occasion  is  a  dis- 
grace to  the  country.  The  act  was  as  unmanly  as  it 
was  inhuman.  It  may  be  said  by  ignorance,  affectation, 
and  prejudice,  that  Indians  sometimes  destroy  our  men 
when  taken  prisoners.  What !  shall  we  abandon  the  pre- 
cepts of  religion,  the  principles  of  humanity,  and  the  polish 
of  civilization,  to  [246]  learn  manners  and  customs  in  the 
ferocious  schools  of  savage  life  ?  The  displeasure  of  the 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  353 

American  people  alone  can  remove  from  themselves  the 
disgrace,  with  which  such  conduct  on  the  part  of  a  public 
servant  naturally  clothes  them. 

As  to  the  course  which  General  Jackson  took,  relative 
to  the  execution  of  Arbuthnot  and  Ambrister,  it  was  en- 
tirely inconsistent  with  that  dispassionate  investigation 
which  ought  ever  to  characterize  the  American  Govern- 
ment.168 Admitting,  for  the  sake  of  argument,  that  this 
course  is  sanctioned  by  the  law  of  nations,  is  this  law 
our  only  guide  ?  And  is  this  law  perfect  ?  —  It  is  the 
work  of  man, —  the  work  of  those  civilians,  whose  dust 
has  long  since  been  scattered  by  the  winds!  It  is,  too, 
the  common  law  of  independent  communities.  But  what 
are  they?  Precisely  what  their  courts  are  made  of:  — 
tyranny,  intrigue,  and  dissipation.  Oh !  there  is  a  higher 
rule  of  action  than  the  law  of  nations.  "Our  conduct 
should  be  regulated  by  those  great  and  pure  principles, 
which  will  stand  the  test  of  reason  and  conscience,  both 
on  earth  and  in  heaven. 

Why  is  General  Jackson  so  fond  of  blood  ?  Why  so 
disposed  to  crush  every  forsaken  individual,  whom  the 
fortune  of  war  places  in  his  hands  ?  Is  this  moral  energy  ? 
—  or  is  it  a  barbarous  animal  impulse  ?  With  the  mod- 
esty of  a  true  soldier,  General  Jackson  should  have  trans- 
ferred to  the  Government  his  prisoners  and  his  trophies. 
Time  might  have  thrown  some  light  upon  the  subject  of 

1W  During  Jackson's  expedition  against  the  Seminoles,  two  Indian  traders 
were  also  captured  —  Alexander  Arbuthnot  and  Robert  C.  Ambrister.  Both 
were  put  to  death  after  the  form  of  a  trial,  on  the  charge  of  being  guilty  of  incit- 
ing the  Seminole  Indians  to  war  against  the  United  States.  The  latter  was 
shot  and  the  former  hung  from  the  yardarm  of  his  vessel,  April  29,  1818,  at 
St.  Marks,  Florida.  The  execution  raised  a  storm;  Henry  Clay,  on  the  floor 
of  the  House,  the  following  year,  during  the  famous  twelve-day  debate  on 
Jackson's  Seminole  War  conduct,  declared  that  if  Jackson  were  voted  the  public 
thanks;  it  would  be  a  triumph  of  insubordination  of  military  over  civil  authori- 
ties. The  long  feud  between  Jackson  and  Clay  began  with  that  speech. —  ED. 


354  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

the  persons  executed;  and  they  might,  at  some  future 
period,  have  had  a  fairer  trial.  There  is  reason  to  believe, 
that  both  General  Jackson  and  the  Court  Martial  were 
prejudiced  against  the  prisoners.  As  these  persons  were 
supposed  to  have  been  the  instigators  of  the  war  —  a  war 
which  was,  at  first,  so  lamely  [247]  maintained  on  our  part 
—  a  war  which  resulted  in  the  death  of  some  of  our  peo- 
ple, it  was  natural  for  General  Jackson,  and  the  persons 
composing  the  Court  Martial,  to  entertain  hostile  feelings 
towards  the  accused.  And  shall  prejudice  and  hostility 
be  the  triors  in  a  case  of  life  and  death  ?  This  transac- 
tion too,  is  a  disgrace  to  the  country;  and  although,  as  Mr. 
Secretary  Adams  says,  General  Jackson  will  not,  in  re- 
lation to  it,  incur  the  censure  of  the  Government,  those  of 
the  people  who  wish  to  see  their  country  exemplary  in 
every  thing,  will  endeavour,  by  condemning  the  act,  to 
shield  that  country  from  reproach. 

Mr.  Adams'  letter  to  our  Minister  at  the  Court  of  Spain, 
relative  to  this  subject,  does  the  nation  injustice;  and  it  is 
surprising  that  it  should  be  so  much  eulogized.167  I  am 
disposed  to  entertain  a  high  opinion  of  the  talents  and  pa- 
triotism of  Mr.  Adams;  but  his  communication  is  undigni- 
fied. It  evinces  spirit,  but  it  is  the  ephemeral  spirit  of 
political  paragraphists.  Why  does  this  great  man  conde- 
scend to  flourish  about  "M'Gregor's  mock-patriots,  and 
Nicholls'  negroes  ?"  To  say  nothing  respecting  the  osten- 
tatious threats,  which  the  communication  contains,  its 
pinks  and  posies  but  illy  become  the  silvered  brow  of  a 
diplomatic  veteran.  To  threaten  is  the  peculiar  privilege 

187  Adams  made  his  strongest  defense  of  Jackson  in  his  letter  to  Don  Jose" 
Pizarro,  Spanish  secretary  of  state.  He  reviewed  the  whole  situation,  and 
accused  the  Spanish  and  Indian  traders  in  Florida  of  stirring  up  the  Indians, 
referring  to  Arbuthnot  as  "that  British  Indian  trader  from  beyond  the  sea, 
the  firebrand  by  whose  touch  the  Negro-Indian  war  against  our  borders  has 
been  rekindled."—  ED. 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  355 

of  little  minds.  To  warn  with  gravity,  and  to  act  with 
decision,  become  the  United  States  in  her  negociations 
with  Spain. 

Admitting,  as  I  have  said,  that  the  proceeding,  relative 
to  Arbuthnot  and  Ambrister,  is  warranted  by  the  law  of 
nations,  yet  as  this  law,  as  far  as  it  respects  the  present 
question,  is  unjust  and  unreasonable;  and  as  it  also  is 
grounded  upon  principles  which,  relative  to  expatriation, 
we  have  ever  contested,  both  duty  and  policy  dictate  our 
decided  opposition  to  it.  It  is  a  rule  which  originated  in 
the  [248]  despotic  courts  of  Europe;  and  one  which  Free- 
dom detests.  May  not  an  individual  expatriate  himself  ? 
And  if  so,  may  he  not  become  a  citizen  or  subject  in  a 
foreign  country  ?  He  may  become  a  member  of  a  savage 
as  well  as  of  a  civilized  community.  And  by  acquiring 
the  right  of  citizenship  under  a  foreign  government,  an 
individual  may  attain  to  the  distinction  of  a  leader.  By 
being  a  citizen  he  becomes  interested  in  the  destinies  of 
the  state,  and  is  bound  to  defend  its  rights. 

If  Arbuthnot  and  Ambrister  expatriated  themselves, 
and  united  their  fortunes  with  those  of  the  Indians,  they 
were,  upon  every  view  of  the  subject,  mere  prisoners  of 
war;  and  as  such  should  have  been  treated.  By  taking 
it  for  granted  that  they  had  not  expatriated  themselves, 
we  act  upon  the  ground  that  there  can  be  no  such  prin- 
ciple as  expatriation,  and  thereby  do  injustice  to  the 
cause  of  liberty,  and  expose  our  own  citizens  to  terrible 
inflictions  from  those  tyrannical  governments,  who  ad- 
vocate this  side  of  the  question. 

As  to  General  Jackson  entering  the  territory  of  Spain, 
and  taking  possession  of  Spanish  posts,  it  was  illegal,  be- 
cause unnecessary;  and  highly  improper,  because  not 
authorized  by  the  government.  The  Indians  were  dis- 
persed; and  an  immediate  renewal  of  the  war  on  their 


356  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

part  was  not  apprehended.  So  far  this  proceeding  was 
without  a  legitimate  object.  And  if  the  Spanish  govern- 
ment were  to  blame  in  relation  to  this  war,  the  United 
States,  and  not  General  Jackson,  who  was  a  mere  servant 
of  the  people,  acting  under  limited  orders,  were  to  decide 
as  to  the  course  to  be  pursued. 

The  day  after  leaving  Fort  Plaquemine  we  arrived  at 
the  Balize.1'8  There  are  here  the  remains  of  an  old  Span- 
ish fort,  and  three  or  four  miserable  dwelling-houses. 
The  latter  are  occupied  by  pilots.  The  [249]  place  pre- 
sents a  most  wretched  aspect,  being  scarcely  above  the 
water,  and  covered  with  flags  and  reptiles.  About  three 
miles  below  this  situation  are  the  principal  passes  into  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico.  The  water  of  the  Mississippi,  when 
the  river  is  high,  rushes  with  such  force  through  these 
passes,  that  fresh  water  may  be  obtained  several  miles 
from  the  land.  Old  passes  are  frequently  filled,  and  new 
ones  made,  by  the  rapid  descent  of  the  water  of  the  river 
during  the  seasons  of  its  rise.  The  coast,  viewed  from 
the  Balize,  presents,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  a  broken 
and  desolate  aspect,  reminding  one  of  the  destruction  of 
the  Antedeluvian  world. 

After  waiting  one  or  two  days  for  a  wind,  we  received 
a  pilot,  sailed  through  the  north-east  pass,  and  with  a 
light  breeze  nearly  ahead,  moved  slowly  in  a  south-south- 
east course.  We  left  quite  a  fleet  of  vessels  at  the  pilot- 
ground,  and  there  were,  at  this  time,  several  large  ships 
beating  into  the  Balize.  The  north-east  pass  is  not  more 
than  eight  rods  wide;  and  on  both  sides  of  it  are  low  banks 
of  mud.  There  are  several  other  passes,  which  are  taken 

**  The  Balise  was  in  early  times  the  best  and  deepest  pass  into  the  Missis- 
sippi River.  Now  known  as  Southwest  Pass,  it  is  not  used,  there  being  hardly 
six  feet  of  water  on  the  bar.  It  was  fortified  by  Bienville  about  1720. —  ED. 


i8:8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  357 

by  the  pilots  according  to  the  wind  and  the  draught  of 
the  vessel. 

For  many  days  we  experienced  light  winds  on  our  lar- 
board bow;  our  progress,  of  course,  was  inconsiderable. 
For  many  days  too,  previous  to  our  making  the  islands  of 
Tortugas,  and  even  after  reaching  the  island  of  Cuba, 
our  progress  was  completely  retarded  by  calms  and  light 
head  winds.  Being  in  the  calm  latitudes  at  this  season 
of  the  year  is  very  unpleasant.  An  almost  vertical  sun 
pours  his  rays  upon  the  deck,  and  produces  an  insuffer- 
able heat. 

During  this  state  of  things,  I  may  look  back,  for  a  mo- 
ment, to  New-Orleans.  No  place  in  the  world  furnishes 
a  greater  field  for  speculation  upon  physiognomy,  and  for 
reflection  upon  national  characteristics,  [250]  than  this 
city.  The  former  is  a  science  too  much  neglected.  A 
knowledge  of  human  nature  is  of  consequence  to  all; 
and  particularly  so  to  the  philosopher,  and  man  of  busi- 
ness. The  human  countenance  is  the  index  of  the  human 
heart.  But  little  dependance,  however,  can  be  placed 
upon  those  rules,  which  relate  altogether  to  the  lines  of  the 
human  face.  In  relation  to  this  subject  men  of  penetra- 
tion, who  have  acquired  a  habit  of  forming  an  opinion 
upon  every  stranger  who  presents  himself,  experiences, 
upon  these  occasions,  a  kind  of  inspiration,  which  sel- 
dom errs.  This  effect  is  not  surprising,  because  the 
human  countenance  always  expresses,  both  morally  and 
physically,  the  ruling  passions  of  the  heart;  and  practice, 
in  all  sciences  and  arts,  produces  wonderful  proficiency. 

With  respect  to  national  characteristics,  I  fear  that  I 
cannot  be  impartial  without  giving  offence.  But  the 
truth  is  as  much  against  myself  as  any  other  person.  I 
speak  only  of  national  characteristics;  of  course  the  opin- 


358  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

ion  is  general,  and  there  may  be  individual  exceptions. 
Besides,  as  to  individuals,  transplanting  sometimes 
improves  the  original  stock.  This,  I  apprehend,  is  par- 
ticularly the  case  with  the  English  in  America.  My  par- 
tiality, perhaps,  begins  to  display  itself.  How  natural  is 
it  for  one  to  think  well  of  his  own  country !  Yet  truth 
should  be  more  dear  to  a  man  than  his  native  land.  The 
Americans  are  a  mixed  people ;  but  the  institutions  of  the 
country  direct  their  affections  to  one  common  centre. 
They  are,  therefore,  one  people;  and  their  principles 
and  feelings  comport  with  our  noble  systems  of  polity. 
All  nations  have  their  faults;  but  I  think  the  Americans 
possess  the  greatest  virtues  and  the  fewest  imperfections. 
I  need  not  occupy  much  ground  upon  this  subject.  The 
most  prominent  nations  are  the  best  tests  of  national  char- 
acteristics. [251]  Small  communities  are  almost  innu- 
merable; and  they,  generally,  partake,  more  or  less,  of 
the  dispositions  of  long  established,  and  mighty  sovereign- 
ties. I  confine  my  views  to  the  English,  Irish,  French, 
and  American  nations.  The  Irish  are  intelligent,  hos- 
pitable, and  courageous;  but  they  are  credulous,  resentful, 
and  violent  in  all  their  affections: — great  virtues,  and 
great  vices  characterize  them.  The  English  are  sensible, 
generous,  and  brave;  but  they  are  supercilious,  overbear- 
ing, and  vain  glorious.  The  French  are  perspicacious, 
enthusiastic,  and  intrepid;  but  they  are  fickle,  vain,  and,  in 
prosperity,  impertinent.  The  Americans  seem  to  be  a 
people  distinct  from  every  other. —  They  possess  all  the 
good  qualities  of  the  English,  and  they  are  real  gentlemen 
in  the  bargain. 

I  now  return  again  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Here  we 
frequently  experienced  heavy  squalls,  accompanied  by 
severe  thunder  and  lightning.  In  one  instance  several  of 
our  men  were  stricken  by  the  latter.  The  squalls  gener- 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  359 

ally  commenced  at  day  break.  Such  a  scene  as  they  pro- 
duce is  truly  sublime.  Here  man  feels,  that  however 
small  may  be  his  merit,  his  nature  is  noble.  In  the  midst 
of  an  apparently  shoreless  ocean,  his  little  bark,  tossed 
by  the  winds  and  waves,  he  is  sensible  of  the  grandeur 
of  his  temerity,  and  prides  himself  in  the  efficacy  of  his 
skill.  It  is  not  surprising  that  sailors  are  generous.  A 
little  mind  could  not  exist  upon  the  deep.  Its  mighty 
influences  will  either  enlarge  or  petrify  the  heart: —  raise 
the  noble  soul,  or  drive  the  narrow  spirit  into  the  cock- 
boats, and  creeks  of  the  interior.  The  rough  manners 
too,  of  the  children  of  the  sea  are  perfectly  natural: — 
they  have  long  conversed  with  winds  and  waves. 

Whilst  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  we  caught  a  great  many 
dolphins;  and  sharks  frequently  came  around  [252]  our 
vessel.  Several  times,  about  a  dozen  of  these  voracious 
creatures  presented  themselves.  Our  mate  caught  one  of 
them,  and  it  measured  ten  feet  in  length.  The  pilot- 
fish,  which  attends  the  shark,  is  only  a  few  inches  long; 
and  like  the  jackall,  accompanying  the  lion,  seems  to 
cater  for  prey,  and  to  partake  of  the  spoil.  The  sucker- 
fish,  frequently  found  on  the  shark,  is  worthy  of  notice. 
It  is  very  small,  and  its  colour  is  black.  Its  gills  are  on 
the  top  of  the  head,  instead  of  being  in  the  usual  place; 
and  the  sucker  itself  is  under  the  head,  and  has  the  appear- 
ance of  the  bars  of  a  gridiron.  Its  capacity  to  adhere  to 
any  thing,  by  suction,  is  great.  Nature  seems  so  fond  of 
variety,  and  her  modes  of  existence  appear  to  be  so  infinite, 
that  there  is  much  reason  to  deny  the  existence  of  a  vac- 
uum. The  flying-fish  is  remarkable,  for  its  uniting  the 
aspect  of  the  fish  with  the  principal  capacity  of  the  bird. 
The  dolphin  is  the  implacable  enemy  of  this  fish;  nature 
has,  therefore,  given  it  the  power  to  fly.  Whilst  at  sea, 
I  witnessed  an  interesting  chase  between  these  two  species 


360  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

of  fish.  When  the  dolphin,  the  speed  of  which  is  very 
great,  overtakes  the  flying-fish,  the  latter  rises  out  of  the 
water,  and  descends  at  a  considerable  distance;  but  the 
dolphin,  swimming  on  the  surface,  often  sees  its  prey 
alight,  and  speedily  overtakes  it.  The  dolphin  furnishes 
an  excellent  model  for  ship  building. 

Sixteen  days  after  leaving  the  Balize  we  discovered  land 
from  the  top-gallant-mast-head;  and  it  proved  to  be  the 
principal  island  of  Tortugas.  After  running  up  within 
three  leagues  of  it,  we  bore  away,  and  made  the  island  of 
Cuba.  This  is  the  largest  of  the  West-India  islands.  Its 
length  is  about  seven  hundred  miles;  and  the  face  of  the 
country  is  mountainous.  In  coasting  along  this  island 
we  came  within  a  league  of  the  Moro  Castle,  which,  to- 
gether [253]  with  several  Forts,  protect  the  city  of  Ha- 
vana. On  all  the  works  are  mounted  about  one  thousand 
cannon.  The  Havana  is  a  great  commercial  place.  It 
is  the  usual  station  of  the  principal  maratime  force  of 
Spanish  America,  and  the  place  of  rendezvous  for  the 
vessels  from  the  Colonies,  on  their  homeward  voyage.  It 
is  too,  a  place  of  immense  wealth,  and  its  population 
amounts,  probably,  to  80,000. 

Whilst  coasting  along  the  Island  of  Cuba,  and  particu- 
larly during  the  evening  of  our  arrival  off  the  Havana, 
we  experienced  high  winds.  In  one  instance  the  aspect 
of  every  thing  around  us  was  black,  windy,  and  wild ;  and 
we  found  it  necessary  to  lower  our  topsails,  and  take  two 
reefs  in  our  mainsail.  At  this  time  there  were  several 
ships  in  sight ;  and  each  laboured,  in  darkness,  her  boister- 
ous course. 

The  next  day  a  land  bird,  of  the  heron  species,  having 
been  driven  from  the  coast  by  the  late  gale,  sought  an 
asylum  on  board  of  our  vessel.  For  hours,  she  wandered, 
like  the  Antedeluvian  dove,  and  found  no  rest  for  her  feet. 


1818]  Evans's  Pedestrious  Tour  361 

It  was  interestingly  painful  to  see  the  exhausted  bird  wing- 
ing her  tedious  way  along  the  surface  of  the  deep ;  and  it 
spake  of  the  hopeless  spirit, —  a  wanderer  over  the  fields 
of  its  own  desolation. 

After  passing  Port  Matansas,  we  doubled  Cape  Florida, 
entered  the  Gulf  of  this  name,  and  came  in  sight  of  the 
Keys,  and  of  the  principal  island  of  Bahama.  Here  the 
Gulf  stream  quickened  our  progress  about  three  knots 
per  hour.  The  waters  of  this  stream,  influenced  by  the 
trade  winds  and  other  causes,  flow  through  the  Caribbean 
islands,  and  enter  the  Mexican  Gulf  between  Cuba  and 
the  Promontory  of  Yucatan.  Compressed  by  the  sur- 
rounding coasts,  it  pursues  its  course  between  East  Flor- 
ida and  the  Bahama  Islands,  and  runs  along  the  coast  of 
North  America  to  the  Banks  of  Newfoundland.  From 
thence,  it  passes  through  the  Azores  [254]  to  the  south,  and 
gradually  mingles  its  waters  with  those  of  the  ocean. 
Some  suppose,  that  this  impetus  is  preserved  until  the 
water  strikes  that  part  of  the  Equator  from  whence  it 
commenced  its  course.  It  is  probable  that  the  trade 
winds  operate,  at  first,  with  great  violence;  because, 
owing  to  the  centrifugal  force  of  the  water,  occasioned  by 
the  diurnal  motion  of  the  earth  around  its  axis,  the  sea  is 
elevated  at  the  Equator,  much  more  than  at  the  poles. 

The  nearest  distance  of  the  Gulf  Stream  from  the 
United  States  is  about  seventy-five  miles;  and  its  breadth 
is  about  forty  miles.  Such  is  the  rapidity  of  this  stream, 
that  it  retains  a  considerable  degree  of  its  tropical  heat, 
even  after  reaching  its  most  easterly  point  of  destination. 
The  colour  of  the  water  of  the  Gulf  is  dark,  and  its  depth 
very  great.  This  latter  circumstance  is,  probably,  oc- 
casioned by  the  force  of  the  current  at  the  bottom,  and 
by  its  curvilineal  form  on  the  surface.  It  may  be  pre- 
sumed, that  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Gulf  the  progress  of  ves- 


362  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  8 

sels,  bound  to  the  north  is  retarded.  Some  portion  of  the 
Gulf  water  will,  by  being  propelled  faster  than  that  which 
precedes  it,  fly  from  the  centre,  and  rebound  so  as  to  pro- 
duce a  counter  current. 

When  opposite  Cape  Canaveral,  in  latitude  49,  we  ex- 
perienced a  high  wind  on  our  larboard  quarter.  Here  we 
lowered  our  topsail,  and  took  two  reefs  in  our  fore  and 
main-sail.  At  this  time  there  was  a  large  English  ship 
under  our  starboard  bow.  The  next  day  the  weather 
again  became  variable,  and  we  experienced  another 
squall. 

As  nothing  worthy  of  remark  occurred  for  a  day  or  two 
from  this  period,  I  again  suppose  myself  in  New-Orleans, 
for  the  purpose  of  noticing  some  of  the  languages  spoken 
there. 

The  French  is  the  principal  language  spoken  in  this 
city;  and  it  is  of  consequence  for  an  American  to  become 
acquainted  with  it,  not  only  because  it  [255]  introduces 
him  to  many  valuable  French  authors,  whose  genius  is 
peculiar  and  interesting,  but  because  it  is  the  language 
most  generally  spoken  throughout  Europe. 

The  Spanish  language  is  also  much  spoken  in  New- 
Orleans.  This  language  resembles  the  Latin;  but  is 
inferior  to  it.  The  Emperor  Charles  the  fifth,  however, 
entertained  a  different  opinion.  He  observed,  that  he 
would  speak  to  his  horse  in  German;  converse  in  French; 
make  love  in  Italian ;  and  pray  in  Spanish.  His  partiality 
was  very  natural.  He  thought  the  latter  most  precise 
and  comprehensive.  The  Portuguese  language  also  is 
often  heard  in  New-Orleans;  and  it  is  very  much  like  the 
Spanish. 

The  Greek  language,  although  so  long  dead,  is,  no 
doubt,  the  best  of  the  known  languages  of  the  world. 
The  Latin  is  nearly  as  good ;  and  the  English  is  probably 


i8i8]  Evans's  Pedestrians  Tour  363 

not  inferior  to  any  of  the  others.  But  all  languages, 
abstractedly  considered,  are  poor: — poor  as  to  the  pre- 
cision of  thought,  the  expression  of  sentiment,  and  the 
harmony  of  diction. 

The  usual  manner  of  acquiring  a  knowledge  of  foreign 
languages,  is  both  unnatural  and  tedious.  Foreign  lan- 
guages should  be  acquired  precisely  as  we  learn  our 
native  tongue.  In  becoming  acquainted  with  our  own 
language,  we  acquire  a  knowledge  of  language  in  the 
abstract;  and  this  knowledge  applies  to  all  foreign  lan- 
guages. There  must,  for  example,  be  in  every  language 
a  name  attached  to  a  thing,  and  also  a  mode  of 
conveying  an  idea  of  the  qualities  of  that  thing.  The  par- 
ticular meaning  of  a  word,  the  manner  of  its  pronuncia- 
tion, the  combinations  of  the  several  necessary  parts  of 
speech,  and  other  peculiarities  of  language,  depend  upon 
compact ;  —  upon  the  common  consent  of  each  distinct 
people.  Hence  the  great  diversity  of  languages. 

[256]  To  become  what  is  generally  understood  by  the 
phrase  a  linguist,  it  is  necessary  to  possess  only  a  common 
understanding,  accompanied  by  a  good  memory  and  by 
application;  but  to  become  a  real  philological  scholar 
requires  genius. 

I  now  return  to  the  vessel,  and  find  her  in  the  latitude 
of  Cape  Fear.  Here  we  experienced  a  very  heavy  squall, 
took  in  several  of  our  sails,  lowered  our  main  peak,  and 
scud.  The  scene  was  highly  interesting.  At  this  time  a 
little  black  schooner  from  Bassatere  hurried  by  us,  like 
the  messenger  of  death,  and  our  captain  hailed  her, 
through  night.  The  sea  laboured  in  wrath,  and  the 
moon,  partially  covered  by  a  cloud,  looked  at  the  storm 
askance. 

The  next  day  the  weather  was  calm,  and  for  several 
succeeding  evenings  delightful.  During  these,  there  were 


364  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.8 

many  vessels  in  sight,  and  we  spoke  the  brig  Com- 
merce. 

From  Cape  Hatteras  to  the  latitude  of  40,  we  experi- 
enced very  favourable  winds;  and  during  most  of  the  time 
progressed  at  the  rate  of  ten  knots  per  hour.  I  now  con- 
sidered my  course  nearly  finished;  and  it  was  natural  for 
me  to  reflect  upon  the  voyage  of  human  life.  The  ocean 
is,  in  many  respects,  a  true  emblem  of  man's  probationary 
state. —  Its  rolling  waves  resemble  successive  genera- 
tions; its  storms  and  calms  remind  him  of  human  vicissi- 
tudes; the  rocks  of  its  coasts  speak  of  the  stability  of 
virtue;  and  its  havens  direct  the  thoughts  to  the  security 
and  peace  of  a  better  world. 

After  a  passage  of  thirty  days,  I  arrived  at  Boston,  im- 
mediately proceeded  to  New-Hampshire,  and  there  found 
my  friends  in  the  enjoyment  of  that  protection,  which 
results  from  the  wisdom  of  our  laws,  when  aided  by  the 
approbation  of  a  virtuous  community. 

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